grumpyvette

$1500 is more than a deal for the total car in that condition you can more than likely sell enought interior and exterior body parts on EBAY or to the local body shops to make back a good percentage of the costs making the engine and trans you keep a great deal just a door or hood, or grill, seats, dash, console, windshield, etc, could easily net you $70-several hundred dollars EACH

a stock 400 and a 350 stroked to 383 have exactly the same stroke at 3.75" in fact the first 383s were simply 350s with a 400 crank installed in the block after a .030 bore and the 400 crank having the main journals cut down to the 350 bearing size, a 396 is just a slightly longer 3.875" stroke. personally Id build the 383 as the least expensive route to getting max power per dollar look over the combo above it will get you that 400 rear wheel hp, yes it will idle rought and have less than ideal traffic manors but floor the cars throttle and youll forget all that, and hang on with a big grin remember your trying to get the best results for the money spent, and have an impressive power level without going broke doing it

a few thoughts most CHEVY 400 blocks are in the area of 30-35 years old and were thin wall castings, rust and age have generally not been helpful, while the slightly larger bore is a plus in unshrouding the valves,it also leaves very little head gasket seal area between the bores, and the need to use steam holes drilled in the matching cylinder heads and the slightly less efficient cooling due to no water/coolant flow between the cylinders on the 400 blocks makes them slightly less desireable for street use. you can stroke/bore a 350 block to ABOUT a 396-401 displacement, (.030-.060 over bore and 3.875 stroke) the 400 blocks with the same over bore and stroke will give you ABOUT A 421-426 cubic inches of displacement yeah its true a 4.0" stroke crank can be fitted with alot of clearance work and a small base cam that the 3.875" stroke requires also, but the gains are not worth the extra work/expense in most cases. neither the stock 400 or 350 blocks are designed for more than a .060 over bore and some won,t work with more than .040 neither stock production block is designed for more than about 400hp, yeah, we are all aware of guys running more but they are all STRESSING the block past the design limits for long term use, yes they do comonly hold up, at least for awhile simply because an engine that potentially makes 500hp at lets say 6500rpm seldom sees that rpm range on a constant basis. aftermarket blocks are significantly stronger and thicker in the critical cylinder wall and main cap web areas. if your going to build an engine that exceeds about 500hp the aftermarket block is the route you should sellect. the best return on your investment (cost vs hp)is usually a 383 or 396 built on a 350 base block, yes a 400 base build generally produces slightly more power, it also generally costs more and has a higher component breakage potential. you can build a nice dependable, ECONOMICAL 450-500hp engine from a comon 383-396 displacement, useing good heads, a decent cam and reasonable compression, if you want significantly more power BUILD A BIG BLOCK,once you exceed about 500 hp the big block starts to cost a similar amount, past about 600hp the big blocks tend to cost less per hp yes a 383 will generally live with hp levels that far exceed the manufactures specs, at least for a limited time, but again plan your build and don,t expect stock components designed for under 5500rpm and 380hp levels to live at significantly higher stress levels EXAMPLE well, take notes, you want to install a 3.73-4.11 rear gear, and a 3000rpm stall converter or a manual trans 10.5:1 cpr 383 stroker kit, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku a set of the new AIR FLOW RESEARCH 195cc heads, http://airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php if your on a tighter budget, install this cam a crane #110921 cam, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&N=700+115&autoview=sku got a few more buck$ available? go with a killer solid roller http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00425&x=19&y=6 rockers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO%2D73600%2D16&N=700+400401+115&autoview=sku a HOLLEY intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&N=700+304703+115&autoview=sku CARB http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67200&N=700+115&autoview=sku headers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2224HKR&N=700+400390+4294908216+115&autoview=sku nitrous http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+400047+115&autoview=sku then add tires and GO KICK BUTT..youll have 500 hp BEFORE you hit the giggle gas and up to 700 on the giggle gas could one of you computer literate gentelmen post a DD-2000 on that combo with the new AFR flow numbers and the rest of the specs

