grumpyvette

there are several tricks & tools that make installing plugs easier, one trick to installing/starting the threads is to slip a plug neck firmly into a 18" section of fuel line, this allows the plug to be easily dirrected into place,spun and aligned in a tight place . gap them correctly, a .043 is about correct for most applications and don,t forget the ANTISEEZE on the threads cutting a standard socket to shorter length helps at times http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94011 http://www.rshongkong.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&D=Sidewinder%20Speedwrench&Ntt=Sidewinder%20Speedwrench&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntx=mode%20matchany&N=0&Nty=1&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2483097&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0140285926.1159188189@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccjaddilkjdlmmcefeceefdffhdhif.0&cacheID=hk01netscape&Nr=avl:hk01 http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdgear02.html#9520 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705

why build a 383? the answer is simply COST PER HP sure yyou can build a killer 15 degree head 454 that makes 800 hp if youve got the cash, but you can build a 383 that will give you a low 11 second or high ten second car for less THAN HALF of the expence the larger engine would cost,that combo will beat about 95% of the street driven cars, why pay two to four times as much to beat MOST but not all the other cars on the track,youll spend a good deal more and get less enjoyment from the car. look, I had a corvette that ran consistant 10.25-29 at 135 mph,it was a TOTAL P.I.T.A. on the street, required a full roll cage and wheelie bars and was a cop magnet......you lost most of the enjoyment in owning the car because the only place you could drive vwas the track, and you needed to constantly deal with anal tech inspectors, you got two maybe three runs per night and generally spent 99% of your time doing tune repair and upgrade mods, it was a $$%%^ MONEY PIT! my current corvette is slightly slower (high 11s -very low 12s) but at least I get to drive it on the street, I don,t need a full roll cage and I have a useable car....I can beat about 80% of the cars, ITS a GRIN to drive..........as always THINK IT THRU

MIKE! http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article016/A16-P1.htm http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/101011.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcafhp.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1527608/an/0/page/0#Post1527608 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1137028/an/0/page/0#Post1137028 some stuff you need

try this 10.5:1 cpr 383 stroker kit, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku a set of the new AIR FLOW RESEARCH 195cc heads, http://airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php a crane #110921 cam, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&N=700+115&autoview=sku rockers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO%2D73600%2D16&N=700+400401+115&autoview=sku a HOLLEY intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&N=700+304703+115&autoview=sku CARB http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67200&N=700+115&autoview=sku headers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2224HKR&N=700+400390+4294908216+115&autoview=sku nitrous http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+400047+115&autoview=sku then add tires and GO KICK BUTT..youll have 500 hp BEFORE you hit the giggle gas and up to 700 on the giggle gas

build the damn 383, youll be well over 500hp and approching obcene on nitrous,the cost and potential problems will be significantly lower, the blocks cheaper, the head gasket seals better ,and youll get into much less expensive parts,clearancing and machine work costs EXAMPLE well, take notes, you want to install a 3.73-4.11 rear gear, and a 3000rpm stall converter or a manual trans 10.5:1 cpr 383 stroker kit, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku a set of the new AIR FLOW RESEARCH 195cc heads, http://airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php if your on a tighter budget, install this cam a crane #110921 cam, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&N=700+115&autoview=sku got a few more buck$ available? go with a killer solid roller http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00425&x=19&y=6 rockers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO%2D73600%2D16&N=700+400401+115&autoview=sku a HOLLEY intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&N=700+304703+115&autoview=sku CARB http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67200&N=700+115&autoview=sku headers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2224HKR&N=700+400390+4294908216+115&autoview=sku nitrous http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+400047+115&autoview=sku then add tires and GO KICK BUTT..youll have 500 hp BEFORE you hit the giggle gas and up to 700 on the giggle gas If a very similar setup can put a camaro thats significantly heavier into the 10s a Z will be easy

http://www.staginglight.com/guide/iea.html this may help

The major change on the good quality retro fit roller cams are the lobe design and the lifters used, the timing set is the same or at least can be,the retro hydrolic roller cams like CRANE and CROWER sell are basically a drop in and run deal, the only changes are the addition, of a cam button becomes mandatory and the pushrods are a differant length, now be aware that some cams come with a steel vs cast steel gear and require the use of a differant distrib gear. keep in mind that youll want to use the matching springs and check the clearances, and that roller rockers are almost mandatory with the faster ramp accelleration rates and higher lifts. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, and buy the complete KIT,springs,roller lifters,retainers ETC. if you don,t buy all components from ONE manufacturer they will ALWAYS blame the MIS-MATCHED components for any problems and void the warranty http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm

launching, tq curve,traction now this is in responce to a corvette related question but much of it applies to you gentelmen as well,never reduce the effectiveness of one system to make up for the failure in a second are, maximize BOTH AREAS, and learn to DRIVE in a manor that compensates for the weaker area,EXAMPLE, if you maximize power to the rear wheels and youve done all you can for traction, your driving style can compensate for the differance http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto these calculators may help a good deal, personally ID sellect the 3.73:1 only because a 3.90:1-4.11 is not available,for the rear without extensive mods,a serious engine will require a matching drive train and stall speed or fly wheel weight and the skill to use both effectively on launcing the car, that generally means a 2800rpm-3500rpm stall speed converter, or a 30 lb-40 lb fly wheel to retail the rpms with zero bogging as you launch,keep in mind youll want the engine rpm band to fall where the engine makes its best power thru the vast majority of its time and you don,t want to be over reving the engine in the lights, ok lets pick a case where you go thru the lights at about 120mph, measure your tire dia. plug in the info and keep in mind that final drive ratio the trans has and your engines realistic peak rpm. lets assume in this case youve got a 700R4 with its OD top gear 0.7:1 ratio and a 25.5" tire and youll want to be pulling 6000rpm thru the lights at the end of the 1/4 , youll soon see what Im refering to, then look at the same combo at 70mph in OD gear and your rpm range, it should be fairly clear that youll want speeper gear ratios if performance is the main objective, getting traction is a differant part of the equation, but maximizing the available power curve to the rear axle is the first concern, getting it to the pavement requires suspension and tire changes, but it can be done! don,t let the guys that can,t get traction tell you you need a taller gear, what you need is max power matched to max traction,cutting back on one to ease failures in the other area is counter productive, if you can,t lift the front tires for at least a few feet on launches, traction & suspension mods & better tires not a gear reduction are the problem area __________________ retired engineer ,engine builder, 1985/92/96 vettes(all modifyied

Tim240z THANKS FOR POSTING THIS, I DON,T EVEN OWN ONE and I APPRECIATE THE INFO

now Ive slowed down and Im pathetic averaging between,0.18- 0.200 seconds on raw reacion speeds but the game helps concentration and reaction times so play and youll get better on the tree at the track, or if your nearly hopeless youll need alot of practice. cutting close to a consistant .500 light is very possiable, if you practice this tests raw reaction speed http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/humanbody/sleep/sheep/reaction_version5.swf these allow you to practice on the tree, I can generally cut a .500-.530 light,on the sportsmans tree, see what you can do? http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html http://mariettascientific.com/boss/nhratree/ and yeah, anyone can OCCASIONALLY cut good lights, whats the average on TEN LIGHTS and REMEMBER, DON,T REDLIGHT YOU LOOSE

most of your engines hp potentials in the heads and cam combo so thats where the moneys spent,get the compression ratio close to 10.5:1 and the quench/squish distance close to .040, that may require decking the block or new pistons , which is a good idea if your not running FORGED now, as qustions about the combustion chamber options at brodix, http://www.brodix.com/ you could get cheap, but youll have a hard time beating the power Basic kit $1770 PART #158-9991007 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=26161 carb $499 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=28293&searchItemId=320561 Brodix Race Rite 180 Straight Plug Combo 158-9991007 Kit Includes: • Complete Race Rite Heads • Intake • Valve Covers • Head Gaskets • Intake Gaskets • Exhaust Gaskets • Carburetor Gaskets • Valve Cover Gaskets • Head Bolts & Washers • Intake Bolts • Spark Plugs • Brodix Hat Lifters $119 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL cam $119 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ERS%2DE110721&N=700+4294925232+4294924497+400247+115&autoview=sku http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf rockers $299 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ERS%2DE928003&N=700+4294925232+4294924497+400247+4294839887+115&autoview=sku your looking at a basic kick butt street combo once you add the headers youll need on that car, with its manual trans, Id strongly suggest a 3.73-4.11 rear gear, its the LITTLE STUFF THAT ADDS UP OR GETS IGNORED so I tried to use a KIT that includes most of that stuff totals at $2808, youll need shorty headers , and a non-restrictive exhaust so, your looking at about $3000, but all good quality matched parts that will allow you to BUZZ that 327...it will idle with a pronounced lope and have less than ideal street manors but launch at 2800rpm and hold on , it will zip up to about 6500 almost faster than you can shift, with a 4.11:1 rear gear and slicks/suspension personally Id go with a fairly heavy 30 lb steel flywheel and blow proof clutch and bellhousing many 327s were small rod journals so if you need connecting rods BE SURE you order the correct length/dia rod If you need to get into the short block,youll want to assemble the short block with getting a 10.3-10.5:1 cpr and a set of 6" aftermarket rods and keep the quench/squish at about .040 pistons http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=378 rods http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...ategoryId=10239

