strokerzedd

I've looked at a lot of photos trying to determine which way to hook up the 240z heater core hoses on the firewall to an RB26. The top 240z heater core hose in the firewall is the heatercore outlet and bottom the inlet. Is the connection on the back of the RB26 block or on the back of the water tube the inlet? I wasn't able to find the info in either Skyline Maintenance manual found on this site either. Where's the best place to get the brake booster vacuum on the 240z from off the RB26? Anyone heard of a clutch booster on an RB26 clutch, and if so, is it required? Can I remove the vacuum lines that move from the intake manifold side through the front cover to the turbo side when I've changed to HKS turbos? I'm not sure were they went originally. I was contemplating taking off the vacuum spider beneath the intake manifold but apparently the AEM 1621U uses this system to control the idle as well as the oem ecu. Any thoughts?

Mike, I didn't mean to download that file, but I have perused all of your build files and they helped me along the way. I'm just sorting out the air cleaner input and I think for now I'll have to get by with two conical air filters just behind the radiator and under the turbo air to intercooler pipe. I'll build an aluminum box/heat shield to force as much cold air as as possible from the lower hole in the rad support. I wanted to put the air filter in front of the rad support like I had with my 3.1 litre stroker but I ran out of room. It's a tight space. I just want to get the car running and then I'll look into new intake and turbo to intercooler piping. There are so many Z RB26 conversions out there I'm hoping more will share their photos and experience with removing the coolant/vacuum lines. NZeder, where did these dcoe's throttle bodies come from? Are they Webers? On my 3.1 litre my Weber 40 dcoe's weren't big enough and I had to change to 45 Mikuni's, big difference. A Z that got 13 mpg! I've enclosed more photos of the vacuum lines both on the block and the spider. Of the two connectors on the front of the intake manifold throttle plate there are two electrical connectors, the yellow one is the engine temp sensor. What's the other one?

I'm intrigued by what you're doing. Is this your idea or have you seen it somewhere else and if so, any pictures? So the whole AAC spider is in place to modulate the throttle and for emissions purposes and running a standalone ECU will provide all of the control we need?

My 3.1 stroker had a big lumpy 505 degrees lift/300 degrees duration cam and I loved the sound so much I recorded 5 minutes of it idling before I pulled it and sold it to make way for my RB26. I've got the 280 Degree, Lift 10.8 cam and if mine sounds anywhere as good as this I'll be ecstatic!

Thanks for the photos. It's a lot easier to work on without any sheetmetal. Years ago I added 2 1/4" square tubing within the existing unibody frame rails, extending it with rectangular tubing back to the diff and then extra metal around the strut towers and braced them as well. I remember being really nervous about relocating the suspension points and the crossbrace and hoping that it was all going to be square again! It was. The frame rails weren't rusted, I just wanted the chassis really stiff, the car handles like a slot car. My friends used to come and watch me braze. I'd broken my hand skiing and the cast and bandages kept catching fire while I brazed, but I just plunged it in a pail of water and kept brazing! Now does anyone else have any photos to offer of a less ambitious transplant possibly using the stock intake manifold and the resultant coolant and vacuum lines?

Stony, I've spent a lot of time looking at the photos of your cars in helping me decide how to build my car. You were able to leave the AAC and Air regulator and all of the vacuum/coolant lines off of the bottom of the intake manifold? Which coolant lines did you attach the firewall heater core lines to? What about the vacuum lines that run around both the back and front of the motor? Do you have any close up photos? I've included a few more of mine, some of them might help others. RB26-Part 12 Fit engine & gearbox.pdf R33 Trans_mounts.pdf

Wow! I started my project 2 years ago and it will finally be on the road next spring. Your car was the inspiration for my build and now you've raised the anti!

