grumpyvette

http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/Luke-schreier/unzip/Tension%20and%20Compression%20in%20Connecting%20Rods%20VI.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm http://www.carrilloind.com/pdfs/10777_eprint.pdf http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/choosing_the_right_connecting_rods/

let us know how they work out?, after youve installed them and run them for awhile! FIT? CLEARANCE? NOISE? FUNCTION? DURABILITY? EASE OF ADJUSTMENT? ETC.

ive never seen those in person or known anyone useing them, but Id suspect its cheaply made. in china,.....that being said .....id probably invest the $300, on a set to find out PROVIDED I was very sure they would fit the heads I was useing after EXTENSIVE questioning of the seller and ID pass on them if he would not answer the questions in detail, keep in mind most roller rockers are a high stress, disposable, item designed to be replaced or rebuilt on a regular basis, that require a mandatory and frequent check of the condition of the bearings, clearances, alignment, geometry, ETC. theres a REASON that GOOD shaft mount roller rockers cost alot and that the fact they are designed to work under extreme stress, and use close tollerances and top quality materials, which ID SERIOUSLY doubt are in use on those rockers, but there are a few really good deals in the cheap imported parts, so it may be worth spending/wasting $300 to find out?? yet ID also keep in mind that ARP sells rocker studs that the chinese sell copys of, looking at them they apear similar, but in use the chinese copys fail far more frequently, your rarely if EVER going to get top quality parts,at bargin basement prices, simply because quality costs a good deal to produce while junk is far less expensive

get all the sleep you can NOW! the first few months with a new kid won,t leave you much sleep TRUST ME!

280Z28 youve got to think longer range and more punch.. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/1167/edora.html I love this, consistantly hit within 100-600 yards at a target up to 29 MILES AWAY......since it blows a decent size hole I doubt the accuracy matters that much less range, better accuracy and way more PUNCH on impact http://www.vce.com/grable.html btw I prefer this to carry

notice how much smaller the axle in the comp roller lifter is than the isky next to it

running a cast core roller cam on the street with more than MINIMAL spring pressures IS JUST asking for valve train problems,heres a comp cams grind on a cast core failure,(BELOW) now ANY brand can fail....but IVE had few (NONE) problems with CRANE,CROWER,ISKY components, and that what I usually use I think youll find the CRANE/ISKY/CROWER parts significantly better made. you may also want to do what I do on most blocks... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA%2D5003&N=700+4294925139+400114+1005+115&autoview=sku use this tool to significantly increase the oil flow on the cam lobes (look on page 334) http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/330-343.pdf

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html buy and both watch the CD, and read thru the info (ABOVE) then buy and read these HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines youll be so far ahead of most first time builders, its amazing, MONEY VERY WELL SPENT, you won,t believe the info they contain then buy this (below) so you don,t get hurt durring the engine build and start asking questions on the site http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4420 BTW hes correct,the dyno software is a huge help http://www.compperformancegroupstores.co...;Category_Code= cam sellection software http://www.virtualengine2000.com/DynoOverview.htm virtual dyno software BTW this thread below, may give you some very useful info http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608

youll generally need a richer mix and a longer accellerator pump shot/voluum simply because the engines pumping a good deal more airflow, and youll want to get the F/A mix ratio in the 12.7-13.1:1 range

if your carefull you can get decent results out of a set of PORTED cast stock pontiac heads , youll need to do the typical mods like opening up the ports to the gaskets and blending the combustion chamber edges to the head gaskets and narrowing the valve stem boss,ETC. http://www.pontiacpower.org/ultimateflow.htm http://www.pontiacs.org/modules.php?name=headchart (they won,t work nearly as well as the edelbrocks) BUT YOU CAN REACH THAT 400HP LEVEL. THE INTAKE AND BETTER CONNECTING RODS ARE JUST ABOUT MANDATORY, THE STOCK INTAKE IS RESTRICTIVE AND THE STOCK RODS ARE WEAK good replacement rods are cheap and easily twice as strong as stock rods http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/455-400-3...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4340-Pont...sspagenameZWDVW this intake is very noticably less restrictive http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2957&N=115&autoview=sku getting the compression up to 10.0-10.5:1 and useing the better rods cam and intake makes a VERY noticable improvement, pontiac respond to high compression,good intakes and the combo of headers and cam matched to that higher cpr...they generally WON,T MAKE good power over about 6000rpm-6500rpm and pushing stock rods over 5800rpm is a good way to have a large oil leak where the block failed to stop the rods exit trajectory

