nullbound

i used a universal q-logic panel for a midrange to mount 5.25" kicker midranges and tweeters in the kickpanel area. the cool thing about the kickers i bought were that the tweeters mounted on the grilles. i hated the idea of cutting my door panels or my doors. i only had to cut the original kick panels to allow space for the magnet of my midrange. i cut the panels to the size of the section behind the panel that houses the bolts for the door hinges. i was at a local stereo shop and they had a bin full of these that they let me look through and take to my car to test for fitment. q-logic has a website , but doesnt list the particular panel i bought. i'm sure if you contacted them, they could get them for you. i tried the ones with the tweeter mounts, but they wouldnt clear the blower motor on the passenger side. i still need to trim the q-logic panels to tuck behind the weather-stripping. for the rear, i am using the 6x9 enclosure that msa sells. i am pleased with the results and the imaging is good.

here's your new lt5: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874874383 that would be really cool.. but, too pricey for me.

hey pete, you're more than welcome for the link. competition products has a lot of good stuff for cheaper than you can get it at most other places. yeah, i usually subtract 200 from each side the rpm ranges listed in the catalogs when the cam is for a 400. that's a safe estimate. it will be interesting to hear how well it works with the tbi. right now, my 377 has a comp cams 280AR magnum mechanical roller, part# 12-702-8, 2500-6500rpm, 236/236 @.050, 110 lsa. it pulls hard and runs SMOOTH. my engine was in my friend paul's drag car and brought consistent 6.90's at 100 mph. his best time was a 6.89 at 101 mph with a 1.48 60' time... it was open header, but on pump gas with an alternator and water pump. his car weighs about 300 pounds lighter than my car and he has a welded up 3.90 diff. the moral: it's plenty for a street car, almost more than enough. it's all relative, though. i think you're going to have a pretty radical car in terms of motor when all is said and done. i'm not at all trying to dissuade you from your choices. traction is definitely going to be a problem for you. and it's definitely going to be a huge step up either way from your 327. and, at the same time, i cant say much to dissuade anyway since i just bought a comp cams XR280R extreme energy cam: 2500-6500, 242/248 @ 0.050, 110 LSA. it's the same rpm range as my current cam, but definitely more radical.

that crane 114681 is a great cam, but it seems a bit much for a street car. the rpm range is listed as 3400 to 6800. in the beginning of this thread, you said you wanted something in the range of 1500 to 5500. the solid flat (236/242 @.050) cam might be more up your alley. grumpyvette's combo is an awesome combo, but i feel like it might be a bit much for what you want your car to do.

competition products seems to have the best prices on canfields: http://www.competitionproducts.com/page11.html

you can find some good general information here: mp3 info/definitions

well, it did... russ240 bought it yesterday

excellent question... i've actually been wondering the same. at one point, i was in contact with him for a fuel rail for my '76 280. i never ended up getting the rail, but he was really knowledgeable and friendly about all things Z.

i would agree about the pro-street look and with 18's or 20's it would look similar to the pic of the photochopped car from jeromio's site at the top of this thread.

i just created a new album on imagestation with the pics of his setup: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290992181

with that kind of power, i wouldnt hesitate to put a solid axle in your car. yeah, your car is beautiful, but it can be done so that your car is still streetable and has the look that everyone will still appreciate. i agree that your car is an inspiration for a lot of us, but at the same time, your goals can be met and you would definitely benefit from having more tire underneath. i probably wouldnt go the 4-link route myself. there just isnt really enough room under there without doing a lot of surgery behind the seats. i'm about to cut the spare tire well out of my car to add a fuel cell. if i decide to do the 12 bolt route down the road, i dont want to have to do too much more hacking inside my car. that's why i like how mikekz put his 12 bolt in: mikekz 12 bolt setup he's got a really cool installation that didnt require too much hacking of his interior. for the tubs, he just cut the inner rear tire wells, moved them in about 4+inches and filled in the gaps. it's a great job and he's running 15x10's. you could do the same and run your 20x10's on the street and 15x10's with slicks at the track. i've had thoughts of doing similar as i want to run 17 or 18 x 10's on the street and have the backup 15's with slicks for the track. i've got some pics of his car in the process. i can email them to you if you want.

