roninjiro

thats what ive done and it runs really good only smoked b/c of bad valve stem seals. now replaced them and it runs extremely well

k

btw, tony seriously no hard feelings. quite honestly this is just something to play with as you did in the past

btw, the 4 barrel carb and turbo thing is a great thing, but want to work with what i have spare of to play with. thanxs for the info on it though.

i guess your nickname is "god" b/c you do know all chap! apparently you keep bringing up phyisics , but you dont explore all possiblities within its "physical extent", b/f failer (closed minded). no one said that you you are WRONG about everything, but you do get quite pissy when it comes to what is the complete truth and not partial truth. like i said b/f, "yay" you have experience! good for you!!! but do you really think, b/c it hasnt been successfully done that it cant be just as good as anything else? btw you write alot!!! anyhow; you are determined to "dominate this thread" well you know what go for it! just remember good things can come from ideas and so can bad things. now let me ask you this, "have you explored ALL modifications to make a brass float not collapse after 10psi?". what about what some people do with the floats.... lets say reinforcing them with brazed on tubing so it doesnt collapse under higher boost levels "explain to me how a boost-indexted FPR works,and why?" so we can see just what exactly you are trying to say. "did i say you cant use water/methonal injection?" last i check i wrote "air" aka, intercooler. <---maybe i should have specified for "you" "why should the fuel pump only be 14psi and not higher?" b/c i didnt say that was the max. "why feel insulted about what you HAVEN'T done yet?" you have not, i repeat, have not done this combo b/f according to your statments. what i was trying to say b/f you misunderstood it, was that if you properly take the time to think it out, proceed and plan, then adjust to likeable reasoning thats what your results will be. "why do you think im ignoring you? was it something i said?" where are you getting that from tony? its like buying a car here, you have to compare all designs of the different cars.... i dont understand why you are so uptight about this. "whats wrong with uniqueness? who said uniqueness cant be efficent?" think about this a "vapor" carb by Charles Nelson Pogue. many say it was fake, a myth, or just flat out didnt happen. well if you believe it didnt well, back it up b/c if you use "physics" it is possible. btw, from various patents, it was efficent, and just as good as the other carburetors when it came to power difference. "who is making stuff up tony?" when i say RESEARCH, i mean looking into the matter, from "other" peoples experiences, and proven methods of doing this kind of setup. "what is there not to understand about throttle response?" i hope you realize that if fuel has to travel a longer length to get to the chamber, the response wont be as quick. "lets see, less fuel from one carb, or more fuel from two; whats more logical?" atomizing fuel through a turbocharge good; less fuel no good. how about you stick two carbs before that turbo and we call that even? lol. "pressure leak vs. vaccum leak?" either way your pretty motor will go boom, by fuel fumes from pressure leaks (fire or explosion under the hood) or death by detonation due to lean conditions. which is safer, i think detonation. "why is it that tunning cant be easier on a blow though setup?" it seems with the 4 barrel guys just upgrade the jets for enrichment with the boost-indexted FPR "btw, im ignorant?" no my friend for me accually looking into this subject through other references and bringing it to your attention, then you calling me a liar, or telling me i make stuff up. nope, i do believe your the ignorant one. james (p.s. we can still be friends right?)

no highjack intended..... hey datsunlover the same thing happens to me all the time at the autoparts stores!!! i hate that.

how far are ya now OTM? and hows it looking?

i understand what you are saying, but what D said "And we are pursuing this WHY again?". that is IMO an atempt to shut someone down.... see what im saying? of course EFI is easier, but what about uniqueness? just to be different and successfull is how i operate, the "odd one" you might say. but i challange you on lean spots OTM. when you have EFI even in testing you will hit lean spots if you have little experience with setting the system up; as with carburetion. take pros from both catagories and i pretty sure that both can get almost the same results w/ different methods of getting those results. what i am trying to say is, "anything is possible, but are you good at it is the question." this seems to be territory were skill comes into play. can you design, build, modify, tune, and be successful? thats basically what it comes down to in the end.