tfreer85 thats EXACTLY the same welder as one of my three welders in the shop, I got mine at home depot on sale for $2350 and it was a STEAL, it does most of my shops welding that does not require me to borrow the TIG welder my neighbor has.and its been running without any major problems for about 18 months now thats a nice basic welder BTW I built a cart with (4 ) 10" swivel casters so I could easily move it around the shop and added a 20 ft ground,cable with clamp and a 40 ft welder cable and youll need an additional kit that costs about $900 to tig weld and its not going to do an excellent job on the TIG, but it will work as a TIG unit for most applications, (WITH THE ADDITIONAL KIT) I looked into that

keep an eye out for large V8s like pontiac,400-428,455s caddy,472,500s buick,455s mopar 440s the chevys will generally be picked over but youll ocassionally find a good deal if you look around

"You have one of these grumpy or are you just wishing?" Ive got three welders now, (no tig)but I can borrow my neighbors, so Im not in a bind I was planing on getting one , and still may, but my garage project is constantly edging up in costs due to my refuseale to use less than top quality parts/services/supplies its at about $140,000 so far, so it may be awhile yet I was looking at this also http://store.cyberweld.com/milsyn250dxt.html but the http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html is a better value, I do occasionally make custom aluminum parts , like EFI intakes, so its only a matter of time and my budget before I get a decent TIG UNIT BTW I ask around , locally and online and everyone thinks those units are good quality that has one, not one person gave a negative comment

BTW http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html read thru the links on this old thread http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN7ValvLash.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89720.htm http://www.boostandfuel.com/support/setting_valves.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/87998/index2.html http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/valveadj.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...rue#Post1178811 this may help

"How often will I need to adjust the valves with a solid flat tappet cam... " that depends on several factors but every 3-4 months will be about average durring the first 8-9 months, then it will drop back to about every 6-8 months if nothing is wearing or badly adjusted when you design an engine combo youll need to match components, now one of the factors youll want to look at is the reasonable max piston speeds, on a stock component combo that usually best to keep it under 4000 feet per MINUTE,(FPM) if your useing good quality ballanced/clearanced & forged , light weight components thats potentially raised to 4500 FPM.(providing all other components match, but in most cases youll never build a combo that actually reachs those rpms, youll just approach those limits since theres TWICE the stroke traveled in one RPM, its not that difficult to figgure it out, your 350 has approximately a 3.5" stroke, so 4000 x 12 =48000/7=6857 rpm, very deffinitely into solid lifter range, the 383 has a 3.75" stroke so your at approximately 6400rpm WITH STOCK COMPONENTS, use good forged parts and ballance the assembly and your at 7700 rpm for a 350 and 7200rpm with a 383 both well into solid lifter range. personally I like to limit FORGED/BALLANCED 350s to about 7100rpm and 383s to about 6700rpm, as theres no real power advantage above those limits if its used on a street/strip combo and youll be expecting to drive it in traffic think about that for a minute...... if you use a hydrolic cam your very likely to have valve control problems above 5800-6100rpm, on a 350 thats really hurting you , on a 383, its a p.i.t.a. but it can be worked around, but youll be giving up some power potential, enought so that youll easilly tell the differance now don,t get the idea I don,t use hydrolic cams in hot 383 builds, I do, like the one below, but even thou it says it pulls 7000rpm it won,t, it just reachs about 6300 rpm the solid lifter design like the 110921 makes more power and revs cleaner, pulls harder up to 7000rpm in the correctly assembled combo hydrolic http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1980&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=110741&partType=camshaft solid for manual trans http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1980&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=110921&partType=camshaft solid for auto trans http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1980&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=114681&partType=camshaft the wider LCA helps the auto, but hurts the low rpm tq , all those cams listed REQUIRE a 3.73-4.11 rear gear ratio, a manual trans or 3000rpm stall converter and at least a 10.5 cpr to get the best results

