Drax240z

So what do you guys run for alternator pressure anyway? I try to keep mine right around 14.7psi most times.

Most companies sell brake clean and electrical contact cleaner that are exactly the same chemical, perchloroethylene. (PCE) Some other types of electrical connection cleaners are made from other chemicals however, and if you buy non-chlorinated brake clean it will be a different chemical than PCE. PCE works just fine to clean electical connectors though, and anything with grease on it as well. (and suits too, since it was designed origionally for drycleaning)

Well I can varify for sure that the turbo runners are not any larger than the NA runners, a myth that I have heard quite a few times. I measured them both and they are the same. As for what is the best of them, I like the 75-76 non-EGR manifolds since they start out cleaner than the others. As far as flow goes, I suspect you'll find very little difference between stock manifolds.

I dunno, the 3.1L we just did with these seals has 7.1 miles on it so far and doesn't seem to be smoking at all... Stay tuned. On a side note, my own rebuild with ~7000miles on it started with some top end smoking symptoms corresponding with what you would expect for poor valve seals... though this is with nissan valve seals.

Well we've got a 3.1L now with these valve seals as well... that makes 2 here that we can moniter. The 3.1L should be able to sway the balance yay or nay.

I think we're a bit off topic here... the origional post and question was: "what to do to kill a Z06" - implying at least, how to make a Z faster than a Z06 in a straight line or around corners, we aren't sure yet not "what to do to make a Z a more comfortable daily driver with more resale value than a Z06" Hehe. I agree that the Z06 is a great package at an awesome price though.

You could always get a set of CNC'd solid control arms made, though I don't believe the cost would outweight the benefit, especially compared with what is out there allready. However, since you have a ZX, maybe it is worth pursuing because there isn't anything out there for replacements. A stock T3 is small... Tell that to anyone running slower than 12.47 in the quarter mile against Jersey and see how small they think it is! (Jersey just ran a 12.47 1/4 with the stock turbo) Twin hybrid T3/T4's are getting closer to the realm of possibility, though I still think even a pair T3/T04B with .48AR housings is going to be too much turbo. There are lots of calculators on the web that will help you figure out proper turbo sizing, even for twins. The sequential turbo idea is an interesting one... no one has done that yet on an Lseries as far as I know! Back to your engine. You are considering paying the (huge) money it takes to build an aluminum block L28, yet consider keeping the P90 head? You will find more power gains with a more radical head design, if you are going really custom I'd put some effort in making a cross-flow head, or looking for an block/head combo that allready has one. You are a long way from this yet, but in my experience performance spark plugs are garbage in an L-series. Stick with regular NGK's! Last comment: search, search, search this site. Many topics on your list (and many of your questions so far) will be on this site allready. The first step to any large project is research in one form or another.

Burnin8 the countryside... Our 510 VG30DET swap here is "The Burninator"... Burnin8 will be a good vanity plate for it.

I strongly suspect you'll have difficulty finding any configuration with twin T4's that you'll be happy with due to the size of those turbo's. 1 full T4 on a 3.1L is a LOT of turbo for that displacement, and would be capable of some big HP numbers, and be peaky to drive. 2 together, well... double what I just said. There are plenty of other turbos that will work well in a twin system, give good overall drivability and gobs of power. Search around a bit, there are a couple around here. I wouldn't even consider direct injection for gas milage purposes. With the setup you are talking about you can basically throw milage out the window anyway.

The systems I did had a 80ms delay, and that was just to give the air enough time to fill the cylinder.

Come on guys, it's been shown over and over here that getting a turbo Z to run faster than 12.4 doesn't require breaking the bank, and certainly don't require $30000 worth of car. (not to say John's car won't do it, and in impressive style at that!) To use my car as an example, even though I am not running anywhere near low 12's in it. My conversion has a 660lbs weight advantage over the Z06. This is 21%, meaning that to achieve the same power to weight ratio I'd need 21% less power than the 405?hp Z06. 319hp. Hell we've got guys doing that on JY blocks and stock electronics around here. Now the bigger issue that power to weight in this case is going to be traction. An LSD will be mandatory, as will some pretty sticky tires. 320HP is achievable from a 280zxt engine (with 420ft/lbs of torque to boot) at a mile over sea level, with a T04B/T3 turbo, decent exhaust, some tuning, a quality intercooler, and a few other tweaks... just look at our friend sleeperZ here. That is a LOT of torque. Throw in a LSD and some drag radials and you're most of the way there... and not at 3/4 the cost of a Z06 either.

Been there, done that... On both systems I've done, the biggest problem wasn't the pneumatic circuit at all, it was the damn shifter buttons and/or paddles. It is actually much more difficult to get these working well and get a good feel with them than it is to design the rest of the system. As far as the pneumatics go, the solonoids and cylinders needed are easy to find in a variety of sizes, but are industrial items and usually fairly expensive. The other problem is writing a program for a microcontroller that is GOOD and works well with the system. This is probably where most of the time will be spent in the end, is tweaking the control system and program to a point that it works smoothly with the pneumatic system. In both cases my systems have been on a sequential tranny making them quite a lot simpler, but the adaptation to a non-sequantial system isn't terribly more complicated.

All I can suggest is before paying big $$$ on parts, do some research. Many things you've listed aren't going to work well at all, and other things are a lot of money for little to no gain. I'm all for having a dream and building a radical car, so I wish you luck. I just don't want to see a twin T4 turbo'd 3.1L. Also a lot of what has been listed is not optimal, and there are better choices out there for your setup. (CV joints instead of U-joints, for instance) Keep reading and planning accordingly.

Meh, why not.

Not so much muffle as change the frequency to a range that is much more pleasing on the ears and lower in the audible range. Most turbo cars sound pretty darn good with only a straight through magnaflow in my experience. Not too loud at all. I can't imagine why this would be any different on a rotary. (except it might sound like a 2 stroke!)

M6x something or other... probably M6x1.00 if I had to guess. Best I can do off the top of my head.

LOL, Garage-mahal.. I love it.

Take a look at magnaflow PN 14619. Not sure you saw it, but the aluminized magnaflows have a lifetime guarentee as well and use all SS on the internals. The only difference is about $40 and the polished SS casing.

Wow, that's nuts!

Hi Nigel. I am running a EM-3E and have put my air temp sensor right at the back of the intake manifold, next to the brake booster vacuum line. I don't notice any lean conditions as a result of this, except in closed loop mode. (I assume yours is off?) To thermally isolate the sensor from the manifold, just use 3-5 wraps of teflon tape as you would on any other pipe thread. Teflon doesn't conduct well at all. Are you using any sort of heat shielding under your intake manifold? That would be what I suspect is the problem. You need one... especially with the sensor in that position. My intake temps at idle don't seen to get over about 40-50C if my memory serves me. Cruising temps will always be higher than ambient, 20C higher doesn't strike me as alarming.

Hmm, I wonder if he's looking to buy John's car now?

I thought it was Misred... Scottie does engine swaps as fast as he does quarter miles! Lookin great as always Scottie.

Huh, is that ever cool! Nice job Owen!

Absolutely you need to replace your booster.

Maybe I should be more specific. All the magnaflows I've used have been straight through. I typically stick to the round bodied ones in 14" length or so and they are straight through. Then again none of these have a polished tip or have much bling at all... they just plain work!