grumpyvette

I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!! I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down???? theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33497 you might want to pick up one of these for your garage, the first time I replaced the U-joints in my vette the local machine shop was going to charge me $20 just to remove and replace EACH u-joint PLUS the cost of the U-joints if I REMOVED delivered and replaced the HALF shafts and DRIVE SHAFT, thats 6 u-joints x $20 or $120, the damn PRESS costs very close too the same amount and FROM THEN ON I could replace them myself , have a press in the garage and not spend any more money, to me thats a TOTAL NO BRAINER heres helpfu info http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/december/u-joint/u-joint.asp http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/november/arms/arms.asp http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

thats sure sounds SIMILAR, in that you can,t SE that last plug and theres a TON of crap in the way!!

any pics of the shop? Id love 4000 sq feet but 2700 will have to do due to finances just keep in mind it took me till I was 58 years old to invest/save/deal/plan/design/build that garage and aquire those tools for a hobby/obsesion Ive had since I was about 16 years old understand its still currently being finnished & under construction well finally got the stucco the lift the bathroom installed in my new garage so Im advancing slowly

damn it feels good to have BOTH the skills and experiance and the tools at the same time to find isolate and fix a potential problem EXAMPLE my 1996 corvette over a period of about 3 hours started running rought, I pulled it in to MY NEW GARAGE,PUT IT UP ON MY NEW LIFT,used my 30 year old floresent drop lights, diagnosed the problem with my computer diagnostic software ,EZ-SCAN 6000 to the o2 sensor malfunction and found that thier location was at best CRAMPED/RESTRICTED, make that nearly impossiable to easily access,I spray the old soon to be removed o2 sensors down with penetrating oil,first to allow time for it to soak in,while I figure out how to remove the damn things, AHHH, but I have a set of cheap harbour freight wrenchs, purchased as throw away stock for just such a problem, sellecting the 7/8" size I measure off the access area at 3"MAX and at an odd angle, so out comes the vise and torch and in no time Ive got a custom bent weird angle wrench that allows me to access the o2 sensor with no drama, taking a couple o2 sensors out of stock,use of some anti-sieze on the threads, of the new o2 sensors and Im back in business in under 30 minutes damn thats nice :rofl: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4047 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2564 http://www.freealloil.com/ example TWO! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/sidewinderwrench.php anyone whos ever replaced spark plugs on an LT1 vette with all the EMMISION CRAP still in place knows theres almost no way to access some of the plugs,especially the rear two on the passenger side , well one tip is to use these tools, (above)and to get that last new rear spark plug started in the threads after coating the threads with anti-seize you can force an 19" length of 3/8" fuel line over the plug porcillin then use one hand to guide it into place while the other hand spins the fuel line to get it started threading, as theres no easy direct access. once its started theres no room to turn a ratchet, the side winder ratchet and longer than common spark plug socket make the job easier

http://www.rsgear.com/ http://www.glennsperformance.com/index.php?product_dc http://www.standardtransmission.com/tremec.html http://www.speedunlimited.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=3589 http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/Lakewood.PDF

after doing several comparisons between just installing a cam (DOT-to-DOT) VS degreeing them in correctly, Im forced to point out that it depends to a HUGE extent on the CAM and how well it meets the specs. while most cams Ive degreed in were well within about 2 degrees Ive seen some that were out of spec significantly (6 degs plus) if your useing a well known brand like CROWER,CRANE,LUNATI,ISKY etc. youll probably be fine, buy a bargin basement kit and your chances get better on problems, but youll still likely be ok. but degree it in correctly and you could easily gain(OR MORE CORRECTLY NOT CHEAT YOURSELF OUT OF, 5-10 hp) if the cams close to correct, if its well out side specs, youll never know it without degreeing it in and youll wonder whats wrong? heres things/info to help http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PH&Product_Code=POW101400&Category_Code=CAMSHAFT link to thread keep in mind the cam may be within specs, and the roller chain gears or cam drive gears or the crank keyways ETC. may be out of speck also, thats one reason degreeing in the cam helps find problems summit [color:"red"] $11 [/color] part # SUM-901064 ID ADVISE you spend the BIG BUCKS and get one before you screw up the crank or keyway ways to turn over the engine WITHOUT the starter theres large bolts for your ballancer theres crank sockets Crankshaft Socket Tool For turning AND MOUNTING Degree Wheels CRANK NUTS crank rotaters flywheel turning tools and your going to need at least one when you degree in a cam or do a compression or leakdown test http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3292&prmenbr=361 this kit comes with a video tape instructions and most of the tools needed its not a bad deal HERES instructions to read over http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html http://www.454ss.com/whitess/Camshaft.htm http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3 http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/IECCTech8.html http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=27019 http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=27015 moroso and TAVIA http://www.tavia.com/cat0.html carry most other tools youll need

