Drax240z

Last back to back dyno comparison I saw before and after intercooler addition, same boost level: 1ft-lbs and 1hp gain maximum. (I believe on a 1.8L honda engine) regardless, the beauty is you can safely turn up the boost. Don't expect much just from the IC alone.

The title pretty much sums it up. I'm converting to larger injectors on my sds, and I'm curious how to reporgram using my current map, rather than starting from scratch. I would suspect that if I am converting from 260cc to 440cc injectors, then I can basically divide current values by 1.7 for a few things. The question is, do I divide everything by that change? RPM fuel, start, map fuel, etc? Or is there a better technique?

Usually you start by turning them all the way in, then 2.5 turns out. There is lots of good info on the net about tuning SU carbs, and they are pretty basic really. Do some searches on the subject here and on zcar.com, look for "norm" and see what he wrote. To do it right though, you really need a uni-syn to balance the airflow. They are about $30 and are a worthwhile investment if you plan on keeping the carbs for a while.

I'd prefer the viscous given the choice... It comes on more gradually and is more predictable in my experience. Granted, the clutch type would probably be more efficient overall. (by a small margin)

I swapped to the 3.54 from 3.36 yesterday, and I am pleased with the results. I think a 3.70 would be just fine too.

Off the top of my head, 20* at idle, ramping to 38*. At boost, its retarded to ~15* total timing at 15psi.

Green all the way. Be unique!

3.36 I have is an R180... but you're welcome to it if you want it!

Looking good! Damn a carb'd NA engine has a whole lot less wiring and tubes and stuff. I'd kill to have an engine bay that sleek!

All indications from 3 years of posts here lead me to say the 3.54:1 is the way to go... I'm running a 3.36:1 right now and would like a bit more 1st gear/off boost torque, so I am swapping to a 3.54:1.

Those flat top SU's are referred to as "boat anchors" usually... and not without reason! They are a crazy beast with all the emission modifications. Building a ~180rwhp L28 isn't tough or expensive in the grand scheme of things, and its certainly a quick engine in a 240z.

Geeze, I'm not sure I like that tradeoff at all. You think the 300zx MAF will be more responsive than the SDS? I'd thought about the .48AR exhaust housing... strikes me as being too small. I think I want to stay at the .63AR area. Lockjaw, you think I'll see a significant difference with a dual port WG actuator? Right now I am running the granger style boost controller, which helped with spool up quite a bit. I'd not expect the dual port to be better than the granger check valve/stock WG actuator setup...? Thanks for clarifying the trims sleeper, something I've been wondering for a while. For T04E compressors, 50, 57, 60 numerically larger flows more... For the T04B can I assume from smallest to largest its H, S, V? (alphabetical order) I'm sure I'm not the only one benefitting form this info, so keep it coming guys!

Go with the hot L6 naturally aspirated, you won't be dissapointed with the power. And you will have the chance to learn a lot about engines on the way. Save the turbo swap for a few years down the road when you have more money and experience. Free flowing exhaust, cam, a quality ignition, triple webers, bump up the compression ratio... Makes a very quick street car, and one that sounds Suhweeeet!!!!

Hey Brad, your setup sounds similar to what I want to go with. I'm a little confused witht he S-3 term.. I suspect that is your compressor wheel trim... Is this a term that is specific to one turbo company? I've always heard 50 trim, 57 trim, 60 trim, etc used... Turbine blade clipping is interesting... One one hand you'd lower the efficiency of the turbine, but at the same time you lower the mass and the inertia of the turbine... The question is, how do you know how much to clip without getting into some indepth analysis? (I realize that you get an expert to do this for you, but how do they know?) Anyone else with experience in clipping the turbine?

Great discussion guys, thanks for all the ideas. I'm staying away from water injection and the like, not because I don't think it works. However, I want a system with zero refills, etc. (well, except for fuel) I don't want to have to worry about NOS bottles, or water bottles to keep topping up. Personally I'd rather go with an efficient intercooler rather than water injection anyway. Seems like less of a potential problem. I've got a large NPR on the way from costa rica, which I may or may not replace my small NPR with. I'm a little concerned that the extra volume will detract from the throttle response, however... I suspect with some changes to my intercooler piping and a few other tricks I can get that response back. I am under the (false?) impression that a new T3 stage 3 turbine is more efficient than the old nissan stock turbine... Am I misinformed?

Thats the one, thanks!

My fairly limited experience with the A032's are all positive ones. I'd be tempted to give the Kumho's a try too though.

Anyone out there have pics/links to the 2 tone brown/gold JDM Z with Gnose, bolt on flares, watabes, etc? I believe it had ABS, and a super clean engine bay... post if you've got them please!

I6 with triple weber's is hard to beat V12 with 6 webers might do it though. How about the H16 they used in the 60's in formula 1? Very cool exhaust note.

I figured I'd run this by you guys before I dive right in. I've decided on the direction I want to go with my build, and while most people on this forum seem to go with a big hybrid turbo for results at the drag strip, I am looking to compete on the autocross/road race track. Right now my engine specs are as follows: Stock 82 Turbo Engine SDS EM-3E 440cc/min injectors Stock T3 Turbo NPR intercooler (The small one) 60mm TB Eclipse/DSM BOV 2.5" press bent exhaust Walbro GL392 Fuel Pump Exhaust is next on the list, so don't worry about that. Lets assume for arguement that I have a 3" mandrel bent system with a nice downpipe. Let's also assume I have Yoko A032's, coilovers, illuminas, LSD, and vented brakes. So, I am trying to decide on a turbo for my build. I am not after peaky power, or big dyno numbers. What I want is excellent throttle response, a broad torque curve and a very autocrossable car. To this end, I am thinking about a T3/T04B, 50 trim, .63ar turbine, .5ar compressor, stage 3 wheel. I'd like to be an honest 300+ rwhp, and 300+ ft-lbs of torque. So the question is, does this sound like a good turbo for this setup? What rpm do you guys figure boost will come on at, as well as what should my rev ceiling be? (approximately of course) The goal was to be well into boost by 2800rpm, and be able to rev to ~6200rpm or so, giving me a really nice torque curve. I'm determined to make the nay-sayers around town here eat their words when they say turbo's aren't good on an autocross track. (plus this is what I want from my car)

Roadholding is really dependant on tires... To me, it's still an useless stat to list in a magazine. Unless every car is tested on the same tires.

I think you'll find the two oil senders are quite different. At least the two engines I have here seem to be. (L28 and VG30)

Some can be a real bear... Heat cycling and penetrating oil is good, so make sure you have a torch and a can of something better than WD-40 handy. A big @$$ pipe wrench is a necessity as well.

The plural of mercedes is obviously mercedeseses.

Paint them all gunmetal, I think it will look really slick.