http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html

"Give us a good story grumpy. One where you don't have an excuse " OK! hell, Ive screwed up a few times, (heres stupid when I was young and dumb ) example at one time I had thought that all you really needed was a good deal more HP,than your competition, to win all the time.... we installed a 12.5:1 cpr 377 sbc with a radical flat tappet solid lifter cam and BROWNFIELD HEADS, dual quads, ETC. (I think thats what AFR was called back when dinosaurs roamed the pits, in my youth) we had built in a stripped out vega station wagon (similar to this below)for you guys too young to know what a vega is,we had installed a ford 9" rear 4.88:1 and a partial roll cage,tubbed the rear, and had a th400 with the original internals but a 4000rpm stall converter we were convinced the car would run decent times, as we had the weight down to about 2900lbs, as we knew the engine produced an easy 400 plus rear wheel hp, which was damn good for a 377 in the mid 1970s, short burn outs were impressive, we could pull the front tires (barely) and smoke the slicks at will, but had never had the car up over about 65mph the first night we took it too the track. we bet about $300 against a guy in a strait axle 55 chevy with a fiberglass tip-off front cap that we could kick his butt, in the 1/4, now back then, you knew the track officals by name as they were mostly fellow delinquents/car nuts... we get lined up, on the wednesday night run what you brought heads up racing meet at about 8pm, the money changes hands in the pits ....the lights go down, and the cars launch together,my time was in the high 12s, his deep in the 11s, our group felt like fools, we had never tested the engine on a full run...we found out at a cost of $300 what a stupid mistake that was... as we launched, I had been gaining on the 55 chevy, but at about 2/3rds track the cars engine had lost power and started missing badly, letting off the throttle and getting back into it prodiuced good power for an instant but then the missing returned.......later investigation showed the fuel pump/lines and regulator could just not quite supply the necessary fuel flow rate required, we had simply run out of fuel at 2/3rds track, simply doing a few practice runs and testing would have saved us $300 and we would not have looked like fools/novices. now naturally we wanted a rematch, but since we had pulled the guy by several car lengths up untill 1/2 track, he never did give us a rematch youve gotta be smart,keep in mind this was all high tech, cutting edge stuff back in the mid 70s and LEARNING to TEST things BEFORE YOU BET A WEEKS WAGES, HURT, but you learn that the hard way! BTW the car eventually ran consistent 11.09-10.980 times

"CAM: FLAT TAPPET HYDRAULIC it is" Ill try to make this clear because the message seems to have been getting distorted/twisted/confused...... while a flat tappet hydrolic cam can give good results, its a poor substitute for a correctly sellected solid lifter combo, in any engine combo that has the potential to exceed 6000rpm THE BEST PERFORMANCE VALUE IS A FLAT TAPPET SOLID LIFTER CAM, SIMPLY BECAUSE IT ALLOWS AT LEAST AN ADDITIONAL 1000RPM IN THE ENGINE RPM BAND PAST WHERE A HYDROLIC CAM ENTERS VALVE FLOAT IF PROPERLY SET UP, while learning to correctly set valve lash may seem to be a challange to the novice, the rythmic sound of a correctly adjusted solid lifter cam is truely music to the more skilled hobbyist or proffesional "UDHaroldNov 24th, 02, 03:41 AM I just got here, so I'll jump in, too.... Hydraulics are great for no-worry driving. It's not uncommon to set one, and drive it for 5 or 6 years. This IS their best feature. Solids make more power, everywhere. Some can be designed mild enough to go a year or more between lash settings, however, they do not make as much power as more aggressive cams do. Solids make more power because they have shorter seat durations, and faster valve openings, than hydraulics do. They also have more valve lift, generally. All this gives them more area under the lift curve, and the engine translates this into torque and horsepower. There are several good books, reasonably priced, that cover high-performance engines. I hope this helps. UDHarold" thats the long version, the short version is a correctly sellected solid lifter cam can provide BOTH a wider RPM RANGE and MORE AIRFLOW thru the ports you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557882...5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883...5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS

YOUR not stalling but youve got the same problem most of us have, LACK of FREELY DISPOSABLE INCOME, IM well aware of the problem, Ive been collecting parts for my bbc install for FOUR YEARS simply because other things like food and a morgage, a $150,000 garage project, ETC. If I had chosen to install a comon 450 hp 454 I could have done it 4 years ago, but Ive always felt that, if your going to do something, you may as well wait and do it exceptional well, so your satisfied with the results

CAM http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 LIFTERS http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml (pg 120) HEADS http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=78237&parentCategoryId=10187 Aluminum Cylinder Heads 200cc Intake ports 64cc Combustion Chambers 1.470'' Dual Valve Springs (125 lbs. Closed / 325 lbs. Open) .575'' Max lift 2.02''/1.60'' Valves Straight Plug Assembled 158-1021001 These cylinder heads are recommended for Pro Street applications with a 355-406 cid. engine operating from idle-6500 RPM with a flat tappet or hydraulic roller cam. Features: 200cc Intake Port 64cc Combustion Chambers 1.470'' Dual Valve Springs (125 lbs. Closed / 325 lbs. Open) .575'' Max lift 2.02''/1.60'' Valves Straight Plug 3/8'' Rocker Studs 5/16'' Guideplates rotating assemblys http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=19411&parentCategoryId=10759

adjusting the lash on a solid lifter cam a few time a year is certainly neither difficult or time consumeing, its an easily learned skill, but.... if your set on a hydrolic roller combo thats fine, we can easily build a killer engine with that in mind, but I still would point out that a 383 displacement has advantages and since your very likely to need to change the pistons in your current 350 to get the correct compression and the heads will be differant (OR ARE WE STICKING TO THE SAME EDELBROCKS?)the differance in cost will be only a few hundred dollars (WELL SPENT)..keep in mind reguardless of the engine displacement hydrolic roller cams don,t normally opperate correctly much above 5800-6000rpm without an expensive rev kit installed while a much cheaper solid flat tappet combo can easily pull 7000rpm will you swap heads? will you upgrade to a 383? are you set on a hydrolic roller cam? btw it won,t be an extra $500 it will be more once you get the MANDATORY springs, pushrods,lifters,cam retainers,locks,clearance work,(and youll be very likely to need minor machine work, and getting some decent roller rockers is advised

while I don,t agree with every thing I don,t think the ENDURE-X lifters from comp cams are the best out there,Ive seen a few failures, I have compared them side by side and I would go with the CROWERS or ISKYS. but Id still think that your best buy for the money is the flat tappet solids for your particular application, especially since your thinking of upgrading the heads and getting the dual quads, ETC. keep in mind that solid rollers are basically a race engine component, designed to be run hard , with far higher than stock lifts and spring pressures,but also to be inspected frequently and changed out at the first sign of impending failure. solid lifter can be run for years if installed/and maintained correctly with few problems, due to the far simplier design and much lower stress levels due mostly to much lower spring pressures and milder ramp rates with lower lifts

SURE, anyone that says he never lost a race either lies about it or seldom plays games, sure I get beat a times, driving my corvettes. EXAMPLE I was sitting at a red light out in the sticks at 2 am when this x8 jag pulls up next to me, the first night I had the 250 hp nitrous system,installed on my full roller 11:1 cpr :whip: 383, he takes off and Im thinking youve got to be kidding me, I easily pull along side without even useing the nitrous,hell, I don,t even hit 5500rpm to pass him, Im looking for my first victim and theres NO ONE ELSE AROUND, I get stupid and at 35-40 mph I think, lets embarass jerk, I flip the arming switch and push the button, Im instantly two car lengths ahead but theres an extreemely loud noise from the rear, I shut off, he zips bye and I pull over to find my half shaft with a busted u-joint,(time to call my younger son, use his the sons,truck,and get trailer home) seems stock u-joints and 700 ft lbs of nitrous induced tq don,t play well together , that the first but hardly the last time a u-joint didn,t like nitrous

