nullbound

i used a product aptly named z-poxy to repair a leaking fuel tank in my 76 280. it was splitting at the seam at the rear of the car, leaking fuel like mad. z-poxy is a two part epoxy. dries FAST and cured my problem.

that, or you could just assume that E stands for 'Enough' and F stands for 'Fillerup'.

i had this happen twice in my '76 280, both for different reasons. the first time for me it was the switch for the headlights. the first click on your switch controls the dashlights and running lights. the second click is your headlights. i removed the plastic steering housing the first time to find that somehow the solder broke, leaving the green wire with the white stripe hanging in limbo. i resoldered the wires and everything worked fine. the second time for me, i had replaced a nonworking gauge in my dash. upon reassembly, somehow i pinched and grounded a wire in the dash. it blew the fuse that night when i flipped on the headlights. i got pulled over on the way home for not having running lights, so be careful. no ticket, but still... if youve done any spelunking in your dash, recheck your connections. next, check the connections on your headlight switch under the plastic housing. beyond that, something must have shorted. dont worry, it's pretty common on these cars for the wiring to do funny things. i had a '72 that lost it's running and dash lights, too. i ended up rewiring those lights, still controlling it with the same switch. sort of a PITA, though. good luck!

yes, all the parts will swap.

agreed. i would like to see a pic of these full length hookers, to see how they compare to the s&s full length headers.

cool, thanks for the part number! well, even if they are coated they can still be welded on. after the welding is done, those parts can be painted or you could even have the whole setup recoated. just depends on what you want to do. from personal experience, i usually recommend that anyone buying any headers buy them painted, not coated from the factory. that way you can test fit and know if they need to be modified. then get them coated after any modifications you may or may not have to do. it's a nice insurance policy, keeping you from wasting money. and i do know that hooker charges a lot for coating! i went against my own advise on my last set... i bought them coated, but they were only $200, so i didnt feel like i lost out in any way. i did have to have my headers modified to clear my steering arm. the exhaust shop guy painted the section of pipe that he modified and it still looks new after six weeks and a lot of driving. give it a few more months and mine may start to show signs of wear, but it is under the car and you really dont see it that much anyway. i may pull them and have them recoated at some point. regardless, good luck with yours!!

the exhaust shop can weld a collector on to the end of your headers, or they can swell up the exhaust pipe to sleeve on to your header, held with a clamp. i agree, i wouldnt want to weld the exhaust to the headers either. you want to be able to remove everything without cutting. i would go with a welded on collector and then have the headers coated. whats the part number on your headers? mine is a scarab, too.

