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Posts posted by dat240zg

  1. Just thought I'd share this with you guys. I've been testing the different A-pillar gauge mounts that are supposed to work in a S30 (with modification) and just wasn't pleased with the fit.


    Instead, I came up with a simple panel that I mounted in place of the glovebox. Total cost on it is somewhere around $7.00. Took me about an hour to measure, cut and drill and then overnight for the vinyl glue to set up.


    Allows me to have 4 2 1/16 gauges that aren't regularly needed to be mounted where I can still see them from the drivers seat with the glove box door open. Also still had enough room to mount my MSD window switch. The plan is to locate my nitrous switches below the window switch, so everything can be buttoned up and out of sight.









  2. Thanks guys. I've got a few days to iron out these kinks and then try to road test it some time this weekend, weather permitting.


    Dale: you hit it exactly - I was beginning to think that the car was never gonna fire...BTW, didn't end up using the opti, but just keep the engine cover pieces. I'll be shooting the opti back to you this weekend.


    Ended up that my electrical problem was tied to the ignition switch. Had power in the key on/engine off position, but during cranking, no power. Once I figured that out, things became a little more clear.



  3. Scared the crap out of me too!!! I finally figured out the issues that were keeping it from starting and after a quick turnover, it started up!




    It's pig rich and will only stay running for a couple of seconds, but holy shnikes!


    Louder than all get out too. Man, I'm still shaking....can't believe it started...:)


    sorry....just a little excited.



  4. Yeah. After having bought the product, I'd have to agree. The only "caution" would be making certain that you have the correct fittings (correct thread pitch, tip shape, etc).


    From what I'm gathering, the flare fittings used by Datsun are different enough from others with the same thread pitch that if you used them, they would still leak (Does that make sense?).


    Maybe some of the guys that are more familiar with stock parts can chime in.



  5. I can tell you about this setup, as I was one of the first to purchase them. At that time, I had to wait for several months while they "ramped up" production. When they came, they were loosely crammed in a box, with the longer pieces bent to fit inside. The construction is nice, but the bends were not exactly the same, so you may have to tweak them to fit. The pieces definitely look good. That said, I have had persistent leaks at some of the fittings. I've worked at them, contacted Mike (owner of NOS motorsports) about the leaks and he basically blew me off.


    So, all that said, just be careful.


    Hope this helps.




  6. Guys: I know that there is a thread somewhere titled dumbest automotive screwups and this is probably going to need to be added to it.


    After all of the testing and checking and such it came down to me being an idiot. Last summer when I pulled the motor from the firehawk, I went ahead and switched out the coil and opti cover. I told the people at Jegs that it was a late '94 LT1 and so they sent me a vented cover. I didn't think anything of it until this afternoon.


    I had pulled the waterpump off of the car and was getting ready to swap in my new vented opti (Dale, you're totally correct - I now know that I need the timing cover, cam, harness, etc for the swap, not just the opti) and tested the optispark connection at the distributor for power and ground. Had both. It was then that it dawned on me about swapping out the cover and the fact that the connector for the early opti is different that the one for the later.


    Bottom line: the connector was just "sitting" in the plug, but not connected to anything.


    So to make a long story short, I'm an idiot. Sheez. So, until I can pull together the rest of the parts needed for the swap, I've purchased an early style opti cover to get the car running and I'll swap the other in when I do the hot cam kit.


    Live and learn. And kick myself.



  7. alright. Pulled the waterpump and the opti connector and have power at the yellow wire (No start document said red, but I don't have one). I'm guessing that I have a bad opti due to the fact that if I touch the first "pin" on the opti plug, my fuel pump continues to stay on.




    Getting ready to replace the opti with a later vented style.



  8. Guys:


    I'm feeling like I should be really close to getting the Z started but am stumped as to what is not functioning correctly.


    Here's the situation:


    I now have power to all the correct areas: coil, icm, and injectors. The fuel pump primes and shoots a ton of fuel out, but then when it's done priming, it shuts off (0 fuel pressure) and the computer doesn't continue sending power to the pump - during cranking there is no power at the pump.


    The harness is a speartech harness and the fuel pump is wired using the relay from the stock ECU.


    Have I wired it wrong? BTW, thank you for the pm's regarding tips; I read the LT1 no start document and others that several of you sent. It could be that I'm missing something really basic. If so, sorry!




  9. Guys:


    Let me say in advance that I've searched and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for.


    Situation is this: car cranks very nicely, fuel is getting pumped (know that due to the gallon or so that got puked on my foot) and there is power to the coil. (With the key on, I tested for power to the coil and it is there at the bottom, single pin connector. The upper "half" of the connector has no power to it.)


    However, engine won't start. Should I be getting power to the other pins? Seems too simple to say that the coil is bad, but...


    During the rebuild, the coil and opticrap cover were replaced with MSD parts.



    If any of you have any thoughts or criticisms, please, send them my way. I'd really like to have this thing running.



  10. I'm finishing up the fuel lines and have a question for you guys.


    I have modified my stock LT-1 fuel rails, removing the stock lines and had -AN fittings welded on to the rails.


    My question is this: does it matter which side feeds first?


    I'm running an Aeromotive FPR on the firewall and would like to swap the "sides" of the fuel rail: Feed to the old return side.


    I don't see a reason why it would change anything, but wanted to check first.


    Here's a pic:




    Thanks for any help you can give.




  11. Dave:


    Honestly, without taking the entire headlight assembly apart, I wouldnt be able to take a shot of it. The part that is modified is inside the "outer" assembly, which is what you see when you look at the inside of the fender. That part isn't modded. When you remove the retaining ring to change your headlight lense, you'll see that there is a larger ring (almost looks like another bucket) that the lense sits in that is used to aim the light. This is the part that I modified.


    Also, the small cut didn't weaken the piece and I didn't give up any ability to aim the headlight as well.





  12. I got the lights through Autoloc (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=hl1t). According to the packaging they are DOT approved and yes are H4 bulbs.


    The only mod that I did was to take the headlight housing apart, clean and sandblast them, trim the inner bowl/ring to allow for the turn signal socket and then spray painted them a rustoleum black.


    In all seriousness, the actual modifications took all of 10 minutes, cleaning/sandblasting/painting took an hour.


    Let me know if there is any other info that I can help you with.



  13. Jeff:


    Got your PM. I've been really pleased with the headlights that I'm running. The turn/park lights are definitely bright enough to be seen easily and the headlights themselves are great. The only downside is cost.


    The only thing that was required was a little trimming of the headlight mount bucket (the actual metal bucket that the headlight mounts in, not the sugar scoop) for the parking light. Other than that, they bolted right up.


    If you have any other questions, let me know. I'd be glad to help with any info that I have.




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