DAT240Z

I would like to know what you guys think of this turbo engine idea. I would like to put my p-90 head on a f 54 block with top pistons, I will swap the oil pan to a turbo pan. The one think I have not figure out yet is what to do about a knock sensor. I was looking up engine build combo on this program lengine, buy putting the p-90 on a f 54 flat top piston will give 8:5:1 compression. I just wonder if this would be a good set up, please all input are welcome.

Hi just wanted to thank everyone that replied to my post. I got the car fixed and she back to her old kick-### self again. Turns out my AFM was bad after replacing ECU, checking the TPS, plugs, distributor, fuel pump ect. I swap out the AFM with a BACK backup unit I have and the car runs great took it to work today no problem to night on the way home the temp out side was 58 and the car really liked that cold air. It pull really hard, ready for the weekend now

My pulley got borken when it fell off so did the keyway, I replaced the pulley and keyway with on of a 280zx.

I'm sure it the engine maybe jerking is not the right term, but it not my tires, if stumbling is when the car lunches than that is what I'm trying to discrabe. Its like when you hit the rew limiter and the car seams to fall on it face.

Hi NIC I have not check my timming,or my plugs as of yet i would check the plugs today before i leave for work, During quick accelerations i dont notice the car jerking, it does it mostly at speed, when i drive in town the car does not jerk. Yesterday was the frist time it did a lot of jerking all though the driving range and the was after i got off the highway, where it did a lot of jering while i was driving. Last night when i left work the car ran great at low speeds 50 or below when i would try to acelerate from about 55mhp the car jerked alot when i back off the gas ti settled down and run fine.

I replaced the fuel pump, EUC, disturbater and the car still jerk hesitate. today on my way to work it would run find under 55mph. when i get on the gas it started to jerk, when i exited the highway the car cut off i had to down shift and got off the clutch and it started again but it would jurk and hesitate when i try to give it gas. at one point i was on the gas but could tell the car was not acclerating. I'm stumped as to what my probllem could be. I was thinking of replacing the TPS, not sure but just running out of ideas. My crankshaft pulley fell out a few weeks ago, i remember about two day befor the pulley fell off the car started jerking, I'm not sure if this has anything to do with my problem but, what i wounder is if the bolt was loose those two day when the problem started and if my timming may have jumped. The car ran great before the pulley fell off.

Dvae I have a 75 280z fuel tank, I replaced the fuel pump today and the car still jerks, I notice this problem two days after i installed my LSD. but I don't think that has anything to do with. Tomorrow i am goint to switch out the disturbuter and see what it does. I was wouldering if it could be a stretched timing chain. Can someone tell what are the sings of a bad timing chain.

I have a 83zxt in my 240z, lately the car had been running bad, what I mean is when driving the car serge, hesitate, jerks in the high RPM range I don't have any idea where to start checking. Today I put some cleaner in the fuel and went for a drive it jerked a couple of time and than ran great for about 5mins. and than started jerking, hesitating again. another thing I notice is when this is happening the tack jumps all over the place up and down. Any ideas guys on what could be me problem?

I have a 83zxt engine and management system in my 240z, the car ran great till last Saturday when the batt. acid boil out. I replaced the voltages regulator, and batt. the car have been running rich since than. I check and replaced the head temp. sensor temp sensor, thermo time sensor, AFM, ECU, I also clean all the connectors nothing had help the car still runs rich i have been through four sets of plugs, just installed new plug wires. the car is hard to start and my plugs are black . i have to disconnect the fuel pump at the relay and crank for a bit to get it to start that hook the wire back to the relay. Now I wonder if I may have bad distributor as it's just about the only thing i have not replaced.what are the symptoms of a dissy going bad? Please help as I missed driving my car.

I have done the swap and it great only running 9lbs. of boost as i have not installed the intercooler. my question is what wire goes to the water temp. sensor there are two wires on the 83 turbo harness one white and the other is yellow? i know the yellow on the 240z went to the guage in the car but it looks like the EUC. get a singal from the temp sensor for fuel mixter. For those of you that have done the swap how did you hook up you wire for the guage in the car? what i did was tie the yellow wire from the 240z harness to the white wire in the turbo harness and than pulg the white wrie to the temp sensor is this right? and i hooked the yellow wire from the turbo harness to the sensor for the injector fan, is this right. PS. Can someone with a 280zxt looking at the wires on ther car and let me know what wire goes where?