i found that rather long email i was referring to about bowtieoverdrives.com. i thought i had deleted it. this is from about 6 months ago, so i dont know about the prices now, but lots of good info: > ************************************************************************* ****** > FirstName: > LastName: > StreetAddress: > City: stockbridge > State: ga > ZipCode: 30281 > EmailAddress: > Telephone: ... > MakeOfCar: Datsun > Model: 240Z > Year: 1973 > EngineSize: Chevy 350 V-8 > CarburetorType: Jet Stage 2 Q-Jet > RearEndRatio: 3.36 > TireSize: 235/60-15 > PresentTransmission: turbo 350 > ShifterType: Console > Submit: Send E-Mail > HTTP User Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; Win 9x 4.90) > > AdditionalQuestions: > > I have been interested in switching my turbo 350 tranny for a 200-4r for some time. I want something that can handle about 500 to 550 horsepower (i am currently building a 400 for it that will be in that hp range) can take street driving as well as occasional runs on drag slicks in 1/8 mile runs at the strip. > > right now, i am running a mild 350 (around 330 to 350 hp) and dont really like the limits of the turbo 350 for driving around, especially on the expressway. i am limited by the 3:36 differential to about 60 to 65 for sustained highway cruising. i would like to add the overdrive gear to increase that range... at that time i would like to also change my diff to a 3.90 or 4.11. > > basically, i want something that can handle a lot of street driving and runs at the drag strip on weekends. i have been talking to some local shops, but they dont really impress me with their knowledge of the 2004r. they seem to know more about the 700r4's. > > can you give me an estimate on a tranny? what comes with the tranny? Thomas: A well built and correctly installed and set up Th-2004R will work great in your application. We have these units in lots of cars in the 500 to 550 range and have few problems with them. The lower first gear will give you the equivalent of a 3.55 rear end gear compared to your current Th-350 while it's in first gear. Please find the following prices and a brief description of the items you will need to do this conversion: * Th-2004R transmission including a heavy duty high performance torque converter is $1020.00. These units feature a blueprint overhaul using only the finest brand name component parts. Hardened stator, 10 vane pump, hardened rings, high rpm springs, special servo assembly, Raybestos frictions, special machining on the pump, and of course all new standard replacement parts like bushings, seals, and gaskets. The torque converter is built with a Kevlar clutch, torrington bearing replacing the thrust washer, special steel bushing, heavy duty sprag and heavy duty damping unit. They are precision balanced for smooth quiet operation. * T.V. (throttle valve) cable adapter system for your carburetor is $42.00. This cable controls all pressure manufacture and is the major outside influence on shift timing and feel. The importance of getting this system calibrated for your vehicle cannot be overstated. While other companies tell you it's important, we offer the parts and easy to follow instructions on how to establish this relationship correctly. All of our transmissions come with illustrated instructions on this critical set up. * Zero to 300 PSI gauge with six foot hose and close 90 degree fitting is $28.00. This is a basic diagnostic tool that we require be installed during the start up and test driving to confirm the pressures are the same as when the transmission left our test stand. * Dip stick is $22.00. This is a new General Motors unit that will fit your application. * Inspection cover (dust shield) is $22.00. * Speedometer calibration gear set is $44.00. This is all new Delco parts and is everything except the speedometer cable and the gauge. We will need your tire size and rear end ratio to accomplish this. When you get the transmission installed, all you will need to do is screw the speedometer cable onto the transmission drive gears and your speedometer should be correct! If you are planning to run electronic gauges, there is no charge. These transmissions already have electronic speed sensors built in that will interface with the after market gauges. * Brake pedal switch that will disable the converter lock up whenever you press on the brakes. This feature will prevent you from killing the engine if you should skid the rear tires while braking. This switch will replace the old one under the dash and costs $12.00. * Plug in wiring harness for connecting from the transmission to the brake light disconnect switch or relay. Cost is $16.00. * Your existing cooling lines will hook right up to the Th-2004R fittings as they are the same 5/16" inverted flare. To line up the lines to their new locations you will have to bend them a little bit. This is a simple matter as long as you don't get too enthusiastic during the bending process. Take the time to inspect the lines for any restrictions as too little flow volume is the same as inadequate cooling capacity! * Your present Th-350 drive shaft will work just fine as is. * The rubber mount is the same but positioned around 5" further to the rear. * The other items like flexplate/starter, transmission tunnel clearance, exhaust is normally not a issue with these conversions. Everything should work as is. * Our company has always felt that proper installation was the real key to success with these nifty overdrives. All of our transmissions come to you with a set of comprehensive written installation guidelines plus we have excellent technical support available via the telephone. We believe this is the main reason why our company has less than 1/2 of one percent return rate for any reason. It has been our experience that most people wish to do a job correctly, they just need to know how to do so. * Freight will be $157.86. This will be shipped using Consolidated Freightways to their nearest terminal closest to the zip you gave or a commercial address (same zip). If you wish to have it shipped to your home address, someone will need to be there to receive it that can assist in lifting it off the truck, weight 210 pounds. This service costs an additional $38.00. To give you an absolute example of the effect it will have, lets just say you have your car out on the highway right now and you are in third gear with the tach reading 3000 RPMs. If you could magically install a Th-2004R, then let it go into overdrive fourth gear, your RPMs would drop to 2050! By installing one of these overdrives, you should see an increase in fuel economy of around 40%. This has been quite predictable. The lower sound level and reduced vibration are also very noticeable. In my opinion, installing a modern overdrive transmission is the best upgrade you can do to your vehicle. It will have a greater positive overall effect on your street drive ability than any other component you could upgrade. I know this is a strong statement but the responses from customers over the last 5 years that we have been doing these conversions convinces me that it's true. Installing one of these modern overdrives is widely being acknowledged as a great way to not only improve the overall performance of the vehicle but also is one of the few items you can install on your car that will increase the value above its cost and also make the vehicle far more sellable. Our company has a stated goal of providing the finest transmissions available anywhere at any price, then provide technical support to these customers from the purchase, through the installation, test driving and any necessary adjustments required. Our transmissions warranty starts when the customer and our company, agree the installation has been completed correctly, the transmissions needs are properly provided for and it is working correctly in the vehicle. This requires a co-operative effort from both parties but has resulted in an extremely low failure rate from these wonderful but complex transmissions. Our warranty covers defective parts or workmanship for a period of one year form this date of agreement. We, unlike our competition, test drive every one of our transmissions in a vehicle. We used only our in house dyno before but found this method doesn't let you check the "feel" of the transmissions shifts and other activities. We have found the only way to ensure they work the correct way is to install and test drive them in one of our two vehicles dedicated to this procedure. We have all these items in stock and can ship your order very quickly. Hope this provides the information you were looking for. If something was overlooked, please feel free to ask further questions. Prior to shipment, all transmissions are pre tested on our in house test facility to insure correct operation and operating pressures. We accept all major credit cards, money orders, cashiers checks, bank transfers or personal checks from southern CA. Our normal office hours are from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. Monday through Friday PST. Sincerely Steve Holmes Bow Tie Overdrive e-mail address: dr700r4@earthlink.net Telephone: (760) 947-5240 FAX number: (760) 948-0196 Web site: http://www.700r4.com

