biohzrd

thought of some more prodigy pressure rob zombie dragula pod bodies hit the floor bush machine head

ac/dc hells bells and who made who

i got into setting it all up and do it myself but have decided to let the guy at lt1intake do it. i know if i put my mind and effort into it i could but i would also hate to scew up a good manifold. and for 200 bucks thats good insurance to me. plus he's done it alot and knows the "tricks" involved. i have a friend here that messed one up trying to do it and had to spend about a hundred bucks to have it welded up. after he got it together and installed it's really an improvement. mpg went from 14 to 18 and he dropped 7 tenths in the quarter. all around much more pleasant to drive. i would suggest it to anyone considering it. it's really not a whole lot more expensive then a carbed setup in the end.

let us know how it turns out

count me in aswell!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i know its a little off subject but for the r230 out of a q45 what years do you look for. also if it has traction control or not. are all q45 rears lsd or are there different versions. i can find alot of q45 rears and was just wondering

i've heard mixed thoughts on both the 200r4 and the 700r4. around here most of the people who are running overdrives use the 200r4. the gearing is not so radical and they can be built to handle the same hp a th350 can. i know a couple of guys running into the 700hp range on thier 200r4's with know problems. on the other hand i only know of one 700r4 that is holding up. in the end i don't think you can really go wrong with either as long as it's built correctly.

another thing that may help. try going to www.speedguide.net and download a patch for your o.s. what it does is "tweaks" your registry for max flow in both directions

i'm probly about to open myself up here for a real "fun" time but let me tell you a little something about what you've got. and the way i know this is b/c it's what i do for a living. i'm a network tech for cox communuicationc and i work with this stuff every day. 1st of all a ping time of 40 to 80 ms is not acceptable. your ping rates should average about 10 to 20ms steady. these times can be effected by a lot of things. by him asking you to bypass your splitter he was simply trying to get you as much signal as possible. 300ms is total bull$#!%. what it may be is a simple issue of an elevated common path shelf, or noise which is what they have techs to fix. i noticed that you stated you live in an apt. if your apts are like most it was probly wired with the cheapest rg-59 wire. it is horrible for passing signal. BUT more then likely its a problem with them. off the top of my head without being at you node, hub, system amp, ect.... it sounds like noise. all of the " backfed crap" such as elec back feed, ingress or egress will hamper in the return signal back to the hub feeding you. the other problem i think it maybe is the fact of sheer overload. you see the way it's set up is you have multiple forward fibers and usually one return fiber from each hub. ("a hub is where the fiber from the head end goes to a common point closer to you and gets split into multiple fibers to get to the node that feeds you. a node is what converts light to rf signal). sorry about that. i thought a little clarification was in order. they can fix the overload problem by basically activating more reciever/transmitter cards. it sounds to me as if they are just being a--holes.what i would do is call the local office and demand that a technician comes out a checks the service. if the guy they send out can't fix it then tell him/her that you would like to have your node checked for common path and noise. that blow thier minds more than likely. i hope this helps bio

the same guy who sold me the intake is also going to give me his harness. he went from an auto to the t56 and certain things are not working on the car as a result. that being the case he is going to get the correct harness for his car and sell me his old one for around 50 bucks. he works for a local gm dealer and they will just warranty out one for him. aka free + shipping. as far as the ecm goes i'll figure out something when it gets to that point. i'll get ya'll some pics when i start the process.

last night i got an lt1 intake with the injectors and throttle body for the grand total of a 100 bucks. i just couldn't pass it up. i'm going to convert it to fit onto the older style heads. should be fun..

yeah i found that site befor and thats the only reason i got the lt1. i've always wanted to inject a high hp motor but didn't like that 900 dollar price tag that comes with the miniram

johnc is the setup your talking about better for the strip or auto+.

the first thing to do is GIVE IT A TUNE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!.. what i mean by that is change everything. oil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, belts, anything else thats rubber and may be dry rotted, drain the gas tank and check for rust, coolant, gear oil, everything.. i hope this helps some. i know it sounds like alot and it is but its the only way to be safe. some things you may not have to change. just look real close at them. be sure that after you get it going to keep a close eye on things. stuff seems to jump up at you after a car sits up for a while. and change all your filters. and let me be the first to welcome you " i've been wanting to say that". this is a great site and please don't be hesitant to ask questions. everyone is welcom here

to go in a little different direction. i always had a thought of trying to put the ford svo v6 in a z. i think they were rated at 225 hp from factory with the potetial for much more. plus i hate to say it but that was a gorgeous motor to look at.

