Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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HP will lighten the front and take the load off that point. I would be more worried (if I were the worrying type) and it was a lower HP track car with sticky tires and good brakes. If it were mine I would use it.
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I If a Chevy rocker ratio is something like 1.4, and a L-motor is 1.5, then that is a substantial amount. I am going to talk to Mike at Delta and see what's goin on
What does your cam card say the ratio is? Did you just get that cam for $50? I think I paid around $70 0r $75. It was supposed to be $65. I guess it depends on when you call:?
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My oil pressure sender also has 1/8" BSPT.
My turbo has an 1/8" BSPT thread, that's what the separate adapter in my drawing is.
You can screw a BSP male thread into a female NPT, just not the other way around. So you could tap your block NPT and use a NPT tee and the bsp gauge and oil feed would still screw in. If you tap the block I would start the engine for a second to get the chips out.
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I have Arizona Z car's heavy duty springs.. could I cut a coil or two off in the rear to lower the car *safely*?
I ran cut azc springs for years before going with c/o's.
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On my street car I run a 8's 250 f, 280 r. The fronts do stack on hard bumps and I will be swapping them to 10's. I run 8's in the rear for tire clearance. I haven't stack the rear yet.
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VQ35 with 6spd 300 hp stock, very light. Around $1000 if you look around.
VH45 with Z32 5spd 300 hp with more torque, around $1000 with adapter
You can build either of the above motors with forged parts and boost it for what a smaller stock RB or SR will cost or just run a few lbs on a stock engine.
LS1 350+ hp. Price, I don't know but much less than what you have listed.
If you go with a SR20, it will be a 2 liter dog off boost. I could care less what people think of what engine I have under the hood, that should be the last reason to pick one. Pick based on price, displacement, weight, power. If you looked at each engine without being biased I think RB's and SR's would not be on the list.
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I think there's quite a bit of lateral force on a tire/bead at auto X. The lateral force would pull a bead if anything but I don't know if running a wider tire increases that chance.
I would agree that running a tire within the recomended width gives the best contact patch though.
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Sounds like you haven't tracked it yet and by now if you haven't yet, you may not in the future. Be realistic in what you want long term. I would run stock length struts to save another buck. I would also do eccentric rear LCA bushings over a fabbed LCA for a street car ( I did). Allot cheaper and you can adjust toe. You can run them in the front too but you are limited on caster.
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Just comparing tire width to min. wheel width. I'm sure there are other classes with wheel width limits that people run wider than the recomended width tire and it works and is faster. Not comparing RX8's to S30's.
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Running a 285/30-18 tire on a 8" wheel is poplular on RX8's in autoX(can't remember the class). It's 2" under what the recomended width is. It works and is fast even though it is not recomended. GRM even did a test with that size. His 315 squeeze is only 1" under the recomended width.
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That viedo made my buthole pucker, traffic?
Me too. I'm all for going fast, even on the street but you don't know what other people will do. Not everyone changing lanes is expecting a car behind with a 120+mph aproach.
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I was currious on what the rwhp was too and the dyno brand as people add different losses to get the crank hp. I'm glad it was Bryan that asked
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I had a 275 tire, 10" wide wheel in the rear and no rub. I never checked to see how much more room there was inboard, I assume a bit more. It never rubbed on the outboard side. This was my wifes car. If it was mine I would see if a 315 would work.
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I could but then the spare would be a risky to run. I have a month to find a steel one or try the aluminum fork with a solid pin.
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No T5 here. I've heard they aren't much better than the Nissan boxes. I have a pre 79' trans and ran it forever without any problems, other than breaking 5th once. This year I went with the later box for the taller 2nd ,3rd, and 5th gear. I could rob a fork out of it but then I wouldn't have a spare trans.
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Eventually went with 4m solid bolt stock. End of problem.
Time spent shifting is time wasted....
I'm getting a box of 81+ trans parts tomarrow, has aluminum forks though. When you went with the 4mm solid rod, was that with aluminum forks or steel? I can keep looking for a 4spd box for steel forks.
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. Later Dennis Hale suggested that the problem can be solved by safety wiring the stock pin, as I guess the theory is that problem usually happens when the pin vibrates halfway out of the shift fork, then shears. I suppose you might see part of the pin hanging out the bottom of the rail if this were the case.
It is sticking out some but not much. I shift quick but not with alot of force. I use atleast twice the force when going through the gears on the on the R154 Toy trans but they use a large bolt. If it is the roll pin breaking that causes the fork to break it's an easy fix. If it's the fork breaking first then the pin, it's not so easy.
I just talked to a friend that was a Nissan tech for years. He said he's seen a few aluminum ones break along with the roll pins. He said they changed the design of the roll pin too. He had a box of trans parts he's also going to look for. Until now I have run the early boxes with the steel forks and never broke anything. If I can get a steel fork in there I think my problems will be solved.
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This is the second one I've broke. The roll pin just breaks off on the top. It is still in the shaft and bottom of the fork. It didn't shear off clean. It was in two pieces but that may be from getting caught in a gear. I don't know if it is a roll pin problem or fork problem. I might drill it out and use a shoulder bolt. Has anyone else sheared a roll pin and/or broke a shift fork?
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I bought a syncro kit from them.
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An optional 36-1 wheel would be great for alot of people.
Chris, do the single groove dampers use rubber or spring for damping? Bryan and I have a little debate going.
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Clifton, that's pushing the injectors much too far in my opinion, just asking for a blown motor.
AFR's were always good and it was just at the rev limiter, lower revs, lower DC. Did it for a few years and ALOT of others do it too, they just don't know it as they never check the duty cycle. On a 7M running more than 12 psi it's the same as mine was. If it was that bad I don't think a factory ecu would let it happen. I ran my 550's at 114% with MSII until I went with 700's. I think alot of the "don't go past 80%" is extreme precaution. If it was as bad as most people claim. I would have had an injector related engine failure long ago witht he boost I run.
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Check your timing. You should know what it was before, if not it should match what the SDS prgrammer says. If it doesn't, it moved. I have had them move before, Both times itwas more than just a slip. You should be getting better than 21-24 though. I got around 27 on my last highway trip running 75+ on a decent tune. What's your cruise timing at?
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Blue top DSM injectors are the same size and you don't need to swap connectors. IMO 440's are still too small unless you are keeping the stock turbo and low boost.
I'm with Quin. 20 psi on a stock turbo 20 psi isn't the same as a GT40 or similar sized turbo. For what it's worth. The factory 7mgte ecu ran mine to 96% duty cycle at the rev limiter. That was with an FCD and going past what the stock fuel cut would have been at (12psi). Many people with 7M's have no problem getting 400rwhp with 440's.
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It has been a while since I read it ( 4 yrs ? )but I remember someone using, I think a Maxima 4spd auto and someone using a Mitsu or Isuzu 4spd auto, just different bellhousing. They were older 4spds, not ecu controlled.
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Jeep 4.0 swap?
in Other Engines
Posted
I'll speak my mind too then. Saying any Honda is junk when you drive this, come on.
Don't be prejudice towards Honda. Technology, reliability, economy, pretty good HP/liter, what is junk about that?
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