biohzrd

that kinda sucks. i wonder how much he wants for the molds. i may have to call him. i'll let ya'll know what i find out.

that one is close but this is the one i was talking about. http://www.arizonazcar.com/bodies.html is this the same fellow that makes you buy the entire kit at once or is that someone else. i remember hearing nothing but negative feed back on one of these after market body suppliers and would like to know if this is the same guy

do you know if it wold be an lsd style rear or open

can anyone tell me what this rear end would be? i have a line on one and was wondering if it would be worth it. any help would be helpful

i know that ti valves are the only thing the nascar guys use. they usually put more abuse on a motor in 500 miles then we would in 5000 and have no real problems to speak of. if your looking for a cheaper sorce for them try ebay. i've seen complete sets of them go for $65.00. they are used and you probly need to get them machined to fit but thats dirt cheap in my opinion. i get alot of my parts from a friend who is an engine builder for joe gibbs racing. they will run an engine on a dyno and if it doesn't make the #'s they wanted they rip it apart and scap the parts. just some more info for ya'll

from the things i've read in this forum it's usually not the diff you have to worry about. the u-joints and half shafts are the problem points. one of the more popular swaps is to use a latter model 280zx turbo rear and it comes with cv shafts.

the 307 is kind of a mule. tou can get 300 hp out of them as you can any v-8. with the abundance of 350 blocks out there i'd probly try and find one of them. like the old term says" there is know substatute for cubic inches"

i've never seen that kit before but i like it. it really looks like it would help the aerodynamics of the car

your going to laugh but the best way i've found to transport a motor in a truck is to use a couple of old tires. it keeps the engine from moving and also cushions the blows.

don't suppose you know where i could get pics. or info about it do you

i talked to my buddy yesterday who owns a machine shop and asked him if he could make adapters for wheels, cv joints and so on. he said it would be know problem if i got him the plans. if anyone out there is good with auto cad and would want to take the time to produce plans let me know and i can have it made. he said you can make anything fit it just comes down to how bad you want it and how good your machinist is.lol let me know or just email me

i was just wondering if anyone had ever thought or heard of anyone performing a v8 swap into a latter model 240sx. my friend has one with a blown motor and was wondering how hard it would be. i would not mind knowing myself. it seems like it should fit into the engine bay ok but i was wondering about the weight diff. what do you guys think

looks pretty trick. did you make the oval pipe by compressing a bigger dia. pipe or did you order it. i think its got to be better for ground clearance. by the way how does it sound

i'm sure this has been covered before but i can't find it anywhere. i was wondering a couple of things. 1: how hard is it to replace the rear quarters on a 70 240 2: where can you find replacements at. 3 i am planning on using flared fiberglass fenders all the way around. do these connect to the rear quarters in front of the wheel at the bottom. if anyone has done this or knows of a past thread i could look at i would be thankful

i'll save you some time . its an 86 thru 88 block with a one piece rear main seal. 350 ci

you might try www.chevymania.com i know the guy who runs it and i know he can tell you what the block is.

i was just wondering what the differance was between a turbo for a diesel engine and one from a gas engine? are they interchangable. i have a line on a couple of turbos off the newer model ford powerstroke. these are new in the boxes and were not supposed to have come here. as a result the dealer was throwing them away!!!! can you believe that. me and my buddy picked them up and took them home. if they are usable on a gas motor i would like to know. may end up building a turbo motor

one word SWEET how is the fit on them. they look like thet really feel up the wheel well

basically its a 400ci block bored .30 over. the crank has a 4.0" stroke and you have to use 6 inch rods. put it all together and you've got 433.9 ci. the best of both worlds. big block cubic inches and the reving ability and light weight of a small block. gotta love it

well since i started the post i'll update all of you on my new motor in the works. stoked 400 to 434ci. lots of cam and induction. to cut to the chase 598hp @6250 rpm and 577ft tq @2700 rpm. this is without spray. i will be putting a 150 shot on it and i'll let you do the math. god you've got to love having a company truck to drive to and from work. lets me have my cake and eat it to p.s. anyone think i can break into the 10s or just alot of parts trying. hahaha

i totally agree with ron. the better the quality parts on the bottom end the better. the chance of a block living with a rod failure at 6000+ rpm is not good. in my case i'd really be out of luck. i run a 400 block and to find a good one is getting harder everyday. higher quality doesn't alway have to come at a higher price. shop around and do some research. i would also shy away from used rods and cranks unless you know who your getting them from.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601389495 looks like a pretty good deal to me. even comes with a warrantee

got me there. i can't pick out the manuals as good as the autos. i may look into going that route sometime in the future. it looks like it may be a good way to get one stop shopping. complete ready to go and if it blows oh'well. thats what the warrantee is for.

about the only type of rods i'll put in a motor for performance use are h-beams. in the past they were to expensive but now they are aren't too bad. they are more then up to the challenge that just about any streetable engine could dish out at them. i feel the extra $$$ spent on the bottom end is well worth it in the long run. just a more comfy feeling to me in case i over rev or spray it longer than need be. just my thought on it though

boy grumpy you sure know some stuff thats a pretty nice formula. thanks for the help