personally I like PONTIACS a good deal, youll need to understand a few things that differ fron the chevy engine but 400hp from a 350-400 pontiac is FAR from difficult to reach. if your SERIOUS youll want better connecting rods and aftermarket cylinder heads http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/98359/ http://www.dapa.org/jhpages/pontiac-cams.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/blockID.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/cranks.htm http://www.pontiacs.org/ http://www.krepower.com/ http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/ http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/ http://www.classicfirebird.com/hand/hand.html look over all the info and youll have a good base to start from... I generally use EDELBROCK heads #60599 (2) thier single plane Victor Pontiac #2957 intake and a cam in the 235-240 intake durration range http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...rtType=camshaft with about 10.5:1 cpr, yes youll need the rear gear (3.5:1-4.11:1)and tq converter to match (3000rpm) or a manual trans P.S. >>>> Here is some Pontiac reference data you may find useful...... http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/v8displace..html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camselect.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rockers.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camquickref.html http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/pontiacengineid/pontengid1.html http://www.bassettracing.cz28.com/custom3.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/bloccast.htm http://www.pontiacpower.com/Crank4250.htm http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/heads.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headpont.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/72278/index10.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/pontiac/0209PHREMPontiac/ http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/2.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/3.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/4.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/5.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/6.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/10.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camquickref.html http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/camshafts.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/cams_pontiac.html http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/carb2.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/carbs.htm http://www.pontiactripower.com/ http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0302_SRTriII/ http://www.ramairrestoration.com/ http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4716958DD198651-Headers-Accy.aspx http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/man_pont.html

theres a distinct lack of appreciation of good sarcastic/humour on this thread

ok, why not a twin turbo, intercooled, methanol fueled, nitrous assisted ,572cubic inch displacement, big block ? (BEST OF BOTH WORLDS) can,t you just hear your wallet screaming in agony now??

looks and sounds like a well thought thru and assembled (Z)

I think some guys are missing the point, when setting up the car, its NOT just the hp....its the HP to WEIGHT RATIO and how effectively you can apply it to the pavement, its having good brakes, good traction, and being in control, think thru ALL the components and how they work as a system EXAMPLE 9 lbs per hp and up is seldom fun to drive or responsive 8 lbs per hp, makes a nice street performance car 7 lbs per hp makes an exceptionally nice and responsive street car 6 lbs per hp makes a nice predictable race car, or an exceptional street car 5 lbs per hp or less makes an exceptionally nice and responsive race car http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/dtipsaerodynamics.html yes you DO NEED a few things like a roll cage, blow proof bell houseing and excellent brakes, once you get into a serious car combo

well you could get crazy and put it on the little plastic card, have it installed , tear up your drive train,sit around wondering how to build a roll cage and drive train to work with that 700-1100 ft lbs of torque once the nitrous systems installed,and make exorbidant payments for the rest of the decade..PLUS

THOSE ALL ALUMINUM 572s go for about $15,700 DELIVERED TO YOUR LOCAL AREA FREIGHT DEPOT, you could build it yourself only slightly cheaper, and Id bet 90% of the guys would be far ahead both in cost and time buying the crate engine the block costs about $5000 heads about $3000 rotating assembly about $2500 cam, valve & train accessories /misc parts necessary about $2000 intake about $400 oil system/gaskets about $1000 carb about $1000 so your just not saving a great deal building it yourself BTW ask several of the twin turbo guys what they have invested in getting to 700-900hp and youll soon see how that aluminum big blocks just not all that expensive in comparison to building a intercooled twin turbo combo making similar power

duplicate

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/cranksha.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm

http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/108052.htm how about an all aluminum 572 bbc?? 700hp/700ft lbs in an engine that weights less than an iron sbc?? and thats well before adding a mild dose of nitrous that could easily jump the power noticably THOSE ALL ALUMINUM 572s go for about $15,700 DELIVERED TO YOUR LOCAL AREA FREIGHT DEPOT

DD-2000 is much more accurate than most people give it credit for in finding potential trends and PEAK hp numbers GIVEN GOOD DATA, it is far less accurate on predicting the TQ CURVE (especially at low rpms) ITS a VERY GOOD TOOL, and its fast and easy to use which is a huge plus) but not nearly as accurate as some of the more expensive software dyno programs at predicting the tq curve just as an example my 383 was predicted at 490hp/490 tq real numbers were 470hp/505 tq, (flywheel) well withing the error zone youll expect

trustworthy= I get the parts they advertize at the price they advertize, in a timely manor, in good condition, I don,t expect them to actiually work on anything correctly

need your help and guideance gentelmen , things,on, prices sellection, and trust worthy dealers change rapidly the time is getting close to replace the tires and rims on my 2003 avalanche, where do you get a good package deal on chrome plated aluminum wheels (MAGS WHEELS)THAT FIT CORRECTLY for a decent price, SUGGESTIONS & links NEEDED the current tires are size 265/70r17 and Id like similar or only one size larger IF they fit without problems, this is strictly my parts chaser/highway truck , with zero off road use

