grumpyvette

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101463 you should read thru this thread first, and Id sure try to find a donor 1970-73 eldorado or similar car with with a 500 caddy if you can (preferably with rear drive) btw the 472 and 500 caddys have the same outside dimensions only the stroke, heads, and internals differ __________________

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-433-8 Id personally suggest a minimum of 10:1 cpr with that cam youve got to measure hood clearances , to find what will fit/clear, the intake choice, will be related more to your rear gear ratio , stall speed,and average RPM BAND you actually use, the RPM air gap is a good intake and if you currently have one, Id at least test it before swapping, ANY single plane intake will cause a loss of low rpm tq, and a slight increase in high rpm power. that may or may not be a good Idea, I like the single plane intakes WITH NITROUS KITS, as they help equalize the port flow rates and with a 383 running a 3.73 rear gear,3000 stall ,10;1 cpr,and that cam you can,t always use all the low rpm tq on street tires, that a dual plane intake provides, but its nice to have at part throttle. if you won,t run nitrous, the RPM makes for a good compromise as to getting your cpr up with 76cc heads, steel or copper shim haed gaskets in the .015-.021 range and a small dome piston helps

first let me point out that Im sorry for the confusion here, (the intakes are generally LISTED/ADVERTISED AS good for the 3000rpm-8000rpm band) my engine combos USEING them generally run in the 3500rpm-6500rpm range) I don,t have a scanner but Ill see If I can get the info posted as to the "Edel RPM style, Stealth, or Holley 300-36 dual plane." , your correct, if these were N/A engine combos, but the combos were DESIGNED to use a 200-250hp shot of NITROUS, not run N/A, and have consistantly shown better results with those single plane intakes

now Ill freely admit that Ive only tested ALL three differant intakes on three individualy engine combos , but Ive tested at least 6 more engine combos with just two of them and theres a strong trend, thats obvious. and Id point out these intakes are to be used only on nearly full racing combos, not the street, as a general rule since they are designed to operate in the 3000rpm-8000rpm band now I generally use these on 383-421 displacement SBC engines and a 200 hp nitrous plate,on engines with all forged components and about a 10.5:1 cpr with 195cc-210cc port cylinder heads and a SOLID LIFTER ROLLER OR FLAT TAPPET cam in the 245-250 intake durration range (1) EDL-2925 $209.95 Ive used these alot till now, they REQUIRE extensive clean-up work but produce good power (2) HLY-300-110 $228.95 these have proved to be exceptional, MY NEW FAVORITE, in every case they produced the best power if only by a few hp, but at times very noticable improvement and require only minor clean up work, could be used out of the box (3) http://www.professional-products.com/manifoldsProductSBchevy.php Polished 52030 Satin 52031 HURRICANE for 23° Heads 1957-’95 Small Block Chevy V8 surprisingly good results, once the intakes cleaned up, BUT REQUIRE EXTENSIVE clean-up work to get everything working correctly

like always think it thru, the larger and older companys have more experiance, have more money invested in newer equipment, and spend more on research, I use these companys because both the tech support and products are very good, modern computer designed lobes are far supperior to the older designs in most cases and the larger companys have up-dated most if not all of thier older designs CRANE..Tech Line - 386-258-6174 http://www.cranecams.com/ CROWER..Phone: 619-661-6477 http://www.crower.com/ LUNATI ..1888-201-2066 http://www.partshp.com/Lunati.htm ERSON 775.882.1622 http://go.mrgasket.com/brands.aspx?BrandID= ISKY 323.770.0930 http://www.iskycams.com/ I don,t use COMP CAMS while thier products may be ok they have given me bad advice frequently and by a huge margin the worst tech support in the industry while a smaller company may produce excellent cams the odds are they can,t affort the massive investment in modern digital computer controlled equipment for checks and design work, so the chances of getting a lemon is higher

