grumpyvette

you would never believe the differance in weight between iron and aluminum heads on a big block CHEVY or HEMI if you think those SMALL BLOCK heads are a big differance

http://members.aol.com/powerrslid/thm2004r.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/200rebld.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/converter_dims.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_life_expectancy.htm this may help

just some info Ive seen a whole lot of vettes with performance BUILT 700R4 transmissions that were TOAST/JUNK/BUSTED, neither the 700r4 or the 200r4 are designed to handle more than 350 ft lbs in stock condition. the aftermarket parts in both transmissions can improve the strength but youll never get to near the strength a 4L80E/th400 potentially has simply because the SIZE LIMITS inside the case and the total CLUTCH and GEAR SIZE in the 700r4 or the 200r4 is significantly smaller HEAT/SHOCK LOADS and EXCESSIVE TORQUE LOADS KILL TRANSMISSIONS, NOT HORSEPOWER a correctly built 4L80E can handle 800 hp/600ft lbs while a well built 200r4 or 700R4 is working on the upper edge at 400-450 ft lbs even with aftermarket parts any place that advertizes a HP rate is B.S.ing you, look the formula for hp is tq x rpm divided by 5252=horsepower so 350 ft lbs x 3500rpm /5252=233hp 350 ft lbs x 7000rpm/5252= 466hp 600 ft lbs at 2500rpm/5252=285hp now the last engine has far less hp than the second, yet it will twist up and spit out the remains of a 700r4 almost instantly while the second example will last for years if a good trans cooler is used

btw heres more OIL info http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.melling.com/support/bulletins/default.asp http://www.melling.com/select/oil_pumps_gm_chevy_small_block.asp

the oil pick-up needs to be mounted between 3/8-1/2" from the oil pan floor. small block oil pumps generally but not in all cases have 5/8" pickup tube dia. while BIG blocks generally but not in all cases have 3/4" pickup tube dia. keep in mind that in many cases the big block pump can be bolted onto and used on the small block engine (a comon mod) and that you need to carefully check clearances on the oil pump,oil pump drive shaft to distributor length and pan to pickup clearances in all oil pump installations braze the pick-up tube to the pump body so the pick up is 3/8" MINIMUM, 1/2" maximum from the oil pan floor and use a large lump of MODELING CLAY (every mechanic should have some its great for checking clearances)on the pickup then install the pan temp. with no gasket and remove to measure the thickness of the clay your local arts/craft store sells it in 1 lb blocks I usually use brite blue or black but suit your self, a digital caliper or even a ruler will get you the thickness measurement your looking for) http://store.yahoo.com/teacher-parent-store/modelingclay.html http://www.guildcraftinc.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=102-500 once its correctly possitioned ,remove the bye pass spring and gears from the oil pump,and have the pick-up brazeD or welded to the pump body, then after it SLOWLY AIR cools (DON,T DROP IT IN WATER LET IT AIR COOL)replace the byepass spring and gears, lube the pump,with assembly lube on the gears, check the clearances, check clearances again! and install! just be damn sure its brazed or welded in the correct location as that 3/8"-1/2" is critical to good oil voluum feeding the pick-up http://users.erols.com/jyavins/solder.htm http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq_brazing_versus_soldering.html http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm silver soldering is basically lower temp brazeing , the soldering metal flows over the surface and into micro cracks in the surace of the other metal forming a almost unremoveable bond to the other metals surface it allows you to stick iron to steel or brass to steel, it works more or less like normal solder does on copper but at higher temps and has a much stronger grip in addition too working on iron and steel I vastly prefer the 5 BOLT BBC style pumps with the 12 tooth gears and thier larger 3/4" pick-up VS the small 4 bolt pumps with thier 5/8" pick-ups and 7 tooth gears. the oil flow is both higher pressure at low rpms and smoother in pulse presure spread,no! you don,t need it on a non-race combo, or even on some race combos but its nice to have and I willingly will loose a few hp pumping oil for better engine lubracation most comon question I get? "will a high volume oil pump help or hurt my engine?" followed by some guy saying "If you're using a stock capacity pan, the high volume oil pump could actually suck out all the oil from the pan before it is drained back in, thus creating bad, bad problems" absolutely proven false bye SMOKE YUNICK with HIGH SPEED PHOTOGRATPHY and CLEAR WINDOWS IN ROCKER COVERS AND OIL PANbut what can and does happen is the oil pump pickup can and does get mounted or moved too high or low in the oil pan,restricting access to the oil supply, sometimes the pickup comes loose or under hard acceleration or brakeing the oil in a non-baffled pan can rush away from the pickup under (G) forces, this is not pumping the pan dry, a baffled pan with a windage screen with the same oil supply volume would work perfectly ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. keep this in mind, good oil flow volume across the bearing surfaces to cool and luberacate them and to provide a boundry layer between the metal surfaces is more important than the pressure reached at all rpms. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (hell no! at that level the stock pump works fine) above that level the extra oil will definitely helppossiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm. nore did they forsee valve springs that placed sometimes as much as 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either , the stock pump works but was never designed for the loads and rpms that a modern engine hotrodded to over 450hp sees the standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer) heres the discriptions right from chevy 12555884 SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump. 62.17 14044872 SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen. and yes I comonly build small blocks useing bbc oil pumps like the ls7 pump, it has 1.3" gears but they are bigger in dia. and have 12 not 7 teethlike the small block pumps (many standard sbc pickups use 5/8" dia. pickups) (the ls7 pump is best used on 8qt-9qt road racing oilpans as the larger 3/4" pickup flows lots of oil for extreme high rpm engines with a multi baffled pan useing windage screens, scrappers and cut outs for extreme (G) loads where a dry sump can,t be used or cost makes you stick to a wet sump pan. these LS7 pumps dont fit most sbc oil pans so your stuck using the high volume sbc oil pump if your not using a true racing 8-9 qt style oil pan in some cases since I just got an E-MAIL about what mods are necessary or at least a good idea when running a high volume oil pump, and concern over possiable extra gear wear caused by the slightly and I do mean slightly increased pressure on the gears, guys Im getting the idea here that most of you are not aware that your normally suppose to cut a .060 wide x .005-9 deep grouve in the lower band on the distributor houseing so that extra oil sprays constantly on the contact point between the cam and distributor gears and that a ARP style drive shaft with a steel collar to hold the dirveshaft alignment on true center is mandatory for long high rpm use. look at this picture the grouve is cut under the bottom (O)ring in the band just above the gear (look at the picture above, (BTW the pic shows a smaller grouve than ideal)) and in line with the gears so that oil sprays on the gear contact points at all times, this is a mod most old time racers know about and use, but Im getting the idea the new guys have not picked up on it! (those two bands form the side of an oil passage in the block and the distributor shaft seals that passage, cutting the grouve sends a spray of high pressure oil onto the contact point at all times, if you dont cut the grouve your relieing on returning zero pressure oil flowing down the rear lifter gallery drain holes to lube the gears BTW the other way to do this is to grouve the block in the distributors lower band area as this keeps the location of the oil jet constant as the distributor is turned, for a full contact spray on the gears so I generally do BOTH

