Drax240z

If you ship to any US address you will probably save 50% or more over getting it here. Not only are the border charges high, shipping from US to US addresses is really cheap in comparison. However if you bring them across the border you technically (well, legally) have to pay duty and taxes. We very well may have parts that you are looking for as well. Feel free to come by anytime.

I have a roll bar in the rear of my Z that is made from 1-5/8" mild steel, with a rear strut tower bar in a straight line between the towers. If I drive over very uneven surfaces (gas station curb for example) with my right hand backwards on the bar, I can feel it move with the chassis flex. I have NO doubt whatsoever that the forces the rear experiences when I am on the autocross track with stick rubber at 60mph is much greater. You might be thinking that this is sortof irrelevant info because I am not feeling the bar flexing, but I am feeling what it is attached to flexing. This is very true, but what it is attached to is also 1-5/8" steel tubing, 0.120" wall. This is like saying that unless you prove it with numbers, steel is lighter than air. It shouldn't have to be proven because it's essentially common knowledge. Anyway, not trying to stir the pot really but I think the arguement is a bit silly.

Try any L-series crank. They are all forged!

I think you'll be dissapointed with the 512's low level of grip, but to each their own I suppose!

I had an invitation mailed to me today, they actually have a website put together for the event this year. http://www.dnbc.ca/

If this was an all out race car, I'd add another diagonal door bar from the node just below the windshield (dash bar) to the mainhoop/lower door bar node. Egress becomes a total beeeeach, but stiffness would improve dramatically. All things considered however, this cage is better than a lot of the ones out there!

I disagree, razorblade is about the fastest thing around for this job. Go to anyplace that sells paint supplies and pick up a razor blade in a handle. Simple windex and a razorblade will do any panel of glass on the Z in about 5 minutes.

The cam I spec'd above we've used on the following engines with EXCELLENT results: - Dished piston L28/E31, SU's. (8.56:1 CR) - Dished piston L28/E31, triple 40mm w/ 32mm chokes (8.56:1 CR) - Flattop piston L28/E31, triple 40mm w/ 34mm chokes (10.2:1 CR) - Flattop piston L31/N42, triple 40mm w 36mm chokes (9.8:1 CR) It works out as a great slalom grind. Very streetable. A bit lopey at idle but not bad. Idle ~800rpm. And as I said great results from 3000-6500rpm. (however still with some kind of power below 3000rpm, you can drive daily)

Looks good for the most part, I am just not sure about those doorbars being so close to parallel... I suspect this is supposed to be for a street car and to be easy to get in and out of...? If so, it's a pretty crazy street car.

Cool man! The all Datsun/Nissan event is a great one, one of the gem's of the northwest! Last year we have about 80-100 cars, for the autocross on Saturday, and the show on Sunday. Many of these cars won awards on both days! (a real accomplishment I think) I'll be there! The show is put on by the (mostly defunct) BC Z Registry, VIDE (http://www.vanisledatsun.com), Northwest Nissans, and the 510 club of BC. Ordering from MSA to BC will still KILL you in shipping, duty, taxes, etc.... I bet it'd be cheaper sending it to Sweden. (I payed $147 to my door for 6 flywheel bolts from MSA... a long story, but you get the idea) When you get closer to coming over shoot me an email and maybe we can get you to come by my shop and go for a ride in some Z's.

We have a lot of success with this cam: Cam lift: .338 Valve lift (1.5:1): .506 Intake opens 30* BTC, Closes 70* ABC Exhaust opens 70* BBC, Closes 30* ATC. Works out to ~280 duration. Good power from 3000-6500. Really works well with triple 40's in street/autocross trim. Slightly lopy idle. What size chokes are you running?

My money would be spent on the Falken Azenis rather than the 512's. Lots of grip, decent treadwear, cheap price!

Another lovely thing with brake hard lines, it seems all japanese cars use one style of metric fittings, while european cars use another different style of metric fittings. You guys really need to get with the times and adopt the metric system down there. LOL.

Granted the lack of datalogging can be a disadvantage, but you can still do more than guess. With a few hundred dollars for wideband, EGT, some dyno time, etc. you can really dial things in. Even with datalogging you aren't able to gather much in the way of useful info without one of these tuning aids. I guess what I am saying is that you can log until you are blue in the face, but if you aren't able to log the right things, it isn't going to help you much!

Cronic is using the SDS EIC which is only a controller for extra injectors. If he were using a full SDS system he would have the fine tuning ability that he desires. Big difference in systems, big difference in price, big difference in performance.

On the flip side, I just finished up a pretty hot engine yesterday in a customers car, and was concerned that the stock SU's wouldn't be enough carb for the car. (2.8L, E31, big valves, F54 block, 8.8:1CR, 2.5" exhaust, electronic ignition, .510lift/280cam) The car pulled HARD from 3800-6500 and had zero issues at that high rpm. After dealing with so many triple carbed cars, it blew me away how much power can be made on the top end with plain old SUs. (heh, ask norm about that one) JUst some more 'facts' for the discussion.

A stethoscope should narrow it down for you... It is pretty tough to isolate however.

Then if it is a lifter that is making noise it needs to be replaced.

Only the 83's had the P90A head with the non-adjustable hydraulic lifters, 81 & 82 turbos had a P90 head with lifters requiring mechanical adjustment.

Welcome to the club!

Have you adjusted your valves lately?

Stock 240z wheels are 5.5 inches wide. I can't offer much to answer the origional question, but the volume of incorrect 'facts' around here is growing far too rapidly for my tastes.

I'm assuming your pressure plate is ungodly stiff... how do the stock hydraulics hold up to those kind of loads? Have you had to upgrade clutch fork, slave cylinder, etc. in order to run this? I'm getting all paranoid about my CFDF now.

Mmmmmm.... griiiiiiippppp. Let us know how the first run on the Hoosiers goes for you and how they compare with your V700's.