grumpyvette

I took ALOT of crap on iother sites after posting this ..... Oh IM only too aware of the minimal risks, but Im also aware of the huge cost differance, like 800% higher for copper and steel pipe rusts,, the copper pipe I used in the last shop would have cost me hundreds of dollars in this shop,the better moisture tollerance and several hundred psi safety margin (pipes rated at 660 psi and it will never see 140 psi) and almost negligible risk of injury, the worst case is it fails too hold air pressure and my air tools don,t work I probably would never have tried it if a buddys shop had not used it without any problems for over 12 years now , and hes located less than 5 miles from here so he gets similar shop temps and pressures on the pipe, IF.. I ever have the slightest problem ...Ill yank it out in a heart beat, and replace it with 3/4" hard copper pipe, sweated fittings like my old shop, but its been in use now for over a year in my garage, and over 12 years in a buddys garage with no problems, I just don,t see it as a potential flaw as of yet. personally I think all these dire warnings and predictions of impending doom are based on guys in the past useing cheap scedule 40 PVC ,and most likely connected where heat and vibration influenced the results, Ive used SCHEDULE 80 and its all mounted where its not ever going to be hit and firmly clamped to a concrete wall and rafters and its rated at 690 PSI, thats a 500% safety margin ,theres standard hydrolic hose from the compressors to the input point and theres a shut-off valve on each compressor. yeah IM aware that at 110 degrees F its down to a 300% safety margin , but since my compressors combined flow/pressure rarely reaches 120psi, I don,t feel all that threatened, if an when I have a problem ILL change it out, but its seems like a tempest in a tea pot problem at this point! http://www.harvel.com/tech-specs-pvc-pipe-40.asp theres a differance http://www.harvel.com/tech-specs-pvc-pipe-80.asp LIKE I said before, if it fails I see the air tools not working and little else being effected untill it gets replaced

read what the guys that wasted money on them say about those turbos http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124167

weld 1/2" bead, skip 2", weld 1/2" bead skip 2", repeat in a semi-random pattern untill the whole seam is welded, but ID advise starting on the edges and working to the center on nearly flat parts

free http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png small http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_24364_-1 large http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_39096_-1

congrats, any forward movement on a project helps

I Told You Engineers Can,t Spell Worth $%^&^&*

heres what Ive found so far, http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index.asp its not super easy to cross referance to other brands but it does give all the info with some minor effort & research

IM looking for links to oil filter cross over info or charts to interchange filters, example, if your currently useing a WIX and you want to use a PURALATOR or MOBILE or AC DELCO or MOTOCRAFT oil filter it would sure be nice to have ready access to direct interchance info, anyone have LINKS or CHARTS to a CROSS OVER/INTERCHANGE CHART perhaps a chart showing mounting thread size, and seal dia. and filter length, and or cars/engines filters are designed for? btw heres some filter info http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

bolts don,t tend to rust if you pour a pint of diesel fuel into the bucket and place an air tight lid on the buckets, yeah that means you pour the bucket out into a large metal pan and place them back then pour back the diesel over the bolts each time but that tends to prevent rust and keep them cleaner, and the wash tub can be used to collect oil drain oil temp, as its far larger and deeper than the plastic ones auto stores sell http://www.amazon.com/Dover-Parkersburg-5-6GAL-HOTDIP-OVAL-WASHTUB/dp/B00002N5XX/ref=pd_bbs_5/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1186583054&sr=8-5

like most older shops IVE got several 5 gallon bolt buckets of random spare bolts,it helps a great deal, and a salvage yard trip can gather several hands full for nearly zip, if you take tools and an afternoon to get a good sellection, its nearly hopeless, simply because you could have a spare for every bolt in your car and youll either not be able to find it when you need it or youll have used it elseware yesterday....resign your self to having several 5 gallon buckets of spare bolts in the shop and still need to ocasionally run to the local NAPA store,KEEP A SPIRAL NOTE BOOK AND PEN HANDY, TOO WRITE DOWN EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED SO YOU WILL GET EVERYTHING WHEN YOU GO TO GET PARTS,being on a first name basis at the local commercial BOLT supply house and being on a first name basis with the ARP guys,is mandatory when your doing this full time!. BTW if you make the trip to the local bolt/napa /hardware store and buy the bolts you need , buy a few extras and throw those in the 5 gallon shop bolt bucket, it makes you feel better because now you know the next time you need those bolts you have them on hand....not that youll be able to locate them you understand but having several 5 gallon buckets of bolts to look thru before making the trip to the bolt supply, gives you time to think, write down exactly what you need and and maybe avoid making two trips btw, yes youll need a tap/die set http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952386000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1 http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.164/TID./qx/product.htm http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2796

