Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I don't know how much boost you want to run but stock I had about 10 psi with the same turbo. I tightened up the rod on the WG and ended up with 17 psi.
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A large wheel cannot handle the speeds a smaller wheel can and doesn't run at the same speeds. Kinda like diesel motors.
If you compare a T3 60 trim (stock 280ZX turbo) and a T4 with a 62-1 compressor wheel. They will both make 300 hp. The T3 wheel is about at the end of the map and the efficiency is lower, making more heat, requiring more boost to make the same power. The T3 turbine wheel is also alot smaller than a T4 wheel or upgraded T3 wheel. While it will spool faster it will not flow nearly as much or have the torque to turn a large compressor wheel. If run with a large compressor wheel it will have more backpressure to make the same boost. You have to compare both the compressor and turbine side. Yes some on this board run T3/4's with stock turbine wheels. They also don't make the power they could be making.
Hopefully these come up. 16 psi intercooled is about a 2.2 PR. Close to the safe limit on pump gas. It is enough to make 350 rwhp/400hp+ crank (yes not everyone makes that but again most use a T3 turbine wheel). 10lbs/min is about 10 hp. You can see the T3 compressor is way off the map. It is living on barrowed time. The other 2 are still good. If you wanted to run more octane and 23 psi the T4 E60 would be to small too. The 62-1 would work though.
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Update on suspect RC inj; engine had cracked head #4 cyl leaking coolant which caused rings to loose temper necessitating engine rebuild. Now in break-in period with boost limited to 10 psi. Undecided on EFI ECU choice. Recommendations, experiences?
I have looked into Microtech. A few guys on here run it. I know it can use stock sensors. AEM is also nice. and has alot of features. Most MKIV run that.
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As Pyro said. You will need to stop the mechanical advance or you will for sure have knock. I wired up the weights on one along time ago. Worked fine. You couls also use an MSD universal boost retard. They are around $170. I run one on my truck. Works better than locking out the mech advance but isn't free like a foot of wire.
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Actually that's the adapter I made for s/cL3.0 on this board. He hasn't got it running yet. He just ordered SDS.
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but if I'm not mistaken if you had two cars making 350hp and one had a smaller turbo and the other a larger one. Wouldn't the car with the larger turbo take longer to build boost?
Yes the bigger turbo would have more lag and take longer to build boost. The smaller turbo would require more boost to make 350hp than the larger turbo. If the boost were equal the larger turbo would make more power.
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ohh for the bottom end would I be safe getting away with some Eagle SIR A beam rods or regardless should i just go to the H beam esp rods?? .
Are the stock rods that weak? I know VQ35 rods seem to give up over the 500 rwhp range.
Using forged parts is great but most turbo engine failures are from detonation (Pistons breaking and head gaskets blowing). You can run 8 psi and 35* timing and break your forged piston from knock, were a cast piston will live at 20 psi and 20* timing without knock. Boost isn't the limiter, knock is.
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8.4:1 CR and 12 psi is totally safe regardless of piston type, unless you aren't pulling timing under boost.
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here's my problem..
with the stock L28 HANDLE 18psi very well??!
I have MSnS so I have good fuel management and timing.. BUT.. can the motor handle it?!
I am afraid of turning up the boost to even 14psi.. hell the headgasket could blow or pistons could go right through the block>?!
I did 22 psi on a stock junkyard block. Not stock turbo. Would of done moe if I was looking for big numbers. Boost isn't the limiting factor, detonation is. Bppst can lead to det just as too much timing can though. You can run C16 and 30 psi with stock pistons and it would be safer than 20 psi on 91 octane.
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IMO manual boost controllers with internal WG's just doesn't work good unless you are adding only a few psi. I have always used a stiff helper spring. Attach it to a threaded rod and make it adjustable and loose the MBC. Your boost will never spike or drop off at higer rpms again.
High 12's low 13's is way rich for cruise. FP is low too.
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A lower offset would have looked better tho IMO *would look more dished*.
Have a few questions:
What parts did you use for the 5lug swap? Is it possible to drill out the front hubs and put in new studs? I did this to my 240sx.
What suspension are you running? Im interested in how the camber adjustment plates are set up' date=' Do you just slot the stock mount or are thier actually plates welded on?
Have you considered running some front/rear spoiler set up? Would look alot more agressive and help stablity with all that hp your packing.. =D[/quote']
A lower offset won't fit with that width on an S30. I do like the dish look more though.
I have the AZC 5 lug brakes/ aluminum hubs. It is not possible to redrill the S30 fronts. You can the rears though. You can use Z31 5 lug hubs on the front too.
Coilovers (250f/280r), Koni insert. Front are weld in plates. See second pic down. Rears aren't in yet but they will not be weld in. 2fiddyZ is making them, he could explain how they work better. I have eccentric LCA bushings until then.
