biohzrd

not only that.... what kind of hp. very impressive

i can get a tall deck 350 diesel block for 150 bucks. my question is this. how much can you bore one of these blocks. is it possible to bore it from the 4.00 bore to say around 4.150. i know the walls are a lot thicker then a normal block. i was doing some thinking and i just don't feel comfortable with putting 10+ psi to a .030 400 block. the walls would be to thin and would eventually begin to crack. i know i may have to buy a motown or bowtie block but don't like the price tag that comes with them. if anyone knows what is a possible over bore on a diesel block please let me know. thanks

has come in handy a couple of times for those quick computations. it's called virtual engine calculator version 2.20. you can get it for free at www.virtualengine2000.com i compared it to desktop dyno 2000 and its pretty darn accurate. best of all its FREE!!!!

if the motor is going into a z you shouldn't need to worry about low end tourque. any motor that can use a vic jr is more then capable of moving it of idle.

thats right all you people that are cursed by the sniffer for CARB i have good news. my father in law works for exxon/mobile here in baton rouge and said he has some updates on a new fuel. he is in charge of building a new unit here at the chem. plant for a new no sulfer gasoline. this means that the gases coming out of the exhaust will be less harmful b/c of the lack of sulfer. this also means that there will no longer be a need for a cat in you exaust. it's primary purpose is to act as a "scrubber" so to speak to eleiminat the sulfer out of the exhaust. this is why when moisture collects in them they smell like rotten eggs. he says it should bring do the emissions on a normal car by about 35% to 40%. hope this helps out all ya'll out west pass the sniffer

a friend of mine knows where you can purchase a re-ring kit and gasket set complete for 115 bucks. thats everything bearings, rings, gaskets, and assembley lube. the rings are also moly. about the only other things you would need is a timing set, cam and lifters. i think most of your mail order houses such as jegs and summit offer that as a kit aswell. if you intrested i'll get you thier phone # and you can call them

go to www.grapeaperacing.com he doesn't make a kit but can tell you alot about what you'll need to know to do it. i too am planning on doing a twin turbo sbc good luck with your project

i too was noticing the similarities of it and the gnose. man seems like a waste

i've ran a remote dual oil filter kit before along with a cooler and it would take just shy of 8 quarts to fill completely. plus i found that after 3000 miles the oil would still be clear and unscorched. may help out with your ground clearance issues

i don't know very much about that type of stuff. he did tell me that the newer fuel will have a higher octane characteristic to it. in the future they may do away with 87oct altogether. the fuel is supposed to be cleaner burning overall. in fact the goverment is so impressed with it that they are putting up a fairly large chunk of change to help it along. if it means anything the new unit is named "california" . they hope to have it up and running by the summer of 2005. it may seem like a long time but having worked in these plants and seeing the size this thing is going to be, thats a pretty amazing goal. this one overall section is going to cost an estimated 4.6 billion bucks and is going to cover an area of 112 acres.

here again i think it comes down to a feeling of safty. on a normal street engine or even one that see's some track use i don't think its a nessecity. on a motor that you intend on autocrossing or are going to race often then i would probly put it in. it really depends on the cam you run.if your running a big cam then definantly

if thats the case out west then i think they need to belly up the bar so to speak and pay to have all the cars " brought up "to modern times. uuhh yeah i guess i'll have the ls1 with the t56 to go. love to see that day

thanks that helps alot. i was kinda thinking that but was unsure.i may be going the twin turbo route. playing on desktop2000 i've got a combo good for 900+hp. i'm going nuts.

i was just wondering about something. with a 383 stroker you would use a 400 balancer and flywheel.what about when you build a 377ci. (400 with a 350 crank) would you use the 400 balancer and flywheel as on the 383/400 or would you use a 350 balancer and flywheel. if anyone could help out with this i would appreciate it.

auxilary is right on with that. another thing that i've found with high performance exspecialy those running headers is venting. some of my friends as was i were having problems with over heating and we tried everything. one day i ran my car with a remote thermometer under the hood and it was getting pretty hot and of course first came the ever present vapor lock and then overheating. i put a friends cowl hood and guess what. temp under the hood dropped by 40 to 50 degrees and no over heating or vapor lock. performance also increased because a cooler more open air flow. 1/4 times dropped by a tenth on average. may give it a shot

well it's a bored 400 sbc. -2 valve relief trw forged pistons -cam is 234/244 @50 duration and .498/.508 lift w 114 lobe sep. -edelbrock rpm air-gap intake -holley 750 dp -dart iron eagle 215 heads -roller rockers -msd 6al box and dist./wires -hooker 1 5/8s full length headers with 2 1/2 inch 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers that pretty much somes it up. a good street driven motor with good hp and tq on hand

they have a 30cc dish in them. i may be a little off on my math but that should put the comp ratio at about 8.5 to 1. from what i gather from your quote thats not optimal but it is turbo friendly. my machenist said that he would suggest o-ring block/heads and using 1/2 inch head studs for safty sake. i've already got splayed 4 bolt mains so that should help aswell. these are the rods i'm looking at for it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1812202369&r=0&t=0 for do you think of this setup. i havn't decided on a cam yet but it will be a roller of some sort and will be used with a set of pro lightening heads. as usual any help is apprieciated.

i was just given a set of bill miller ent. race pistons. here is my delima. the comp hght is 1.235 which means a normal 5.565 400 rod is to short with a normal stroke of 3.750. the bore is 4.150 which would give me 5 thousandths clearance in the bores. "good to me b/c i want a looser engine". what i've found is this. i could run a 3.48 stroke crank with 6.0 rods and get a hgth of 8.975 which is 25 thous. below a zero deck hgth of 9.00. is this amount that critical or could i live with this. i plan on running twin turbos on my next build up so i thought this would aid in the lower comp ratio. my other questions are could i go below a zero deck hgth and two would any of this work at all. any help would be great.

i found a set of full lengths that look like they may work but i'm not hundred % sure. go to this site and look at the part # thy-327y http://www.thorleyheaders.com/gm_headers.html

with that much lift i would suggest guide plates and screw in studs. when you get into lift that high the press in studs have a problem with pulling out which is never good.make sure that your springs are also up to the challenge. although your valvetrain has alot of pieces to it they all have to work as one unit. otherwise you will not get the full benifit of a bigger cam

well it is usually better to have a shop do it. if you want to do it yourself you can. buy a set of head gaskets for a 400 and mark the steam holes. as far as how deep to go thats easy. just drill until you hit the water passages. usually it's about a 1/4 inch thick.

well i got the reply from arizonaz today concerning thier body kits today. this is the e-mail he sent me. No we are not making anymore fiberglass. All the molds are for sale as a set for $32,000.00 or the body kit molds are available for $6500.00 per body set. seems a little bit steep to me considering i saw a guy selling a complete cobra mold including doors and interior pieces for 4000. oh well i thought ya'll would like to know.

this was brought up on this site a while back. http://www.lt1intake.com/. i'm sure that you could use just about any type of multi point comp to make it work. i'm debating doing it in the future.

has anyone used or seen one of these kits. i would like to see some more pics if possible. the only pics i've seen have been from the front only and look like they really clean up the aeordynamics alot. any help would be great.

if i only knew half the things grumpy knew. you are deffinantly the supreme engine guy. it's a great luxury to be able to bounce ideas off you. i'm just going to start calling you the human dyno.