SUM-900189 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900189&N=700+318773+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+400304 (1) buy the piston stop and timing tape (2) remove all spark plugs and disconnect the battery if you have not done so yet (3) screw the piston stop into cylinder # 1 and adjust the depth so the piston in the cylinder can be placed almost to the top of its stroke before it touches the piston stop (4) rotate the engine by hand untill the piston touches the stop, use a fine tip scribe and some machinist blue on the crank snout and mark the 12 oclock point on the crank snout, now rotate the engine in the reverse dirrection and do the same thing again, the marks will be apart about 1/2"-1/4" exactly centered between the marks is TOP DEAD CENTER FOR CYLINDER #1 mark that on the crank, snout , move that so the true TDC mark is at 12 o-clock,now mark it on the damper so that the timing tab indicator on the engines timing cover or where ever it is on your engine shows that TDC on the damper and TDC on the timing tab MATCH, once thats done seat and lock the damper in place without moving the relative relationship between them,(if your sure the arrow points at 12 oclock put it there but be darn sure the true TDC and indicator on the engine and dampers outer surface agree with reality)) once the dampers on, clean with acetone and install the correct timing tape for the damper dia. and get a prick punch and make a mark on the crank snouts front edge and damper inner edge,contact point, so the punch hits the junction between the two, and then drill a 1/8" deep 1/32" hole at the junction so youll always in the future have a mark to align it exactly correct with below is the normal way for a sbc with a damper thats already correcly marked and indexed and your just verifying tdc http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyTDC.html BTW old post on degreeing in a cam youll need a few basic tools and a good understanding of what your doing, but its certainly not all that difficult. I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand (put curser on an click) http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62191&N=700+303547+115&autoview=sku you could buy these from summit racing or similar parts from jegs http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/topcategory_10001_10002_-1 MOR-62191 $44 (wheel) MOR-61755 $47 (SBC) MOR-61756 $47.(BBC)crank sockets SUM-900188 $17 (piston stop, head off) SUM-900189 $6.95(piston stop, head on) TFS-90000 $94.95 (degree kit) youll also want two flat tappet solid lifters and two weak check springs instructions http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyTDC.html http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf

http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_drive_shaft_angles/

EXACTLY!! if something won,t fit...STOP!.....take the effort and find out the reason,..... DON,T FORCE IT!

see a whole bunch of silly mistakes (I EVEN MAKE A FEW) but the one I can,t get my mind around, and see all the time is the guys that FORCE stuff thats OBVIOUSLY NOT FITTING OR THREADED CORRECTLY.....now IM not talking about tapping something into place with a plastic hammer, ...Im talking about the silly mindless stuff like trying too thread metric bolts into parts threaded for S.A.E. threads, or vice versa, I mean come on! after a turn or two its obviously binding!! if youve got the least experiance you reach for a thread gauge or a new bolt and verify the thread size and pitch, you don,t force it and screw up the threads or crack the part, or you reach for a tap or die set and clean the threads, put some oil or loctite or anti-seize on the threads, check the length, dia, pitch and location, do you have the correct bolt??? :thumbsup: yet I see guys install parts like headers, and when the header bolts bind after a turn or two, out comes the long ratchet, after a few turns out comes the breaker bar, and its still binding, so rather than check why Ive even seen guys reach for an 1/2" drive phnematic impact driver, at what point do you think that little voice in your head starts screaming.....HOLD IT, THOSE CYLINDER HEADS COST $3000, maybe, just maybe I should check out WHY the bolts binding???:spanked: BEFORE I CRACK THE CYLINDER HEADS or I see guys who thread a bolt in for an inch or more finger tight, then when it it seems it bottoms out and the heads not tight against the washer they reach for a breaker bar...., never thinking the bolts the wrong length, or in the wrong location Ive seen two friends very expensive cylinder heads cracked this way and a transmission seriously screwed up thru simply lack of paying attention and forcing sthe wrong bolt into the wrong hole this month alone (NO! I WAS NO WHERE NEAR AT THE TIME!) but I sure got called to diagnose misteryous leaks BTW if your taking something apart and your not totally familiar with the process and parts ,LABEL the bolts in a zip lock bag, use majic marker and masking tape, as to original part and location(and it sure won,t hurt even if youve done it a dozen times) sure it takes a few minutes, but its better than needing to tear it apart and replace expensive components due to carelessness)

