Georgia Flash

Thanks Jeromio, I have two old car hoods to get some metal from these wouldn't have the afformentioned zinc coatings would they? One is off an 80's Chevrolet Caprice and the other is from a small Chrysler product. I have been thinking about getting the gas canister hooked up to my welder and may well do it now. Again thanks to all for the input

Also, how close do you put the tip or nozzel to the piece that is being welded? The owners manual is unclear about this. They say while tuning the welder you should "drag" the nozzle across the piece while adjusting the wire speed with the other hand. Is this to say you actually touch the piece of metal with the tip of the wire welder?

Nope, flux core and .35 wire

I found this thread by doing a search so here we go guys lets start this sucker back up again! No one answered the one guys question about the Campbell Hausfeld welder. I too have bought one of these except mine is the $299.00 version with the optional gas hook up. Now the question I have is this. I tried to weld in a piece of sheet metal to cover a hole in the floor board and literally burned a hole through my existing floor and the sheet metal. I had the welder set on the lowest setting that I could and still this happened. Whats going on here and what should I do? Please do not say just take it back and swap it! I need input input input

Hey J. Welch, I saw some of those stock hub caps on ebay the other day that were brand new still in the bag! Well they were NOS anyways. The owner said something to the effect that they had never been on a car. I do not now if they are still there but you can run a search on Datsun and you should be able to find them. I think the stock hub caps would be the ultimate Sleeper Z look.

Racer X you da man One quick question. I have sprayed most of the rear of my Z in the puke green stuff and it has been on there for a couple of weeks. Now since you say that you should spray on the regular primer when the green stuff "flashes" what do I do now? Can I sand the green stuff when I get ready to use the regular primer? Or will this not work? Oh by the way you can now see my car as I found it er uh...in the ruff so to speak

Has anyone tried to mount the front side markers a little further back on the front fenders? Kinda like the old SAABS of the 80's-90's. I had the idea of just going down to my local salvage/gold yard to find some of these but ran across some brand new generic lights at the advance auto store the other night. They sold for about $20 a pair were clear with an amber light inside. Very cool.

I think everybody is confused LOL

Ok once again I am confused! When I first got my Z it had a lot of surface rust. I quickly sanded the rusty areas to bare metal and having good common sense, I primered the areas using grey primer. It didn't take long till the surface rust started coming back through the primer! Now at the time I was taking an auto mech class at the local vo-tech school and all the folks there said never to just paint over bare metal with primer. Yes even the paint and body shop teacher said this. They all said that regualar primer is porus and that you should use an etching primer. Even the guy who works in an automotive paint store for a living did not hesitate when I ask him about painting over bare metal, he grabbed a can of etching primer. Also I have since removed all the rubber sound deadening material on the floor pans, tranny tunnel, and rear hatch area. What did I find? Looks like that puke green etching primer that the Datsun factory sprayed on way back in 1975! Just my 2cents worth. ps. Racer x I have long be a fan of yours since coming to this site, so I do not mean to offend, I am just a confused little old man right now when it comes to this etching primer thing

I sand blasted the rear taillight panel of my z and will be doing a lot of blasting under the hood once the inliner comes out. I am relatively new to painting so when I went to pick up sand for the blaster at the local Dupont paint store ((go Jeff Gordon)) I told the guy that I was going to need a primer for bare metel. He sold me some etching primer. It goes on nice and is a puke green color. Now I have no idea what "etching primer" does but I used it like he said. There are some great guys here who know a lot about painting so maybe one of them will help out. Good Luck.

Beware the silver dollar holes sometimes turn into huge ones once you get in there and poke around a little. Congrats on the find and good luck in your project

Almost forgot Lone, the price was around the $800 range for a 79 Chevy 4 bolt main engine.

I have a pamphlet for the Recon engine and it says: "All crank shafts are supplied at no greater than .030" undersize and all are accurately balanced. Every crankshaft is polished to a mirror smoothness." So I don't know where the .040" came from but that's not what they advertise. Grumpy are you listening to all this? If so HELP! I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go for a guy on a broken shoe string budget that doesn't care to race his Z-8 and just wants it to look and sound good.

Thanks to all of you who gave input. I will probably not go with the recon now and just find a used camaro or something with a V-8 in it so that I have all the stuff for it. Then I will just have it rebuilt. Again thanks.

Hi all, I went to my local Advance Auto Parts store tonight and picked up some pamphlets on their crate motors and trannys. Here is my questions: The motor is a "Recon" remanufactured engine and the tranny is made by "Accurate." I guess my question is, are these things reliable and can I run the edelbrock rpm manifold and carb set up and get decent performance? Thanks in advance guys.

Thanks Mike, I will give her a try

Hey guys, I have a 71 Ford F-100 with 302 and automatic tranny. Do any of you know of a web site similar to this one that I could go to for my truck? It has dreaded drum brakes on all four corners and I would like to get some information on possibly upgrading them to disks. Thanks,

I thought that all R180's didn't have the bolt up half shafts and all R200's did. This is one of the ways to tell the two apart, uh so I thought. Isn't this right? Now I'm confused and may be questioning whether or not I have a R200 in my 75.

Nope the tank is still there in my truck behind the seat no less. Yep it is a shame that there are places like that shop out there ripping people off. I went there on the advise of a friend who said it was a "good place" to do that kinda work. The only thing is they will never get any of my business again, radiator or gas tank service. You live and learn I guess. I think that I will try to do my 280 tank myself. In the "How to Restore Your Datsun Z car" book by Wick Humble he shows how to do it. This may be the route I take.

Ah yes good ole Georgia Radiator shops. Beware of the workmanship at some of these places. I took my tank out of my 1971 Ford F-100 a while back and took it to a local shop in Rome GA. to have this proceedure done. They drilled a dime size hole in the top left side of the tank and then slaped some type of solder on it. Looked like $h!t! To top it off the thing started leaking the next day at the solder spot and had to be took back in to be re soldered with a full tank of gas! I asked the guy why he drilled a hole in my tank when there were numerous other holes already in there, vent line holes, sending unit hole, filler neck etc... He said they had to have somewhere to dump the tank liner out of the tank

My wife has a 1992 240SX hehehe, I told her to watch it or I might have to swipe hers when she's not looking uhh I probably shouldn't, she loves that little car as much or more than I love my Zeeeeeesssssss so she would probably kick me in the Jimmy if I pulled a stunt like that I was thinking on calling Auto Zone today and check that price out.

SCCA, Thanks I will be seriously thinking about buying these suckers for my Z! Is there anything different on the 280 vs the 240 set up?

What rotor and calipers are used in this conversion? And also I have a 280(75) what will be the differences for doing this on the 280? Someone mentioned not having to cut off a dust cover or something. Finally someone has got me going in the right direction for rear disk brakes((I hope)). I posted a question about doing a conversion a while back and only got one response. It was the usual "go do a search on brakes response" I did and all it got me was confused. Too much and different info! So I am finally happy to see something that I believe would be easily done by me.

Blueovals this is off the thread topic, just wanted to say that your car kicks A$$!!!!!

What is the canister for again? I always thought it was for some type of fuel tank venting or something. My 1971 Ford F100(with 302 V-8) has one so I thought that all cars had to have them. If I go strickly bare bones with my Z-8 car is it possible or wise to just leave the little black canister off?