Drax240z

This sounds like a really promising potential cantidate. Too bad they aren't around in junkyards yet. I wonder how much the aftermarket will supply for them... ------------------ Richard Lewis

Oh no worries, there will be pics. Once the plastic is down and stuff. I've been documenting everything with pictures. No portable digital camera yet, so it does take me a bit of time to get them online. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Well just my engine bay. Get this: the local body shop gave me paint, hardener, and reducer, as well as lent me a HVLP spray gun for absolutely free. What an awesome shop. Well I've allready told them that they will be getting my buisiness when it comes to the rest of the car. I went with a 1 stage on the engine bay, and they are going to base/clear the outside when the time comes. Colour. Well there is no turning back now! I picked out a medium shade metallic blue. Upon spraying, its a lot more purple than I had thought! However, I love it. I really hadn't planned on the purple tint, I was looking more for a neutral blue. (I didn't like the slight green tints in other colours either) But as it turned out, it looks great. Little things I leant than I can pass on. Make darn sure that your gun is set correctly before you turn it on the car. I thought it was, looked good. Then I sprayed and it was way way way too much paint. (yes I have some runs) If not for that little bit, I'd have zero runs. Also, that paint is DAMN sticky. Make sure you give yourself enough room away from your plastic or it will stick to you. Definately a learning experience. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Dual pickup is for an auto. I put one of those on my 5spd 240 and managed to get it working quite well by removing one pickup. I believe (and don't quote me) that I removed the pickup closest to the engine, and left the otherone right where it was. With both in, the car had a terrible misfire. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Hmm interesting. Well I just shelled out the money for the DF, so there is no turning back just now. I'm going to be running fairly conservative off the start however, still with the stock turbo and injectors. (for how long, I don't know... I'm hoping to put my time and money towards other parts of the car for a while) Definately interested in hearing how the 6 puck feels once you get a chance to drive it. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Euro, I dont' really remember what engine you are running. But a 500cc injector is pretty damn big, and will support (a guess) probably around 450hp. JWT is expensive for their reprogrammed computers, which is why I went with SDS. More flexability, and it costs less or the same. I can't really help you out with the nitrous stuff. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Scottie - Check inside the snail for small animals. And large ones. I have a feeling that minced cow would slow down your spool up. Other ideas - Trying buying one of those electric superchargers to supercharge your exhaust. Yeah, thats it. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I just bought a centerforce Dual friction from Lordco in naniamo, mike. $400. T.O. bearing and pilot bushing were $25 and $6 more. (all in canadian funds) CFII were $350. I got these at cost, using a few connections. (friend of a friend of a friend) ------------------ Richard Lewis

Ah, the town of my birth! Good old Drunken Duncan. You are sooooo in luck. I know where your future car is, and the beauty is that its right in your home town! I will email you with the rest of the details, rather than place the persons addy and number on here for anyone to see. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Hehe. I used to work at a coal mine in northern British Columbia, really fun stuff. I was working it the heavy duty shop, and I would say for the first 2 weeks I was there, the scale of EVERYTHING amazed me. Torquing things to 1100+ft-lbs (by hand!!), stuff like that. The biggest machines we had were the Cat 994. And wow! 412,000lbs of beauty! I had a day there where I was changing 6 wheels on a 789. Full day job, each wheel weighs 5 tons! 32 bolts on each wheel, torqued to 750lb-ft. I was one tired boy! If you get the chance, go on a tour of a place like this. It'll blow your mind. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Well I'm running the 240mm with the Centerforce Dual Friction. I'm a little surprised with how low those numbers are Tim. (though I am not disputing them) So if the 225mm is maxed at about 250lb-ft, then the 240mm may run as high as what? 300lb-ft? Thats not a lot! (well it is, and it isn't) My question is, whats the next step above the CFDF? Stiffer pressure plate...? ------------------ Richard Lewis

Ah finally the link works! What a car! I've seen that airdam before at zdriver.com and I love it. There are a couple pictures of the same car (I think its the same car) in the members rides pages there. I would love to find out where this one is from. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I found the miata seats really nice and supportive the last time I sat in a miata. One thing to consider is that we are all different shape and sizes, and different seats will fit each of us differently. I have a feeling that I'd have troubles getting my shoulders between a lot of the 'racing' seats out there. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Well first off hello! These questions are probably going to get better feedback on the forums on a site like zdriver.com, but I'll take a crack at the first one. If you take a look at Bryan Little's z garage - http://www.mindspring.com/~blittl/ZGarage.html you can read his section on the differences between the distributors by year. I would guess that the reason your distributor seems messed up once you put your triples on the engine, is due to lack of vacuum. (so you have almost no vacuum advance) I believe there are pretty simple solutions to this problem, but I can't say for sure what they are. I would try to find out more information about recurving a distributor for pure mechanical advance... Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but hopefully you can figure it out from here! ------------------ Richard Lewis

