nullbound

i agree with tim240Z. it's not my cup of tea, but if it made the builder or buyer happy in any way, then more power to them. but, since it's built from a ford escort, i think it's more likely that people that see it will be passing it instead of the other way around. it would be really fun to have a v8-powered land speeder clone to outrun the vipers and vettes with. i know what their expressions look like now, but with the land speeder?? that makes me laugh just thinking about it. just make sure to get the matching jedi costume when you drive it.

man, i cant believe we missed out on this great opportunity:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855415508 where's triumph the insult dog when you need him? i guess that there's potential for a new z body kit.....

some of the other t's they have are really good: t-shirts that may offend you definitely not for the kiddies, nor is it appropriate at work.

cool, thanks for the info mike and zfan!

zfan (or anyone else), did you have to do anything special to use the 105 amp alternator? i have heard that you can kill an amp gauge quickly going that route and wanted to verify. i actually have a similarly high amp chrome one-wire alternator that i was thinking of installing when i put my new radiator and taurus fan in the car.

i'm a big fan of UT and looking forward to Doom3 and the new UT. i was playing jedi outcast for a while... currently playing america's army and the multiplayer demo of battlefield 1942. both are very cool and very free.

i noticed this, too, earlier today... my attempted search was in the chevy board; but, i didnt realize it was only the chevy board.

hey mike, sorry, i didnt see this sooner. i'm probably not going to make it to the meet on tuesday. i'm in town now, but it looks like i'm going back to memphis monday or tuesday. hopefully i will be able to go to next month's meeting.

hey denny, actually, that's my bad... i forgot that imagestation is funky sometimes when you try to link to a pic. the pics i was referring to are in this album: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291962855 pic #4 and pic #35.

hey denny, I'm a little skeptical about that working... i think it would just depend on how wide your pan is. i havent seen the moroso 7 qt, but i have seen a milodon low profile 7 qt pan that really seemed like it would not clear the headers. maybe the moroso pan doesnt kick out as far on the sides. if so, i'm pretty sure the driver's side would be ok; but, the passenger side header might still be pretty close. below are a few pics: one of my engine with s&s headers on and one of my friend paul's 400 with the same headers on. you can see the clearance on both sides with these pans. i hope this helps you. s&s headers on 377 with 5 qt milodon pan s&s headers on 400 with 6 qt moroso pan

beautiful work!! nicely done. i've always liked the idea of the rb26dett in an early Z.

ok, you're crazy. have a closer look at the rear of the engine. there is an pipe that is tucked behind the two easily-visible pipes. v12 all the way.

hi tim, sorry about that. looks like my hotmail account has about reached it's limits. i emailed you from another account. thanks,

tim, i may be interested in those s&s. do you have pics? if so, please email them to me and let me know what you want for them. thanks,

the worse part is that people are actually bidding on that...

hey nion, what struts are you using front and rear? i'm planning coilovers on my 70 Z and am also planning to section 2", but using 17x8 wheels. i may dump mine, too, while the six is still in it. thanks, ryan

http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=64370&BQ=jcw2

yup. my stock datsun overflow bottle works great. when the radiator cools down, coolant is sucked back into via the vaccuum effect described in previous posts.

i know what you mean mike. i have been wearing glasses with a very mild prescription for the past 6 years. one eye is worse than the other and, even though i hate wearing glasses, i have endured. now i cant stand it any more. it's time for me to go to the eye doctor again to get a new prescrition. i really think i will be saving in the long run by getting lasik surgery. i've been seriously thinking about it. however, the extent of my search has been seeing the ads in the sunday paper for the assembly line shops that do it for $499 (per eye, i think) or the emory vision care center in atlanta that does it for like $4000 (i think, hopefully, this is for both eyes). my question is this: what's the best way to go about finding out who is good at this? i have talked to people who say the $499 places are fine and others who have gone to the $499 places to get it done, but ended up having to go to emory to repair the damage they caused. i just dont want to make anything worse. thanks, in advace, for any replies to my question.