more than likely it will be primarily used for the strieght line saturday night drags. i know that it's almost impossible to get the best of both worlds( one can dream though). i don't want to "loose" of a suspension for drag race only. but one that will hook up good and have relativily good "street" manners for the occational curvy roads. i don't need it to handle like a ferrari on the curves but i would like to feel safe. i plan on using 17x8 rims with 275's on the rear and 245's on the front. the way i figure (and im probly totally wrong) is that the increased contact patch of the tires should help out in the handling over the stock setup. i would really like is to find out what type of setups people on this sight are using and how they perform. ie spring lengths, lbs , ect.... i know that with the hp my motor is putting out that it should be in the mid to low 10's in the 1/4 mile. i would be willing to give up a few tenths in lew of safty on the street. by the way . i went to the dyno yesterday with my friends motor which is almost identicle to mine and it belted out 590hp @ 6500 and 511 lbft @ 5500 through mufflers. with a little bit more tuning it should hit that 600 hp mark we were hoping for. and again thanks for the help

i hate to be the bearer of bad news but thats not a 400. if its a one piese rear main and 4 bolt its going to be a 87' and up model block. gm stopped making 400's around the late 70's. as far as what it is exactly the only way to know is by checking the casting #'s. BEFORE you start sinking a lot of $$$$$ in it find out what you have. it would be a shame to to buy parts that don't fit.

oh come on guys. i know there has to some one out there who can help me out in this department......... hello.... anybody......

what i'm looking to have is a suspension that will work well for both auto+ and drag strip usage. i'm looking at coil overs all the way around for better rim and tire sellection as well as function. what would you guys suggest. what pound springs,length,ect....... who makes a good decently priced kit that is not trying to rip you off. i'll have close to 600 hp and around 5oo lbtq so the suspension will really be put to it's test. i'm looking at already doing a five lug conv. and would also like to have bigger, better brakes. as always any help is greatful

thanks alot for the pics. that really helps being able to see it. by the way. thanks for all the photo documenting. i know it's a big help for me aswell as others.

thanks for the info. i understand that the jtr mounts are strong enough don't get me wrong, but like terry said i'm wanting to tie the entire car together and make it act as one unit. this was the main reason i was wanting to go with the plate setup. it just seems like the best setup for me. terry if you don't mind telling me where did you connect the front and rear plates at, and is vibration that appearent.

i should give you a little background on the combo i'll be using for the project and the reason i'm wanting to use the plates. the motor is going to be a 383 stroker with 588 hp and 506 ft tq. this of course is befor any spray that i may end up using at a later date. i'm looking for as rigid and stable of a mount as possible. this last weekend i bent the frame on my camaro with a less radicle engine then whats going to go in the z. i fully intend on putting in a cage, strut braces, ect....ect.... i'll give up a little comfort for peice of mind that i'm not going to tweak anything. i'm also not looking at going in a streight line all the time either. we finally got a true auot+ track here and want to persue that aswell. unfortunatly i still want the car to be as streetable as possible with a/c and a full interior. i know it's going to be a pain but it's one i want to persue. i guess have my cake and eat it too. i also thought about the mods to my belt setup aswell. i think i should be able to either have a water pump machined down or as you stated just use shims. i'll be using an electrical fuel pump and will be blocking off the mount for that. maybe terry can read this and give me some hints

i understand what you're saying about the vibration issue. that would be a down side to doing it. i saw a person one time put a piece of 1/4 inch rubber in between the frame and the plate to combat this. as his was connected using a piece of angle iron welded to the plate on each side and then bolted to the frame. i doudt that it would have fixed the problem totally but i'm sure it helped. as for the car it will mainly be a weekend car for going to the local hangouts and the track. not to much actual "driving" is planned for it.

i was debating mounting my engine with plates instead of mounts. i figured it would allow me to place the engine pretty much anywhere i wanted and would also help in the overall strength of the car by acting as an additional cross member. let me know what ya'll think.

whats wrong with the msa flairs. is it the flairs or something about msa