Thanks Tony

I notice the wire for my thermal transmitter sensor have broken off and needing replace, what I'm wondering about is that dose the sensor do and is there anything being effected because it's not connected? Could this cause a high idle, and bad gas mileage?

I notice the wire for my thermal transmitter sensor have broken off and needing replace, what I'm wondering about is that dose the sensor do and is there anything being effected because it's not connected? Could this cause a high idle, and bad gas mileage?

I have a 76 280z gas tank in my 240zt, I don't think my gauge is reading accurately what I was wondering is do I have to get a float for a 240z, is the 280z float not compatible with the gauge in the 240z. Anyone that has done this swap have this problem?

I notice that the car pull good to 3-3500 rpm, than it seams like it running lean not much power than around 4krpms it take off and pulls all the way to the red line, when does boost kicks, somehow I was thinking around 3k is when it should kick in. I just clean all my connectors. is there to check and see if i'm running lean around 3-4k rpm.

Nat I have new wires, plugs, cap rotor. one thing I have notice is that car only runs when the timing is fully retarded, if I try to advance it just little it runs shitty and have no pull to it. At idle it jumps around from 1k to 500 and dies any ideas?

Hi, my rear end is stock, and i'm running 195/60/14 tires

Yesterday I fill up my tank and went on a 210 mile trip at 105 miles my gas gauge was reading a little less than 1/2 full so I fill up and check my miles it took 6.8 gallons to fill the tank( 76Z). Which amount to 15.4 mpg? I was hoping to do better than that or am I wrong. I was thinking around 25mpg. This is the set up I have 83zxt, 1980 sp. and the stock 240z rear end I'm running about 8-9psi boost. I did notice at 70mph the rpm was around 3500, that seam a bit high. Is three a better tranny, rear end combo that would give me better mpg with good performance?

When I set my car (83ZXT) to TDC (timing mark on the sprocket and the line on the cam plate are lined up, the mark on the crank pulley is lined up at the 0 degree mark, the cam lobes are up and the valves are closed). I pull the distributor cap and the rotor is between the #5 and # 1 plugs. Shouldn't the rotor face the # 1 plug at TDC? Also when I put a timing light on the car it was at 32 degrees advanced, I moved the distributor the other way to lower the advanced and the car ran worse that's when I though to check the timing marks. I set the car to TDC, 4 times and every time the rotor was facing between the two plugs 5 and 1. What could cause this would the distributor shaft happened to be off a bit? Is it possible to pull the oil pump and turn the shaft a tooth or two to get the rotor to line up with the # 1 plug?

thnaks Tony

I have a 280zxt in my 240z i was looking at the wiring list posted, and have a? i hope you guys can help me with. on the plug #2 there are two yellow wires, one for the A/C and other for the start signal this is the one i having problems with see how do i tell which one is the start signal as the are both on the same plug. i have not hook that wire up yet, the car does run and drives What does that wire do, and when i figure out which one it is does it go to a hot + source all the time when the car is running or should it only go hot when I'm cranking the car over and when the car stars it should go dead? thanks

so when i install my intercooler that would be a good time to up grade to the 450sel. injectors?I have read that the stock 280zxt seytem is good to around 270hp or so what would i need to do to get to that point, max.out the stock syetem. What is the max. boost i can run to get there safetly thanks

IF I WERE TO RUN SAY 8 PIS. OF BOOST WITHOUT AN INTERCOOLER AND THAN INSTALL A INTERCOOLER AND RUN THE SAME 8PIS OF BOOST.WILL I NOTICE AN AN INCEASE IN POWER? CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN IF YES OR NO

I finally got the 83 turbo motor in the 240z and running althought not quit well yet, thanks to all that have responded to my posts. My next question is the vacuum solenoid that mounts under the AFM., where does the lines connect to? I know the big one in the middle goes to the AFM boot, also know that one of the small lines goes to the EGR but i'm not sure which one, can some one take a look at their car and the me where the lines connect to. A lso there's a small vacuum line that is connected to the vacuum canister where does this one connect to as well. I got scotties downpipe and there is not a opening for the piping that runs down from the EGR to DP. like the stock one has, Can i plug the EGR, will i have any problems if i do?