you should be able to partly check the timing advance with a timing light (see it advance as the rpms build) just a few questions??? whats your ignition timing at 1000rpm? does it advance when you reve the engine??? did you change the cam or timing chain????? (did you degree the cam or just match the timing marks on the timing sets gears?) have you pulled any trouble codes? what were they? have you adjusted/checked the TPS is set correctly with a digital volt meter? have you checked each fuel injector is functioning correctly, what do the plugs look like? are you sure the plug wires are going to the correct plug locations?, yeah I know you checked,when you installed them, but do yourself a favor and pull them off and re-install each plug wire after metering for resistance! whats your plug gap set at? have you done a compression test? what were the results? have you adjusted the valve lash/preload ?? are you 100% sure your in first gear? (how do you know???) is the trans control cable CORRECTLY adjusted on the throttle body to the trans?? (how do you know???) and to little EXHAUST back pressure is NOT THE CAUSE, you can rule that out for SURE!! is the timing tab and the damper original an are you 100% sure that the TDC on the damper and timing tab reflect REALITY you need to have BOTH diagnostic software and a basic understanding of what that softwares telling you.... http://www.obd2.com/scantool/scantool.htm http://tradervar.zoovy.com/product/EZ-S1?META=nextag-EZ-S1 http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.streetrodparts.tv/700R4_hookup.htm http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0310htp_optispark/

ok lets look at it logically the weak links are the rear diff. and the 700r4 trans once the rears strengthened you could weld the gears but thats ALWAYS a BAD idea as it tends to both weaken the gears thru anealling and un-even heat treatment durring the welding and makes the car wear out rear tires fast if your street driving as theres no differance in the rear tires rpms in turns meaning both tires get worn fast or you ad a SPOOL, but the same rear tire problems remain, its just much stronger.and your still stuck with a weaker than ideal rear diff. you could swap to a corvette REAR, DANA 44 IRS which solves both problems, and its a BIG improvement, but its not the strongest route you could install a ford 9" or DANA 60 rear with a 4 link,rather than the INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION its ALOT MORE work but its basically unbrakeable in a light car like a (Z) if its instaled correctly http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm the route you sellect depends mostly on your skill level and goals

http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm you may find this helpful

impressive and clean /neat swap

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP144&line=MWM http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP146&line=MWM http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP143&line=MWM http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP142&line=MWM $20 -$30 for the covers and $20 for the breathers seems reasonable http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-SB-CIRCLE-TRACK-RACING-VALVE-COVERS-283-350-SBC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33627QQitemZ8057396620QQrdZ1

well Ive got two guesses, ONE the extra heat burned off crud on an oxygen sensor or cleared a partial plugged catalitic converter restriction two the wrap sealled of an exhaust leak that was sucking air and making the sensors read faulty info, which would tend to make them tell the cpu to run richer as the data from the exhaust looks way too lean/cool untill you raised the heat and restricted the cool air access to the exhaust flow