am I the only one, thinking this is being sold because the necessary extra parts are either far to expensive or not available at all? keep in mind that the heads were VERY LIMITED PRODUCTION, ARE OUT OF PRODUCTION,and cost $3500 plus valves and springs (easily $1000 more) plus (notice $1200) rockers and offset roller lifter cost similar) youll easily have $6000 or more in running heads http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=29850&searchItemId=126765 just the ofset rockers and lifter could cost you several thousand, more and Im thinking ,a small block head with a 319cc port size is not likely to be usable at less than about a 450 displacement our under 5500rpm then, the thought comes to mind, AIR FLOW RESEARCH BIG BLOCK HEADS flow similar numbers but with slightly larger ports and have the advantage of both larger valves and a splayed valve layout, and a larger bore size, so I doubt the flow numbers are at the standard 28" vacume reading or taken with a 4.25" bore fixture which is about max on a sbc aftermarket block

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=1255813&Searchpage=1&Main=1230604&Words=110921+grumpyvette&topic=&Search=true#Post1255813 I think youll get some usefull info reading thru this thread keep in mind that if you built a similar dual quad 383 displacement engine combo with similar components youll easilly surpass his hp levels, as always the more important parts in the combo are DISPLACEMENT,(the more the better) HEADS,(it REALLY PAYS TO GET BETTER HEADS) think BRODIX,TRICKFLOW,AFR CAM,(MUST MATCH both rear gear,ratio stall speed,and cpr) COMPRESSION RATIO(MUST MATCH, TRY FOR 10.2-10.5:1 with that cam, 10.5:1 is about ideal)

a 3000 stall converter will work similar to a stock converter in the respect that at lower rpms and loads your car still acts similar to the stock converter, yes theres slightly more slippage but you won,t generally have problems,in fact this helps a great deal with the wilder cam, durration, yet once you increase the loads and rate of engine accelleration the differance is amazing. any roller cam and associated valve train components (lifters,springs,pushrods,ETC.) is going to cost you a minimum of about $700 MORE than a flat tappet cam, a SOLID LIFTER FLAT TAPPET cam will both cost far less and work with fewer problems on the street,the much lower valve spring pressures and much lighter weight lifters will last longer in the enviorment where youll be driving in traffic on occasion or cruising at 2500-3000 rpm where the oil flow to the lifters is just not ideal for a solid roller with aggresive lobes and valve spring pressures, a hydrolic roller set up will cost even more and limits you to about 5800rpm without extra bvalve train components like a rev kit that adds almost $700 MORE to the cost, trust me here a flat tappet solid lifter cam is the route you should take if your trying to get the best results for the money, perameters are you going to build it to the close to ideal specs or are you insistant on using your current heads, low cpr 350 displacement, and stall speed on the converter heres what ID suggest as a killer dual quad combo first build a 383 with a ballanced/ FORGED 10.5:1 cpr and use a 3000rpm stall converter and that 3.90:1 rear gearing let me know if your willing to do that and use better heads OR if your insistant on useing your current heads, as the cam sellected will differ

"you can get a cam ground directly from comp, but the people you will talk with will be idiots." I could have sworn I already said that exact thing in a slightly more politically correct way........ "I don,t use COMP CAMS while thier products may be ok they have given me bad advice frequently and by a huge margin the worst tech support in the industry"

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DCEDL302&N=700+115&autoview=sku since your looking to go dual quads....this is a good deal, and personally Id have sellected this for your application