these questions come up frequently, how can they charge that much? , do I really need that done? how can it take so long? are those really the best parts? can I use these instead? why will that part that costs twice as much, be any better than this part i have now? well Im the first guy to tell you that some shops DO overcharge for the work, but at the same time ILL point out that they have ALOT of money tied up in equipment,time and SKILLS/KNOWLEDGE in the better shops and they are a business that needs to STAY in BUSINESS, shops that have been in business for many years are slightly more likely to be trustworthy it would be a fairly small shop that had less than a MILLION DOLLARS in equipment and less that three guys on the pay roll, so keep that in mind. most of the better shops have many times that amount in expences. sellecting a shop, is not all that hard, just buy a pit pass and talk EXTENSIVELY with at least several DOZEN hard core racers with cars that are running at least in the 11 second or faster range ask thier opinions, youll find out quickly whose a crook, whose honest and who gets thier work out quickly and done correctly.but don,t take any one or two guys advice as the truth, any shop has good and bad days and customers with good and bad results,(now Im not always refering to the work they put out, a guy can do excellent work and some idiot can assemble/abuse parts without checking clearances and blow up an engine and then blame the shop most shops are in business to sell you parts and services, they tend to get discounts on some parts and prefer to sell you those, in many cases thats a win/win deal, but in some its just cheap junk with a higher proffit margin, you need to research the differance, and learn HOW to tell the differance and learn how to check clearances, NEVER TAKE A MACHINESHOPS word that something been done untill you VERIFY it with an independent measurement or check

do the research on ALL the necessary components and ID bet youll find that while dual quads can be purchased ready to run for under $1250 tripple duces set up with the correct carbs/linkage ETC could easily cost TWICE as MUCH, and not run any better http://www.barrygrant.com/tripled/default.aspx while edelbrock still makes a 3 duce intake the correct carbs that fit are really hard to find keep in mind on a correctly set up three duce intake the engine idles on only the center carb and the twin outside carbs act ONLY as secondaries and open in unison like the rear two venturies on a 4 barrel carb, you cant just stick three two barrels on there, first they won,t fit due to clearance issues, and they won,t opperate correctly, as they are designed to operate thru the full rpm range, not just from 2500rpm and up like the orriginal set ups besides the dual quads costing less they have a slight performance and tuning advantage,STICK TO THE DUAL QUADS, if you must have multi carbs or a single carb if you want to keep cost and tuning issues lower/simplier, youll be ahead

DUAL 4 BARREL CARBS LOOK GOOD, SOUND GOOD AND WILL PERFORM WELL, BUT THIER PERFORMANCE ADVANTAGE IS SLIGHT TO zip or NON,EXISTANT, compared to a well set up 4 barrel/intake , they won,t get as good gas mileage and they are far harder to tune correctly,personally I love dual quads, but they are far from ideal at $3 a gallon for gas http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DCEDL300&N=700+4294845683+115&autoview=sku (BTW the picture at summits generic not a chevy intake) think it thru, dual quads are neat looking but will cost more and if your not into tunning they can be a bitch to get correctly set up,(I personally love them, but most guys can,t tune/adjust for $%^^& if your going to get good performance rom that 350 youll need higher compression pistons,and a matched cam, by the time you reballance, re-ring, and put new bearings into that 350 the cost differance, upgrading to a longer stroke crank to build a 383, (ESPECIALLY ONCE THE ADDVANTAGE OF LARGER DISPLACEMENT) is figgured in is only going to be a few hundred at MOST MORE,ID sure build a 383

