Drax240z

No problem! I don't live in Italy.

Haha too funny. I get into a stock Z and my head touches the roof. I had to drop my drivers seat so I could wear a helmet in the car. I'm 6' tall! Sounds like your seats have severely sagged or something. Then again, I do have the torso of someone that should be 7 feet tall.

Yeah, but those are Canadian pounds Drax. It really works out to 4,550 pounds American.... Heh, or 6,000lbs in english units?

Hell even my car is in there. 72 chassis, turbo swap, R200, heavyish recaros, roll bar, big IC, associated piping, full interior, extra sound deadening, sub box, amp, etc. 2440lbs wet. I think 2350lbs should be a walk in the park for a street driven Z!

Yeah I can log intake air temp, might be worthwhile to add that channel as well. Plugs are gapped at .032". Haven't played with my LM-1 a ton, but it's got some really nice features. I'm slowly learning how to use them to my advantage.

Hrm, the areas you guys see that are lean are corresponding to the 1-2 shift, and 2-3 shift, ie: I am lifting off the throttle to shift. Under all loads the AFR is 12.5:1 or richer on this log. Clint you are suggesting that I am too rich, however, I started in the 12.5:1-13.0:1 range and richened it up from there to try to get rid of the pinging. Highway driving the car feels fine, it is ONLY under boost that I am having issues at all with tuning. I am not using a knock sensor, the ping is audible indeed. Plugs are not lean white, and are equal across all 6 cylinders. O2 sensor came out black as night after relatively little time running in the car, it's certainly rich... as the AFR's indicate. As I see it, the options are this at this point: A) My initial timing is somehow mucked up and am I running more timing than I think I am. I am hearing something rattle that sounds exactly like detonation, but only happens under boost. That's all I can come up with at this point... I think I'll verify my timing marks, maybe somehow they got messed up in the rebuild.

Ah yes... but how many motorcyclists are self taught? I'd say probably around 95%. 9 out of 10 people know you can make up a statistic to prove anything.

I'm getting close to pulling my hair out here! I can't seem to get my new engine to rev up without detonation... it's driving me batty. F54 block/turbo pistons N42 head Turbo Cam Big NPR intercooler Walbro pump 440cc/min injectors SDS EFI 8.3:1 CR I've swapped from my BPR6EY-11 plugs to BR8ES plugs, and that seems to have helped the ping slightly. Timing is currently 12* idle, all in to 36* by 3000rpm. Boost retard is significant at this point, 1.5* retard per PSI to a maxium of 16*. Using the wideband my air fuel ratios are 12:1 or richer across the board. Still I am getting ping on the top of 2nd gear. I've varified my timing with a timing light too. I seem to be fine until about 5psi boost where the pinging is audible. Can someone think of something I am overlooking? I am running 94octane gas... I think I might put some more in to dilute whatever was left in my tank 3 weeks ago when I parked the car to do the engine upgrades. Here is a log of my last run: Red is MAP, Green TPS, Pink AFR, Black RPM. This pull is from first gear at a dead stop.

20* helps counteract the low compression and give a decent amount of torque right from idle. If your engine is stock a stock turbo engine 20* works really well for initial.

Hrm, I am not sure I can agree with this. I agree that the fabrication are a bit sloppy, but not terribly so. This intake actually has a nice transition from the TB area into #1 & #2 cylinders, and the plemun tapers nicely down the length of the manifold. This is one of the rare plenums that actually addresses fully the transition to the early cylinders, not having a terribly steep angle for the air to turn. Also of note is the fact the intake runners taper to increase air velocity as it enters the intake ports. There are lots of little details like that on this particular manifold that indicate that the person designing this had a good idea of how air flows. It's also nice to see the the plenum volume isn't largely increased over stock, despite the modifications to the plenum. An in all I'd say that it's probably the best L6 intake design I've seen... it looks like it has been built with the "no expense spared" approach.

Tuning the stromberg (sp?) carb's... general tuneup stuff. The guy that owns it wants to sell it but it was running like a bag of crap when he brought it by. Now it's 98% good but still breaking up a little on the top end. Any car that has the distributor underneath an intake manifold deserves some harsh words I think.

My car is loud... straight 2.5" exhaust no muffler. It's still not hard to hear a ping if you know what you are listening for though.

