Drax240z

Start saving, and I'll take a bit of a poll among thsoe committed and see if they would mind bumping it back a bit.

I'd suggest a thermostat that opens in the 180-200F range... I'd tend more to the 180 end of the scale.

What DAW said, but I'd drop the oil pump and get the gear in the right spot to avoid confusion at a later date... It's a bit of a bitch, takes a couple of tries to get right usually, but it is worth doing it right. DAW's method will verify if you are out a tooth though.

I'm interested in seeing some plots/pics rick... I'm going to be in the market for some type of WB system soon.

Crap I didn't even read that part. Absolutely you should be running with a thermostat.

You should be at ~12* BTDC at idle, depending on your setup. (standard disclaimer here) Likely you've retarded timing all the way! The car wouldn' thave much punch at all at 0* timing at idle... Er actually, is there any chance you have the distributor gear out a tooth? You should be able to adjust in the 8-14* BTDC range if it is in the right spot no problem. The car will run if the distributor is 180* out. (most rotors cannot be installed backwards, the whole distributor, wires, cap etc would have to be) It will run like total crap if it does run, backfire through the intake, etc. If anyone has messed with the distributor, I'd take a look and make sure firing order is ok, timing is good, and go from there.

They are good quality parts, probably good to no more than ~200lbs/in spring rate. I've used them in a couple cars with good results.

The lack of a MT for this setup was always the biggest drawback to me... Personally I like inline 6's too.

Heh, the only way this will help you is if you are 180* off to start with.

Answer: $

I'd worry about your timing and mixture before spending money on anything else.... check your plugs and see if you are too lean. Run standard timing (what is it, 12* BTDC?) and richen up your mixture. Run high octane gas and make sure you aren't pinging. If you are still running too hot, then worry about other solutions.

If you take a look at the stock downpipe and exhaust combo, you'll see the reason for my description in the turbo FAQ. The top bend is a restricted 90* bend right out of the turbo, but that is not the worst part. The bottom bend (which is often changed with an aftermarket exhaust) is a crush-bent, wrinkle-walled piece of 2.5" pipe. (often hidden by heat shielding) This bottom bend is by far the worst part of the system, but I personally wouldn't fix it without redoing the whole system right up to the turbo. The gains from the mandrel bent 2 x 45* setups out there when compared to mandrel bent 2 x 90* bends is probably slim. However, the stock cast piece is not even close to flowing like a 2.5" mandrel bend. Scottie-GNZ back in his L6 days reported huge gains from his 45* downpipe & 3" mandrel bent exhaust conversion... BradD is another guy that did some research on the stock downpipe, eventually opting for a 3" downpipe with a diffuser to open it up from the stock outlet size. (2-1/8" IIRC) I'd be willing to bet everything I own that there is a noticeable seat of the pants improvement from the stock downpipe/wrinkle wall bend to the mandrel bent downpipe Scottie-GNZ had made, with a 3" exhaust installed after the downpipe. But hey, what do I know? As far as questioning the integrity of those offering up group buys on this board, I think you are quite out of line. These people put in a ton of their time, research and often their own money just to organize things to help out fellow Z enthusiests. Custom parts take a lot of time, and a sizable portion of money. I for one won't buy Jeff's exhaust (because it's for a ZX, and I don't have one) but I really appreciate the work and time he's put into making a well engineered system for people.

Until a few weeks ago I have had a Z as a daily driver for the previous 5 years. 280zx 2+2 Automatic - No mods. My first Datsun and one I learned to do a lot of wrenching on. Pretty reliable car, but dead slow. 240z - Dual SU, 2.4L, 5spd, 3.36 - Lots of issues with this car, daily driven for a year and a half. Looked good, but wasn't my favorite as a lot of stuff didn't work. Rusty in the bad spots, and ended up being parted out. 260z - Dual SU, 2.8L, 4spd, 3.90 not many other mods. A really quick car around town, and a lot of fun. Z's are strangely practical, you can fit quite a lot in the back. Gas milage was decent. Had no issues starting in the cold using the choke, though usually had to wait a minute before leaving or the car would bog. 240z turbo - The latest/last incarnation of a daily driven Z for me. EFi is great, starts well, runs well, and makes tons of power. Everything else I drive feels slow now. Good stereo, loud exhaust, and stiff suspension. I got a thrill out of driving this car every time I got into it. I've decided that the turbo car is too nice to drive daily in the winter (not to mention too squirrley) so I bought a winter beater. (95 Sunfire) No fun, good ecomony, everything works... but it's pretty boring as cars go. It's nice to have a trunk, and 4 seats do come in handy sometimes... but I couldn't care less about the car itself, and can't bring myself to put any money into it... it is thoroughly uninspiring. For me, I think I am happy daily driving a Z for 8+ months out of the year. The other 4 months I need to find something a bit better suited to the snow/rain/ice that is still somewhat fun to drive. (talon? ) My 2 cents.

I know the feeling Tim! Way to go!

A aquaintance of mine is doing the same thing... though a bit different of a package. http://www.super7cars.com/ I witnessed the performance of this car (well, Hanna, the first one he built, of many now) first hand, 0-60 in 3.4, 1/4 mile in 12.4... with street tires.

Always good to see another BC Z out there... Looking good Bob!

Woohoo, Craftsman roller cabinet... a few other goodies too but that's the big one.

Yeah there are a lot of variables to making power with an intake, I think I posted about 3 months ago with some of the things to consider.... However I am sure improvements can be made over the stock manifold with a custom manifold, smoother walls, air horns, etc.

Hard to tell from the webpage... but does this unit have RPM logging, or does it just display on the fly only?

Seems to me brake fittings are hard enough at the best of times to get apart, even without loctite. I would not add "loctite" (of which there are a bazillion different types, for very different applications from thread locking, to sealing, to releasing, to...) to a brake line. Brake fluid does not eat teflon, which is why stainless braided brake lines have a core made from teflon. Teflon tape is widely misused, and should only be used on a tapered thread. If the thread is doing the sealing for the fluid being transferred, then teflon tape is used. If the line seals in a different manner (flare, ferroule, etc) then all the threaded portion does is hold the parts together tightly, and they never are exposed to the fluid... hence teflon tape does nothing in that application. I've yet to see a brake system use a tapered thread anywhere, instead using flares to seal, so teflon tape isn't needed.

Well I just pulled my turbo intake off my car and compared it to the N42 intake I have. I am not sure what is the source of all the internet rumours about the turbo having bigger runners, but it sure doesn't measure up that way on the bench...... the difference in runner diameter varies from runner to runner, not just intake to intake. Imperfections in the casting causing it. So, I'm curious to know whether I am the only one who has always thought the turbo had bigger runners due to some source on the internet...

Hey not too bad! Some cool shots... I like quite a bit of it, but I think a smokey burnout, and a bit of tire squeal, engine sounds, or something like that faded in and out would have added to the experience. I wish I had a video camera around here.

Mounting the diff doesn't seem like the biggest obstacle to me... have you come up with something to get the CV's to work for you?

I tend to use acetone or a carb cleaner with acetone in it... I doubt it will attack clear, but it wouldn't surprise me if it did things to other paints.

It depends entirely on the options you want: http://www.sdsefi.com/prices.html