ok, whats the cars weight and rear gear ratio, and tire dia.? thats important for matching the components,do you currently have a low restriction exhaust and headers,what parts do you currently have? lets assume you want the most power available fom a limited budget , and let me know if your willing to go the stroker route or want to stay with the 327 displacement? Ill ASSUME your wanting to use the basic 327 displacement unless your telling me differant? and give me some idea as to a realistic budget? you can do a whole lot more with $2000-$3000 than $500-$700 so give me a clue as to what we are working with here?

if you say you don,t make mistakes on occasion it means your rarely DOING ANYTHING and even RARER, that your doing something NEW! we all make those really dumb moves OCCASIONALLY..... now I won,t admit it but some (GUY) once left the lights on in his corvette till the battery died, and it took easily 10 minutes to figure out why the car would not turn over the next morning....hell it ran fine when I parked it!....so your not alone

first< IM NO EXPERT, BUT I CAN STICK STUFF TOGETHER THAT WON,T BREAK, I feel humble looking a the skills some of you guys have. I started welding with a oxy-acetolene torch back in the late 1960s and altho I use stick,mig,and oxy-acetolene TIG is by far the best system in my opinion when the QUALITY of the welds far exceeds the need for speed/quantity, and its more like oxy-acetolene in that you control the heat,and feed rates its both more precise and more controlable in that both the heat and material feed rates are instantly controlable, thats not a big deal on some projects but it makes a world of differance on others the only thing I see many guys screw up on is that the price of the equipment tends make some guys sellect the lower quality and lower output welders, now what your welding comes into this of course but its fustrating to use a p.o.S, once youve used a top of the line machine. heres three that work ok, but ask questions, you don,t want to spend more than you need too or get a P.O.S. for your particular application http://www.weldingdirect.com/tig252helsys.html http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html http://store.cyberweld.com/milsyn250dxt.html BTW the water cooled torch with the hand control is so much easier to use under odd angles and under the car its amazing vs the air cool torch with the foot control thats basicly fine for the bench but a P.I.T.A, under the car while you new guys to welding may be shocked silly at a tool that costs $3000-$5000, it PAYS for itself many times over if you do alot of car stuff like engine swaps, roll cages,suspension work etc. heres an old post that cover much of the info, LOOK THRU THE LINKS http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk6.html TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas Welding) basically youve got a controlable electric arc in a gas shield that you use similar to a oxy-acetolene flame to melt the material and feed a rod of similar material to flow and join the peices This process is the toughest to learn. The electrode is composed of Tungsten, and a current is flowed through it controlled by either a foot pedal, a hand switch, or a fixed current on the machine itself. I am learning TIG using a foot pedal, the more you press down on the metal, the more amps you get. Once you get enough current flowing to get an appropriate sized weld pool, you start dabbing a filler metal into the puddle as you move the electrode further down the work piece. TIG allows you a great amount of control because you regulate how much current the electrode gets and how much filler metal the weld pool gets. This process is very slow compared to the other types though. in my opinion its by far the best process simply because you can CONTROL BOTH THE HEAT POLARITY AND MATERIAL FEED CONSTANTLY MAKING ADJUSTMENTS IN BOTH SHOULD YOU CHOOSE MIG - (Metal Inert Gas) http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk4.html MIG is the easiest process of welding. A feeding gun is used to feed a spool of filler metal wire into the weld pool. in effect you feed a charged wire into the weld are where it melts on contact due to the current arc ,Current is usually switched on and off by means of a trigger on the gun. Amps are usually controlled by a dial on the MIG machine itself, meaning that you cannot adjust current in the middle of welding. Though, with some machine you are able to get a foot pedal to control Amps while welding.the better machines allow you to vary the speed of the wire feed but you set the electrical energy (heat with a dial), its extremely fast and simple to use but your basicall shooting molten wire into the area to be welded. Arc Welding Arc welding is mostly used in industrial applications. An electrode is used to strike an arc, the electrode then melts away to deposit metal into the weld pool. The electrode is coated with a variety of different materials which are used to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated. TIG and non-flux-cored MIG both use a variety of different shielding gases to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated depending on what metal is being welding.

