Drax240z

So Jeff, in the end what did you find that would work for your setup without slipping? (and hopefully without breaking the bank) Sounding like the Clutch Specialties unit is the way to go...

So if the actual circumstances are completely different than what you first post, why falsefy your facts with lies? Hey man, I can't read your mind and reply to what you are thinking, I can just make my reply to what is actually posted here on this board, for all to read... and I did so accordingly! Not sure what is up with your clutch hitting the bolts. All I can go on is the 3 CFDF's I've installed have all fit fine with stock nissan bolts, 240mm nissan flywheels. Sorry to hear you got shafted by CF for shipping, but that in itself doesn't have much to do with the performance of the clutch, but I can understand your frustration with the company because of that ordeal. I'd be pissed too. Rather than revert to namecalling, state your opinions and back them up with facts. If you had stated up front that you had properly broken in the clutch, and you had more than the 700 total miles (600 being on the highway) that you indicated in your first post, then I don't think my post would have ever been written. Anyway, can the smartass attitude and post the facts. If you don't, then don't get all bent out of shape when someone calls you on it!

Anywhere that will get a stream of cool air will work nicely. I've seen it installed in the fender on a 280z before however without clearance issues. I made longer lines for mine and put it between my IC and my rad.

First off the CFDF units require 500 miles of city driving without full power applied for break in. Break in is very important for any friction surface. 600 highway miles do almost NOTHING to break in a clutch. Second, the CFDF is rated for up to a 90% increase over stock power once properly broken in. If you expect more than that from it, then it won't last. If you are making more than 90% over stock power levels, buy a clutch rated accordingly. I love it when people buy the wrong product for the applicaiton/abuse it/install incorrectly/etc and then blame the product for failing.

Go for it!!!!!!!!! The reasoning is sound enough, with the destroker you end up with slightly less displacement (2550cc's or so) but you get a really nice rod/stroke ratio, that should increase your detonation resistance a great deal. Someone in the last thread mentioned that this was the same bore & stroke that the RB26DETT used. I'd love to see someone else try this. I was thinking about it on a whim and am not sure when (or frankly if) I'll ever get around to building one. I am certain that the slight decrease in displacement when compared with a stock turbo motor can be offset with a greater CR, and more boost at higher RPM's. As for revving the piss out of it, I didn't necessarily have that in mind at all... Like these guys say, it's of minimal advantage with a properly sized turbo.

Ah yes, not "shrunk" per se, but "re-formed".

As far as airflow is concerned I can see where the gains have been made. 1) Intake runners - not just the length difference, but the constant diameter and straight path would give big benefits to ultimate flow. 2) TB mouting - mounting on an angle certainly helps with the airflow distribution. Cylinder 1 on a stock manifold doesn't get as much air as cylinder 3, etc. 3) Plenum construction - Smooth flat walls inside as opposed to a rough, and very uneven surface with stock. (consider all the extra casting protruding into the plenum on a stock job... 1 large bump for every threaded recess) Big gains here. 4) Plenum Volume - While I don't know the actual plenum volume of James manifold in particular, I would expect the volume to be larger than stock, which will generally correspond with a higher resonance frequency and therefore the potential for a higher VE in the upper RPMs. 40hp is still quite impressive in my opinion! I'd not have guessed it to have that serious an improvement over stock.

Hmm, I love the line in their "how it works section" So if it shrinks and it weighs the same, how they hell does the density stay the same? If that isn't a violation of physics I am not sure what is.

Yes it is quite obvious actually... which is probably a good indication that you don't have much to add to this thread. Unless you have a question, some statement of fact, or something remotely technical to add to the thread then 'pipe down'.

All you questions have been answered dozens of times, do a search and do some reading.

A little bit of comparison: L28/E31 setup, flattop pistons, .460/270cam, triple 40's with 34mm chokes, 5 speed + 3.70 gears... 0-60: 5.97sec 1/4: 14.5@94.8mph G-tech info This was not the best times this car was capable of. (the owner only tried 3 times) I feel that with a bit more finesse this car could be ~5.5 0-60 and in the low 14's.

Another suggestion, I've heard great things about the ztherapy SU tuning video. For $20 you can't lose!

Now that clifton mentions it... the 370cc and eclipse are both o-ring style, and the minor mods needed to fit the 370cc should work on the eclipse, or most other injectors of the same style as well. Search and ye shall find.