I have an air dam on my 71'. I like the looks of stock Z's and wanted to keep it as stock looking as I could plus airdams and curbs don't get along. It's stable though. Been to 150 a few times, doesn't feel any different than 70 or 110. I think allignment has a big part in stabilty. People lower there Z's, It toes out a little and then wanders.
do you have any close up pictures of the mirrors?
No. They are Spa mirrors though.
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Yes, 25mm/1 inch. You could go 30-32mm/1.250" in the front. I eneded up lenthgening my LCA's 10mm and I still don't rub. There is less clearance in the rear. I wouldn't go more than 25mm there. You will need adapters not spacers. They run about $200. That's why I wouldn't do it. You could convert with J/Y parts to 5 lug and run 9's in the rear. Sell your old Toy brakes and not be in the hole too much. AIM has adapters pretty cheap and different thicknesses too.
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This is what happens when people type when high
. Are you starting an F1 team? Are you Howard Hughes? There are plenty of good motors that make alot of power and are proven. There is no need to waste time and money doing whats been done. Let GM, Nissan, and Toyota do the R&D. AFR has aftermarket heads for the LS6 that will outflow a Northstar head at a fraction of the cost of casting your own aluminum block. to use with there head. As for making a one of complete motor. Even if the block gets made you still have to make heads and hope they flow. What about a crank? What stroke?I shouldn't take posts so seriously.
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I don't know how much is too much but one of my fronts is out .004" and the other .025". I need to have them re-trurned as the aren't straight, ones out .005" and will have them cut the O.D on the one that is .025".
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Awesome z. My favorite color, and one of my favorite wheels... How did you mount the sideview mirrors by the way?
I notched the squeege moulding to slide over the mirror arm and then used that to locate the hole I drilled in the door pinch seam. It is double wall there and pretty firm. I had to bend it a little though as the mirrors aren't adujstable in that direction. I used a socke head screw and cut down a hex key so I can adjust them with the panels on if they ever get bumped hard.
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clifton what offset are those? and does daves brakes change the offset along with lug pattern?
My fronts are 17x8 with a 22mm offset. Daves 5 lug front hubs push the mounting surface out .500" too. The 4 lug kit doesn't. I run the 5 lug. There is no way a 35mm offset will work on a stock hub. Even a 22mm would need to be spaced a little if on a stock Z hub. You would need a 1" spacer to get them to sit were mine do in the fender if using an S30 hub. I would pass on them.
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I agree with the softer tires. You will reduce 60-0 stopping distances more from that. Big brakes won't be a benifit on the street stopping at 50-60 mph for a red light. A few hard stops from 120 - 40 mph is different.
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what size nittos are those???
trying to get the idea of what my 325-50-15 nitto drags will look like on my car..
mike
275-40-17. Wow, 325's are huge. Are you flared?
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Looks like a nice place/compound. Ya, August humdity is brutal with swamp and 110*.
A few more in better light
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Looks Great, Nice Job. You must have an air conditioned garage to do that work in the summer in Arizona. I haven't touched my Z project all summer, after 10 minutes I am sweating like a pig, no enjoyment working on it.
Ya I did that with the 7M swap in August. It was like an oven. I put a 6500 cfm Mastercool on the garage roof. right before I started it. Not a/c but better than nothing. It also gets the fumes out pretty quick when I sprayed.
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Even Garrett says it's too small. "2.0-2.7l". It does flow a little more than the stock T3 though. I would get the GT35R.
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Beautiful. Are those FN01RCs?
Yes. 17x8 and 17x9's
what color is that? from what car?Sterling gray metalic # 472, BMW 750/760
Thanks for all the compliments guys.
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I started it in late May and finished it last Sunday, working on it EVERY day. I rebuilt the bottom end and then went to work on the body. I changed every removable part. Doors (71), hood, hatch, headlight buckets, gas door, cowl, ect. I removed the sidemarkers, antenna and welded the fenders to the buckets. I sandblasted the rust in the engine compartment replaced part of the rusty rocker panel. The bumpers are stock steel ones I welded up (including the rear) and had powder coated along with all the trim.
Before
Camber plate
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Harbor Freight sells a variable speed polisher that works great with those 3M foam pads. It comes with the velcro pad too. I think I paid $39 but have seen them on sale for $29.
. Are you starting an F1 team? Are you Howard Hughes? There are plenty of good motors that make alot of power and are proven. There is no need to waste time and money doing whats been done. Let GM, Nissan, and Toyota do the R&D. AFR has aftermarket heads for the LS6 that will outflow a Northstar head at a fraction of the cost of casting your own aluminum block. to use with there head. As for making a one of complete motor. Even if the block gets made you still have to make heads and hope they flow. What about a crank? What stroke?
Theory question: Larger turbo = more reliability?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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