its an old idea that works (KIND-OF-BARELY-SOMETIMES)its really BULL $HIT, the lifter bores in the older blocks and oil passage locations won,t work correctly and if the cam lift exceeds about .500 youll generally have problems CAN it be done yes, will it work,that depends on the application and rpm range, but generally its a BAD idea or thats what GENERAL.MOTORS. would have done, they changed the lifter bores length for a REASON and the after market systems are designed that way FOR A REASON, you can,t CHEAT and expect it to work correctly if you want to save money... http://www.dougherbert.com/ http://www.dougherbert.com/hydraulicrollerliftercam-p-9882.html http://www.dougherbert.com/highenergyhydraulicrollerlifters-p-10126.html

end of debate........... the new heads are superior, well worth getting this is a good example of how increased flow helps hp/tq results, and how restrictive stock heads restrict your potential the old heads were a 50hp improvement over corvette aluminum heads

"I have a 327 I'm planning on building, I'm wondering whats a good combination to get a high rpm motor. Planning for track use. Grumpvette any ideas?" whats your budget and what car, rear gear, heads, typpe of transmision etc. your working with? we can suggest anything from a basic refresh with a mild cam upgrade and a few tweaks to help the power, up to a full overhaul, race build now looking over this thread again I get the feeling your most likely on a limited budget and were looking for a noticable increase over the stock engine but want to keep the costs low and difficulty level on the simple side? I appologise If you think I was jumpping on your idea, that was really not my intention, whats your budget and whats your goal, what are we working with? if your like me your budget won,t cover, nearly what you would like to do, but that doesn,t mean you can,t have a noticable increase in performance thru simple tweaks like an intake and cam swap, or if the budget will allow, new heads? lets us help

tubbing the rear area, adding adjustable coil over shocks and or air shocks and or shorting the rear axle or adding fender flares, moving the suspension components and or connection points are the normal routes. youll need to think it thru and take lots of careful measurments, keep in mind that the slicks tend to increase in dia a good deal at high speeds CAREFUL MEASUREMENT, THINKING IT THRU BEFORE CUTTING, USE OF A GOOD PLASMA CUTTER AND MIG OR TIG WELDERS can be worth there weight in gold here! http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ and yeah, cutting the wheel well,jacking the fender flares out and welding in a spacers been done, as has adding spacers to suspension, or springs,...in some cases going to a smaller slick size or rim off-set and changing the launch style is cheaper, so don,t get crazy think it thru, decide whats best in YOUR application, and what YOUR willing to do!

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/ChevyBigBlockV8s/572.html http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.worldcastings.com/crates_story.htm btw if your even thinking about spending $3500-$14,000 on a crate engine BUY a kick butt ENGINE

looking over that crate engine part list the price is good ,but the parts are not the best for the application, or even close, they were sellected mostly as the minimum that gets the job done, but you could spend slightly more and build a MUCH better engine combo thru a local engine shop, and thats what ID suggest keep in mind its FAR BETTER to have a nearly bullet proof 450-500hp combo with top quality parts than a 400 hp combo or 600 hp combo thats barely able to opperate under the stress levels reguardless of the costs, saving money or power levels should be seen as secondary to absolute depenability notice he said steel, not forged on the crank,(cast steel is likely)heads,were edelbrock,you really need better heads,he had (PINK RODS)not the best, limited to about 450-500 hp/6000rpm MAX, and most other parts are stock, other than the cam, pistons were hypers, again, good but not the forged Id suggest, yes those parts I suggested cost more but for about $1000-$2000 more youll have a TOTTALLY better combo, with potentially much better durrability and power, your choice but, its silly to spend $3500 to get decent combo when about $4500-$5500 will get a far supperior combo well, take notes, you want to install a 4.11 rear gear, and a 3000rpm stall converter or a manual trans 10.5:1 cpr 383 stroker kit, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku a set of the new AIR FLOW RESEARCH 195cc heads, http://airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php a crane #110921 cam, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&N=700+115&autoview=sku rockers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO%2D73600%2D16&N=700+400401+115&autoview=sku a HOLLEY intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&N=700+304703+115&autoview=sku CARB http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67200&N=700+115&autoview=sku headers( EXAMPLE ONLY) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2224HKR&N=700+400390+4294908216+115&autoview=sku nitrous http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+400047+115&autoview=sku then add tires and GO KICK BUTT..youll have 500 hp BEFORE you hit the giggle gas and up to 700 on the giggle gas could one of you computer literate gentelmen post a DD-2000 on that combo with the new AFR flow numbers and the rest of the specs

