Drax240z

Man do those CCW's ever make that car pop! What a great upgrade. Nice car too!

The nice thing about the PBR's in my eyes is that they are designed as a street performance caliper, whereas the wilwoods, etc. are made to be race only parts. The largest difference being that the PBR's have dust seals, which will extend the logevity of the calipers by a LOT. I can't think of any particular drawback with the PBR's when compared to wilwood/outlaw/etc.

Uh huh... no sarcasm at all in that post... And in the end you learned something anyway so it's all gravy!

Hey man, glad you finally got it out to the track! Those numbers aren't too bad at all for stock boost levels. My setup is very close, except I don't have a 3" exhaust, and I am running 9-10psi and an IC in a lighter 240z, best gtech time was 13.83@104mph. Obviously traction is an issue, but with an intercooler and a bit more boost you're gonna be into the 13's!

Yeah actually here are the coefficients of thermal expansion for some common automotive materials: 6061-T6 Aluminum 24.30µm/m*°C 304 Stainless Steel 17.82µm/m*°C Malleable Cast Iron 12.10µm/m*°C Mild Steel C1020 11.34µm/m*°C Ti Alloy (6%AL, 4%V) 9.50µm/m*°C As you can see from the units the amount of growth is directly proportional to the length of the piece. When you are considering a inline 6 engine, the amount of growth in a flange that long can be quite significant, enough that it will expand and shear off bolts/studs. Hrm, it just occured to me Doug that you might have been poking fun at me there. Ah well, a site build around technical information isn't complete without some technical information.

A physical impossibility. Actually... well, lets just say that someone mixes up the SS and Al filler rod, and you are welding aluminum... and for some reason you didn't realize it right away, and managed to get it to stick. Something like that anyway. Not that it would have any strength at all, but it will actually stick together if your contaminent ends up in such a way that there is still some sort of pool formed that will adhere the 2 pieces of metal. That's what I heard anyway.

Or get a spring to put inside the hose to keep it from collapsing so bad... that hose left like that will cause you problems down the road, even if it is fine right now. Otherwise, I can't wait to see more pics!

Umm, Jon I'll forgive you because you are new to this area, but in the pacific northwest that is a "rust free Z". Seriously. Don't panic about it. Sandblast it or chemically neutralize it, dry the heck out of it, reseal it and you should be fine for many years to come.

Ah, somehow I missed the fact we were comparing a flattop to a turbo piston, and not a dished piston to a turbo piston. The NA dished piston and turbo piston DO have different thicknessess in the upper ring land. Obviously the flattop NA and turbo don't differ so much.

Umm, last time I had both side to side like that there was a noticeable difference in the thickness of the piston below the first ring... the turbo one had an extra mm of depth there. I think either the picture isn't showing it right, or you have 2 NA dished pistons there. (or 2 turbo pistons)

Actually RacerX in my case it is a single stage paint where this is happening, not base/clear. I have had people tell me it's dust below the primer, but I can't figure why it would take time to come to the surface if it was dust. (ie: paint surface looks fine for a while, then in a month or so I get a bunch of these little bumps coming back) I know the solution to the problem is to take it right down and start over, and that is what will happen before I do it again.

I have had the same problem... even if you sand them away/repaint they keep returning. Little tiny bumps, not exactly bubbles in my case, but certainly under the primer layer. The bubbles are consitant throughout the whole paint too, not just one area.. I know it isn't rust in this case. In the areas that I stripped to bare metal however there doesn't seem to be this problem.

http://www.overseas-auto.com/ It's a bit hard to find so here is the website for these guys.

We use overseas distributing as well and they are really good in my experience.

Haha, you think? Hyabusa's are speed limited to 186mph IIRC. It's not a big deal to remove that limiter. Not sure about the speed limiters on the Honda, but I am pretty sure they have a similar system. I don't really have much trouble believing the guy hit 205mph on a 1000cc sportbike for some reason. Even if the guy with the stopwatch was off by .25 a second (which is really unlikely in practice, and if you can't get within .25seconds with a stopwatch, you shouldn't be flying a plane) its still 194mph...

Check for rust under the hood at the top of the front strut towers. (likely not a problem with those cars in Texas, but all of them up here are starting to go there) Even if you have to swap in a different engine it's still a deal I think. You can get used engines all day long for cheap from a wreckers. The KA24DE is fairly robust, but they do seem to have some issues with upper timing chains making noise/eating tensioners/etc. It's a noise that can be mistaken for a rod knock too.

Yeah I'd try gapping the plugs down a bit too... even as low as 0.030.

I'd certainly take the PBR calipers (modern motorsports) over the Wilwood setup. Ross's stuff is REALLY nice and complete. Either setup will give you great performance I am sure.

One of the best mods you can do to a Z... no drawbacks at all in my eyes!

It isn't really "more accurate" than a bench lathe etc. in the conventional way of thinking, what is nice about this method is that A) you don't have to take the car apart, and any problems with hubs, spindles, bearings, and knuckles can be trued up.

Nice to finally see someone who knows how to design an end tank building these! (unlike all the ones on ebay) Nice work James!

You can never have too much light in a shop... if I were you I'd add another 3 fixtures! (honestly)

Half an hour with a small screwdriver and some needle nose pliers will solve all your problems.

That's disco potato. I find the stock SR20 severely lacking on low end, and honeslty anything bigger than the stock turbo would worsen that situation... I think something like the disco potato would really be a good choice if you want a car that is bloody quick AND has power for more than 2000rpm.

So far everyone has kept this civil and even though opinions differ they have been differing in a professional and respectful manner... Let's not begin down the path of name calling guys.