grumpyvette

it NEEDS to read 4.5-5 psi MAX and you NEED to set the float levels per the carb manufacturers instructions, having the pressure at 6.5 psi will in many cases cause the needle & seat valve to constantly leak excess fuel, into the carb while the engine runs

without a fuel pressure gauge and an adjustable return style fuel pressure regulator with a return line installed your basically restricted to guessing, and chances are very good youll have major problems, you need the engine timing set correctly and you need to learn how to tune carbs and correctly read spark plugs step one is getting the fuel pressure rock steady at 5 psi, then get the carbs floats and jets set correctly, so you get plugs that look like this good too lean too rich http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=635 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1015

a really well designed and properly manufactured 4 valve single or double overhead cam head could easily boost the hp potential of the chevy v8 engines a great deal. http://www.billzilla.org/2v4v.htm http://www.gofastnews.com/board/technical-articles/281-polyquad-new-four-valve-power-concept.html http://www.araoengineering.com/Chevy/chevybb.htm bbc 2: 1.84 In. valves BB Chevy Intake Ports BB 32v. 2: 1.840 IN. valves Pontiac Pro Stock 2.38 In. valve 0.1 94.4 0.1 70.8 0.2 206.5 0.2 147.5 0.3 312.7 0.3 230.1 0.4 375.24 0.4 277.3 0.5 448.4 0.5 342.2 0.6 472 0.6 395.3 0.7 494.42 0.7 436.6 0.8 494.42 0.8 448.4 2: 1.6 Ex. valves BB Chevy Exhaust Ports BB 32v. 2: !.6 EX. valves Pontiac Pro Stock ! o Stock 1.9 Ex. valve 0.1 88.5 0.1 59 0.2 182.9 0.2 118 0.3 259.6 0.3 182.9 0.4 318.6 0.4 241.9 0.5 381.14 0.5 300.9 0.6 424.8 0.6 330.4 0.7 430.7 0.7 342.2 0.8 430.7 0.8 344.56 SBC http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhead_camshaft http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Motor/4valve_cylinder_head.html http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?p=2263412 http://books.google.com/books?id=mm8oM7_OuDEC&pg=PA7&lpg=PA7&dq=david+vizards+4+valve+head+design&source=bl&ots=nno2iRy8DI&sig=cHm0DtrqK8kPuoMtlkUYoDZKKFc&hl=en&ei=jJYrS8bmD4uRtgffl-mICQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=&f=false

buy the march 2010 issue of CAR CRAFT MAGAZINE, on approximately pg 56 theres a coupon for a 12 ton hydraulic press from HF for $80 that normally sells for $129 on sale and $139 not on sale http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33497&Submit=Go http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=80&p=5607&hilit=u+joints#p5607 the money saved on a single u-joint swap on a corvette for example will pay for the press the local machine shop wanted $20 EACH just to press out and re-install the U-joints, with ME supplying the u-joints or $40 each if they supplied the u-joints, keep in mind theres 6 u-joints in a corvette, two on the drive shaft and two on EACH half shaft, and if ones bad thru normal wear and mileage then the others have significant mileage on them and should be replaced at the same time

watch THESE (found on youtube) http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447

OS34509T: Thin seal OS34510T: Thick seal BOTH LEFT HAND DIPSTICK looks like you need the #OS34509T: Thin seal, but that only comes in left hand so you might be forced to use Right-hand dipstick 375-1818 http://www.jegs.com/p/Fel-Pro/Fel-Pro-Oil-Pan-Gaskets/746664/10002/-1

TKO-600 G.M. TKO 500 FORD http://www.americanpowertrain.com/popwindow2.html http://www.americanpowertrain.com/tremec-transmissions.htm If I had the cash ID jump on a couple of there tko 600 extremes for my corvettes... being retired and low on cash sucks in some ways

then theres a good chance the trans was already, lets say "not in ideal condition " and the nitrous was "THE STRAW THAT BROKE THE CAMELS BACK" as the saying goes generally a 350-383 sbc with a decent shot of nitrous will prove to be more than most older well used transmissions can handle long term, for the following reason, its an excellent way to find the weak link in your drive train.... but with your transmission that should not have been the case.