I'm "only" running 9psi right now. Traction is such a huge issue as it is even with R-compound's on the track that I haven't felt the need to up it. I am getting some light pinging now with the new setup, so I am going to have to do a little more wideband work, maybe this weekend I'll find the time. I have a feeling that with the new setup traction might be LESS of an issue, because the power comes on more linearly and I think it will be more predictable and controllable with this setup. Either way I'm looking at the RX7 rims I have waiting for my 5 bolt conversion and thinking how nice some 245's would be under the car... (rather than the 205's I have now)

Man I must be missing something! I've had a 75 Jensen-Healey convertable in the shop for the past week or so, and I'm hating it more every day!

I finally drove the car with the new engine last night... and holy crap is it ever good! I cannot say enough good things about these mods over the stock turbo setup. Throttle response is very crisp now, and I believe will get a bit better yet with tuning. Off-boost power is surprising. (granted I am still running 20* initial timing) I actually rolled on the throttle in first leaving a light last night, and unintentionally spun the wheel(s) all the way through the intersection. It may not be making more ultimate power with these changes, but the car is CERTAINLY faster on the street, it just gets up and go's now. I'm not concerned with peak dyno numbers at all, but there is no doubt in my mind that this setup has WAY more area under the curve(s) than the P90/F54/7.38:1 setup did. BIG GRIN FACTOR!

`nuff said.

More piece of mind than anything Jon... I didn't go all crazy on it and it only took me about an hour to knock off the worst of it, the only areas I was really concerned about was where there was excess casting flash. Some people go to extremes and basically polish the inside of the block to aid in oil return. I just wanted to remove the (remote) chance that some of the casting flash would brake off and cause issues. Another case of "while I have it apart I might as well..."

Again man, search search search all your questions have been answered many times over.

The vented 4runner caliper setup is a nice upgrade over stock for street/autoX usage. Mike might have something to say about that setup too since he ran it for so long. The 4x4 caliper swap isn't much of an upgrade by itself though... unless your stock calipers are allready screwed. And drum brakes.... argh. They don't have any issues with stopping the car, but between needing adjustment and the constantly changing bias ratio as they wear, it's a bit of a pain.

What was your break-in procedure for the clutch? I've seen some pretty hot L-series engines that survived surprisingly well on a stock replacement clutch, even when abused at the track with a LSD and R-compound tires. Anyway, if you have a oil leak, that would certainly kill your clutch very quickly. If it is just slipping, there is a chance that it will start grabbing again after some normal driving, but you don't know when it will give out again.

Well 3 days ago I decided to yank my current motor (P90/Turbo pistons, stock internals) and get to work on my 'winter' upgrades. The engine is back in and running now so I use the term 'winter' lightly. Modifications performed in the last 2 days: - Deburr & Glyptol Block - Change from P90 to N42 Head. (7.38:1 -> 8.29:1CR) - Lighten flywheel (23lbs -> 17.75 lbs, most of the mass removed from the outside) - 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe replacing stock unit - Ported stock wastegate hole As you might be able to tell, these mods are almost entirely being done with 1 thing in mind, increased throttle response. No miles yet but I'll report in in the next 2-3 days with a full update. (after some wideband tuning too) I'm really expecting all this done together will make a MASSIVE improvement in throttle response, off-boost torque, spoolup speed, and likely fuel economy too.

Start with rack mounts and steering coupler in urethane and go from there... that is where the majority of the slop is in the Z front end on MOST cars.

Edited the above content in Scottie's post: GOOD CHOICES are: Isuzu NPR, Porsche 944, Toyota Supra (MKIV), SVO Mustang, Thunderbird SC BAD CHOICES are: Volvo, Starion, Mitsubishi, Supra (MKIII), some Audi's.

The sticky you refer to is a link to an external page, which we have no control over the content of... so we can't really change that.

One thing I've learned over and over in this business is that you cannot let the owner have too much control. It's nothing against the particular person, but they don't have the project management experience that someone that does this stuff every day does. When I let the owner of a said project act as the project manager, it always ends up being an issue for time/part compatability/etc. Like I said nothing against any of my customers, but that part of things should be left to the professionals in my opinion. (and really, it's something that the customer is paying for anyway, so why not take advantage of it?) My 2 cents.