ok heres where REALITY steps on your dream world...many of your stated requirements are somewhat contradictory, like your very unlikely to get these goals without very expensive parts(turbo,supercharger,dirrect port nitrous injection,etc) and you need the higher stall converter and better heads, larger displacement, etc, if your serious about reaching deep in the 11 second range and reaching 160mph, both goals require power levels your unlikely to reach with a 2000rpm stall speed and a truely traffic friendly engine combo. you could build that 383 and build it with good quality parts for about $6000-$7000 starting from scratch. (less if your willing to shop hard and do your own assembly), but the other combo would EASILY run TWICE as much, and youve still got the suspension,brakes,coolant,roll cage,tires,ETC after thats done.... GOALS: drivable in stop-&-go traffic cruise easily downtown & on the highway skunk most other performance cars on the road... (...especially modified Mustangs) "reasonable" fuel mileage 11's in the quarter mile 160+ top speed yes all those goals COULD be met...but it would require a VERY EXPENSIVE combo of parts and since your very obviously on a fairly limited budget (LIKE MOST OF US ARE!) Id strongly suggest just building a responsive 383 that makes good power, in the 450-500hp plus range, like I posted on the other thread http://airflowresearch.com/eliminator.php[/url] Engine Specs: 383 CID 9.6 : 1 CR ...boost to 10.5:1 Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Comp 236/242 Hydrolic Roller Cam swap to the crane 114681 solid flat tappet cam/lifters Holley 750 Carb 1.75 Long Tube Headers MSD Ignition 38° advance with original 195's 37° advance with Eliminator 195's Penzoil 15w-40 93 octane Amoco pump fuel http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html to cut cost significantly, swap to a 10.5:1 cpr and a crane 114681 flat tappet cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 and use 1.6 roller rockers, CHECK ALL CLEARANCES TWICE...MAKE THAT FOUR TIMES ..CAREFULLY youll want a 3.73:1-4.11:1 rear gear and a MANUAL trans or a 3000rpm stall converter....yeah your correct if your thinking the engine will lope and lack some power under about 2500rpm, but hold on tight after that rpm till well in excess of 6000rpm if you want slightly more lope and are willing to accept a roughter idle and want more low rpm torque, you can have almost the same cam on a tighter LCA http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 either cam choice will make close too/more than 500 hp easily, depending on how the engines built you could also go the cheap route, install a set of 10.5:1 pistons AND A 3.75" STROKE CRANK in your current 350 block, BUILD A 383 WITH A STROKER CRANK ASSEMBLY and install a slightly milder cam, LIKE A crower #00320 http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00320&x=14&y=12 AND YOUR CURRENT HEADS youll spend far less than $2000-$2500 ON THE ENGINE AND GET TO ABOUT 380-400HP, BUT A 3.73:1 REAR GEAR AND A 3000 STALL CONVERTER IS ADVISED STRONGLY AS IS A GOOD LOW RESTRICTION EXHAUST YOULL PROBABLY RUN 12S BUT AT 1/4-1/2 THE COST AND FAR LESS WORK TAN THE OTHER OPTIONS

http://airflowresearch.com/eliminator.php[/url] Engine Specs: 383 CID 9.6 : 1 CR ...boost to 10.5:1 Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Comp 236/242 Hydrolic Roller Cam swap to the crane 114681 solid flat tappet cam/lifters Holley 750 Carb 1.75 Long Tube Headers MSD Ignition 38° advance with original 195's 37° advance with Eliminator 195's Penzoil 15w-40 93 octane Amoco pump fuel http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html to cut cost significantly, swap to a 10.5:1 cpr and a crane 114681 flat tappet cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 and use 1.6 roller rockers, CHECK ALL CLEARANCES TWICE...MAKE THAT FOUR TIMES ..CAREFULLY youll want a 3.73:1-4.11:1 rear gear and a MANUAL trans or a 3000rpm stall converter....yeah your correct if your thinking the engine will lope and lack some power under about 2500rpm, but hold on tight after that rpm till well in excess of 6000rpm if you want slightly more lope and are willing to accept a roughter idle and want more low rpm torque, you can have almost the same cam on a tighter LCA http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 either cam choice will make close too/more than 500 hp easily, depending on how the engines built

