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Posts posted by dat240zg

  1. Where's the dang smiley for big grin.... :) No flaming from me, although truth be told I'm probably the last person to every be described as anal retentive.....(still chuckling about that one...)


    My point was not to say put off the swap. I'm in a different place as I had my shell completely stripped to bare metal and then began from scratch - not what most people do.


    I was more trying to get the point across that it's better to do it right the first time (making certain that you have all the parts and that everything fits) than to just throw something in and then worry about how/if it fits later.


    When I first installed the LT1 using the JCI kit, I didn't take the time to do that and had to remove the motor/tranny to bang the tunnel out on the passenger side - it was a pain in the butt and wasted a good days work.


    This time, with the JTR kit, I made certain that I had massaged the areas on #248 ahead of time, so no worries!


    BTW - mine's no trailer queen! Can't wait to get on it!



  2. Uh...you'll want to double check your info on no massaging the engine bay/tranny tunnel area. I'm just finishing my LT1/T56 project up and the area where the firewall joins the tranny tunnel needed to be widened, the tranny tunnel needed to be widened in several places, etc.


    Yours is a 280, and so may be a little wider, but I'd still double check. If you're going to dump the money and effort into the body, you don't want to be hammering it after its been painted.




  3. Alright.. I recognize that these type of questions frustrate some people, so if you're one of those, don't worry about it...


    For the rest of you, I have approximately $1000 that I can spend on the Z to boost performance. This is seperate from the restoration, so I can finally pick up a few goodies.


    Anyone want to make suggestions?


    Keep in mind one thing - dsommers is at this time building a motor that will kick my tail, and so I've got to be ready... :)


    As the car stands, I have the following as a baseline: LT1 with ported intake, 30# injectors, 52mm TB, Headers and 3" mandrel exhaust.


    Brakes have been mildly upgraded to 4 piston fronts and 240sx rears; Nismo R180 LSD and 17" wheels.


    I've installed coil overs, adjustable T/C's and camber plates.


    I'm watching a nice Nitrous setup as well as a LT4 hotcam kit.


    Anyone want to throw another couple of ideas in the ring?



  4. Sorry for the confusion...


    I have two wires from the LT1 harness that are for the backup lights (and two from the painless harness), one wire from the LT1 harness for the fuel pump (connected to a relay done by Speartech) that corresponds to two wires on the painless (one which is keyed, the other 12v from the fuse box, and two painless wires for the cooling fan switch - but the cooling fans are controlled by relays tied in to the LT1 harness.


    My first question is this: can I simply run the LT1 backup light wires directly to the backup lights and bypass the painless wires altogether?


    Secondly, couldn't I run the LT1 fuel pump wire to the keyed wire of the painless harness and bypass the 12v fuel pump wire?


    Finally, I believe that I don't even need to use the painless cooling fan switch wires as the fans are controlled by the LT1 ECU and relays - does that sound logical to you?


    Thanks for the help and patience as I try to muddle through this.



  5. Guys:


    Well, this has been a pretty frustrating week as far as the Z goes. I hate to think of how many hours I've spent trying to get just a few wires finished....


    My first question is this: for the backup lights, the fuel pump power relay and the cooling fan "switch", do I use the speartech harness/LT1 harness leads (I'm assuming I do, but you know what happens when you assume) or the painless harness wires or both?


    Sorry for questions that I'm sure are very simple for others.....couldn't find the painless harness for dummies book.


    Any help would be greatly appreciated!





  6. I've been talking to Eiji, at Datsun Spirit. He has a line on JDM reproduction kits that look really nice. They look identical to the OEM Nissan covers. I've been looking for a set for some time, and if it weren't for the fact that I'd have to drill on my new paint job, I'd be all over a set of his - $375.


    PM me if you want the link.



  7. The headlights are autoloc brand: http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=hl1t


    I had to modify the inner headlight mounting "ring" just a bit due to the turn signal bulb, but when it is all assembled, there is no evidence.


    I'm really excited about becoming a dad - my wife and I have waited 8 years. I found a place that will print me up a toddler outfit that will say "My dad's HybridZ will kick your dads car" or something along those lines. :)



  8. Had the chance to work on the car this weekend and finally feel like I'm making reasonable progress...


    Got the underhood wiring all but finished - re-reouted, re-wrapped and in its final position. It's nice to only have one main harness all neat and tidy. Also got the Honda wiper motor mounted and wired up and attached to the reconditioned wiper arms.


