twoeightyzx

Vert88, Were you able to use the rear S13 coilovers with the Z31 hubs? Secondly, you mention using a 1 inch spacer to fill the fender to wheel gap. I assume this is from using the Z31 hub on the S130 a-arm rather than the whole Z31 a-arm, cv axle, and brake assembly. Is this correct? Lastly, how did you compensate for the lower ball joint angle on the S13 front hubs?

23zed: Great looking car! I'd like to know more about the C6 brakes and rear diffuser.

Out of curiosity, would you consider making more of the rear brake brackets to sell in the future?

You know you own a Datsun when you avoid using your hazards because your blinkers will stop working.

How she looked when I bought her: Wheels: Enkei 92 14x6 +8 offset Tires: BFGoodrich Radial T/A 215/60/14 Other: 3" header back exhaust tubing with Apexi muffler How she looks as of today: Wheels: XXR 002 16x8 0 offset Tires: Falken RT615 225/50/16 (rolled inner lip on rear) Suspension: Tokico HP struts, Addco 1" front 7/8" rear swaybars, poly bushings Other: Koyo aluminum radiator, MSA FG bumper, ZCC 240z conversion brackets and tow brackets

Could the same steps to swap an L28ET AFM to the Z31 MAF be used for an L28E? The changes to the swap include the use of a Z31 N/A computer and MAF on an L28E rather than the turbo setup.

Your car looks absolutly amazing. I also think the overbars on the bumpers make them look even better.

I too ordered a central locking system. Haven't even received it and I'm thinking about not installing it. Had to replace a door handle thanks to a worn key cylinder, not a fun task. It will probably get done once I find the rubber wire prtectors for the door to the body. Then again I still drive my car in Texas heat with no a/c.

I first became interested in Datsun Z's at the age of 18. I was visiting an uncle of mine who had a Z31 2+2 in their garage. They were wanting to get rid of it as my cousin never parked long enough to change the injectors and it had an engine fire. Unfortunatly I did not have the time or money to fix it and get it running. He later took me to storage where an S30 that my cousin had also used during h.s. was. Only this one had been in an accident and the driver side wheel was shifted back 6 inches. At the age of 20 I started college having taken a little over a year off of school. Having been on the look out for an early Z I was elated when my parents told me of one not far from home. Two weeks later I was the owner of a '79 ZX. I knew it wasn't fast but it had a nice ride and I felt it handled well. I soon regreted not taking a better look as it had many problems. While at a local junkyard I asked about an old Z31 turbo. The guy I spoke to quickly informed me that the owner had an old Z he wanted to sell that had a good title. I saw it and instantly fell in love, '78 280Z. I knew all the spots to look for rust and altough there was some, it was not major to me. My sister laughed at me as I had previously bought a 240sx from a junkyard with its motor in the hatch and here I was with another non-running car. I changed the oil, spark plugs, coolant, and put a battery in. She fired up, small leak in one of the fuel lines, but running. Maybe not the best car to have at 23 as I'm still in school but if I have to drive, it might as well be in something I enjoy. No A/C in the Texas heat but thats what windows are for.

Not to thread highjack but I've seen a few people who have welded over these side vents for a cleaner lookand would eventually like to do the same. Will welding them closed cause a problem in later use?

Sorry for the delayed reply, life/school got in the way. My Z is running the stock fuel injection. Having read your response I remembered upping the IAc after changing the fuel pressure regulator. I did lower it again and today was the first day taking into town. So far no issues upon startup or driving. However it was 30-45 minutes of driving before it shut down on me previously.