Great stuff Michael. You know, you've almost convinced me to do my 4th year mechanical engineering studies in aerodynamics/fluid mechanics. I love this stuff! ------------------ Richard Lewis

Sounds great! I laughed my ass off at your last comment... "time to get some more gas". ------------------ Richard Lewis

No Chrome-moly for me, I don't have access to a TIG anymore, and I'm trying to do this on a rather small budget! Glad that someone actually could tell me my answers. Pretty much what I expected. I was planning on getting the main hoop bent for me by a place locally here that can do it. (because I don't have the room to buy my own bender, nor the need for it really) I hope I can find a place in naniamo that carries thew ERW tubing. Else I'll have to make a trip over to vancouver... (the joys of living in a small town... nothing here!) Thanks guys. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I have a question about ERW tubing. Well I've found out that 1 1/4" schedule 40 steel pipe meets or exceeds all the requirements for the NHRA, (greater than 1 5/8" OD, and .140 wall thickness) except it may or may not be considered ERW. I'm not THAT worried about meeting the specifications, so much as it being a safe and functional cage. Can anyone shed some light on the differences between ERW tubing, and 1 1/4" pipe as far as strength once welded goes? The pipe has a .140 wall thickness, while the NHRA required .134. Like I said, first and foremost this is supposed to be functional (and safe), I'm not insanely worried about meeting NHRA/SCCA specs. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I've also heard Amsoil is great stuff. Apparently the guy that started Redline used to work for Amsoil, but couldn't duplicate things because Amsoil had the patents. Interesting. I plan on running Mobil1 10w-30 after breakin. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I've seen 2 different types of installs on the BRE spoilers. Not to worry, both are fairly easy! One has 2 mounting bolts at each side of the hatch, drilled through. Hard to explain, but think of it as 2 bolts per side through the hatch surface, as far away from the centerline of the hatch as possible. The other way isn't as nice! It depends on the spoiler, but mine had a fibreglass webbing with holes drilled in it, between the front and back of the spoiler. I used a magnet to get the bolts into place in the webbing, and then put them through holes drilled in the hatch surface. (about 1/2 way from the centerline to the edge of the hatch, 1 on each side) Then I removed the inside cover from the hatch (the leather covered interior panel) and put the nuts on there. Both methods are very solid, but the first one is definately more user friendly. I'm not sure which of the spoilers I've seen was from MSA and which weren't. Just remember if you get the one with the webbing, a magnet can save you HOURS and HOURS of frustration, trying to move a bolt into position from a very small place. ------------------ Richard Lewis

What I've been told by my engine builder is to run CHEAP oil during break in, and change it often. I plan on running some low grade 10w-30 and changing the oil and filter about every 1000miles. Once I know my engine is broken in, its fully synthetic all the way. (especially with a turbo engine!!!) Its probably a good idea to get a strong magnet and stick it to the outside of your oil filter for your break in period as well, just to make sure none of those shavings get through. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Just wondering if anyone out there has a rulebook for NHRA or SCCA regarding rollcage info. (I'm sure someone knows this stuff) What I am planning on doing is buying the material (not chro-moly) and getting the main hoop bent, then making the rest myself using my MIG. What I need to know is the required wall thickness, and diameters. As well as any stipulations regarding weld types. (MIG, TIG, gas, etc) Going to see if I can't make myself a nice 6 pointer. I could buy one, but shipping it to canada is major $$$. ------------------ Richard Lewis [This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited February 22, 2001).]

I was just about to ask if anyone had anything to say about the VDO gauges. I've been looking at them in the summit catalog for a couple reasons. A) their prices are good, comparable or better than the autometer stuff. and I simply like the look/layout of them more than the autometers. I still haven't decided whether I'd go with white or black face. Oh yeah, I seem to remember looking at a VDO website and seeing 5" speedos and tachs too. ------------------ Richard Lewis 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant ongoing! Drax's 72 240Z Turbo

If you have any doubt, I am sure a metals and materials engineer could verify how and when this fracture occured. Might be a worthwhile expert witness. PS: that is BS. The more I hear about things like this, the more I am happy that I will no longer pay anyone to do anything to any of my vehicles. ------------------ Richard Lewis 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant ongoing! Drax's 72 240Z Turbo

Sorry, I can't really help you with your inquiries much... I am just totally surprised about you breaking a crank. I had thought that this nissan cranks were darn near bulletproof. I mean, they are forged, and the VG30 doesn't exactly use a long crank. Have you seen with your own eyes that the crank is broken? I'd check yourself. Also, any idea what caused the break? ------------------ Richard Lewis 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant ongoing! Drax's 72 240Z Turbo