I don,t know why, but theres ONLY little red (X)s and no pictures? anywhere in this thread

"how does it all compare to a belt drive?" belt drives are generally far more expensive, at $470-$1000 vs $160-$500 they run quieter and have advantages http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D6507&N=317828+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PJJ%2D350%2D91C&N=400293+115&autoview=sku

Gear drive VS chain cam drives, Id first point out that a CLOYES true roller chain cam drive will work just fine in most applications, but you need to check the slack every 20,000 miles or so under the conditions most guys put street engines, but I constantly hear guys repeating the MYTH that gear drives cause harmonic loads to be transfered to the cam, Ive tested, and checked extensively and the gear drives tend to maintain the correct timing longer and have no bad problems and certainly last far longer than the chain drives WHEN CORRECTLY INSTALLED AND INDEXED well, My opinion differs here!, I tend to favor QUIET gear cam drives in PERFORMANCE ENGINE BUILDS,over chain drives , because chain drives get slack and tend to allow the cam timing to vary with rapid engine load changes like durring shifts except in cars with KNOCK sensors, where the slight gear whine might cause the knock sensor to randomly retard the ignition timing. Ive used several different brands and find nothing wrong with a CORRECLY INSTALLED Pete Jackson dual idler gear drive, in fact I’ve used that (QUIET) Pete Jackson gear drive, in the 383 that’s been in my corvette for several years with zero problems as with most parts, installation must be correct, clearances checked, ETC. or you’ll HAVE PROBLEMS!, READ/UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS, and ASK, QUESTIONS and know the reasons and answers , before installing any part or you’ll probably run into problems, Id have changed several chain drives bye this time, but the same gear drive I installed over 8 years ago still works fine and maintains the correct clearances but Ill also point out I run a high volume oil pump, a 10 baffled QT oil pan and have extra oil jets drilled (#60 drill bit)in the oil passage plugs behind the cam gear http://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm the two outside plugs that’s part of the install process place (with the gasket) using a large lump of modeling clay , and dial calipers http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2079569&PMT4NO=9937412 http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?leve...rue&An=text Under the timing cover and test bolt it in place, remove the clay an carefully measure the clearances.. (BTW spray the inside cover and the block with WD 40 first it tends to prevent the clay from sticking)the axles on the idler gears should have about a .002-.010 clearance between the cover and the block, this keeps the gears running in the same basic track once the engines assembled, you don,t want the axles to bind/or be in constant contact, under tension with the cover, as that might tip/bind the gear, and a light coat of moly on the gears won’t hurt. This frequently requires a light touch of a file to shorten the axles a few thousands, but youll not know without TESTING for the correct clearances with the clay youll also need the retaining plate, cam button and loc-tite http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D60460&N=115&autoview=sku