I can give you a realitively cheap and simple combo, but if you don,t follow it almost exactly (which some guys don,t) it won,t work correctly...and youll need to be truthful about what your looking for and be willing to put up with a few facts, and one is that it ALWAYS COSTS MORE THAN YOU THINK,and IF it runs great at 6000rpm and can scare the hell out of you, accelleration wise,chances are excellent that it runs like crap at 1000-1500rpm in traffic and getting the rear gear ratio and stall speed correct is almost as important as the cam,cpr and heads used...you CAN,T just swap parts you got at a good DEAL price, parts must match,sure you can get a smokin deal on some parts, but they are almost worthless if they don,t match the intended application

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html notice that it takes BOTH good heads and a decent cam to pull decent hp/tq numbers and that its far easier with a larger displacement and higher cpr

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/edelbrock_performer_rpm_cs.htm http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm you won,t gain a thing going to standard vortecs over the rpm heads, thats wasted money,but Id need to know more about your current combo to know where your best areas are and where the worst potential lies, or to know where your restricted, those heads may not be great but they are certainly adequate for a mild build, the compression,cam timing, rear gear,converter and exhaust, ETC.,ETC, are all suspect at this point, please post your combo "I'd like to increase and broaden the torque curve. I want this engine to pull hard all the way to 6K RPM." doing thats not hard, and making good power doing its not too hard, but youll need to carefully match components, now I don,t know what your drive train consists of, but if your going to rebuild that 350, Id strongly suggest you start looking into a 383 10.5:1 cpr stroker assembly and a good solid lifter cam, as you can make a very impressive engine that way, provided you think things thru before jumping in with both feet

http://www.rustpuppy.org (goodwrench quest) might also help you get a good grasp on the diffferance in potential

the originasl vortec haeds are designed for max TORQUE in the 3500rpm area on a 350 displacement, they flow much better than a few stock, cast heads but there NOT PERFORMANCE HEADS http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_gm_bow_tie_vortec_small_block_engine/photos.html chevy has just announced NEW versions of the vortec heads which are designed for increased flow and are similar to the FASTBURN heads but the new vortec 206cc heads are CAST IRON with a 64cc chamber PART # 25534371 bare# 25534431 assembled theres also a slightly improved 175cc version part# 25534351 read this http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/ these new heads are drilled and tapped for both old and new valve cover and both old and vortec style intakes, they have 2.00 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves and 65cc chambers GM has also released a new 383 425hp crate engine part # `12498772 25534431 Vortec Bow-Tie Large Port Cylinder Head, Complete GM Performance Parts' latest and most powerful iron cylinder head with "Large Port" for Street or Racing. This Vortec design Special Performance cast iron cylinder head features revised intake and exhaust ports and includes 2.00" hollow stem intake valve P/N 12555331 and 1.55" sodium filled exhaust valves P/N 12551313. The deck surface is .450" with 65 cc combustion chambers, 206 cc intake and 77 cc exhaust ports. All Vortec intake ports are taller and narrower than early model Chevrolet heads. The valve cover mounting holes are for both early model flange and late model center. This head also includes intake manifold mounting holes for both early model 6 bolt main and late model 4 bolt Vortec design. The head has screw in rocker studs P/N 12552126, large valve spring pocket machining, and will accept up to .530" lift camshafts without modifications. Heads are identified with the Bow-Tie logo on the exterior of the head below exhaust flange and Vortec logo on top of intake port area. They also feature GM logo cast into bottom of intake ports. Includes valve spring P/N 12551483, valve seal P/N 10212810, and spring cap P/N 10212808. Technical Note: You must use a raised runner design intake mainifold P/N 10051103 (6 bolt mounting), or Vortec design 12366573, 12496820, 12496821, 12496822, and 12499371 (4 bolt mounting) with this head. You can use production Vortec intake gaskets P/N 12529094 (torque spec. 11 ft-lb/ 15Nm) for mounting Vortec design heads or use P/N 12497760 (torque spec. 30 ft-lb) with conventional material when using on early model raised runner or Vortec design intake manifolds, this gasket has both 6 bolt and 4 bolt Vortec attaching holes. Head casting P/N 25534371C.