I'm getting closer to the end of my RB26 install into a '72 240z. With aftermarket turbos/cams/pistons/rods/porting etc but retaining the stock intake manifold, what vacuum lines etc don't I have to put back on the car? Are there emissions/cooling/vacuum lines etc that are redundant? I thought that I took lots of pictures upon disassembly 2 years ago, but not enough as I've discovered! I've perused the manuals and collected upwards of 1000 photos from the various forums that have helped a lot but I haven't found a thread that deals specifically with what you can leave off. In the photos below there's a picture of my second generation tanny mount that I hope will help in installing a 3" exhaust pipe as well as my new gauge cluster. The dash cap that I had to glue on wouldn't allow me to take the stock speedo or tach out from the front and so with great trepidation I took the dash out and cut it up. I canvassed our local wrecking yard and brought home several Japanese car gauge pods and put this one together. Now the whole plate comes out with 4 screws and has made the rewiring process so much easier. I still incorporated signal light arrows and a bright light indicator. I took lots of construction photos if anyone is interested. This forum has been so much help with wiring, engine and tranny mount guidance, I plan on assembling a site detailing every stage of my construction. I stole many an idea from the various photos that I found but also found that there was rarely enough detail in the photos, I hope to rectify that. I'd like to thank Stony, Sean Morris, Eric Hsu, and the countless others that contribute to these forums, it all makes this transplant less painful!

I changed the springs and retainers but stuck to the stock valves and seats. I've got HKS Step 2 camshafts #2202-RN133 Exhaust 280 Degree, Lift 10.8R32, which I'm afraid might be a little too radical, I'll find out when I start it up! My R32 RB26 HKS GTRS turbos JUN Oil Pump CP 86mm forged pistons Eagle rods Crankshaft nose oil pump extension ATI Super Damper Balancers #917752 with alt pulley Cosworth Head Gasket 87mm x 1.8mm Exedy Twin Plate Clutch (push) - NM032SD Nissan BNR32 RB26DETT Early 8/89- 2/93 Tomei Oil Restricter Supertech Valve Springs & Retainers N1 Water Pump HKS fuel rail-1407-RN003 GTR 11.0mm ACL rod /main bearings Camshaft pulleys

I've installed the Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers in my RB26 but it's still months away from starting for the first time. They're priced right and seem to have a good product.

What kind of a dash is that? I'm looking to redo my dash because the cap I glued on doesn't allow the gauges to come out the front and yesterday I cut the cap up to pull the gauges and then pulled the whole damn dash out. Of course I had to pull the cage out of the car to pull the dash! I'd like to put a different gauge cluster in that will hold the seven gauges I need and allow me to pull them out of the front of the dash. So what did you do, how and what's the donor car?

I took the electronic and mechanical 33 GT-S electronic/RB26 awd mechanical senders apart hoping that I could swap the gear and axle. I've got a very nice R32 mechanical Nismo 320kph speedo I'd love to put in my 240z but alas the axles aren't interchangeable and the gears are opposite. My question is, has anyone managed to put a mechanical sender in an R33 GT-S 5 speed tranny and how? I can install an Autometer electronic speedo but before I do I want to ascertain that I can't use my mechanical Nismo speedo. If I did manage to put a mechanical sender in the R33, is it going to spin the gear in the right direction for the speedo? Probably a stupid question, can someone smarter than me enlighten?

I searched the threads and read Chris's wiring thread through but couldn't find a reference to anyone installing and wiring a Skyline gauge cluster into a 240z. I could build a cap for the gauge cluster and replace the stock speedo/tach pods. Has anyone tried and how tough was it to wire? This cluster came with my motor and I like the aftermarket high speed speedo and higher redline tach but they can't be separated, they use a flexible circuit board. I may have to replace the stock gauges in the dash with aftermarket, but an interesting aside. I put a dash cap in my car and then put the roll cage back in. To change the gauges I'll have to take the cage out again because the dash cap gauge surround is smaller than the gauges and doesn't allow them to come out the front! Damn.

I'm getting really wild prices for the HKS F-CON V Pro GOLD Ver. 3.24 Type B with harness/boost control. My local shop says "The complete VPro setup will run you about 4600 plus install time of about 11 hours. The EVC boost contol runs around 680 cnd, plus install." roughly $6400. A US supplier says "the FCON with harness, knock amp, and all sensors and harnesses you will need, is $3290" plus installation. Are these prices appropriate? The Haltech E11v2 was mentioned in another posting. Who's had experience with it and what options are worth buying?