Hey grumpyvette, I have a fuel related question that I'm hoping you will be able to help me with. I did a bit of searching on here and have yet to find any posts that may help me. My '78 Z will start stumbling (sounds like small backfires) at random times. The worst of them being last night. I was doing 70 mph on the highway when it started to stumble. I slowly pressed the accelerator and the stumbling subsided. As I let off the accelerator to slow back down from roughly 74mph it started to stumble again. This time pressing the accelerator only caused it to stumble more and I was forced to pull over as it would not accelerate and once I stopped the car died. When I tried to start her back up it flooded the engine. After disconnecting the Fuel Pressure Regulator the Z fired up on the second crank of the ignition. I was able to drive home this way. Once before the car started to stumble upon starting, it was during this when I learned that pulling the vacume line off the Fuel Pressure Regulator would make the engine run correctly. Things that I have replaced while tracking the cause of this problem: New Fuel Pressure Regulator: changed prior to last night. New Fuel Filter: located on the inner fender. New Pre Fuel Pump Filter: between the tank and fuel pump. Any and all help you and/or anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Zmaster, what kind of stumbling problem were you having? I ask because I was just doing a search and your recent post came up. Currently my '78 is stumbling on occasion. It started when it the fuel level was a half and has progressed to stumbling with a full tank. I have recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Another thing I've noticed is if it starts to stumble pressing on the accelerator will cause the motor to almost die. I do have a new pump to replace it I just want to see if our problems are/were the same prior to installing it.

Looks great, makes me wish I still had my S130.

Just did more investigating and found that unplugging the connection to the passanger headlight leaves the driver side light on. Unplugging the driver side connection turns them both off. I forgot to mention earlier that when I pull the lever for the high beams the driver side goes to high but the blue indicator doesn't come on.

A while back I posted that I had an issue with my passanger high beam being out and my low beam was dim. The general outcome was a weak ground, however, I reconnected the previous owners additional ground and still no change. I recently hooked up a test light into the sockets and found there was no power running though the high beam wire. Any suggestions on the fix. I'm trying to avoid cutting the wire loom and but if nothing else I've thought about cutting and splicing into the driver headlight wiring.

I saw a guy use all metal filler (unsure of brand). He said the only thing was to try and sand any excess before it was dry. Once dry its a PITA. I have no experience with it so I can't verify this to be true. He only used the stuff when he felt a hole was to big to bondo but not big enough to justify welding and shaping a new panel in place.

I was thinking along the same line as bmxmike. You could swapped the headlight buckets and trim the excess off the s130 hood. Then you would only need someone to weld the front of the hood back to seal it up. Buy the msa air dam you hyperlinked and fill the turnsignal holes in and relocate them in the newly acquired space under the hood. This should give you the look you want.

Alright I've spliced into the ground and the passanger beam seams a little brighter. Do the headlights not share the same ground to begin with? If they do, why would one be brighter than the other?

I just plugged them in and by looking at the driver side in the picture they are great. I put a set on the '79 that is in my sig as well. They are not blinding to oncoming traffic or in the rearview mirror.

Thanks guy's, the connector is in great shape and I'll double check all the grounds and make sure they are good. Secondly, the previous owner had a wire spliced into the old harness section that went to the low beam wire and was grounded to the inner wheel well. Any idea why they would have done that?

Shortly after buying my car I installed Silverstar sealed beams. They worked great when I first installed them. Roughly a month later my friend told me one was going dim. After looking at the harness I found where it had once been spliced for some reason between the headlight and the main harness. Having found a replacement section I thought I was golden until I flipped the lights on. I have found that with some movement the light will become brighter but as you will see in the picture there is no comparison to the driver side light. Also, when I flip the brights on the bulb goes out completely and the high beam indicator in the speedo does not come on. Thanks in advance for any help. http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=01140020yp2.jpg

I was reading though the LT1/Forrester rack sticky thinking that I may eventually want power steering. Since I have the L6 power steering would be more of a luxury than if I had the V8 and larger tires. I do recall a thread where an Audi electric power steering pump was suggested for someone running 285s. Well a friend of mine and I were discussing it and found that mazda rx8s and mazda3s also have an electric pump. I know all things are possible given time and money but would this be more tangable than a $4000 Audi pump? Secondly, could an electric pump work with the Forrester rack?

After I bought my s130 I drove it about 3x a week. Rebuilt the BMC and drove it nearly everyday this summer. Seems the rebuild didn't hold and she's burning brake fluid again. Oh well, tomorrow I pick up a '78 s30 and once its running will hopefully be my DD.

I have the same question as jeffer949. I'm looking at the MSA replacements for my 280zx but its only my passenger side thats rusted and needs replacing. I'll try and remember to upload pics of it later.