nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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that's really awesome. i would love to have that car.
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questions about full length headers pop up here pretty often. i would be interested in hearing more about this. i'll be in the martket for at least 2 sets made for the sbc in jtr within the next year. my interest would be further peaked as long as they fit better than the s&s 5205's and as long as they come with 1 3/4" primaries and 3" collecters... and depending on the price.
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im just north of atlanta in alpharetta. i think the best bang for your buck would be to visit a ga z club meet. they meet the first tuesday of every month at hooter's on jimmy carter blvd. there is usually a pretty good selection of modifieds there.
if you can't make that, i'm thinking we can schedule our own hybrid z meet for a saturday during your stay. mikekz, and other ga zedders, any thoughts?
on that note, you're more than welcome to come see mine on a weekend. it's drivable, and i drive it often, but not near complete. i can even take you to visit a friend that has a 240 drag car.
when are you coming?
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rust-free 240z = urban legend
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sapporo, warsteiner, negro modelo, corona with lime... in that order.
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I am running full length headers from Motorsports. Dont know who build them for Motorsport. They appeared to be dropped shipped with no mention of the manufacturer. They are 1 3/4 and fit well with the kit. The reason that I went with their swap kit was to get a set of 1 3/4 full length headers. They are nice.
www.motorsports.com I think
If you are enterested respond to this reply and I will find the phone #
Bubba Fett
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He sent me to get the Jedi
the long tube headers that motorsport sells are s&s headers, the same that mikelly refers to. i'm using s&S in my car, as well. for the jtr install, you will want to slot the stock motor mount locations such that you can slide the engine forward. this is beneficial for using an hei distributor, as well. i didnt have any issues with steering linkage.... my problem was that the collectors were too close to the firewall/tranny tunnel without the slotting. with my 3" duals, i ended up having to dimple the corner of the floor/tranny tunnel from underneath the car so that the exhaust would line up nicely. i was just too stubborn to pull the engine/tranny again at the time.
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wasnt there a thread about this earlier? i think someone said it was a house of kolors sunset pearl. but, it looked a little different than that color to me...
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i have a friend who did this. he slotted the factory motor mount locations (similar to what is done with jtr) to allow the drivetrain to go farther back. it made a big difference with his car, as his hei distributor is very close to the firewall (not as close as with jtr, but pretty darned close). as mentioned before, a stock hood will limit your choice of intakes and air cleaners, but if you're in the 275 hp range, i dont think this will concern you too much. i would, however, still recommend jtr over the hooker/scarab.
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i installed a fuel cell in my car. one of my reasons was for the dual exhaust. i previously had 2.5" to single 3" pipe and prefer my duals now, especially in my case since the single 3" pipe was choking my top end.
i used a 15 gallon cell that i bought from summit racing (part number SUM-290215-SD). there are pics in my imagestation album referenced in my signature of the cell install. if i had it to do over again, i would probably use an ATL well cell so that i didnt have to hack up the back of the car.
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i suppose the theme is muscle car....-ish. but, that's mostly due to the wheels and tires.
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i use imagestation, but ofoto is pretty good, too.
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Will the JTR x-member work for a 2004r and/or 700r4?
for installing my 200-4r, i had 2 sections cut out of the cross member to get it to fit without much floor pounding (since the mounting location is farther back).
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Time' date=' space, matter.
past, present, future.
water, earth,sky.
protons, neutrons, electrons.
solid, vapor, liquid.
red, yellow, blue.
child, adult, senior.
height, width, depth.
body, mind, spirit.
the trinity (for people of faith)
boy, girl, one common goal.
compromise, sacrifice, dedication.
Giving up something you want, to get something else you need, or want, is compromise.
Giving up something you have for (possibly) nothing in return is sacrificing.
Dedication is determined by how long and well you do the first two. Removing any of these three concepts will make it difficult (if not impossible) for any relationship to be healthy and strong enough to stand the test of time.[/quote']
very nicely stated. i wish someone would have given me a swift kick in the arse and said this to me multiple times in the past 6 months until it stuck. but, there is nothing i can do about it now. but, i will always love her.
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nicely done! got any engine shots? or shots of the interior and fuel cell?
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I always wanted to make a gun that shoots killer poodles.
i would buy this gun.
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if anyone is looking for a 200-4r to be used for more of a daily driver car, i have a spare rebuilt 200-4r with 2200 stall lockup converter, tv cable, and lockup wiring kit that i was going to use for my next project. i was planning on building a 330hp motor, but decided to go crazy again with another 450+ hp motor. im not so set on selling it to post in the classifieds... just thought maybe i could help someone out that was looking to go this route. if anyone is interested, pm me for more details.
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make me one please
yeah, put me next in line... that's absolutely awesome!
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interesting... and the article mentions 17's for some of the "retroengineered" wheels. looking forward to seeing pics when they are released in january.
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that's an error on the bowtieoverdrives website. they copied the 700-r4 data for the 200-4r ratios. they've been doing a lot of changes to the websites they maintain lately. here are the actual 200-4r ratios:
2.74:1, 1.57:1, 1.00:1, 0.67:1
and this is a quote from chevy hi performance mag (taken from http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/46278/index1.html):
Even though both the 200-4R and 700-R4 offer an overdrive Fourth gear, their First, Second, and Third gears are truly what sets them apart from the rest. Their only shared gear ratio is the 1.00:1 Third-gear ratio. The accompanying chart shows ratios for all the GM automatics.As you can see, the 700-R4 has a very steep First gear ratio with a big drop between First and Second gear. While a deeper First gear ratio will launch a car harder, the shift to Second gear will hurt acceleration due to the large rpm drop at the gear change. Although the 200-4R’s less steep First-to-Second-gear rpm drop will affect acceleration, its closer gear speed far outweighs this minor drawback, making it a prime candidate for a daily driver/weekend warrior.
post 500!
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those are cool!!
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i've had experience with both transmissions (had a 'beefed up' 700r4 in an '86 trans am with a 400 sbc), and prefer the 200-4r's gearing. as stated above, it can be built to handle plenty of power and it's an easier replacement for the th350 since you don't have to have your driveshaft shortened. you do have to move the transmission crossmember ~5" rearward, though. i got my stage 3 200-4r from bowtieoverdrives.com to replace my th350.
definitely check out their info on proper installation and tv cable set up. their "linez made ez" kit is also recommended. they have everything you need to put in a 200-4r or 700-r4 in your car.
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i believe you can still buy the engine mounts from hooker (as in hooker headers), but im not sure about the transmission crossmember. msa's kit better than the hooker/scarab kit? i didn't think so when i saw an msa kit up close. but, i agree that jtr is the way to go. i switched from the hooker kit to jtr and will never go back.
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i assume you mean this pic?
that's a lot of wheel!! pretty cool design
Another LS1 in the oven
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
i have dual 3" exhaust on my car