I just ordered the high hp ATI from Summit Racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATI%2D917752&N=700+115&autoview=sku for $489 plus shipping ( which has got to be cheaper than Australia to Canada) plus it comes with the larger water pump pulley. Almost have all my parts together, motor is being built and the fuel cell/surge tank is almost complete.

I'm seriously thinking about buying this ECU, what accessories should I also pick up. I found a tuner locally.

I'm looking for a good quality lift or transfer in-tank fuel pump to feed a surge tank. I've installed a fuel cell in my 240z with an RB26 with 11.80/10.8mm cams/HKS GTRS turbos and 100cc injectors etc. I want the fuel pumps in the fuel cell and surge tank to be in-tank to both keep the pumps quiet and cool. I'm planning on using a Denso fuel pump 195130-1020 from the 1993 Toyota Supra Turbo in the surge tank, it gets good reviews on this site. So my question to those experienced in this modification is; what in-tank lift or transfer low pressure/high volume fuel pump do you recommend to feed the surge tank? Secondly, is the Denso fuel pump 195130-1020 from the 1993 Toyota Supra Turbo when installed in the surge tank going to be enough to pump the fuel to the motor? If not should I contemplate putting two of them in the surge tank? I'm amazed how much of a pain in the butt it's been cutting out the back of the car and building the framework for the fuel cell and surge tank..... and trying to keep it very clean because it's my street toy.

Enclosed are a few photos of my transmission mount. I cut the transmission tunnel ears off and built from scratch. I modified the mount to allow a 3" exhaust above the mount, added extra bracing and drilled holes to "add lightness" before painting and after the shot with the mount in the car.

Your car looks great. I can't seem to find a site for the intercooler when I search ChinaBay. Any ideas where I can find it? I'm 75% complete in my fuel cell installation. I'm building a drop in frame and metal box that will house the fuel cell and surge tank, both will have in tank pumps. I'll post pictures soon.

Stony, I've followed the construction of your first and now this latest Z and all of your photos have helped me along the way. What brand and part number of intercooler are you using in this car? I think that you made your last one from scratch? You're in Alaska? Can't be a lot of tuners up there so what ECU are you using? Injectors?

Thanks for all of the help, I ordered the Griffin this morning. I want to thank everyone that contributes to this and other sites. It's made designing and building this car so much easier. I'll keep this site up to speed as my car starts to come together.

Has anyone found an aluminum radiator that'll fit in a 240z with right hand inlet and outlet to an RB26? The radiator opening is only 23.5"w x 12.5"h so an 18"h radiator is all that'll fit above the frame rails and RH radiators are rare it seems. It's going to be fairly busy under the hood and I'd rather not have to run one of the hoses to the left side. If you've found one, what was the application?

I finally finished my rear sump aluminum oil pan and steel baffle with one hinged plate. The oil pan holds about 7.5 litres at the stock dipstick level and the baffles should be able to contain an adequate supply of oil around the pickup. It's not beautiful, my first attempt to weld aluminum. I used the base for the stock oil pan as well as the oil drain plug.

What brand of dump pipes has anyone been happy with? I understand that almost all aftermarket exhaust manifolds crack so I'm using the stock manifolds and porting them to match my HKS GTRS turbos. But the stock cast dump pipes are really restrictive. Who's happy with what they've got? I'm putting my RB26 in a 1972 Datsun 240z and there's not a lot of room for a duel exhaust so I'll have to run a single and even modify my 5 speed tanny mount to run the pipe over the mount instead of under it. What size of pipe have 240z RB26 owners been able to put under there?

That's a project! Years ago I decided that I wanted to stiffen my street car so I sort of did the same thing only I didn't have any rust to contend with. I cut the bottom off of the rails and inserted 1/4" wall 2.5" square tubing and brazed it in place. I continued under the car with 1x2" rectangular tubing back to the diff and connected it to the roll cage. I added extra metal to the strut towers and added braces down to the frame rails. Three wheels come up in the air when I jack one up and it handles like a slot car! I couldn't get any more power out of my 3.1 litre stroker so I sold the whole drivetain and am just assembling and mounting a built RB26 with all of the toys. I think that all of the stiffening I added years ago will help tame the motor. Keep up the good work and think about continuing the frame rails all the way to the back.