Drax240z

A long wheelbase will be better for high speed stability. Consider a 2+2 chassis.

On the other side of the coin: - 260z has a much nicer center console, and dash design IMHO. - 260z doorpanels are nicer - 260z taillights have the seperate reverse light (again, personal taste, but I prefer the looks of it to the 240z) However, I just sold my 260z in favour of my 240z. Go figure.

Brad, generally you'll buy the turbo complete. The exhaust side would likely be very similar to the nissan T3, but with a more efficient wheel. The Compressor side is from a full T04 compressor. Jam the two sides together and you have a hybrid turbo. There are a bazillion combinations, so saying what PSI it is good for is sortof meaningless. Generally these turbos are considered to be a really good street option because they spool fast, and move lots of air. Its easy to build a T3/T04 hybrid that will support 450rwhp... whether the L6 engine will support that is another question.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but it ain't gonna happen. While it MAY be possible to reach 240mph in a Z, it isn't going to happen in anything resembling street trim. The McLaren F1 needed something in the area of 13km to reach 231mph. Personally my gut instinct is that a Z cannot do 240mph, regardless of horsepower, or whatever mods you do. If you change it enough aerodynamically to reach these speeds, it won't be a Z. It won't look like a Z, and it won't have much of a Z left in it. Consider that the power increase required to go from 170mph to 240mph is roughly 2X. Sorry to be the pessimist (but I am)... With what you've described it isn't going to happen. Personally I'd shoot for 200mph as a starting point. You'll learn so much in reaching that goal that you will realize what it can take to get that extra 40mph for the NEXT project. Learn on the "slow" car. 200MPH in an early Z is a pretty lofty goal in itself. None the less, good luck!

I pretty much removed everything... and by pretty much, I mean totally. All the holes I welded up and ground flush, etc.

Verbatum from a previous post here: Ford Taurus Fan: I ran across a vehicle cross reference for the Taurus fan and a resource on where to get a new one if a person doesn't want to go the Salvage yard route: 86 - 95 Taurus / Sable 86 - 94 Lincoln Contenintal 94 - 97 Thunderbird New: http://www.autobodypartswholesale.com/cgi-bin/autobodypartswholesale/F160912.html

I'd expect to see some adjustable control arms available to the public before christmas. Don't ask me how I know this. While aluminum would be my choice for a race car, I would suggest a steel setup for the street. Honestly, the weight savings isn't worth it in anything but an all out track car. It's also much easier to design for an infinite fatigue life with steel, easier to work with, and less prone to failure from manufacturing defects. (and the parts will be cheaper in the end) I'm not going to say any more, because I don't want to divulge any secrets. Patient young grasshoppers.

Quick check for sulphur: Take your plug and a lighter, and burn the yellow deposits. Inhale the smoke. If you feel like you've just been teargassed its sulphur. (sulphur dioxide) Heh, OK not entirely recommended... there is probably a better procedure for this.

Hmmm, yes I do. It's in the July 2001 issue. I don't have a scanner at the moment, so I can't really get it online right now. Maybe someone else out there has the issue and will post it.

First instinct says you have sulphur deposits on your plugs... At least how you described. What kind of gas are you using?

Ackermann was origionally developed so that you wouldn't tear the crap out of your gravel driveway. Go figure. On cars with high front tire slip angles, anti-ackermann is run. I think I have a writeup from racecar engineering on ackermann somewhere here...

A change in the right direction I think Terry, looking good.

The other option of course is to make your steering knuckles adjustable in and out. (granted, probably not quite as easy) But you could quicken steering at the same time as adjusting ackerman if it was desired.

Hey Scott, if you decide to go with a bigger turbo I might be interested in getting your current turbo from you. Email me at: drax77@shaw.ca Since Boundary Bay I've got 2 guys here that want me to build cars like yours for them. You made some good impressions with it.

I'd happily buy from C&R or visteon again... good companies and great products.

15"x6" honduh wheels. (American Eagle) Using bolt on adapter.

It was a fairly exciting race due to the championship being at stake. (the race itself wasn't exceptional) I was really hoping to see Raikkonen as the youngest champion in F1 history though... but he can try again for that title next year! Crazy. So, does Schumi retire now? I think so....