the theory behind oil restrictors is that limiting the oil flow to the heads helps maintain the flow to the bearings`and reduces windage loses, in PRACTICE, thats proven time and again to be wrong, in that controlling the oil flow is more effective than restricting the oil flow failure to supply enought oil to cool the rockers and springs insures valve train failure on a street car, or a track application, while it may work on a drag only application even then its prone to parts breakage install a properly designed high capacity, baffled oil pan, windage screen, crank scraper, and the MATCHED high volume oil pump, get your clearances correct and you won,t have any bearing failures OR valve train failures you generally won,t need or want to use a high volume oil pump with a stock oil pan or without a windage screen standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer) heres the discriptions right from chevy 12555884 SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump. 62.17 14044872 SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen. the Z28 pump will work fine in 90% of the applications, theres no advantage to the high PRESSURE pump, theres very little if any advantage to the high VOLUME pump in your application Here is a good link on the M-Select pumps. http://www.melling.com/select/oil_pumps_gm_chevy_small_block.asp think # 10990 or #10990C but only with matching mods like the 7-9 qt oil pan and windage screen think 10552 in all the street and strip engines with stock oil pans

back in the 1960s and early 1970s the sbc effective max displacement was limited to about 331-352 displacement simply because the heads available, and valve control tech was limited and could not supply the engines needs much above that displacement with the valve train control limits then available, flow thru the ports was limited, thats why guys like GRUMPY JENKINS built 331 sbcs in classes limited to x displacement PER LB,of car weight, don,t get confused, they could easilly have made more power with a larger engine ,even back then, just not as much power PER CUBIC INCH,once the heads and valve train control issues were worked out the 358-377 became the new upper limits for awhile, now your looking at artificial rules induced limits in racing simply because there ARE heads available that will allow a 450 displacement to work at full efficiency, buzzing the engine much above 7000rpm is generally totally un-necessary if the displacements not limited. spinning an engine past about 4500 fpm in piston speed is rarely productive,on a 327 thats 8000rpm, but it requires very expensive parts to maintain valve control and long term depenability, drop the rpms to about 6500rpm,increase the displacement to 400 cubic inches and cost drop off significantly but power stays similar or increases example 1960s http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm today http://www.brodix.com/BD%20Series.html

I don,t know your budget,the cars weight,rear gear,tire dia. transmission ,are you required to use stock iron heads, is there a cpr or cam lift limit? or if your willing to spend a reasonable amount to be the guy with the fast car on your local track,ID need to KNOW the restrictions the rules place and the other restrictions youll face, could you be more informative or are you just looking for a generic 327 combo, YOUR BUDGET will be critical

BTW I was E-MAILED asking why I seem to be advocating solid lifter cams but run a hydrolic roller in my personal car.. excellent question and I will agree it seems to be a parodox, untill you realize that I was NOT looking at costs, only max performance, and I was looking to allow the sensors on my EFI to work correctly, knock sensors on EFI systems tend to see the rythmic clicking of properly lashed solid lifters as ENGINE DETONATION or knock, and retard the ignition timing, a real p.i.t.a. . TRUST ME I TRIED SEVERAL SOLID LIFTER DESIGNS,that flaw in the EFI/CPUI could not work around easily with the CPU Id sellected when I built the current engine combo.since Ive decided on upgrading to a BBC combo on my corvette and Im in the process of finnishing my garage build further developement has been on hold temporarily , but theres no way on earth the BBC will be anything but a good solid lifter cam(roller) and IVE upgraded the EFI so I can program AROUND the need for a knock sensor, specifically because a solid lifter potentially produces better results and I know that so Ive done the necessary changes to run one, but it makes no sence to upgrade the older engine combo that works reasonably well while I put togeather the necessary components to swap to a 500 plus displacement big block with a 4L80E trans and DANA 60 rear diff read http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm when COST is not a major factor a ROLLER CAM is a good idea, when COST is a major factor, a solid lifter flat tappet is almost your only realistic choice, as its a great value, in hp per dollar spent

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119651&lvl=2&prt=5 anytime you run a roller cam on a reduced base circle its almost mandatory to use a BILLET core vs a cast core cam, because the spring pressures put a huge torsional load on the cam, notice the cam Im useing in my corvette has a .900 base circle and a billet core making clearancing the rotating assembly far easier and my friends corvette with a 454 sbc has a .(second cam) .860 base circle and a billet core making clearancing the rotating assembly far easier