lookin' good, miles!! nice pics! and that's an affirmative on using a mechanical fuel pump with the msa kit. a good friend of mine has a 72 240Z with a 400 installed, using the msa kit. it sits back a good bit farther than my 377 with the hooker/scarab kit, but not as far back or as low as the jtr kit. personally, i like the msa kit a lot more than my hooker/scarab kit.

yeah, i have done this in a viper... be wary when wearing shorts. vipers have a big sticker letting you know that you could get burned and to be careful when exitting.. all i can say is that you only do it once.

i was thinking the same about the paint job: sucky and stock in the middle.

speaking of sidepipes, found this on ebay: 280 with sidepipes he wont get anywhere near what he wants for the car. too much overspray with the paint, i'm assuming the dash is cracked with that top, dont like the eq on top of the dash, and on and on. looks like he would be lucky to get $3K for that. i was thinking $8000 if i sold mine, but it's a lot easier to add the parts up on mine to get well over that figure. on his.... nice steering wheel is about all i can say.

bowtie overdrives should be able to help you with recalibrating your speedometer. they sell a kit (i couldnt find it on their new site but they emailed me about it once when i asked a similar question...). all they need is your rear end ratio and tiresize and they can get you going. they also have a kit for installing and adjusting the tv cable. definately a good conversion. i plan on converting from my th350 to a 2004r soon. http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

that car is walker morgan's turbo'd 280Z. it is a sweet looking car. i love those wheels, too, but i dont think i would black them out. to each his own. they are 18x8.5's. here is another page with more pics of that car: http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/otherzs/walker/heatedpassion.html the 'old pics' show a nice set of wheels, too. that setup will require coilovers. he's got the 5-lug conversion front and rear, too.

i've never heard of a 200d transmission. gm has had 4 different 3 speed trannies: th350, th375, th400, and 3L80. gm has had the following 4-speed (4th being o/d) trannies: 200-4r, 700-r4, 4L60, 4L60-E, 4L80, and 4L80-E. and nion is right: it is actually "200-4r", not "200-r4". a lot of people usually say 200-r4 because of the better known 700-r4. i'm not sure why gm named them this way, though. the 200-4r was used on early 3rd generation f-bodies (camaros and firebirds), grand nationals, and a few other cars. the grand national had the most desirable 200-4r as it was a bit more stout and could handle more power than the ones that came in other cars. it was considered a heavy duty 200-4r. they can be used with sbc's and there are a few members of this forum that are using them effectively. there are several companies that build them for handling 500 hp and beyond. good sites for 200-4r's: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index2.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4R.htm http://www.tpiperformance.com/200r4.html another option, but pricey, is the gear vendors under/overdrive unit. info for that is here: http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html this can be used with th350's to make a six speed setup. you can also use these with an overdrive to make an eight-speed setup. cool stuff, but pricey ( around $2200 ).

