Drax240z

Yes, its called Calypso Red Metallic. Picked up a few more items from the BMW wrecker today, fixed the speaker grille, cigarette lighter, got the alarm system working... Also ordered some parts from Pelican Parts to fix the sunroof. Only a few more small things until the car is "perfect" again... Also tempted by the wreckers offer of $600 for a complete black interior in excellent shape, including sport seats. Either that or I am just going to fix up what I have, as time isn't exactly easy to come by these days, and as much as I'd prefer a black interior, a tan one isn't the end of the world.

I picked this up late last week after going through similar thoughts for my own daily driver. So far, so good! 1993 325iS, 5 speed, 189hp, RWD, comfortable, quiet, clean... Thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147547

Dyno power numbers should really only be used as a reference against themselves on the same dyno for that exact reason. It's a piece of cake to make the numbers say what you want it to say. A dyno operator with integrity will at least keep his numbers consistent for each run on his machine, allowing you to compare every pull on that machine with a reasonable degree of accuracy.

My point is I've seen such a huge range of dyno results between rwhp and the advertised hp of vehicles, that it's absolutely silly to try to make that statement. Somewhere between 8 and 40% difference, depending on the car, and the original hp claim. That's such a huge range that it makes any back conversion akin to a random guess...

You should claim 180rwhp and nothing else.

Johnc for the win...

2 x 100 watt bulbs will be near useless to you, make sure they wire in more than that. For reference, I have a 20'x14' "shed", with 7 x 100 watt bulbs in it, and it's too few even with bright white walls. If I were to do it again I'd have 10. I went with regular bulbs as opposed to fluorescent due to the start up time in the cold, and cost... I don't have any insulation, and given that this workspace is temporary for me, I wasn't going to pony up for digital ballasts and T8 bulbs. R22 sounds just fine in the walls to me. For reference, My 60's house has R8 in the walls, and had R20 in the attic until I upgraded the attic to R50... I would expect with R22 in the walls and R40+ in the attic it won't take much energy to keep the garage warm. Your 2 x 100w bulbs might do it.

Well, not as much done Saturday as I would have hoped. Had some out of town guests, and that took me off the Z for most of the day. Did manage to do some port matching between the turbo, spacer and manifold though. Had to take out as much as 1/8" of the manifold to open it up the same as the turbo and spacer!!! Talk about potential flow restrictions... its the little things like that which end up giving you more power then the same setup next to you... New studs, spacer and turbo in place. Just checking clearances here. Time to reclock it, and do some wastegate mockup/fabrication!

Well, bit the bullet and picked this one up today... already recharged the A/C, fixed the windshield wipers, cleaned the interior, put in a few new light bulbs... lots more to do, but it's an easy project at this point, doesn't NEED anything, just as I have time...

This path worked for me as well, and I fully intend for my children to have some track time when they turn 16, just so they can get some perspective and a place to get out those aggressive tenancies.

A quick update. It's been a very busy week or two with not much done on the car itself, but at least I've been sorting out a few things I'll need later. Spent last night removing the studs from the exhaust manifold, only to break the last one. Drilled it and leaving it soaking in penetrating oil overnight, will have to pick up some EZ outs on the way home and see if I can get it. Managed to mount a few things, starter, alternator, did a bit of wiring, working on a new rad mount, sourced a whole bunch of SS bolts, new studs for exhaust manifold and turbo mounting... Hopefully this weekend will see some progress. Also managed to buy 2 "new" cars in the last 2 weeks, (though I sold 3 in the same period!) it's amazing how time consuming it cam be to buy and sell cars. The first a 2000 BMW 528i touring model, 5 speed wagon. Immaculate car, well cared for and should be excellent with the new addition on its way. The second car I picked up today, a 1993 BMW 325is, 5 speed. Not quite as cherry as the wagon, but with a bit of TLC it will be an awesome daily driver for me. As it stands now it will do that task admirably, and it just needs a few interior bits and bobs in order to be a 9/10. Z stuff planned for the weekend though!

