dat240zg

Good point on the injectors. I'll head out to test them in a minute. Thanks for the suggestion. Bryan

Well, tested it and no spark at the plugs; looks like there's no spark leaving the coil either. Anyone have any other thoughts? Bryan

I'm going to head out there and give it a shot. Thanks. Bryan

Guys: Let me say in advance that I've searched and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for. Situation is this: car cranks very nicely, fuel is getting pumped (know that due to the gallon or so that got puked on my foot) and there is power to the coil. (With the key on, I tested for power to the coil and it is there at the bottom, single pin connector. The upper "half" of the connector has no power to it.) However, engine won't start. Should I be getting power to the other pins? Seems too simple to say that the coil is bad, but... During the rebuild, the coil and opticrap cover were replaced with MSD parts. If any of you have any thoughts or criticisms, please, send them my way. I'd really like to have this thing running. Bryan

I'm finishing up the fuel lines and have a question for you guys. I have modified my stock LT-1 fuel rails, removing the stock lines and had -AN fittings welded on to the rails. My question is this: does it matter which side feeds first? I'm running an Aeromotive FPR on the firewall and would like to swap the "sides" of the fuel rail: Feed to the old return side. I don't see a reason why it would change anything, but wanted to check first. Here's a pic: Thanks for any help you can give. Bryan Dat240zg

Dave: Honestly, without taking the entire headlight assembly apart, I wouldnt be able to take a shot of it. The part that is modified is inside the "outer" assembly, which is what you see when you look at the inside of the fender. That part isn't modded. When you remove the retaining ring to change your headlight lense, you'll see that there is a larger ring (almost looks like another bucket) that the lense sits in that is used to aim the light. This is the part that I modified. Also, the small cut didn't weaken the piece and I didn't give up any ability to aim the headlight as well. HTH. Bryan

Thanks for the pics guys. I purchased a billet tank and am going to mount it on the passenger side of the radiator support. Bryan

I got the lights through Autoloc (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=hl1t). According to the packaging they are DOT approved and yes are H4 bulbs. The only mod that I did was to take the headlight housing apart, clean and sandblast them, trim the inner bowl/ring to allow for the turn signal socket and then spray painted them a rustoleum black. In all seriousness, the actual modifications took all of 10 minutes, cleaning/sandblasting/painting took an hour. Let me know if there is any other info that I can help you with. Bryan

Oops. Forgot to post the pics: Outside: Parking lights: Headlights on: Hope these help. Bryan

Jeff: Got your PM. I've been really pleased with the headlights that I'm running. The turn/park lights are definitely bright enough to be seen easily and the headlights themselves are great. The only downside is cost. The only thing that was required was a little trimming of the headlight mount bucket (the actual metal bucket that the headlight mounts in, not the sugar scoop) for the parking light. Other than that, they bolted right up. If you have any other questions, let me know. I'd be glad to help with any info that I have. Bryan Dat240zg

Bill: Well, I sorted one problem to get another. I was getting so ticked off at the car that I had to leave it be for a while - my wife thought that I had cut my arm off or something... I think that the new years day goal may have been a little lofty for me. I had a bunch of parts that I was depending on that got hung up due to new years, so...maybe this weekend. Bryan

Yup. Some guys struggle with shlong envy, I just struggle with running Z envy. Bill: any chance that you might have a short video of the Z running? Bryan

Congrats Bill! Good to here that yours is up and running. Bryan Dat240zg

Where's the dang smiley for big grin.... No flaming from me, although truth be told I'm probably the last person to every be described as anal retentive.....(still chuckling about that one...) My point was not to say put off the swap. I'm in a different place as I had my shell completely stripped to bare metal and then began from scratch - not what most people do. I was more trying to get the point across that it's better to do it right the first time (making certain that you have all the parts and that everything fits) than to just throw something in and then worry about how/if it fits later. When I first installed the LT1 using the JCI kit, I didn't take the time to do that and had to remove the motor/tranny to bang the tunnel out on the passenger side - it was a pain in the butt and wasted a good days work. This time, with the JTR kit, I made certain that I had massaged the areas on #248 ahead of time, so no worries! BTW - mine's no trailer queen! Can't wait to get on it! Bryan

Uh...you'll want to double check your info on no massaging the engine bay/tranny tunnel area. I'm just finishing my LT1/T56 project up and the area where the firewall joins the tranny tunnel needed to be widened, the tranny tunnel needed to be widened in several places, etc. Yours is a 280, and so may be a little wider, but I'd still double check. If you're going to dump the money and effort into the body, you don't want to be hammering it after its been painted. Bryan Dat240zg

Which motor? I'm just finishing the painless harness wiring and the wires are really similar to the ezwiring kit (had one of those as well). Bryan

Just like the title says, I'm getting ready to mount my overflow tank and am curious what others have done. Bryan Dat240zg Count down is on! The beast will be running by new years day....or else!!!

I've been looking long and hard at that one, but there's mucho work to be done and at the money he's asking, no profit to be made by buying and parting. Tempting though. Bryan