I run a serious shot of nitrous on my 383 roller engine and its destroyed u-joints and a few built 700r4 transmissions,but you can aid the longevity a good deal by not using slicks as spinning street tires acts like a (TORQUE FUSE)preventing drive line failures provided you add the shot of nitrous rater gradually and only at or above about 50mph and 4000rpm, in the top couple of gears, as it tends to soften the impact forces on the drive line

your current set up results and if your tachs reading 9000rpm its probably set to read a six cylinder engine, and your really running at about 6600rpm ******************************* Final Gear Ratio : 3.73 Tire Size : 225-50-14 Max Power RPM : 6000 Limit RPM : 6500 ******************************* ********************* Gear Ratio Compound ********************* 1 2.520 9.400 2 1.520 5.670 3 1.000 3.730 *************************************** Gear MPH/1000 MPH @6000 MPH @6500 *************************************** 1 7.24 43 47 2 12.00 72 78 3 18.24 109 119 ********************************* MPH RPM (in Gears) ********************************* 1 2 3 ********************************* 5 691 417 274 10 1382 833 548 15 2072 1250 822 20 2763 1667 1096 25 3454 2083 1371 30 4145 2500 1645 35 4835 2917 1919 40 5526 3333 2193 45 6217 3750 2467 50 4167 2741 55 4583 3015 60 5000 3289 65 5417 3564 70 5833 3838 75 6250 4112 80 4386 85 4660 90 4934 95 5208 100 5482 105 5757 110 6031 115 6305 120 6579 ********************************* Gear Change RPM drop (change @6000) RPM drop (change @6500) ************************************************************* 1->2 -2381 (To 3619) -2579 (To 3921) 2->3 -2053 (To 3947) -2224 (To 4276) ************************************************************* in an ideal world you swap to a WELL BUILT 700R4 with full manual controls, and get results that change to those below ******************************* Final Gear Ratio : 3.73 Tire Size : 225-50-14 Max Power RPM : 6000 Limit RPM : 6500 ******************************* ********************* Gear Ratio Compound ********************* 1 3.060 11.414 2 1.630 6.080 3 1.000 3.730 4 0.700 2.611 *************************************** Gear MPH/1000 MPH @6000 MPH @6500 *************************************** 1 5.96 36 39 2 11.19 67 73 3 18.24 109 119 4 26.06 156 169 ******************************************** MPH RPM (in Gears) ******************************************** 1 2 3 4 ******************************************** 5 839 447 274 192 10 1678 894 548 384 15 2516 1340 822 576 20 3355 1787 1096 768 25 4194 2234 1371 959 30 5033 2681 1645 1151 35 5872 3128 1919 1343 40 3575 2193 1535 45 4021 2467 1727 50 4468 2741 1919 55 4915 3015 2111 60 5362 3289 2303 65 5809 3564 2494 70 6255 3838 2686 75 4112 2878 80 4386 3070 85 4660 3262 90 4934 3454 95 5208 3646 100 5482 3838 105 5757 4030 110 6031 4221 115 6305 4413 120 6579 4605 125 4797 130 4989 135 5181 140 5373 145 5565 150 5757 155 5948 160 6140 165 6332 170 6524 ******************************************** Gear Change RPM drop (change @6000) RPM drop (change @6500) ************************************************************* 1->2 -2804 (To 3196) -3038 (To 3462) 2->3 -2319 (To 3681) -2512 (To 3988) 3->4 -1800 (To 4200) -1950 (To 4550) ************************************************************* read thru these and the sub links http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2042&p=5443&hilit=+tire#p5443 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=555