Any idea how seamless the typical install is Paul? ie: retaining interior electronics function, A/C, power steering, etc. I wouldn't want to go down that road for a daily without retaining 100% of the stock features.... including trip computer, etc.

Haha, now that is interesting... just what I need, another project! I'm at about the 95% convinced mark after a bunch of reading tonight. I'll sleep on it and see how it goes tomorrow, but all signs are positive. It's been a big month for me, getting rid of a couple of FWD volkswagon diesels, and an old Miata, and picking up a cherry 528iT and likely a 325iS in their place. I'm done with driving cars that don't inspire me! You know it's been too long driving slow cars when a 196hp NA inline 6 in a 3700lbs BMW feels fast...

Two seats shouldn't be a problem.

Looking for any of your guys advice or experience on this one. I've played with BMW's for years, mostly E30's but I have a 528iT (E39) and have had an 535i (E28) in the past as well. I am looking at an E36 for a daily driver, specifically a 1993 325is. My requirements aren't a race car, I can drive the Z daily if that's what I'm after. I'm looking for something comfortable yet fun, sporty, and a bit refined. Again, the Z is parked next to it if I want to go for a 10/10 drive and throw comfort, fuel economy and being subtle to the wind. Any feedback on E36's, specifically a 325is? Anyone have any other options for a daily driver in that price range that meets my goals? (say, $3500-$5000) Not looking for a huge project car, but I don't mind wrenching here and there as needed... For the unfamiliar, here is a similar car:

Car is looking great Gabe!

So what do you consider fast?

Not familiar with the shaft differences, though iI am using an 81 shaft without issues. Can you elaborate on the differences?

I haven't read this entire thread (but most of it), but one thing is crystal clear to me. STOP COMPARING DYNO NUMBERS ON DIFFERENT MACHINES Any percieved performance gain of one setup over another based on dyno numbers, not only different dynos, but different brands of dynos are flawed. It's so pathetically easy to influence dyno hp numbers, and many shops inflate their numbers to keep their customers happy. As a customer you have no way of telling other than asking, and even then, every dyno manufacturer has a "different" horsepower. The only proper way to use a dyno is to use the same one over and over again and compare with itself. Back to the origional thread. I think this is simply the best sounding L-series I have ever heard, and I applaud your build. It's enough to make me want to drop my turbo and build a 2.4L screamer.

Wow, those are some nice results! Never mind the 11hp peak, but look at the area under the curve, especially at high RPM. Near redline, you've gained around 25rwhp, with around 20rwhp gained from 5750rpm up to 6500rpm. Huge. The 20+ft-lbs of torque at the low end is impressive as well. This sure drives the dagger into the heart of the log manifold/60mm TB setup in my opinion. I'll bet it feels like a different car.

I've been asked for a component list needed to do a basic turbo swap in a 240z, so I am going to add it to this thread as well. If I am missing something, PM me and I'll add it to this post. 1981-1983 280zx turbo engine - complete including: AFM ECU Wiring Harness Downpipe Turbo Fuel rail, injectors, pressure regulator Intake/Exhaust Manifolds Stock J-pipe Oil cooler (or method to block off existing oil cooler adapter) 240mm flywheel/pressure plate recommended [*]A high pressure, high volume fuel pump. (Stock, Walbro, etc) [*]280z baffled fuel tank, or another method of baffling tank for EFI [*]Intercooler & piping (optional) [*]Piping & air filter will need to be customized

Well I refinanced, and have spent almost a year at <3% now, after getting out of a 5.8% mortgage. I had to pay a penalty up front, but I've made that back about 2X over at this point. It's not always bad, but timing is everything.

I got in at the perfect time, bank prime - .75%, and rode the interest rates down over 3% in the past year. Even if I went with a new mortgage up here right now it would be at 3.75-4.15% fixed, or variable at 3.3%...

FWIW, I've put 282ft-lbs of torque through my stock 77 5-speed for 30,000miles or so, and probably 50+ autocross events with no issues. Not saying it's the best solution, but it's stronger than most people give credit for.

I am hoping to update that thread soon, since I've got about 8 more years experience with turbos since I wrote it.