its NOT the lift so much, as the valve opening and closeing points,(durration and LCA) matched too the displacement and compression ratio, that effects the tq curve keep in mind the piston compresses ZIP /NADA untill both valves close,spread the LCA and add durration and that huge 400-500-600, or larger inch displacement, will be almost useless at low rpms simply because a great deal of potential cylinder pressure and fuel/air mix is getting wasted, in reversion, or pumped out the exhaust, un-used youll make your best power when your most effectively filling and burning the highest percentage of the cylinders volume, and that occures only at the point where both the number of power strokes per minute and the volumetric efficency filling the cylinders are near maximum, stroke, cpr, port cross setion,valve size,exhaust scavaging, effect, the results but its very easy to screw up the parts sellection where one component restricts all the other parts effiency. in the case above all but the cam stayed the same and all parts matched at 5500rpm with the milderr cam, the wilder cam was designed for 7400rpm, and bleed off excessive cylinder pressure under 5000rpm, yeah its an extreme in mis-matched parts but I see it frequently read thru this carefully ITS an excellent source of info http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_camshaft_basics/ theres nothing new here, but most guys still screw it up because they don,t match ALL the components flow and rpm bands,or they over cam, or use retrictive heads or not enought compression

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0606ch_cylinder_head_performance_test/index.html heres the article that didn,t post before its worth the effort to read thru and compare the results, notice the port size had far less effect than the flow numbers, but no one single factor was totally dominate in forcing the results to be predictable

is it not amazing how long these threads keep dragging on and slowly building?

Im posting this copy of a thread here to get some of you guys to stop and think thru your combos, while theres guys here that can more than likely build better engines than I can, the vast majority are guys that need all the help you can get, so I hope this helps ok CONFESS! did you think it thru, or did you just build it the way the magazine did or your buddies said you should? now each of us has to do what he feels is correct, but Im constantly amazed at the guys that would rather impress thier buddies with a long list of radical race only parts like cams and heads, intakes, ETC. than think thru a project, research the potential carefully and build it to do exactly what THEY want and can use VS what thier (BUDDIES) say they should build. now IM no EXPERT, but I have build well over 80 bbc engine (I lost count) and I do know what will and what won,t work in most applications...both thru extensive software testing and EXPERIANCE building the real things example I recently suggested a solid roller cam for a bbc application where street driven depenability was a significant factor, useing a 4.25" stroker,crank,(496 displacement) I suggested a cam with approximately a .620 lift and 247 durration which perfectly matched the application,rpm range and expected power range, keeping in mind that the spring pressures on those roller lifters ran between 360 seat lbs and 480 open lbs which is on the low end of the roller lifter range, and the ramp design was designed for excellent valve control with long term durrabillity, because , I don,t see swapping out $300-$800 worth of components every few thousand miles as a realistic option just to gain a few hp that a wilder cam would produce, now Ill be the first to admit that the larger cam would potentially produce noticably more PEAK HP,and this is important, AT AN RPM LEVEL youll rarely reach, BUT not AVERAGE HP within the normal opperational rpm band and theres a differance! WAS I wrong with my suggestion? hell, Ive been married 37 years, Im used to being told IM wrong, I decided to run all the specs and find out, nothing but the cam specs was changed, I WAS SHOCKED TO SEE THE RESULTS, SOFTWARE PREDICTED, EXPERIANCE and SEVERAL PREVIOUS ENGINE BUILDS MADE ME THINK I WAS CORRECT, BUT LOOK AT THE RESULTS the wilder cam with its aproximately .700 lift requires a spring rate of aproximately 360 seat lbs to 800 open lbs and the ramp accelleration rates are on the control edge, life expectancy is in the low HUNDREDs of HOURS vs years for the milder cam, designed for limited street use VS the wilder RACE ONLY DESIGN now lets compare what the probable results will be..heres what the milder cams results predicted thru my software dyno,looks like this rpm, torque, horsepower 2000--510......195 3000--575......329 4000--626......477 5000--641......610 6000--585......668 the wilder cam 2000....277....105 3000....381....218 4000....461....351 5000....545....519 6000....555....633 7000....510....679 7500....500....710 yeah those 700 lift and 267 duration numbers look impressive on the spec card.....but do they fit your application??? BTW the piston speed limmited you to about 6300rpm before youll start breaking parts