It would sure help to know your tire diam. and rear gear ratio,and the rpms your running thru the lights and launching at the line at. and any 383 that sees a true 9000rpm is doomed to a short life expectancy, I'm sure, most guys reading that 9000rpm assume your either b.s,ing or your tachs defective, as theres no way an auto trans without full manual control shifts at 9000rpm without being damaged, and even then its on borrowed time

read these http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1040&p=1943#p1943 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=322 on a 302 designed to run at 4500rpm-7800rpm,with a cam like your going to be using to maximize the peak hp, youll want a larger head port than most people will suggest, because your trying to make 450-500 plus hp,and because , you can basically forget about maximizing low rpm torque, use the calculators, but a head like an AFR or brodix 195cc-200cc, or larger vortec heads will be the minimum required,if you truelly want to maximize the hp without getting insane prices like the 18 degree heads, or 2.2 heads, yes I know that the COST keeps increasing and you can use the standard vortec or ported fuelie heads,yes you can get good results, but the better heads do have advantages, its always a compromise, and you have to make choices example http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_29 http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1?parentProductId=760699 as you can see in this chart most of the stock heads don,t flow as well as the AFR 195cc heads and there ARE better flowing heads you might want to read this also http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_gm_bow_tie_vortec_small_block_engine/index.html

can you post a clear picture, theres been several welders by that discription, and in most cases they were all good welders but knowing exactly what your refering to will help btw Im using a miller TIG from the 1980s and it runs just fine

ID usually suggest a shaft rocker system be installed on a valve train that was expected to exceed 7000rpm but to keep costs semi reasonable,a flat tappet solid lift engine cam like this, for your sbc thats designed to run up in the 7000rpm plus range remember if the engines cammed and the intakes designed to operate in that 4000rpm-7600 plus rpm band the cars transmission and rear gear should keep the engine in that power band most of the time, so youll need to calculate the correct gear ratio http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1982&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=111411&partType=camshaft http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=122&action=partSpec&partNumber=99846-16 spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner Part Number 96877 Loads Closed 126 LBS @ 1.850 or 1 27/32 Open 328 LBS @ 1.340 use 1.5 RATIO rockers,like these erson 800-16 specs>> 1.5 3/8 $271.21 http://www.pbmperformance.com/store.php?catId=24 to reduce the effective ramp acceleration rate on the valve train http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4013/?image=large and a stud girdle on the rocker studs, seems to be indicated and this intake so you won,t restrict flow rates http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/ decent low cost cast valve covers to clear the stud girdle http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31511802S/

ok just a bit of info, if your looking for what we did years ago, when we were limited to ported fuelie and turbo heads when we used to build 302 z28 engines in the past for street use we tried to build 11:1 cpr motors for the street, (we also built alot of .030 over size 327 engines)and the most effective cam we found after testing dozens back in those days were these two, in the camaros and a few vega engine swaps for a manual transmission and a 4.11-4.56:1 rear gear this was frequently used with good results, but we also ran edelbrock SY1 or cross ram dual quad intakes were the crane solid lifter flat tappet cams 114681 and the similar 110921, it was markedly more effective than either of the two off road z28 cams #3927140 or #3965724 in those days no one serious ran hydraulic cams, you would be laughed off the track, solid flat tappet lifters were your only real choice if you expected to buzz 7000rpm plus a few years later we found that those same two cams gave excellent results in a 10.5;1 cpr 383 with a 3.73:1-4.11:1 rear gear and were even better once the aftermarket supplied the dart and brownfield heads, later http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 the 114681 had better street manors but it gave up a tiny bit of power but keep in mind sunoco 260 high octane gas was 39 cents a gallon and available almost everyplace, if you knew where the sunoco stations were.

the LSA has an effect on clearance issues and a roller cam generally holds the valves open longer and opens them faster so it will require verifying the clearances during assembly, even with similar lift on the valves(don,t forget to check both the connecting rod to cam clearance, and piston to valve clearance)