hey guys, paul appreciates the complements owen, i'll try to get some shots of the headers when i get back from my business trip to memphis. the headers are s&s 1 3/4 full length headers, the same as msa sells. they are within a 1/4 of an inch of the steering arm. when they were coated, paul had the shop cut the collectors off and weld on turn downs. the new turndowns basically dump the exhaust right behind the front wheels.... very very loudly, hehe. he used the same headers on his '72 car and found that they basically dump right into the firewall as they come from s&s. this set was a little different than the set on his '72, though. on his '72 he had dual 3" exhaust, but the exhaust shop had to do some weird angling to get from the header to the straight pipe. if the primaries came down about 2 more inches, they would be perfect for the scarab kit. i understand that they may be a little too low for the jtr kit, though. i plan on using s&s when i convert my '73 to jtr, so i'm a little curious about ground clearance. mike kz, you're invited any time... when i get back from memphis, that is. paul and i are looking forward to seeing your car in person. paul got a narrowed 12 bolt for the drag car and wants to see yours to see what's involved in that swap. jt1, the vic jr's are straight out of the box. a friend wanted to port them, but we thought they would be fine as is. paul's already planning another 377 build, using the 64cc vic jr's. thanks again,

hey guys, my friend paul finished the build up of his latest motor for his 240 drag car. pics of the engine and car: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291962855 the first 20 pics are of the 377 that's currently in my car after it was initially built for the drag car. pic 21 starts the new engine pics. here's the details of the engine: 400 2 bolt main, 0.030 overbore stock crank, 400 rods w/ arp bolts, keith black silvolite hyp. flat top pistons 0 dish, arp main studs,clevite 77 h-series bearings, cloyes hex-a-just timings set edelbrock victor jr heads, 70 cc chambers with 2.08/1.60 s.s. valves comp cams solid extreme energy roller cam: 248@.050, .576 lift intake, 254@.050, .582 lift exhaust, 110 lsa comp cams lifters, push rods, springs, retainers, 10 degree locks, and pro-magnum 1.5 ratio rockers weiand team g manifold #7530 holley 750 cfm 4779 carb with proform center section, 73 jets front, 83 jets rear msd hei billet distributor with moroso blue max race wires, moroso air cleaner assembly with 4" x 14" k&n air cleaner s&s headers, 1 3/4" primaries and 3" angled cutoff collector moroso 6 qt oil pan, pro-race balancer, cat 153 tooth flexplate & summit balance plate, tci gear reduction starter, wieand team g aluminum long water pump, march underdrive pulleys, erson aluminum intake cover, erson sand cast aluminum valve covers arp ss acc. bolt kit: 12 point with matching 12 point ss head bolts c/r: 10.7 fuel: 110 hp est: 500 - 525 torque est: 440 - 460 total timing: 34 degrees turbo 350 tranny, r200 3.90 diff (soon to be replaced by powerglide tranny and narrowed 12-bolt gm rear with 4.11 gears) of 4 runs at 1/8th mile track in eatonton, ga on sunday, july 22: first and worst: 7.15 seconds at 100 mph best and last: 6.85 seconds at 102 mph --> lots of wheelspin on all 4 runs; would have run more, but it was just too hot out there.... best 60' time: 1.55 seconds best 60' time on 377 was 1.44 seconds, so there is still room for improvement. i am curious what desktop dyno says about hp and torque. if anyone could run the numbers, it would be greatly appreciated. thanks

through jegs for $289, part number 475-155202-X: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3785&prmenbr=361 i'm about to order the same one

depends on the wheels. if your weld wheels are dual-pattern, usually they have 4 on 4.5 and 4 on 4.25. if that's the case, they'll fit on the hub. as long as the offset is good for the datsun, you should be good to go.

i havent seen that blue one before, but it does indeed look like someone put a lot of time and money into it. there have been quite a few discussions on this board about 2jz's and rb26dett's into early Z's. the first recommendation would be to use the search page to find which swap you are interested in. the yellow Z that was on ebay twice(?) with the 2jz was discussed, too. a good place to start with the rb26 info is stony's (now called rb26z) site: 260Z with rb26dett he's got good numbers to show what a mostly stock rb26 with an intercooler can do in a Z. happy reading

evan, i was slightly distracted by the portfolios on the bottom left, but i didnt see any listings for datsun hoods on the site.... i'm interested in seeing the huge cowl hood.