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Posts posted by dat240zg

  1. Guys:


    I'm finally finishing the LT1 swap and am now looking at the body work. The hood that I have is rust free, but creased along the ridge and would cost more to fix than its worth.


    Anyone have a stock or fiberglass hood that they are needing to part with? Also a straight passenger side headlight bezel, with or without studs?


    Parts are for a '70 240 and I'm located smack dab in the middle of the country, in NW Arkansas.






  2. Deja:


    This past weekend was radiator install time for me as well. After I mounted the JTR radiator kit, I found that I could get almost an inch of flex out of it after the fan was bolted up, so I went to Home Depot and got several L brackets and bent them to fit from the top of the Z's radiator support over to the top of the JTR radiator mount. I'll take some pics later today.



  3. My experience is also similar. I purchased the little known JCI LT1 kit thinking that for the money ($695) it would pretty much be gold plated. When it arrived, the box was beat up, the parts were dinged and everything appeared as if it had just been tossed in the box. After fitting, I found that the mounts placed the T56 about 5 inches too far forward, with the shifter coming out under the dash.


    I had done a good bit of talking with John prior to purchasing the kit, carefully going over what parts were goiing in to the car and which car it was going in. He assurred me that it would fit great. The parts were just as you described: appeared to be very well engineered, custom bent, etc. I was/am ticked off that even after talking with him about the fitment problems, he refused to do anything, claiming that it wasn't his problem. For me, $695 is a heck of a lot of money to throw away!!! I ended up using the JCI crossmember and basically the rest is JTR.


    I've tried selling the engine mounts and booklet here and can't even get $50 for them!!! So basically I paid $695 for a crossmember. :(


    Still fuming over this one.....




  4. Thanks guys. It ended up being fairly affordable as well. I had a guy come out to give me a price on the job using the mufflers I had purchased (he was pretty highly recommended from the spec Miata guys) and he quoted $1000 for 304 stainless, mandrel bent, etc!!!!! After I picked myself up off of the floor, I told him thank and to not let the garage door whack him on the head on his way out.


    I ended up purchasing all of my mufflers, bends, pipe, flanges etc. on my own and called the muffler shop that has done my Z's in the past - grand total parts and labor was just above $500. I'm really pleased with the results but the sound clips will have to wait until I get it started.


    Thanks for the compliments! It's encouraging to see the light at the end of the tunnel.



  5. I'll be honest, I'm not an engineer, don't even play one on TV, so my answer is just what I've gleaned from others.


    Based on a thread that I followed for a while, it looks like if you turned your sump around you could have a problem with fuel starvation under acceleration as the fuel moves to the back of the tank. I don't know if that would be a real problem under every day driving, but on the track I could see it causing problems.





  6. Good question. I'd bet that you could. Part of the reason that I had them weld in the sump was for the AN fittings for my fuel lines, but they could probably weld in the fittings w/out the sump. Because of the shape of the tank, I don't know if they could weld an -AN fitting low enough without the sump, but if you're staying with stock lines - feed and return - I don't see why it wouldn't work.



  7. Clive: From what I understand if the tank is baffled (like a '75 280) then there isn't a fuel starvation - or at least it's greatly reduced. The baffles within my tank are similar to a 280 tank and in addition, when the put on the sump they drilled 1" holes to add to the baffling affect.


    All this baffling is baffling....:)


    Anyways, seems like less work than the mods needed for the LS1 tank. Are you going duals for your exhaust?



  8. This has been a pretty exciting week as far as the Z goes with the fuel tank getting finished and now the exhaust done as well. System was made from 3" 304 stainless with mandrel bends. I used the Sanderson headers from the JTR swap, from there 2.5" into a Y pipe and 3" from there back. I used a Magnaflow bullet for a silencer and then a Magnaflow Stainless Steel muffler that I picked up on ebay out back.


    Here're some of the pics:








    Didn't have any problems with fitment and clearance underneath the diff (since swapped out) is fine.


    My only concern is the pipe coming off of the drivers side header is within a half an inch of the clutch slave cylinder. Anyone ever wrapped theirs with heat resistant material or anything?


    Thanks for any comments or suggestions.



  9. Just got my fuel tank back from Moyers (http://www.gas-tank.com) today and it really turned out nice. They did a whole list of things for me including:


    1. Welded Brad's 240Z sump,

    2. Deleted the factory return and feed lines and subbed an AN fitting,

    3. Welded additional baffles inside the tank,

    4. Repositioned the drain plug,

    5. Reconditioned the tank inside and out.


    If anyone else is considering getting their tank redone, this is the way to go. $350 for everything and comes with a lifetime warranty against rusting. Jim is the guy to talk with - nice guy and fairly knowledgable about Z's as well. They received the tank and had it back to me within 10 days!


    Anyways, pics are worth a thousand words so:








    Now to mount the pump, plumb the lines and get this thing running!



  10. I'll throw mine in to the ring. My car is #1792. I got it from a little divorced lady and the car had just around 80K miles and was totally stock. I'm sure that there is some special dungeon reserved for me for corrupting :) a completely stock down to the D hubcaps Z, but oh well.


    Anyways....my LT1/T56 came from a '94/95 SLP Firehawk with approx. 34K miles on it. Motor has been opened at some point, and was clean enough to eat off of. Who knows what is inside. I haven't had alot of money for performance adders, so mine is basically stock, with the exception of Barts old cold air setup, headers and 3" stainless mandrel exhaust. I tried to put money in to a really solid base, so most of my parts are higher end and should last me for a long time. Stainless braided fuel lines, Aeromotive fuel system (pump and FPR), B&M oil cooler, nismo LSD and a few other secrets.


    Mine is also going to be a daily driver, so strength and dependability were crucial.


    I'll try to get pics of my exhaust and redone fuel tank a little later this evening.




  11. C'mon.... move to the NW Arkansas area....rumors of inbreeding and other "Deliverance" activities are greatly overstated...


    Long commute is 25 min, housing is still appreciating, $250-300K still buys you a very nice home, Hallett is only a hour or two away and sheezzz...


    Dsommers and I need some more Z guys here!


    End of sales pitch.



  12. I cut off the mounts in the tunnel for my LT1/T56 swap and had to massage the tunnel a little bit by the slave cylinder. I also had to do a little hammering where the JCI crossmember was supposed to bolt up, due to the curve of the mount itselft.


    Looks fine now. One note of caution, be careful with the cutting wheel. When I was cutting away the mounts, I let it go just a little too much and ended going through both the mount and the tranny tunnel. Good lesson to take your time, move slow.



  13. Here's a long shot. When I sold the Banks kit this summer, Banks was actually the winner of the auction. The kit was from '81-'82 and was brand new. Had Rayjay turbos that were still new in the bag. They were going to take the setup and keep it for display. Might try contacting them about selling the turbos.


    Like I said, long shot....but?




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