IVE BUILT OVER 100 plus SBC ENGINES FOR THE MUSCLE CAR CROWD AND A FEW CIRCLE TRACK GUYS OVER THE YEARS,if your goal is the least expensive engine that produces good hp the 350 or possibly a 383 is a very viable starting point as a 302 will cost more to build in most cases, yes you can build a nice responsive 302 sbc, and Im sorry you think Im trying more to dissuade him than give useful advice, Im really only using experience to suggest a route that in the long run will be less expensive,.... if you do this stuff long enough...you see trends.. you find that if you build a small displacement combo, the guys always come back, after consistently seeing the tail lights of their competition, asking what they can do, and the answer is always the same, you basically can throw a ton of money at any project or increase the displacement, because its simple physics youll make about 1.2-1.3 hp and ft lbs of torque per cubic inch of displacement, using basically stock style components 302=377 hp 377=471 hp

most are in the 155cc-163cc range, and flow at less than 220 cfm in stock condition, untouched vortecs are superior to un touched fuelie heads, the question comes up frequently as to which, vortec or fuelie heads are best both are not top choices by todays standards it depends mostly on the condition of the heads,(remember fuelies are on average over 40 plus years old)and on both WHICH fuelie heads they are, and the valve sizes,if they are not 2.02/1.6(if your willing to do minor port, bowl and combustion chamber mods like un-shrouding valves) Id suggest going vortec. and if your going to have the vortec compatible parts like valve covers, rockers, intake, etc. but in almost every case the VORTEC HEADS will produce slightly better power, unless you do those mods to the fuelie heads typical reworked fuelie http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm vortec http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm keep in mind the average fuelie head has a smaller 155cc-163cc port than the typical vortec at about 170cc, and the higher port angle on the vortec heads flows better http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html#GM%20LT4

Okso you want a high rpm screamer, thinking about building,a 302 like the old Z28 engines? well technology has advanced and theres better current options if your really interested heres a mid priced effective combo Ok time to get back to reality! if your serious about building a high rpm screaming sbc I can,t think of anything Ive built or seen built that sounds better or pulls harder than a PROPERLY BUILT 377 , thats a 400 block with a 350 crank, it will spin at 7000rpm quite happily with a decent solid lifter valve train and the extra cubes more than compensates for the slight rpm advantage of the smaller 302. a properly assembled 377 will easily exceed 500 flywheel hp and have noticeably more torque than a similarly built 302, and before you ask it should be rather obvious that the engine built like that requires a proper quench and some bowl & chamber work and un-shrouded valves and its very unlikey to run on high test without some octane booster youll want a manual transmission and a 4.11-4.56 rear gear heres a combo thats KNOWN to work carb http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-4781C/ intake http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/ heads http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRO-1021001/ block http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=31161211&dds=1 cam http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00351&x=49&y=8 pistons http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/icon/icon.php?action=details&P_id=332 rods http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000716/ crank http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-435010/ long tube 1 3/4" tube headers that fit your application a decent 7-8 qt baffled oil pan, that fits your application http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11929

fOR A STREET CAR ENGINE THATS EXPECTED TO LAST FOR THOUSANDS OF MILES AND GO A LONG WAY BETWEEN TUNE-UPS,Ive always found that keeping THE AIR AS COOL AS i CAN GET IT the coolant temp at 190f-200f, AND THE OIL AT 200f-220f WAS A VERY USEFUL RANGE FOR PREDICTABLE POWER AND EASE OF TUNING

its really nice to see the detailed photos as the project progresses, btw don,t get discourage by the rusty sheet steel, rather look at it as a chance to improve your welding skills

read thru this http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=348

looks like great start for a project

Im using a fairly large TRANS fluid COOLER , and I can,t imagine a 1/2" line being a problem if its correctly plumbed into the system,naturally youll want check valves so it won,t drain and have large volumes of compressed air vs oil at start-up and Id point out that there are thermostatically controlled valves that limit the flow thru the cooler too maintain a minimum oil or trans fluid temperature and up till recently I had a dual oil/trans fluid cooler installed and youll want to have the OIL cooler set up so all the oil does not route thru the cooler all the time, but only when its over a set temperature.oil coolers are not as simple as a radiator, if correctly installed but they are a huge advantage on transmission and engine durability in some cases If I had a quality oil/trans fluid cooler with 1/2" lines I would install it without a second thought! a large capacity baffled oil pan hanging under a car used at higher speeds,will effectively cool oil a good deal more effectively than many people would suspect http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176

http://www.gofastnews.com/board/technical-articles/281-polyquad-new-four-valve-power-concept.html