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115537

while its very complete and a really good source of instruction especially for guys how have built a limited number of engines it doesn,t get into alot of the finer points like how to hone,the cylinders correctly, what grits to use,how to gap rings correctly for varied applications, how to check most of the clearances, how to set up the oil returns and windage screen, how to dial in a cam, and dozens of other important factors, that make the differance between a good or a great engine the assembly check list -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- be sure you check clearances carefully, a mistake can and will damage the engine, DON,T GUESS most people tend to tell me Im wrong about that untill they try it both ways yeah the differance is usually minor but five to 10 thousands differance is not rare if the parts are clean and dry versus sprayed with an oil mist first check to make sure that you are measureing correctly, many times the valve actual has more clearance in the flycut clearance notches,or only the very edge of the valves head and the edge of the notch are close and very minor cutting with a tool fitted in a valve guide will clear the problem and the valve has more clearance than measurements taken from the pistons upper surfaces, and that the head gasket thickness and valve train geometry are correct, check if changing the cam retard/advance or installed possition can be changed to increase the clearance to 0.100 minimum on both the intake and exhaust valves (MOST LIKELY TO WORK WITH THE LEAST PROBLEMS) add a thicker head gasket? ( BUT THAT TENDS TO RUIN QUENCH AND DOES NOT TEND TO BE A GREAT CHOICE ON MOST ENGINES) look over the isky site they and MANY OTHER HOD ROD TOOL SUPPLY SHOPS SELL TOOLS THAT APPEAR TO BE EXTRA LONG STEM VALVES WITH CUTTERS ATTACHED TO FIX THAT PROBLEM http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/PAGE17.pdf heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build heads are the pushrods perfectly strait? do the pushrods flow oil? rocker studs/guides torqued correctly? do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use? have the heads been pocket ported? combustion chambers unshrouded? intake ports gasket matched" are the valve guides cut to the correct length? are the heads pocket ported? is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct? are the valve guide oil seals installed? is there valve spring seats installed? inner damper springs installed? spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.) oil return holes cleaned of casting flash? were steam holes in heads necessary? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ? retainer to valve guide clearances? spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure? valve lash/preload ? are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia. keeper the correct angle? style? size? valve seats the correct angles? valves back cut? valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam. strait? rockers the correct ratio? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? were the heads milled? did the head gasket overlap the bore? what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct! chambers CC,ed port work..(some steps optional) (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias block is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/ is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/ is the pick-up brazed to the pump body? has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension? is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears) has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly? has the block been aline honed? is the crank strait? are the damper install keyway and threads ok? counter weights clearanced? MAGNAFLUXED? OIL PASSAGES CLEANED? GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY? has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked? piston to valve clearances checked? piston to bore clearances? TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? what were the piston ring to slot clearances? RING GAPS? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in? were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? total cam lift and remaining clearanceS? WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN? main bearing clearances? what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?) head gasket to coolent holes checked? magnets installed? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?) did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance?? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? correct bearing crush? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? was the distributor oil flow mod done? was the correct style distributor gear used? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? was the engine ballanced? cam button installed?, and lock plate installed? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed? were the rods checked for length? is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down? did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots) does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow? were the lifter bores checked? cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked? does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? is the deck square/level? whats the cross hatch hone angle? what grit hone was used? is it correct for the rings used? are all the threads clean/clear? brass freeze plugs installed? block painted? a few things to check are the connecting rods installed with the beveled edge facing out on each pair with the bearing installed with the bevel facing out on both the lower and upper rod bearings also? are you using beveled bearing shells that match the cranks throw bevels? what are the bearing clearances? (are they the same checking at 90.120.160 degrees from the first measurement?} what are the connecting rod side clearances? is the crank strait? has it been turned undersize? if so...on ALL the rods? on ALL the mains? or on ALL the BEARINGS JOURNALS OR ONLY SOME? whats the TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? is the piston side clearance correct? are the pistons installed in the correct cylinders? (intake and exhaust notches correctly located to match the cylinder head) are you POSSITIVE each main cap is in the correct location and FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION? did you use MOLY assembly lube? did you check EACH INDIVIDUAL RING ON EACH PISTON for ring gap clearance,AND that the rings fit the piston ring slots correctly? are any rings installed in the wrong ring slots (2nd ring in top slot ETC,)or upside down do the rings have back clearance? were the cylinders CORRECTLY HONED? is the cam drive binding? does the crank contact the windage screen? does the dipstick tube or dip stick touch the crank at any point? is the oil pump /cam gear binding? did you check that the oil pump mounting bolt does NOT contact the back surface of the rear main BEARING under the main cap? is the block warped, checked carefully?,was it line honed? are the piston pins centered? do the pistons rotate thru an arc with little resistance? are there any lock pins, spirolocs, tru-arcs contacting the cylinder walls? are you sure the bearing shells are installed correctly and the locating tabs are in the correct slots? are they the correct bearings for the application? or did you just assume the part guy knew what he was doing? did you MEASURE or GUESS, did you at least use Plastigauge and a torqure wrench? did you check EACH AND EVERY journal for tapper and roundness did you get the rotateing assembly ballanced???