Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I'm with the get something bigger. My first bike was a CB400 and soon after got a ZX6, then CBR600. 600cc's is as small as I'd go.
You might get run down by a pocket bike on that backyard toy. 150cc's isn't enough for the size of that. You'll have buyers remorse the first day. The idea of a motor swap is even crazier than buying the bike to begin with.
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Are you running a turbo intake with the pop off valve? Could of had a hose split.
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I saw the topic and though it was something else:biggrin:
As for mounting, the turbo that is. It's just packaging. As long as the oil outlet is higher than the oil level in the pan there won't be a back up of oil in the turbo.
Curious. Don't those already have a pretty long stroke? How much more displacement do you gain for the $$? Why not just add 2 psi more?
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On my 71' I bolted it straight to the core support. On my 73' I got some rubber washers from Ace hardware and put the between the radiator and support. A piece of foam weather stripping is a good idea at the top of the radiator to fill the gap between it and the core support.
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Did you try tightening two nuts together on the stud and turning the bottom nut to remove it? They shouldn't be to hard to remove. I have only broke them by over tightening them.
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Just before the turbo or in the turbo, just after the inlet flange is the best. I would just run a wideband though.
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How bad does a welded diff affect turning?
I drove my truck welded on the street for about 15k miles. Rear tire wear is greatly increased. You'll notice it most in parking lots, just from the scrub and a little bucking at times. Faster than 15 mph on the street driving like most people doyou won't be able to tell. For me it wasn't worth the $$ as big tires are expensive, A locker was less than a pair of tires.
On a track car it will induce alot of understeer in slower corners. It kills me in slow turns. The faster the turn the less push. If you have alot of power it is better than an open diff for getting power down on corner exit, reason why I did it. A low HP car wouldn't see the same benifit. On a street car I would only do it if you run cheap tires and don't have the $$ for a LSD.
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Welding works for awhile but eventually fails, the cast doesn't weld that well and breaks, the gears don't fare well when all this gets into them.
Welding does not fail if done properly. I have welded atleast 6 diffs for rockcrawler friends, including mine. The drivetrain in them sees more torque than any car street car due to gearing. Never had a problem. My Z's diff has been welded for about 10 years also. All were mig'd.
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Ok I guess I'm wrong. So on a 10 qt pan running it 3 qts low makes more power. But on a car with a stock pan that will see a turn with some load(pulling off the 1/4 doesn't count) I wouldn't do it.
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When adding N20 you add extra fuel with it so the factory efi wouldn't matter there. I know mileage doesn't matter as you don't let them knock. I had 190k on my 7M.
The guy with 765 crank at 18 psi sounds about right. There are alot of turboed / SC 4.6 Fords making about that and more with similar displacement. I know the 1uzfe is popular with Toy guys and there are a few making around 2000hp(not stock). Stock they are only 260 hp. The stroke is the same, just a little smaller bore. Most of the street turboed ones run copper HG's to drop the CR. That might be an option but I would rather run lower CR pistons.
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I haven't seen anyone making big power out of them other than some guy running methanol in Oz. Without raising the CR alot or shortening the stroke to get alot more revs. If you have links please post them. I have been doing alot of searching.
600 rwhp on pump would keep me happy for a while. Shouldn't be a problem with 20-22 psi with a T72. And with high octane, 28 psi. Basically the boost I run on the 7M. I want a little more grunt off boost and a broader power band that only more displacement will give, 50% more and another 1000 rpms
. I know that 2JZ guys max out the afm voltage around 550 rwhp. I don't know what it would be on the VH considering it was never a turbo but I don't want to spend alot of time learning and tunning one system to find it won't have the ability to read the volume of air needed for 600 rwhp. -
My Cox one was over too?
It must be big. Try this one. SRAGLAND@US.IBM.COMI am 95% sure I will go with standalone though. I don't know if I will be able to run the boost I want with the afm or larger injectors without the hassle of reprograming everything.
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I'm running the stock feed and vent line for the return. 530 rwhp and no problems with fuel pressure dropping.
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I would just leave it and use the one bolt. The injectors are all connected to the rail. You could be missing half of the bolts and it wouldn't go anywere.
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Sprung hubs are only to minimize driveline shock during shifts. Does nothing for easing engaugement. The marcel is what makes a clutch easier to slip and aid engaugement.
I have got a few clutches from Clutchspecialties also 7M and L28. I was running a 6 puck with a stock PP on the 7M. 4 puck on the L28. A puck disk with a stock PP will give alot more torque holding capability for not alot of money. If you are about at the limit and you go through the gears a few times and put soem heat into it it will slip.
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It wouldn't take too much to cut and flip a pan around and extend the pick up.
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Yes. I don't know the limit how to change it. Try this one. sragland1@cox.net
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But we are agreed it does free up so hp. So do it at your own risk.
No, but running a lighter weight oil will. 10-30 comparred to 20-50. Running low will just risk wiping out your rods and mains. I guess the added clearance from wiped bearings would loosen the motor up some and drop the pressure, that might get you 1 or 2 hp though.
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VH45 508 lbs.
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Ask 1 fast Z about running the cones. He wasted his short block at MSA. I don'tr think he was running low, just a long corner. Run a lighter oil, it's safer.
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I wrote some software to tune the Q45 using a romulator.
If you're interested' date=' I'll mail you it.[/quote']
Sure. I would appreciate it. I have never tuned with one or know how yet as I just got this. Is it hard to do?
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obviously you've never really explored the rb20's limits.... it is a very good motor choice.
Not when compared to a newer 4 valve 3L, especially in a 3500 lbs car. Wait B16's make good power and are light too, maybe that would work, they rev. Is it better than an L20B, yes but the RB20 is dated and makes less power than an SR20 with alot more weight.
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I bought a lightly crashed Q45 yesterday and a T72 last week so I have been searching more now. I should do this next summer.
Lost/Slims vh45 Z32 uses the stock Q EFI. I assume he is using an emulator and reprogramed the ECU. This would cheaper than AEM for me. Don't know if you have the stock EFI. Here's a few links.
. I know that 2JZ guys max out the afm voltage around 550 rwhp. I don't know what it would be on the VH considering it was never a turbo but I don't want to spend alot of time learning and tunning one system to find it won't have the ability to read the volume of air needed for 600 rwhp.
It must be big. Try this one.
Top Mounted vs. Bottom Mounted?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Deto will be the limiting factor on boost. Not forged or cast. 400cc's is a good increase.
I didn't think it was car related.