grumpyvette

whats the compression read? have you installed a cam recently?(is there a remote chance its not degreed in correctly? whats the fuel pressure read?, is should be a fairly steady 40-43 psi have you adjusted the valves? have you verified the IAC and TPS are correctly adjusted? any vacuum leaks? having sparks a good thing , but you need to have it at the correct time,have you verified with a timing light that its sparking near tdc on the cylinder http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=371 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=63 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1836&p=4797&hilit=+voltage#p4797 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596

always glad to help! BTW anyone who has any useful safety tips, PLEASE POST THEM, as we ALL need to think about those factors while working. and YES IM AMAZED at the skills some of the members have shown and stand AWED at a few of the project some have built, you gentlemen on this site should feel proud as its people like you,that are willing to swap drive trains and modify cars significantly from their original configurations, that advance the hobby's skills far more than the guys that simply replace store bought components on cars that those parts were built to fit on.

what cam are you thinking of using? whats the static compression ratio? what rear gear ratio? what transmission?(the t5 listed earlier)?? your list includes a 144 supercharger, but blower cams generally have more exhaust duration than intake duration and have a 112-114 LSA?

CONGRATS!! , Like I told you the smaller wire, that limits heat and shield gas, that cools and removes oxygen would be an improvement, RUNNING the welder like a MIG vs use of flux core is usually a big improvement, most guys are reluctant to get involved due to the increased cost until they try it that way and see for themselves the difference in the quality of the weld results

1. I have a 78z and i am wondering do you need to replace the stock fuel lines when going to a CARBED V-8? i have looked all over and cant find the answer. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211&p=247#p247 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1030 AN4 or 5/16 id line will support up to about 420hp, AN6 or 3/8 ID fuel line will support about 550-600hp if its correctly set up, youll want to jump to AN8 or 1/2" id line if your in the 550-800hp power zone 2. will the factory electric fuel pump work or would it be better to go to a mechanical pump? the factory efi fuel pump won,t generally work, as its producing too much pressure for a carb but if the fuel lines are of sufficient size and you use the correct series of two fuel pressure regulators, it can be rigged to function, but the best results will be thru the use of a pump designed to produce about 7-8 psi and about 130-160gph and a return style fuel pressure regulator that maintains about 5 psi at the carb. READ THE LINKED INFO AND SUB LINKS

http://ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html you might find this of interest

those plumbers torch packs are really handy, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65818 and can be used for many things but they don,t compare to the versatility of the true welding torches, (but then they are far less expensive)and come with tanks which the pro style torch combos don,t http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=MD-510T what you buy depends on your application of course, I used one of those plumbers packs in the shop for several years then it eventually dawned on me that I was spending far to much time running after tank refills and that in certain applications I was in need of far more torch than I had, so I upgraded and it was a big improvement, (but also expensive, at almost $780 for everything)

its amazing the guy lived with the roll cage collapsing like that, and having the cage supports punch thru the floor shows the rest of the welds in the cage as well as the base plated were not worth a crap, think about it, even with defective base plates the vertical supports are x braced and cross braced and welded to the door cages, front and rear cage supports, etc., all of which had to fail for the roof to pancake

you can very easily reach your 400-450hp (flywheel) goals and its rather silly to swap engines IF you already own the 350 sbs, simply because you'll be adding the cost of the new ls series engine to your total expenses, and with either engine choice youll still need speed parts that cost a couple thousand minimum, and sbc parts tend to be cheaper and easier to find. as always its the selection of those components that will make or break the results sop do your research read thru these http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519 http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0910_dyno_testing_the_tpi_chevy_small_block_engine/index.html

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1200 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202 the size injector you have should support about 450 max hp,if you can maintain a stead 40-44 psi of fuel pressure, (most injectors only reach rated flow at 43.5 psi)the 440 mopar should easily reach that hp level if its correctly tuned,without knowing your fuel pressure or rpm range its rather difficult to guess but reading the spark plugs, after a hard pass and shutting the engine off should give you a good indication, you are almost certainly running an injector that's borderline or too small if you want to maintain the best f/a ratio personally ID have selected a 45-48 lb injector for that application, and IM sure your aware that CAM DURATION could be increased to about the 245-250 range with that compression ratio and youll gain significant hp, but naturally the cars drive train needs to match the cam change, if you do so.

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1701 when you get rapid wear on a distributor gear is almost always the result of mis-matched materials in the cam and distributor gears or lack of adequate lubrication if you have a gear go bad in under 1000-1500 miles its probably both. Id sure call the cam manufacturer and verify the correct cam gear material is being used on the distributor gear too match the cam your using,a distributor or cam gear that's correctly lubricated and made of the correct material should easily last 60-80kk or more, like a stock gear normally will on a stock cam, and don,t fall for the crap about it being the result if a high volume oil pumps extra load on the gears, that's not the cause if it wore out that fast, you've got other issues. obviously step one will be to change oil and filter at a minimum, (personally Id disassemble and clean out the engine, oil passages and replace the bearings but hey that's just me)you may get by with an oil and filter change, but the fact that you'll probable see crud indicating rapid cam gear /distributor gear wear on the dipstick would indicate to me that fine metallic craps getting pumped to the bearings,rings, lifters,rockers etc.