"I set it to 7.850 (.050 longer thans what I tested with originally" go with IT! at 7.850 " its close enougth that any changes will be minor and not likely to cause problems

how many guys use analyzer software to... how many guys use engine analyzer software , like DD-2000, engine analyzer, and similar programs to check out potential changes and mods, and have you found the real world results to be similar to prodicted results? I have several versions in the shop to use for spotting potential problems and areas that need improvement, sure the experiance helps a great deal, but these are very useful tools but the less expensive options are better at guessing trends in the engine mods than acctual results, but thats to be expected simply because they don,t take into accound , NEARLY the same amount of data and ASSUME things the more complex programs actually calculate now thats NOT always a bad thing because the old (GARBAGE IN/GARBAGE OUT) factor applies to most software and if your not 100% sure what your entering is factual data, the simple programs might give closer results than a more precise simulation with some bad data entered heres a few examples http://www.proracingsim.com/desktopdyno.htm http://www.virtualengine2000.com/ http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-max...e/dyno-max.htm http://www.motionsoftware.com/ http://www.dynamometer.fsnet.co.uk/d...o-software.htm http://www.engineprosoft.com/ http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm Ive played with several of these dyno software programs and they run from extremely simple and fairly accurate to extremely complex and difficult to use, but very accurate now I tend to get the best results accuracy wise with software results matching real world results, with EA PRO http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm and http://www.motionsoftware.com/ seems about the fastest and reasonably close at predicting TRENDS

Naturally it will depend on the care and extent and skill of the guy doing most of the porting work, but in reality ID say its a lost cause trying to get those sportsman heads flowing the same numbers, UNLESS, your willing to spend big bucks on a skilled port job from the better head port shops with a flow bench. but even then youll spend a good deal of money to upgrade the current heads, and have cast iron heads that will eventually fill a dumpster, when you screw up simply because its not really feasible to repair cast iron heads once serious damage occurs, while most good shops can EASILLY and relatively cheaply tig weld and machine ALUMINUM head when you screw up,(and trust me if you race, SERIOUSLY, its only a matter of time before you over rev, drop a valve, run into detonation, bust a piston ETC.) I would not think twice about the option, Id sell those heads and get the AFR heads, but just some info, AFR has redesigned their 195cc heads to flow as well as their 210cc-220cc heads and will supposedly have the newer style heads out for sale in the next 90-120 days Heres some quotes from a different thread Tony Mamo said "2-3 months before they start shipping to dealers and private individuals." "new design 195 will replace the old production. New head is a whole different beast. They had a prototype there- very nice piece! Part number remains the same. Now the reason for delay is they are moving from their old shop (and I mean old) to a new location about 30 miles away" "They are calling them the "eliminator" series. " " I called AFR today and they said there new 195 Comps will flow as well as their current 220 heads. And that they are based of a LS1 or LS7 head....?? I can not remember exactly what the tech said?!?!? "

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/wm/18084FDE-E849-48BD-845B-2A7C865D2118.htm

"Any tips on making the roller show up well on the valve tips???' well personally I don,t use a majic marker.... but something you probably use frequently, simply because it tends to work better http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/browseproducts/Starrett-Machinist's-Blue-Dye--4-oz..HTML

you might want to brouse thru this sites info http://www.kendrick-auto.com/lt_1__gm_head.htm http://www.grandsportregistry.com/lt1vslt4.htm http://www.precisionporting.com/index_files/Page448.htm http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm http://www.karl-ellwein.org/3832004/383y2004.htm http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsLT4.html

BillZ260 even if you never get that valve train EXACTLY correct Ill point out two things here (1) you take GREAT CLEAR PHOTOS (2)getting your valve train geometry exactly perfect is NOT CRITICAL, ON A HYDROLIC LIFTER ENGINE RUNNING UNDER 6500,RPM, BUT GETTING IT DAMN CLOSE TO EXACTLY CORRECT IS, don,t get crazy, just work with it untill your sure its very close to the ideal specs, haveing pushrods that are lets say 20-40 thousands too long or short won,t matter on most street engines,simply because the stock production engines rarely get that close to ideal specs and theres generally a minimum of .050-.070 thousands slack in a hydrolic lifter seat between fully pumped up and fully depressed I think sometimes guys go off, and loose sight of the big picture,parts wear, machinist get things close but never exact! yes you want to minimize the variations but just think it thru, do a good job and don,t loose sleep over things that you really can,t control to the last few ten thousanths of an inch!