"I got a little miffed by a person in my classified thread on LS1.com saying I was getting rich off parting out a car " your list is only too true! but youll eventually learn to ignore AS$%$%^^&s who say things like that who are clueless about what it takes to build a car on a very limited budget... Id have said, OK, you pick it up, give me what I paid and YOU get rich selling the parts, I don,t think I can pack any more army foot lockers with cash as it is.... I spent close to $10,000 once on building a bunch of custom engine parts, but after all the R&D, machine costs, dealing with jerk suppliers,morron machinists ETC. and hassle of marketing them at a reasonable price, to help other guys in the hobby, it quickly became a LOOSING DEAL,and it was basically wasted time. theres always guys who sit back and say, (I could build that cheaper, or better) but damn few will ever lift a finger to try, running off at the mouth is easy, pissing on others efforts is a sure sign of limited intelligence , BUT DOING SOMETHING CORRECTLY takes EFFORT and SKILL

anytime you get to thinking something can,t be adapted to fit, look thru this http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm

how many more AUTO RELATED TOOL suppliers can we list?

I store cams in 2" pvc one end has a glued pvc cap the other end a rubber cap with a radiator screw clamp I fill the PVC pipe about 1/2 full of cheap oil after the cams inserted then seal and shake gently, to cover the cam in oil and store them on a rack where I turn them on ocasion (tape an ID tag with info on the PVC pipe) Ive had a few cams in storage over 20 years that look new, plastic will eventually get brittle but if your not stressing it It works fine ,Ive had the same cam tubes for 20 plus years PVC pipe and caps in 6"-8" dia. or larger size gets prohibitively expensive army surplus store ocasionally sell dirt cheap heavy wall plastic containers that can be used for cranks,but you can store cranks in several 30 gallon trash bags once heavily sprayed with LPS #3 (yeah it says two years, but in a sealed plastic bag its good for well over 12 years plus) even in a large plastic storage box, BTW its best to roll the crank wrapped in the trash bag and coated with the LPS #3e in a sheet of cardboard sheet taped firmly around it to prevent the plactic from tearing and it aids stability when the cranks are stood on the flange ,and store it so the box its in can,t be hit tipped or get wet (off the floor on a shelf) Ive rarely needed to store more than 4 cranks and they all fit in one or two large air tight millitary surplus containers http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colemans.storefront/en/product/133301 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/lps_rust.php

"BTW, I disagree with the graphic in the post above" Id agree with you there, a properly set up geometry will barely move the contact point accross the valve tip and not sweep across the whole tip from side to side keep in mind the loads are higher at full and mid lift so thats when the rocker tip should be centered on the valve centerline and when the valves under max pressure vs when seated when its less important

sources for tools http://www.imperial-tools.com/tools/tools.html http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/ http://www.tavia.com/ http://www.toolsource.com/lisle-corp...FRKyYAodzAjXcw http://www.cartools.com/ http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/productindex.asp http://www.yother.com/plates.htm http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdindex.html?source=goto http://www.chapmanenterprise.com/products.html http://www.gesforless.com/ges4less/ http://www.pitstopusa.com/ENGINEMEASURINGTOOLS.asp http://www.lindytools.com/ http://www.cyberweld.com/ http://www.etoolcart.com/ http://www.maxtool.com/ http://www.mondello.com/Catalog/catalog_menu.htm http://www.welders-direct.com/ http://www.goodson.com/

almost any TIG welder has a huge advantage over a cheaper MIG because YOU can control the HEAT, its location an the rate of feed of the fill rods where you don,t have nearly that control on a mig, and can,t sit and heat and area without feeding wire like a tig or oxy-acetolene torch can. BTW NICE LOOKING TIG WELDS with a tig or oxy-acetolene torch you can usually do good looking solid welds once you aquire the skills with practice, the only disadvantage Ive seen is SPEED in welding a seam is slower, but the quality usually far outweights speed for home/hobby use, and not production use where time spent is a factor in cost

btw between myself and friends, weve tried these HF & hd welders http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94056 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55167 YOUVE GOT TO BE KIDDING, these were nearly totally useless http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93793 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94164 crappy quality but these at least did work ....some times... but not often http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43550 I liked this one,no problems at all, but it was not as easy to use as some Ive used heres some from HOME DEPOT lincoln 3200, WORKS but BARELY http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100093231 the 175 lincoln a big step up, but still not what Id suggest as adequate http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100395926 Lincoln Electric AC/DC 225/125 Welder GOOD BASIC NO FRILLS STICK WELDER http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100053881&N=10000003+90401&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