    Here is the pic of the wiper valence area - the relays are all mounted and the wires wrapped for (hopefully) the last time. I was surprised with the amount of space that I ended up with:




    Also, got the new headlights in. These are similar to the ones that a few of the other guys have - the turn signal/parking light is incorporated into the bottome of the lense:




    Also, got the hood mounted - I tell you what, if you have to replace a fender, don't buy aftermarket!!! I've had more issues with fittment due to that fender than any other part. Problem area for now is the way that the inspection panels (don't) fit.... :(




    Shooting for the Christmas break to get her running! (Also...just found out that I'm going to be a Dad!!!!!!!)


    It's been a great weekend!!!



  9. Thanks guys. I'm kind of baffled on this one. I was careful when installing the lines, the fittings are tight, but not so tight that they would damage threads. I believe that I've covered all the bases, but still the leaks?


    One thing that is weird is that the booster is new, but the hose is not connected to the LT1 or the check valve. Still after pumping the brakes (to bleed) the pedal responds like there is a buildup of vacuum that is not allowing the pedal to return the whole way.


    Does this sound weird to anyone else?



  10. This has me pulling out the last 2 hairs on my head!!! All of the brake parts on the car are brand new - the power booster, the M/C, the brake distribution block, the lines, the hoses and the calipers.


    The M/C has been bench bled, the lines are all tight, and I've been working at bleeding the calipers. Problem is, I have leaks at one of the front calipers and at the brake distribution block on the side of the engine bay. I have taken the lines off and checked the threads and there is no sign of damage.


    Also, I should mention that the power booster is not hooked up to the motor, so no vacuum. When bleeding, at first I get no pedal, and then after a good while, the pedal begins to not return the whole way(!?).


    What in the wide wide world of sports is going on? Anyone have any thoughts????


    Until then, I'll go back to banging my head!!!!



  11. Thanks again guys. I'm pumped that the motor is in finally! I'm getting ready to go out and get working on it some more.....


    I've got to be honest, I'm dreading finishing up the wiring - that's where my skills run out - anyone want to make the trip to Arkansas for a wiring party? :)



  12. Today it happened! I was finally able to get the LT1 bolted up in the Z. I'm really pumped - with the motor in I can make the most of the Thanksgiving holiday.


    Big thanks to dsommers for loaning me his hoist and load leveler. Also, my father-in-law gave up his afternoon (and the Colts game) and between the two of us we were able to get the motor in place in just a couple of hours.


    Nothing earth shattering, but in truth, it's a huge relief to have this thing in!


    Here are a couple of pics:










    Getting close! I'll have the body panels back on in a few days, radiator, oil cooler, a/c condensor and the spoiler on by the end of the holiday.


    Woo hoo!

  13. Phantaz:


    If you check, I believe that that is the rate that they ship it at. My Type 3 definitely did not weigh 150, much less 50. Mine fit so poorly when I first got it that I called up Sal (when he was at MSA) and he credited me $50. It took alot more than that in hours at the body shop to make it fit.

  14. Good points....whatever water does get to the valence area will be indirect. I test fitted the ECU there with the valence cover in place and the computer is completely covered.


    The ECU itself is mounted at an angle so that any water will drain away from the computer itself. Also, I raised the ECU by 1/2" by using nylon spacers hard mounted to the bottom of the factory mounting bracket, so the ecu is off of the metal, with plenty of space for water run off.


    Of course, that's all theroy, as the car hasn't moved under its own power in around uh....26 years. :)


    The car will be driven, but not as a DD - hopefully not when I know that rain will be in forecasted as well.


    As I get farther along in the wiring process, I'll take more pics.


    Thanks for the input.



  15. Thanks for the input that you guys gave regarding potentially cutting the LT1 harness. I didn't end up needing to cut the harness and instead was able to feed it through the backside out into the engine bay.


    Here are a few pics of the way that I ran the harness for the lighting, horns etc and then also the way that the LT1 ECU is mounted:


    Wiper Valence area with airbox removed:




    Wires feed through the firewall here (harness on left goes to the LT1 harness, harness on right is lighting, etc)




    Lighting wires lead into the air vent tubes and then out a grommet towards the front of the car.




    From there they go into the side of the base of the radiator support and out the other side:




    In the middle, the wires for the cooling fan and horns come out nicely (since the pic, they have been grommetted and covered:




    Here are pics of the ECU mounted (the ECU is mounted using part of the factory mount and several spacers to lift it up off the metal:








    Currently, the wiring is being cleaned up where the harness exits the firewall. Due to moving the harness closer, I now have a good foot of extra harness that's taking up a lot of space. There is just enough space for all of the relays, etc. to fit and be covered up! Nice and clean.





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