dual quads looks good and performs just fine,if your looking to get more exotic...... http://www.camaro-untoldsecrets.com/articles/crossram.htm the problem is NOT tuning the dual quads, that can be done very easily with experiance , the reason many low rise dual quad systems don,t make the potential peak power is the RUNNER length, twisting routes,and differant runner lengths/ design and cross sectional area of the intake designs, like this which,while they work great in the mid rpm ranges don,t produce peak power tends to restrict/break up, air flow and the ram effect that pacts the cylinders at high rpms and effect flow rate changes beween cylinders compared to a single plane design with its LONGER and STRAITER ports BUT THIER ARE EXCEPTIONS that work reasonable well! like the cross ram intakes above! read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm now THATS not true on the better TUNNEL RAM intake designs BUT hood clearance and thier designed effective rpm range cause them to be less than IDEAL on the average street car the reason DUAL QUADS were popular was that large flow CFM single 4 barrel carbs were not available,at that time,HOLLEY had not yet produced the DOMINATOR carbs, that could flow 1250 CFM,if your engine needed 850cfm-1200 PLUS cfm, in the early 60s you were either using a DUAL quad or similar multi carb system or you were NOT getting the flow rates you needed,or you were stuck with QUADRAJETS, or the smaller HOLLEYS in most cases and yes your correct two smaller carbs with eight throttle bores can and do allow a very precise high velocity port flow when properly set up,Ive had several engines running dual quads run VERY respectable times in the low 10s, in a STREED DRIVEN CARs once SLICKS and OPEN headers were used at the track maybe this will help, the CORRECT 4 two barrels (FOUR DUCES)makes a GREAT COMBO!! http://www.inglese.com/tech.htm http://66.216.94.142/product.asp?0=0&1=0&3=1245 http://66.216.94.142/product.asp?0=318&1=328&3=1244 http://www.inglese.com/price/page5of6.htm#weberman http://www.piercemanifolds.com/hotrodproducts.htm http://www.geneberg.com/58ida.htm http://www.geersengineering.com/Terminator%20II's.htm K9502 - 4 x 48 IDA Down Draught Webers K9502 manifold with Cermakrome coating K350 & K351 - 4 x IDF Down Draught Webers K352 - 4 x 45DCOE Side draught Webers K352-50 - 4 x 50DCO Side draught Webers INGLESE CHEVROLET V8 SYSTEMS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part No. System Description Price IA1114H S/B, IDF, 44mm Carbs $2,995.00 IA1118H S/B, IDF, 48mm Carbs $3,395.00 IA1018H S/B, IDA, 48mm Carbs $4,495.00 IA1245H S/B, DCOE,45mm Carbs. "Moon" Crossram $4,450.00 Includes: 4 x 44 IDF Carbs Stainless steel braided Fuel Lines Adjustable linkage Intake Manifold 2 1/2 Stacks Comes Assembled $1995.95 http://www.injector.net/Weber/wildv8.asp this has got to be a huge hp improvement over a cfi setup .they normally have a 20hp advantage over a well set up 4 barrel carb at peak and more torque and throttle responce at all rpm ranges WHILE IVE WORKED ON AND LOVE WEBER EQUIPED VETTES I DON,T HAVE A RECORD OF THE JET SIZE USED

500 caddy Cadillac V8 472-500 625lb with aluminum intake your down to about 605lbs 350 chevy Chevy small block V8 575 (generic for '60s-'70s motors) Chevy small block V8 535 (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake) Chevy big block V8 685 Mark IV (all iron) you can drop 80 lbs to about 605 lbs with aluminum heads,intake and water pump theres not enought differance to worry about at about 30-100 lbs (depends on config) the distributor on the caddys in the front so it can be seated several inches more to the rear in the engine compartment, weight distribution might even be better

just some info, not ALL 400 blocks have three freeze plugs per side and not ALL blocks with three freeze plugs are 4 bolt blocks there ARE frequent exceptions 3951509....400...70-71...4 3951509....400...74-80...2 3951511....400...70-73...4...Some replacement blocks had 2-bolt main caps youll need to drill steam holes in heads not orriginally mated to the factory 400 block if you run on the street, you can use the head gaskets as a partial guide Steam holes are recommended for all 400 block applications. Use a 400 gasket as a template and drill the three holes nearest the spark plug side of the head straight down, the other three which are very near the head bolt holes should be drilled at a 30 degree angle away from the bolt hole. The center hole will intersect water about 1" down and the two outboard holes to a depth of 2 1/4". Use a 1/8 drill. http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm http://john.patblair.com/2c42o2.html