Im always glad to help, and its great to know you were able to diagnose and cure the problem, CONGRATS

http://www.pexsupply.com/HydroPEX-CLAMPTOOL-PEX-Ratchet-Clamp-Tool-6852000-p would this help

plasti-gauge is an excellent cross check tool, easy to use and accurate, if used correctly, and I would not be a bit concerned if thats all you had to check bearing clearances, I use a fairly expensive set of mics, and snap gauges but I always cross check with plasti-gauge, and you ll be surprised at how accurate its really is http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1026&p=1900#p1900

LEGAL, depends mostly on how YOU file the papers, during the registration process and the components you use during the rebuild before its installed, marine engines have some changes made but are basically the same block,crank,heads as a typical car engine of the same year/displacement. in most cases the cams not designed to operate well near idle, for smooth torque in a car. or pass emissions testing many marine engines that have been run in SALT water, use the salt water for coolant and as a result have major rust in the coolant passages and corrosion problems, a percentage are REVERSE ROTATION and need major changes during a rebuild to even be run in a car.marine engines tend to get replaced because they rust rapidly from the inside out as they get wet internally with plain water then left wet for weeks at a time

that fuel line looks like you took the time to do the bends correctly, and was well thought thru,CONGRATS! BTW did you tig weld AN fittings to the ends to make connecting the flex lines an easy leak free proposition

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=729&p=1263&hilit=+rusty#p1263 read the thread linked above, and each of its sub links BEFORE doing anything else short version, go to the local hardware store and ask for a reverse twist drill about 2/3rds the diameter of the bolt,and a matched EASY OUT BIT, use a punch to indent the center of the bolt thats broke off so the drill tip won,t wander,as you drill, be sure the drill is used concentric to the bolt center line,use it or a standard twist drill to drill completely thru the busted section of thread bolt left in the head, soak it in a solvent penetrating oil and use an EASY-OUT bit with a T-handle to spin it out http://www.toolprice.com/product/8304D/10_Pc_Left_Hand_Drill_Bit_Cobalt_Screw_Extractor_Neiko_USA.html

http://www.millerwelds.com/swf/flv/flashvid.html?swf=welding_al_foil.swf&w=330&h=250&v=8 I thought you might get a grin out of this video, welding aluminum foil

obviously when your talking about routing fuel lines, keeping them out of the passenger compartment , away from heat and shielded from potential impact damage as much as possible should be your prime concerns, use of rubber grommets,at reasonably close spacing to maintain support or clamps with rubber friction coatings are preferred. the frequently over looked factor is the fittings and connections, they should be as few as possible, and carefully selected,as internal size and flow characteristics on many fittings will significantly restrict flow, and the in the tank sump pick-up and fuel line connections to the fuel pump and fuel filter and fuel pressure regulators will need to be taken into account, and a fuel cell will usually be the preferred route on a true performance application. on cars with frames its not uncommon to run fuel lines either along the inside lower surface or thru the frame rails, and place the fuel pump in an accessible location between the frame rail and tank, then run the fuel line forward and have it come up near the passenger side front frame rail, near the front of the engine, flex lines are normally limited to a short section near the carbs fuel manifold.If headers or electrical connections run too close the lines frequently get routed from the inside lower frame rail surface to the upper inside top surface of the forward frame rails or up along the firewall, then forward near the engines intake manifold, SFI rated flywheels/clutches and LAKEWOOD explosion proof bell housings are a very good idea, as is having a CO2 fire extinguisher and a fuel pump shut off valve http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211&p=1552#p1552

I really wish you were local so I could let you play with a thinner wire , gas shield MIG and see the difference, its not that flux core is bad, its just that true mig is SOOOO MUCH BETTER and BTW MIG is not my favorite welder, I grab the ARC or TIG or GAS welders far more often

mine, IS THE FULL SIZE ABOUT 5FT TALL BOTTLE, THAT cost $230, ONE TIME AND A FILL IS $34 or YOU CAN GIVE A $150 DEPOSIT AND PAY $15 A MONTH, PLUS $30 A FILL, AND GET YOUR DEPOSIT BACK ON BOTTLE RETURN the small bottles run out to fast and you get to refill them far to frequently , if your welding much, not much gets you pissed off like starting a project and finding you need a new tank of gas 1/3rd of the way thru and then another before your finished

when I suggest anyone think thru a welder purchase and avoid the cheaper non-name brand welders its due to experience, look Im not rich, and Ive been on a strict budget most of my adult life, both my kids make far more than I EVER did per hour already and their both still in college. the reason I suggest saving up and buying the more expensive welders, is that the more expensive welder have far more adjust-ability, and in most cases have far more dependable wire feeds, consistent amps Ive beat my head on the wall, trying to get decent welds using my friends cheap welders , and some I bought in the past,enough to know the difference) theres not much that makes you realize the difference like use of two similar rated welders , and finding out that as an example,use of a miller or Lincoln, welder makes your welds look good, but your attempts with a harbor freight welder look like crap and your basically using the same skills, and that its not your lack of skill but the equipment thats the difference, now IM not saying cheap welders won,t produce decent welds, because if your application fall within the range of their preset (hi/low),or (A,B,C,D,E)range in wire speed,and amps you may be able to produce acceptable welds, but your chances increase dramatically when you control all the factors,individually with a rotary dial in the weld process http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/power-settings.htm http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wire-speed.htm

thats the best route , with the current welder

you might want to keep in mind that carbs are flow rated at 1.5 inches of mercury, heads at 28" of water and that anyone who has ever watched a vacuum gauge, will tell you the readings fluctuate rapidly, under most conditions and vacuum tends to vary with the cam,used the rpms the engines running,throttle blade angle, displacement and intake design,exhaust scavenging,ETC. in most cases there factors are at least, mostly or on occasion, partly understood well enough that theres formulas and charts that can be used to define probable results, that parts selection will result in to a reasonable degree.

LOOK THRU MY DATA BASE, its there, as a resource to answer questions http://grumpysperformance.com/ http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=858