sweet deal, dude! the S&S full-length will work with angled-plug heads. get 'em coated and run a dual 3"

i asked a similar question on here about headers for angled-plug heads about a month ago. the solution presented to me was to use the rw37 from here: http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/ these will work with the JTR setup, as mike kz has these on his car with that kit. you'll notice immediately on that page the difference between the rw37 and the rw27 (a standard-style shorty blockhugger). this makes all the difference for those angled plugs. there is a good amount of clearance for the spark plug boots, too. these come nicely coated and should work well with your LT1. if anyone knows of a problem here, please chime in. also, they are priced at a low $199, which you cant really beat, especially since they are already coated. i had hookers on my last motor... i like the rw37's better. i did have to modify the rw37s on my car to clear the steering arm, but I am using the hooker (scarab) kit. good luck! ryan

good question! seems, however, like it would offer all the benefits of an x-pipe assembly.. but by eliminating the need for an x-pipe. it would be very interesting to see that comparison made in all the tech articles out there about x-pipes, h-pipes, etc. hehe, cool douglas! i went to college in decatur, setting off many a car alarm with the exhaust tones of my z-car monstrosities. how did you end up in new zealand? i'm actually wanting to skip town myself... getting a programming job is one problem, fighting atlanta traffic is another. how's the job market down there?

pics please, mike!! that is a great way to go. i didnt see that on your site, though. btw, did you get your engine back together?

if i'm not mistaken, the inlet if the muffler on that photo is on the right side. as the exhaust comes into the muffler, the lips on the six "cylinders" catch the exhaust and in effect 'spin' the exhaust gases, allowing some to escape through the perforations in the side of the spin cylinder. a really neat design, IMO, and supposedly rivals the flowmaster. i was going to use it on my car, but i ended up getting a great deal on my delta force flowmaster.

woh, that is really cool. i've never seen an actual cutaway, either. can i get mine blue inside?? hehe... anywho, as far as x-pipes, Stainless Works makes a nice one, but it costs around $180. hedman makes a universal (rrrrrrrright....) x-pipe kit, available through jeg's. the dr. gas kit looks really good, but i have never seen a price on it. however, flowmaster makes a balance pipe kit (h-pipe, not x-pipe) for $36.99 thru jeg's. and as close as the pipes will be on a z (that is, assuming this kit will be installed behind the tranny), you wont really be able to tell the difference in h-pipes and x-pipes. the other option would be to see what a good exhaust shop would charge to make one for you. it would be nice, though, if flowmaster sold one outright, like their y-collector (a really nice and smooth piece!) another good source for spintechs is Mufflex. i've noticed an interesting x-pipe on some of their installations. give them a call, they are more than happy to talk shop. 609.890.0481 let us know what you end up using. lates, ryan

oops, said i used march brackets on my car... i used the march pulley set that didnt include their brackets. was about $100 cheaper for me that way. i actually used moroso alternator brackets.

mark is right, street and performance do make just about any combo you could imagine. the site has many nice looking combos that i wish i could afford. they'll have what you need for an lt1 here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ they are pricey, so you might want to check with march performance. they make a lot of nice kits, too, and will probably have what you need for a little bit cheaper.... but they arent exactly all that cheap either: http://www.marchperf.com i used march brackets on my 377 and like them a lot. i'm not sure what your lt-1 will require, but this should get you started. you can get march performance brackets from summit racing or jeg's, too. they can usually help you out over the phone or you can look on their online catalog. http://www.summitracing.com phone: 1.800.230.3030 http://www.jegs.com phone: 1.800.345.4545 let us know what you end up using... i do see an lt-4 in my future with my next v8 240. good luck, ryan

super280 gave sound advice with the muffler bearings. that's what i usually suggest. you also might consider turbo mudflaps for all four wheels... high dollar upgrades, though. i've got tweety-bird floormats in my car that picked me up two-tenths on the eighth-mile. those stock datsun floormats were just too heavy.

which carb is it? a 6708?