http://www.gm.com/company/gmability/edu_k-12/5-8/index.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm http://www.keveney.com/otto.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0504sc_header/index1.html http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/headers.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0307_basic/ http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question395.htm http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm http://www.thedirtforum.com/toolbox.htm http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...00322&x=34&y=8 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows... 1&lvl=2&prt=5 theres not a huge diiferance, personally I usually sellect the CRANE CAMS version, simply for the slightly greater lift and slightly lower duration as your compression ratio is marginal for an exact match to the cam and your running a 3.73 vs the 4.11 rear

theres such a large sellection of standard cam designs available if you look thru several dozen manufacturers catalogs that theres little to be gained other than bragging material by sellecting a custom grind cam. Ive been that route several times and while it may be "COOL" it won,t be likely to boost your power significantly over the results youll get from a similar off the shelf design thats available from at least one manufacturer,keep in mind MOST manufacturers keep aN EXTENSIVE LOBE library and can match the lift.durration and LSA you want on a standard core easily,and most manufacturers have HUNDREDS of non-listed cam designs available simply because they don,t have space to list the less popular sellections CRANE 386-258-6174 CROWER 619-661-6477 ISKY 323.770.0930 ENGLE (310) 450-0806 ERSON 775.882.1622 DOUG HERBERT 1-800-444-7373 MELLING 517.787.8172 Schneider Cams 619) 297-0227 LUNATI 1-888-2012066 Cam Techniques http://www.camtechniques.com/ CamCraft Cams http://www.camcraftcams.com/ Comp Cams http://www.compcams.com/ Crane Cams http://www.cranecams.com/ Crower http://www.crower.com/ Daytona Cams http://www.camshafts.com/ Delta Cams http://www.deltacam.com/ Chet Herbert http://www.chetherbert.com/ Howard's Racing Components http://www.howardscams.com/ Iskenderian Racing Cams http://www.iskycams.com/ Lazer Cams http://www.lazercams.com/ Lunati http://www.lunaticams.com/ McGurk Engineering http://www.waynemfgco.com/ Melling Automotive Products http://www.melling.com/ Reed Racing Cams http://www.reedcams.com/ Schneider Racing Cams http://www.schneidercams.com/ Shadbolt Cams Limited http://www.shadboltcams.com/ Clay Smith Cams http://www.claysmithcams.com/ UltraDyne http://www.ultradyne.com/ trust me! (this is only a small part of the available sellection)one of these manufacturers have something almost exactly matching your needs

"But the mass flow rate through the engine is the same, so I would think the more time the coolant spends in the raditor the more heat you can suck out of it." the opposite would also be true,the more time the coolant spends in the engine the more heat you build up in it. look the coolant flow should be regulated with a thermostat, the job of the thermostat is to slow the flow thru the radiator to raise the heat if its below the t-stats rated temp. and allow full flow untill the temp drops below that rateing, this will work correctly only if the combination of radiator surface area and coolant voluum plus the flow can transfer & release that absorbed heat to the air flow thru that radiator FASTER than the engine can add heat to the engine coolant with the t-stat open, since the internal coolant passages in the engine and its coolant voluum are fixed the obvious factors that can be changed are the radiator size,surface area, and air flow rates thru the radiator that carry away the excess heat,and the designed efficiency and the larger the percentage of that coolant in contact with the radiator where it can quickly disipate the heat it absorbed from the engine, the more effective the system can work. since theres usually packaging concerns, and space limitations, the easiest factor to add efficient is both sellecting an effective radiator design and working at increasing air flow thru the radiator and sellecting the radiator with the most surface area to transfer heat to that airflow ijn that given space, remember air is a poor heat conductor and aluminum is a very good conductor of heat, from coolant to air, so adding surface area to the radiator fins tends to help the heat transfer effeciency as it adds both time in contact between air and the fins and surface area, that can aid in that transfer this is a good place to point out than a far higher percentage of the engine temp control is the result of OIL FLOW thru the engine and the release of heat into the sump and oil cooler than most people realize, you can very easily drop engine temps 20-30 degrees thru the use of a large baffled oil pan,and a large efficient oil cooler anfd pumping 7-9 qts of oil thru the system

a locked elevator