sry to bump a thread back to carburetrion but i have read and read and it is very possible and CAN be very effiecient to boost the su carbies. if you really study in comparison which is better, draw through, blow though you might see where im coming from. draw through: 1. carb must be sealed & pressurized (yes you can get a solid float, or mod the old one) 2. ability to use an FMIC 3. throttle response instant 4. must use a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator 5. YOU CAN BOOST HIGHER THAN 10PSI 6. You will have to go with about a 14 psi fuel pump (see 4) draw though 1. easy, factory method 2. cant use any type of air cooler 3. tuning is more critical 4. fuel to all 6 cylinders with one carb evenly is unheard of 5. throttle response is sluggish at first. 6. no big worry of carb vacuum leaks i read and read and read through a turbocharging book that had turbocharging with carburetors (Maximum boost) and the hot rod mag site, and the long search through google. anyways the conclusion is that what you did, draw through, is TOTALLY different than what a blow though set up. sry, if im out of line about the way i addressed this b/c maybe some of us (me) do want to pursue this and when your one a "hybrid" z site, you figure people would be more open minded about it. but then again what do i know, i guess i read too much

so it that much bad of an idea huh?, ok.

do go into detail woldson

sounds like you either left a bleed valve open, or you master cylinder is bad

got plugs and drove few more miles, doesnt smoke while drivining the car, but does at idle occasionally, would have driven it more, but the most stupidest thing on my part happened! i never tightend the oil pan plug, so my z out of nowhere was engulfed in smoke, i pulled to the next street and checked under the car, huge pool of oil and a long trail of oil behind me. anyhow got another plug and refilled oil and drove home.

well guys, just got the new cam in and got that dang tensioner back on, and all i gotta do is get some 240z plugs and im good to go (hopfully)

screwed up and timing chain fell, so much for that. ive just about had it with this motor!!!!

food for thought, i am using spark plugs for an efi system, most likely are too cold a plug. im going to go by some ngks for a 240z, last time i had this motor together and running i had those and had no problems, we will se what happens. check alternator and fixed that, was only getting 11 volts, now geting 14. i also didnt take out the turbo cam, so maybe i should take it out now, or is there really a difference? i will also check the valve stem seals and see how they are looking while the valve cover is off, quite honestly i never looked at them to see if they ripped, (were new when rebuilt year ago.) FWIW the ring are definitly not seated yet

ok, after long searches ive come to this, my ignition system is very weak as i dont have the original ignition system on it

took it out for a spin again for a couple of miles after the gas station, definitely less smoke while driving, but when i come to a stop it starts to build up a bit and i still keep fouling plugs. dark grey, none sooty. btw i did notice something, when taking a timing light to each wire, the closer to the plug i go the less it triggers the timing light. what does that mean??? im using taylor 8mm wires, ngk plugs

ok, just test drove it with clean plugs leaned out the mixture almost to its max, the timing had to be adjusted a lil and it kind of hesitates a lil, but still has plenty of power BUT LESS SMOKE! going to go out and drive some more. brb

plugs 6 5 and WET #4 plugs 3 2 1 the wet plug think beside the fact im running supper rich that #4 cylinder is my problem, appears to be oil residue. right now im thinking its just a valve seal b/c before it got it running again, this engine was sitting about a year i think..... btw Daniel ANY info from you helps!, so thanx ahead of time what is the best way to clean plugs? b/c all i do is a wirebrush. after i get these plugs cleaned im doing what Daniel said, and driving it smoke or no smoke!!!!

will do right now

2 miles on it, cant go any further b/c it smokes so much. no, valves all adjusted; but now it misfires b/c plugs are fouled

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v319/madisonA/?action=view&current=DSCF0001.flv

lol, told ya its alot of smoke. rings were ground down to whatever the haynes book said to do when you put it in the bore. rings are 180 degree staggered... bottom oil scavenger rings bottom ring gap 180 to the top scavenger ring, and the spring thing is opening is halfway between those. HELLLPPPP!!!!

gonna post a vid, smoke looks blue in the light, not totally convinced its not the headgasket as if it was that would be better then bad block or something. btw plugs are soot black now see post #42