WHERE in FLORIDA are you located? If your close enough (local) Id be glad to help, but just some info, if the pan won,t clear and the main caps wont clear youve got basically two options, move the linkage lower or move the engine higher, or back further in the engine bay,now it may only require something like an inch to clear and generally custom motor mounts will easily accomplish that, or a custom linkage can be made in some applications, but the basic fact is youll need clearance and that angling the engine centerline to excessive angles can cause you a good deal of problems, yes in some cases youll need to re do the trans mounts or firewall, perhaps re shape the trans tunnel for clearance but anything can be done , it just takes careful thought, measurement and the skills and equipment to do the work. don,t get crazy, and quit, some time spent thinking thru your options and careful measurement, perhaps some careful customization or welding can and most likely will solve little problems like that. BTW it silly to try to (reinvent the wheel) if you can get the info from the guys who previously did the swap, about how they succeeded in doing this youll generally avoid the problem by following thier lead here! theres several of those cars out running around so its just a matter of talking too and perhaps getting pictures and measurement and part numbers ETC. to follow what they did previously http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873&highlight=z32+kit

IF you were located closer ID let you try about 7 differant welders and get the feel for each, I own 5 currently and the neighbors own several. like Ive said before, Ive used a bunch of welders and while Im no expert Id strongly suggest a name brand welder and one with a 220 volt feed , 110 volt welders give good results on sheet metal but once you get into the heavier stuff like frames and suspension components your better off with the option of more heat and penetration, yeah EVERYONES on a budget, but buying tools that won,t get the job done correctly and effectively is wasting money "A good welder can get the job done using cheap equipment. A bad welder will screw it up using the best equipment money can buy. Good equipment helps and its a bigger help to the inexperienced then to the journeyman." THATS VERY TRUE UP to a point, and that point is reached when the amps are not available to drive the heat fast and deep enought to get the job done correctly, you can,t just go over and over a spot and get a good result. YOU don,t need to spend a ton of cash either, but YOU DO NEED to know the differances and advantages and charicteristics of welders so ID strongly advise taking a welding course at a local college or night school a trade school etc. before spending your cash as its sure to pay off in much better choices being made. read thru these threads http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124196 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80366 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80702 heres a decent fairly cheap mig, that will handle almost any car related steel welding http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 heres a dirt cheap stick welder that in skilled hands would work, but not nearly like the miller mig unit http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K1170

you might want to look into BEE HIVE VALVE SPRINGS, if they are available for your application. they allow both a lighter spring with the same pressures and a smaller dia, and lighter weight retainer , giving greater rocker clearance and lighter inertial loads at high rpm check with your cam supplier they tend to cost slightly more but they can give you some additional rpm capacity and lower stress keep in mind the seat dia. on the heads is usually limited or set by what can be machined ,the coil bind or stack height and installed height must match the cam lift clearance and and both the open and stationary s, issues like inside dia. and distances between retainer and valve guides ETC. dictate the valve seals that can be used, spring loads must match the application, yes when you sellect a cam, the cam supplioer will generally suggest matched springs, and an installed height and matched components, and yes they have a marked interest in your engine performing well , so they will tend to give good info, they are NOT just trying in most cases ,to increase thier profits by selling you stuff you don,t need. yes stock springs are fine IN SOME APPLICATIONS, but you must ALWAYS check spring clearances and loads and valve train geometry theres a big differance in spring quality between the O.E.M and the better aftermarket springs and running double or triple springs can at times be an option, remember lighter valve train components usually reduce stress, allow less spring pressure and resulting valve train wear, and tend to increase the rpm range http://www.racingsprings.com/beehivesprings.htm http://www.ovaltracking.com/tech/2006/i_1-beehive-3.html http://www.dougherbert.com/1445beehivesprings-p-22853.html http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_753897_-1_10699 http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/vortec_valve_spring_upgrade/ Id use any decent quality springs from any NAME BRAND manufacturer reguardless of brand if the specs matched the required clearances and loads, naturally the manufacturer of the cam has a vested interest in your engine running correctly so thier advice should be taken seriously, but because its a very competative market they will rarely point out the BEST springs, opting for the slightly more that adequate choice to keep the costs lower and make the sale, knowing that in most cases thats going to be the best compromise , but I certainly would avoid "deals" from sources like EBAY where your not sure what your getting and they have little to loose selling cheap imported junk, after all its YOUR engine thats going to be damaged if they fail, and quality COSTS more than JUNK!