The 240z can be made stiffer than the 280z for the same weight. However, the 280z is stiffer to begin with. Looking in the areas of 200lb/in to 250lb/in is good for a dual duty street/autocross setup. It's pretty stiff on the street in the Z, but works well. Search this site and you'll come up with lots of discussion on coilover springs, rates, lengths, etc.

Welcome to Hybridz. First off, the SU's are likely the simplest carb ever made. Not trying to put down your skills, but what is needed to set them up are well within the skill set of your average backwayd mechanic. Searching here, and places like zcar.com will help you there. All that is really necessary is a $25 tool called a uni-syn. The reason I am not specifically answering your question, is that I am going to make a couple of recommendations. A Z with a moderate V8 swap has a similar power to weight ratio to that of a Viper. What it won't have is brakes, suspension, chassis and grip even close to that of a Viper. So in order to really effectively (and safely) do a V8 swap, I can't stress enough the importance of budgeting for upgrades to these key components. With that in mind, most people realize that it isn't an inexpensive upgrade, as your cheap engine swap probably just tripled in costs when considering these other necessary upgrades. What I recommend, is learning the SU's, and tune the car. Buy a couple books, and wrench on the Z yourself. The Z platform quite possibly is the easiest car ever built to work on! (well, it is very simple) Hone some of your skills and drive the car. Take this time to upgrade brakes, chassis, suspension, wheels & tires in preparation for a V8 swap down the road. I would personally budget at a minimum $8000 for the swap, including suspension, chassis and brake upgrades.

It is amazing the difference in Z cars with the same suspenion, and a stiff chassis and a non-stiffened chassis. As with any car, the stiffer the chassis, the more predictable the handling. WIth the stiff chassis you also go from dealing with a 3 degree of freedom system (think of the actual suspension consisting of 3 springs, the tire, the spring, and the chassis) to a 2 degree of freedom system. (this time tire + spring) I honestly have no hard data on what the torsional rigidity of the Z chassis is, I haven't measured it. (I should sometime!) I would expect it would be much less than 1500ft/lbs per deg though in stock form. (A well sorted chassis should be pushing 3000ft/lbs per degree or more) Has anyone actually measured this on the Z? As far as spring rates go, you should be able to drop the Z 2" with minor ill effects, and less ill effects if you section the struts. I am running moderate spring rates (still streetable) and have a minimal amount of body roll.

I think 240z's came with a white interior too. Again, with black carpet.

In my mind, what sets us apart are the general users. The only way this site will stay technical and informative is if the general hybridz public keeps it so. We can moderate until we are blue in the face, but that isn't really going to catch everything. Everyone that cares about this board needs to moderate, that is the only way it will work. - If you see a post that has incorrect tech info, point it out. - If you are going to post, make sure it contributes to the topic. - If you have a question, do a search first. If everyone followed these simple guidelines we wouldn't be having this discussion. Self moderation for everyone!!

Er, have you guys actually physically tried to stretch a silicone reducer/coupler? It's much easier said than done!

Edelbrock sells a unisyn too... at least my local parts store has one on the wall in an Edelbrock package. We've taken to using a manometer and putting plugs into the intake runners... it works REALLY well, but is more fussy than a unisyn. Reserved only for higher end customers cars/expectations/bills. The manometer we use is from a motorbike shop, and has 4 individual tubes.

Eclipse are an 0-ring style and need a custom rail. The merkur injectors will drop right in with minor mods, and are 370cc/min.

Quality fluid. Quality friction material. 'nuff said.

If those wheels are the same as mine, they are 15"x6" made by Enkei. Riken makes a lighter 2 piece version with a VERY similar look.

I'd suggest a 510 for sure, the Z 2+2's don't have much room and don't look so good. Lots of engines available for a 510, and custom made bolt in engines up to 2.3L. The 2 2.3L 510's I've driven were very quick, and it is a really nice setup. Even the 2.0L (L20B) cars I've driven have been good. If you want more power there are kits available to swap in a VG30 NA engine (3.0L V6) that is a very nice mod. Expect to spend upwards of $2000 for the kit to do the conversion, but in the end you can bolt in a VG30. (carb'd or EFI) With the VG installed you are looking at 3X the HP and torque than the stock 1600cc engine would give you. Seriously fast at that point.

Man those are ugly wheels.