Hey Rebel, how does it look with a thin bumper through that grill area? Just looks a little too open for my tastes.

I have the exact same issue, though not with the stock EFI system. I basically let the pump run for about 6 seconds before starting, and then it will start, but sortof roughly. It takes 15 seconds or so before it actually runs right. I'm just now thinking that this may be related to the miss I get a light throttle cruising... Everyone changed their plug wires lately?

I believe the BS reference is towards a turbo L6 being faster than a V8Z. I'm not even going to argue the idiocy of this statement. It's akin to saying "ALL chevys are faster than ANY honda" The moderators and administrators have done what we feel is necessary to cut down on the repetative, and sometimes simplistic questions that were being posted here in the past. In my eyes, the changes had definately taken us in a step in the right direction. However, with that said, we believe it is better to make "tweaks" a little at a time, rather than a whole bunch at once. Hence the consolidation of a few forums. We went through and did the easy ones to see if it made a difference, and it has. Will we do more consolidation? If the need arises. As far as DAW's comments, they are poorly worded and in poor taste. The idea may warrent discussion by the hybridz community, so here is a chance to discuss it. Stepping back from a moderators role for a second, I would be quite upset to see the high-performance L6 crowd being tossed on their ear, so to speak. Yes this started as a V8 swap site, but it has grown to be the epitome of what a technical high performance forum should be. Furthermore, people here have for the most part shown that there is common ground for all Z and speed enthusiests here, regardless of their choice of parts. I'd hate to see this site start discriminating against a certain group (L6 turbo'rs for example) because of their choice of engine. This is what led to the formation of hybridz and the departure of many members from zcar.com in the first place, except instead of the turbo L6'ers it was the V8 cars being put in the spotlight. Regardless of your feelings as to who deserves to post on this forum, I would suggest that you ask yourself "is so-and-so's goal the same as mine?" I would expect that likely 99% of the membership here has the same goal: To build a ridiculously fast car, based on a Datsun Z. If the destination is the same, why hate because the paths we choose to get there are different?

I think if I had to do it over again I'd use Delrin instead of poly urethane for the steering coupler... A bit more feedback and a bit less mush, though the Poly bushings are a large improvement over worn out stock rubber bushings.

Terry, I really echo Zach comments. Your's is one of the few highly modified cars (of any type) that when you look at it, you wonder if it came from the factory that way. It looks like a supercar. In fact, that was probably what the guy in the RX7 was commenting about, figuring that you had spent $250,000 to buy your car like that from the factory! Kudos on a very innovative and well executed design.

I was thinking about that too Jon, but it could still work. Granted at low boost pressures and RPM, you'd lose efficiency, and since that is probably where most of the driving takes place, it might not be feasible for a daily driver. However, a car that see's highrpm duty and is rarely out of boost SHOULD be able to benefit from this increased efficiency. The difficult part as I see it is to tune the cam profile. Even just going into the mechanism portion of the crank/piston and cam model would be useful, but I would think you'd want to delve much deeper than that, and consider the fluid dynamics of the whole equation...... Hard to do without some very expensive software to say the least. (GT-Power would do it if you had the time/money) And the problem with just testing, is there is no easy way to change cam profiles on the fly. You'd need a few custom ground cams IMHO, and have to swap them and compare back-to-back on a dyno to really know what's working and what isn't.... And even then I'd probably suggest starting with a DOHC engine so you could adjust intake cam timing and get a bit more data that way. OK, so it isn't a project for the light hearted. Looking at some big money and time to find any real results I'd expect!

Hijacking the topic for a second: Stirling cycle engines are just plain cool, but wouldn't be likely in a car due to power/weight/size. One of the coolest things about the stirling cycle is that if you power the fan on the engine with hand crank, or electric motor, you have a refridgerator. I wonder if old Robert Stirling firgured out that part in the 1800's when he invented it. There is no reason why a miller cycle engine couldn't be turbocharged that I see... it is a neat idea. Hmmmmmm.

Granny shifting is shifting well before redline instead of winding the engine out between each shift.