go to or call your local tag office and ask them what you can do. i bought a 1970 240Z about 5 years ago (and havent done anything to it yet, but that's another story...). i bought it with only a bill of sale. no tag receipt and no title. the previous owner never sent it to the guy i bought the car from. he had the car for about six years and never did anything with it either. i went by the local tag office and they gave me a vin verification form. i had to call the police and have them send out an officer to match the vin on my bill of sale with the vin on the car. he filled out the form. it took about 5 minutes and 4 of them were bs-ing with the cop. that's the process here in georgia anyway. i know you cali guys get it a little rougher, but i hope it's that easy for you, too. i got a tag for it the next day and never had to crank the car.

you can ship it via ups through mailbox etc, but they will charge you twice as much as ups. i ordered fiberglass bumpers from msa once and the quality was so poor i decided to return them upon first glance. i went through a similar ordeal with sizing. i took it to mailbox etc and they tried to charge me $110. the ups driver was there at the time and gave me the "dont do it" face. i spoke with him later outside the store and he mentioned how places like that like to put money in their pocket by charging a hefty middleman fee. i called ups on his advice and and scheduled a pickup and shipped it for around $40. they are strict on pickups, yes, and that is based on the volume of the box moreso than the weight. you should be able to take it directly to ups, though, and send it that way. that, or try quick delivery service like aviatorx recommended.

i have to concur on the ford aerostar with v6. major pita!!

pete's got a nice how-to on his site with a wiring diagram: Headlight_Relay

check with bowtie overdrives. they have a kit, the TV made EZ kit, that will allow you to use your holley carb safely with your 700r4: http://www.700r4.com/ .

there are reliefs on the diagonals of each reservoir. turn the metal retainer counterclockwise to where one of the reliefs on one cap is pointing in the direction of the passenger side headlight. then you'll be able to pull it off. hopefully it's the same on your 260 as it is on my 240.

S&S headers have a really nice set with 1 3/4" tubes that will fit with the jtr kit: http://www.ssheaders.com/StreetRod.htm, part# 5205

yeah, if you're wanting a non-oem color, buying white (is white an oem carpet color?) and having that dyed to your color of choice would be best. blue would be extremely cool.

tranny and motor mounts: http://www.jagsthatrun.com or you cand buy the hooker/scarab kit from summit or jegs headers: http://www.ssheaders.com (part# 5205) or http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/ (part# rw37) many other sites available. normally the search function is recommmended, but it hasnt worked properly recently. it's highly recommended to research this site and get the jtr book from jagsthatrun.com.

definitely a bold choice. i must say that his car looks great in person and mike's an all around great guy. i wish i could have had my car next to his at the montgomery event... but that would have made me want my new paint job even sooner, hehe. my color of choice is silver. i'm about to paint the one in my signature bmw titanium silver. i also have an 1970 240 that is orange. being a hater of orange, i am actually going to change the color to bmw alpine white (yeah, i like the bimmer colors). i think white looks great on a z. any doubts? check out this white beauty: i'll be going a similar route: fairlady flares, euro bumpers, 280 vented hood, kaminari front spoiler (same one as on my silver car), 17" anthracite wheels. i can only hope mine looks as good as Satosan's.

motorsport auto, victoria british, and even jc whitney sell carpet kits. i bought a complete kit (covered the vinyl, too) from jcwhitney a few years back for a 240 that i had at the time. the quality was very good and many colors available.

hi all, i'm looking to buy an edelbrock #2726 torker 2 intake for a 750 dominator on an sbc. i've tried the following places so far: jegs, summit racing, barnett performance, and ebay. i emailed edelbrock directly and found that the part has been discontinued... can anyone recommend any other places to look?? any suggestions are greatly appreciated. thanks,

true dat.

either that's a fourth brake light for people in front of him to see, or it's a hood scoop to cool his feet while driving down the highway in that mister two.