Drax240z

Check out the thread "Post your wheels" on this site, lots of idea of what fits and how they fit and pictures of such. I wouldn't chose the staggered wheels you list for a Z with flares. For street use, either are fine. I have illumina's and run them in the middle setting on the street, which is about the same setting as the HP's. I do like to turn them up a bit on the track however.

Never have got a good lightning shot myself (though there isn't a lot of lightning around where I live). I did try in Bryce Canyon for about an hour and a half one morning, and couldn't get anything good, despite having a good setup for it. It's harder than you think!

Lookin' good Mike!

You could try reading my previous posts in this thread as a starting point.

After seeing the video of MonZter's 240z, I know exactly why people like the L24!

My 528i wagon won't win any races, but at the same time it's not completely gutless. If you're really looking for performance from the wagon the 540i would be a better choice for sure. Certainly they shouldn't be compared in the same vain as an M3 or G35.

You'd pay that for decent HID's.

They are 24V and for a trial I am performing at my place of employment... Not really Z suitable I'm afraid!

Got my hands on these today: 7" round, very nicely made, DOT/SAE approved/rated, robust heat sink, all metal construction on the backside. Wiring is heavy duty, connectors are good quality. Light output seems very good. Current draw should 2.5amp lowbeam, and 4.5amp highbeam for the 12V version. Paid $311.14 each, 10000 hour life. IMHO these have the potential to make HID's obsolete.

Got my hands on these today: 7" round, very nicely made, DOT/SAE approved/rated, robust heat sink, all metal construction on the backside. Wiring is heavy duty, connectors are good quality. Light output seems very good. Current draw should 2.5amp lowbeam, and 4.5amp highbeam for the 12V version. Paid $311.14 each, 10000 hour life. IMHO these have the potential to cause HID's to go extinct... I'll update more after installation and testing. No, they are not for the Z.

I need something that is easily adaptable to a 3" round intake pipe, I'd prefer a paper cone filter but can't seem to find any disposible ones...

Likely your research for those upgrades won't be best done on hybridz, I would poke around some of the 300zx specific forums listed above for answers to those questions. We don't have a lot of 300zx people here, and even fewer that have held onto the VG30 in some form or another. That is not to say you aren't welcome here, you'll just find the 300zx knowledge is pretty small here in comparison to other cars, engines, etc. With that said, I'd be looking for a junkyard motor, or a wrecked 300zxtt to take the motor out of, and there are a number of turbo upgrade kits out there for that motor from Stillen, HKS, etc.

MIG welding aluminum is perfectly fine, the issues that are usually raised are whether a 110v machine can put enough heat into the aluminum to make it a worthwhile endeavour...

I'm getting the feeling Ron doesn't approve... maybe I'm off base. BRAAP?

With that budget I think you're pretty much "stuck" with going the stock twin turbo motor with a few bolt on upgrades... you should be able approach your power goals though.

I dunno, we should hit him just to be sure.

All this time BRAAP and I have assumed the other one is nailing us with it, maybe it's been to everyone all along...?

I've used a K&N for quite a while and I've never been really sold on them as far as performance gains go, nor filtration efficiency. I need a new filter for my new engine, and am wondering what guys have used out there. Looking for a 3" inlet cone/cylindrical filter, that can support up to 400hp or so. I would like a non-oiled, paper filtration product if possible, but as a last resort I might consider a K&N again. Maybe. To me, protecting my $$$$ engine is more important than the marginal HP gains I'll see with a K&N filter. What's out there? What are you using?

Paint those inner surfaces BLACK and I think you've got something there...

Sounds pretty legit to me, not many front engined cars that can do wheelies without some serious power. Puerto Rico is kindof known for low buck fast cars too, which would explain your modified hood and intake... not that either of those have any impact on how fast this car can be...

OMFG john, that is too funny! Mine isn't much better though. At the track, got a good knock going after an autocross run. A quick listen and it wasn't good, everyone who offered an opinion said "wow, that's some serious rod knock". Limped the car home with the bad noises. Got all the parts together to do a rebuild. A few weeks after the incident get to tear it down, (it's my daily driver as well at the time) end up with the entire engine apart on the floor and everything inside looks PERFECT. No spun bearings, no bearing wear, no nothing. Scratch my head for a bit, and then go look at the engine head. One of my valves is at 0.080" clearance, the lock nut had come loose! Expensive lesson, could have just pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves before I left the track that day...

I posted about them here too: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148926

This is what works for me everytime...

Everyone has to do it once at least. There was 1 erroneous moment in there where the whole user base was forced to accept it a second time. Someone was sleeping at the wheel a bit at 4am as he was trying to do admin work. Could be worse, you could be on your 12th time due to another admin playing games with you. Ask me how I know!

I wasn't going to push the point because my memory was a bit fuzzy on the subject, but I seem to remember sticking a 2.5" piece of tube in there and having it fit like a glove. Thanks for the update Yasin!