like most guys my budget won,t allow me to do nearly what Id like to do at the rate Id like to do it! (especially since my garage building project has used so much of my saved and future budget) but don,t get discouraged, it takes BOTH time and skills PLUS money and the time, can be used in research to make your project better

IVE NEVER EVER SUGGESTED PROPANE as a method to find leaks INSIDE the engine, OUTSIDE YES, INSIDE NO! if IT was my engine and I suspected the intake to head was not sealed ID PULL AND INSPECT THE INTAKE, its that simple

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D1406&N=700+400065+%2D42057+%2D128233+115&autoview=sku these work fairly well, especially if your not into advanced tuning, and just want a bolt and drive carb that gives reasonable (ABOVE) but heres what Id sellect (BELOW) if price was the main factor yet I wanted to have flexibility to tune results http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D0%2D4777C&N=700+%2D42057+%2D128233+115&autoview=sku

if the stock cams used or a near stock cam and stock heads, theres no question a good dual plane intake like the EDELBROCK RPM PLUS AIR GAP is the correct choice, simply because youll never pull the high enough average rpms necessary to get the benefit from the single plane designs a general rule you can use, is its very rare for a single plane intake to give better results with a cam having under about 230 dur at .050 lift...if your cams got less duration than 230 deg,s at .050 l;ift its almost certain a good dual plane intake will work best. you might want to read thru this, keep in mind that both the intake and exhause effect the cylinder fill thru exhaust scavaging durring the overlap period when both valves are open http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6992/vizard.html http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Theory/theory.html http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_measurement_1.htm#b ]http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2003 http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/4328/ http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html youll need this http://www.csgnetwork.com/tempconv.html http://www.easysurf.cc/cnver14.htm#fk2

sounds like youll have an EXCELLENT & IMPRESSIVE, well designed little (Z) to play with once your done how about extensive specs, photos, and all the info on the swap,suspension and mods needed...did I mention EXTENSIVE PHOTOS

you want a know good combo 385 Cu.In. 10.5:1 cpr GM 4 Bolt "010" Block 4.04 Forged SRP pistons -16cc Eagle Cast 3.75" Crank Crower 6.0" 4340 I beam rods Crower Billet Steel ROLLER Cam 254/257 @ .050 .712 lift w/ 1.6 rockers 108* LSA installed at 104* Jesel Shaft Rockers 1.6:1 PSI Springs 230# closed, 620# open Super Victor Intake ported to match heads, Fel-Pro 1209 Wilson Manifolds 1.5" carb spacer Holley HP950 Carb, 79-81 jets, .055 air bleeds all the way around MSD Pro-Billet Distributor Custom Stepped headers 1.75 - 1 7/8 - 2" Iron Eagle Platinum 230cc Heads CNC'd by M2 Racing 320cfm @ .700 333 cfm @ .800 66cc chambers 42* total timing 110 octane on dyno will run 91 on street It's a custom billet steel ROLLER cam. Youll need to order one 282/286 adv 254/257 @ .050 .445 lift @ lobe .712 lift w/ 1.6:1 rockers 108* LSA 104* ICL Solid Roller 450tq 580hp http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldyno.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers2.jpg http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml youll need a 4000rpm stall converter or a manual trans and a 4.11-4.33 rear gear choice two (BUT BUILD IT AS A 383 NOT A 355) http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_gm_bow_tie_vortec_small_block_engine/ choice three, and more choices http://airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC http://airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.php http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article120/A-P1.htm