youve GOT TO BE KIDDING !! if you really have a bearing starting to fail and not an exhaust leak, the faster you pull it down and correct the problem the LESS DAMAGE will be done to the engine, from metalic crud that the fast failing parts are bound to be producing, as they wear, let alone what will happen once the parts completely fail and start knocking holes in the block/heads running the engine under that condition is like shooting holes in the bottom of a boat to let the water drain out while your in the center of the lake! keep in mind the more parts that remain in a reuseable condition the cheaper the rebuild costs will tend to be...when an engine self destructs you might be able to save only a few parts like the water pump, damper,valve covers,ETC.

I really know better, its just that I figured (how can they possiably screw it up!) Im asking for a stock replacement part on a truck. but those guys could screw up a bowling ball by looking at it! I learned long ago that it was a total waste of time to ask for anything that MIGHT require THOUGHT, like anytime the guy behind the counter has a MULITIPLE choice in head gaskets,oil pan gaskets,etc. , in the computer, your F%^&*&* DOOMED ,if you don,t know the part number and brand you want BEFORE ENTERING THE STORE

OK! I CONFESS, IVE GONE BRAIN DEAD AT TIMES... (this is not the dumb part yet) I gave my son my 2003 avalanche truck, and since his hearing is better than mine , he informs me the truck makes a squeaky noise I can,t hear on accellerating mildly,alittle research reveals a bad U-joint..so off to the auto parts store I go for parts.... now this is the dumb part!!!!!! the closest auto parts is ADVANCE AUTO, I stop there because the next closest auto parts is about 1/2 mile further..DUMB.DUMB!, I know better, but I figured,(HOW CAN THEY SCREW UP HANDING ME A REPLACEMENT PART) ..DUMB.DUMB!, then I COMPOUND the error by buying front and rear brakes...WHEN WILL I EVER LEARN?? I go to install the rear brakes...they are the wrong part and won,t fit,(STORE BRAND, LIFETIME GARUANTEE...MADE IN CHINA) so back to the store I go..receipt in hand...the hand me new intirely differant brakes AFTER argueing with me that I had the correct part..even after I insist the SPECIAL order me the DELCO brakes and they look totally differant (and fit once I get back to the shop)then I go to install the front brakes....now Im getting PISSED!!! they are very obviously the wrong part! are you seeing a pattern forming?.....remember, I still need the U-JOINTS so back to the store I go..receipt in hand...the hand me new intirely differant brakes AFTER argueing with me that I had the correct part..even after I insist the SPECIAL order me the DELCO brakes and they look totally differant (and fit once I get back to the shop) I pull the drive shaft and find BOTH U-JOINTS they sold me are WRONG!!!(they are very obviously the wrong part! are you seeing a pattern forming?..I AM!so back to the store I go..receipt in hand...for a refund... I go to a differant NAPA auto parts and SURPRIZE! they have the correct parts (made in AMERICA NO LESS ) I think Ive finally come to my sences, and I doubt ILL EVER go bact to ADVANCE AUTO unless I need AGGRAVATION and HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE, or feel a need to talk to under paid MORRONS

yeah! Ive always thought it was VERY STRANGE that a 383 with a 3.75" stroke is thought of as a low rpm tq engine, yet a 427 with a 3.76" stroke is thought of as a high rpm screamer???? both, correctly built can easily hit 7000-7500rpm plus

not my engine! this infos from a differant site, I just thought you guys might appreciate the info if it was I would have adjusted and tested the ignition curve/timing just to see the results

I thought you guys might like this, its a well designed 383 stroker that produces almost big block power...notice the 246cc port heads and the roller cam, while its not a street engine it could be run on pump gas 385 Cu.In. 10.5:1 cpr GM 4 Bolt "010" Block 4.04 Forged SRP pistons -16cc Eagle Cast 3.75" Crank Crower 6.0" 4340 I beam rods Crower Billet Steel ROLLER Cam 254/257 @ .050 .712 lift w/ 1.6 rockers 108* LSA installed at 104* Jesel Shaft Rockers 1.6:1 PSI Springs 230# closed, 620# open Super Victor Intake ported to match heads, Fel-Pro 1209 Wilson Manifolds 1.5" carb spacer Holley HP950 Carb, 79-81 jets, .055 air bleeds all the way around MSD Pro-Billet Distributor Custom Stepped headers 1.75 - 1 7/8 - 2" Iron Eagle Platinum 230cc (246cc after port work) Heads CNC'd by M2 Racing 320cfm @ .700 333 cfm @ .800 66cc chambers 42* total timing 110 octane on dyno will run 91 on street It's a custom billet steel ROLLER cam. Youll need to order one 282/286 adv 254/257 @ .050 .445 lift @ lobe .712 lift w/ 1.6:1 rockers 108* LSA 104* ICL Solid Roller 450tq 580hp http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldyno.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers2.jpg http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml

"btw, your links go to pages with garden furniture and generators." yeah the site won,t allow a dirrect link but I posted the part numbers, put those in and it comes up, while Id agree that $1100 for 22 cfm at 175psi is very good you could get that 22 cfm for less, and darn few tools use over 120psi __________________

ok you bought that new compressor and find it won,t keep up with the tools air flow demands,, now that makes you crazy, when you need to stop all the time, lets assume your tool requires a 22 cfm at 90PSI your current compressor maxs out at 10-11 psi at 90psi so your constantly needing to stop and let the pressure build back up, obviously you need a larger compressor...... example this compressor will fill your needs Model TF2912 http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&MID=9876&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp above is a compressor that supplies 25 cfm.......but at $1600, its hardly cheap, now this is where alittle thought goes a long way.. http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&MID=9876&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp heres a compressor for $429 Model CL7006016 that puts out 11 CFM, simple math says two of them put out 22 cfm, have a reserve of 120 cubic feet VS 80 for the more expensive single compressor and 14 hp vs lord knows what, plus if hooked to a distribution manifold Id bet the two compressors would cost less at $860 VS $1600 and work FAR better I don,t know about other shops but my last shop had two 80 galon 8 hp compressors that fed the same 1" air line that circled the shop with chucks located about every 10 feet,and they worked just fine, while its true that one compressor tended to kick in first 90% of the time they both kicked in after any significant pressure drop and there was no interferance I ever detected in over 10 years, with only minor repairs to both compressors. but we changed oil about once a month and drained the compressors tanks several TIMES EACH DAY as soon as money allows Ill have two again now they make dual compressors http://www.industrial-air-compressors.com/air-compressor-7.html but at over $3000 I think youll be certified INSANE to go that route vs the dual compressor route

threres a thread somewhere showing a 426 HEMI powered sprite http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm

flow bench & porting links you might use http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/ http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ http://www.rollingthunderz.com/rfs_formulas_intake.shtml http://www.4cycle.com/karting/html/flow_bench.html http://www.watermanracing.com/flow_bench.htm http://www.pontiacpower.com/FlowBench.htm http://www.performancetrends.com/pfa.htm http://www.performancetrends.com/ez_flow_system.htm http://www.maxracesoftware.com/flow_bench_pictures.htm http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/articles/flowbench/ http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/ http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/bench.htm http://www.tractorsport.com/cgi-bin/foru...4c78;act=SF;f=1 1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/plenum/ http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm

http://popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/buick/bigblock/0607em_buick_engine_build/ this might interest you

Ive got several auto darkening helmets, ranging from $400-$49 and I can,t believe that the HARBOR FREIGHT helmet works as well as it does, I use it a great deal,ESPECIALLY when welding , over head, simply because if it ever craps out , or gets to scared ,Im out $49, how can you ,NOT buy one!

ZEN LIKE STATE of higher consiousness ? two PERCOCETS and a 6 OZ brandy will get you there quick enought, but its not a good IDEA to use anything more complicated, than a BLANKET and PILLOW after that

Ive got(own) three corvettes currently 1985.1992,1996, and my BROTHER-IN-LAWS 1974 in the garage, thats all I can currently handle. unless..I find a really exceptionally clean 1990 or newer 300z dirt cheap with a busted / or missing drivetrain/engine........thats looking for a home...........

Ive WORKED ON REBUILT and SWAPPED ENGINES in MANY (Z) cars , both my brother-in-lays used to own them (with chevy V8 conversions) ive got a cousin in tampa who owned one for several yeas also, but IVE yet to own one myself, altho I had one for over a year that was given to me to drive & rebuild

your not even HOOKED YET, TRY owning 3 vettes and keeping them all in various states of modification,having 6 engines on engine stands in various stages of being built, having your BROTHER-IN-LAWS vette being rebuilt, in the same garage, WHILE completing the building of a $130,000 garage (36d x 74W x 16T) and being married with kids, and grand kids......your still learning guy! and barely into the hobby,but theres still hope! you can get SERIOUS, START WORKING ON THE CAR! youll know your (HOOKED) if you ever start skipping meals to save money for a new TIG welder and your thinking about loosing weight not because of health or looks but because theres nothing else on the car you can modify to make it faster