dat240zg

Didn't know about the R180 kit - honestly, now that Gabe has his parts in line for the rear end swap, I've been considering going with a R230 (and that may be where I put the $). Bryan

BTW, Grumpy, thanks for the good links - more reading material for the evening! Bryan

All good ideas - I forgot to mention that when the body was done, we installed the bad dog rails and installed a 6 point cage, harnesses and '07 Miata seats (I'm too tall for other more common racey seats). Bryan

Alright.. I recognize that these type of questions frustrate some people, so if you're one of those, don't worry about it... For the rest of you, I have approximately $1000 that I can spend on the Z to boost performance. This is seperate from the restoration, so I can finally pick up a few goodies. Anyone want to make suggestions? Keep in mind one thing - dsommers is at this time building a motor that will kick my tail, and so I've got to be ready... As the car stands, I have the following as a baseline: LT1 with ported intake, 30# injectors, 52mm TB, Headers and 3" mandrel exhaust. Brakes have been mildly upgraded to 4 piston fronts and 240sx rears; Nismo R180 LSD and 17" wheels. I've installed coil overs, adjustable T/C's and camber plates. I'm watching a nice Nitrous setup as well as a LT4 hotcam kit. Anyone want to throw another couple of ideas in the ring? Bryan

Guys: Thanks for simplifying what has had me pulling out my last two hairs. I'm working to identify which which is which this weekend and as soon as my battery cables get here, I'll be able to begin testing circuits. Bryan

Sorry for the confusion... I have two wires from the LT1 harness that are for the backup lights (and two from the painless harness), one wire from the LT1 harness for the fuel pump (connected to a relay done by Speartech) that corresponds to two wires on the painless (one which is keyed, the other 12v from the fuse box, and two painless wires for the cooling fan switch - but the cooling fans are controlled by relays tied in to the LT1 harness. My first question is this: can I simply run the LT1 backup light wires directly to the backup lights and bypass the painless wires altogether? Secondly, couldn't I run the LT1 fuel pump wire to the keyed wire of the painless harness and bypass the 12v fuel pump wire? Finally, I believe that I don't even need to use the painless cooling fan switch wires as the fans are controlled by the LT1 ECU and relays - does that sound logical to you? Thanks for the help and patience as I try to muddle through this. Bryan

Guys: Well, this has been a pretty frustrating week as far as the Z goes. I hate to think of how many hours I've spent trying to get just a few wires finished.... My first question is this: for the backup lights, the fuel pump power relay and the cooling fan "switch", do I use the speartech harness/LT1 harness leads (I'm assuming I do, but you know what happens when you assume) or the painless harness wires or both? Sorry for questions that I'm sure are very simple for others.....couldn't find the painless harness for dummies book. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Bryan Dat240zg

I've been talking to Eiji, at Datsun Spirit. He has a line on JDM reproduction kits that look really nice. They look identical to the OEM Nissan covers. I've been looking for a set for some time, and if it weren't for the fact that I'd have to drill on my new paint job, I'd be all over a set of his - $375. PM me if you want the link. Bryan

The headlights are autoloc brand: http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=hl1t I had to modify the inner headlight mounting "ring" just a bit due to the turn signal bulb, but when it is all assembled, there is no evidence. I'm really excited about becoming a dad - my wife and I have waited 8 years. I found a place that will print me up a toddler outfit that will say "My dad's HybridZ will kick your dads car" or something along those lines. Bryan

Had the chance to work on the car this weekend and finally feel like I'm making reasonable progress... Got the underhood wiring all but finished - re-reouted, re-wrapped and in its final position. It's nice to only have one main harness all neat and tidy. Also got the Honda wiper motor mounted and wired up and attached to the reconditioned wiper arms. Here is the pic of the wiper valence area - the relays are all mounted and the wires wrapped for (hopefully) the last time. I was surprised with the amount of space that I ended up with: Also, got the new headlights in. These are similar to the ones that a few of the other guys have - the turn signal/parking light is incorporated into the bottome of the lense: Also, got the hood mounted - I tell you what, if you have to replace a fender, don't buy aftermarket!!! I've had more issues with fittment due to that fender than any other part. Problem area for now is the way that the inspection panels (don't) fit.... Shooting for the Christmas break to get her running! (Also...just found out that I'm going to be a Dad!!!!!!!) It's been a great weekend!!! Bryan

I say shave 'em! And go for the black hood.... I'm just partial though... Bryan

Thanks guys. I'm kind of baffled on this one. I was careful when installing the lines, the fittings are tight, but not so tight that they would damage threads. I believe that I've covered all the bases, but still the leaks? One thing that is weird is that the booster is new, but the hose is not connected to the LT1 or the check valve. Still after pumping the brakes (to bleed) the pedal responds like there is a buildup of vacuum that is not allowing the pedal to return the whole way. Does this sound weird to anyone else? Bryan

Terry: The lines were OEM replacement, (although I'm beginning to wonder if they're the problem). I'm heading back out to the garage to check for the copper washers - I guess that it's possible that I could have overlooked them. Thanks. Bryan

This has me pulling out the last 2 hairs on my head!!! All of the brake parts on the car are brand new - the power booster, the M/C, the brake distribution block, the lines, the hoses and the calipers. The M/C has been bench bled, the lines are all tight, and I've been working at bleeding the calipers. Problem is, I have leaks at one of the front calipers and at the brake distribution block on the side of the engine bay. I have taken the lines off and checked the threads and there is no sign of damage. Also, I should mention that the power booster is not hooked up to the motor, so no vacuum. When bleeding, at first I get no pedal, and then after a good while, the pedal begins to not return the whole way(!?). What in the wide wide world of sports is going on? Anyone have any thoughts???? Until then, I'll go back to banging my head!!!! Bryan

Thanks again guys. I'm pumped that the motor is in finally! I'm getting ready to go out and get working on it some more..... I've got to be honest, I'm dreading finishing up the wiring - that's where my skills run out - anyone want to make the trip to Arkansas for a wiring party? Bryan

Thanks guys. Trust me, when the motor is finally running, there'll be a new foggy for the sig pic! The mounts are the JTR plates and the tranny mount is the John's cars. The tranny is the T-56. Bryan

Today it happened! I was finally able to get the LT1 bolted up in the Z. I'm really pumped - with the motor in I can make the most of the Thanksgiving holiday. Big thanks to dsommers for loaning me his hoist and load leveler. Also, my father-in-law gave up his afternoon (and the Colts game) and between the two of us we were able to get the motor in place in just a couple of hours. Nothing earth shattering, but in truth, it's a huge relief to have this thing in! Here are a couple of pics: Getting close! I'll have the body panels back on in a few days, radiator, oil cooler, a/c condensor and the spoiler on by the end of the holiday. Woo hoo!