Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I've welded (mig) all over my L manifold including a T4 flange. Never preheated and never had a problem.
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I got all mine on Ebay. Someone did have 2.75" hose on there at one time. That's what I used from the intercooler to TB.
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No' date=' retarded cam = higher end power.
Clifton, did you have trouble with the timing chain when you did that? How long did you run it after you did that? Because I've seen a few L engines chew the crap out of the slack side guide because of the chain tensioner being too loose when the head was shaved and the cam towers not shimmed. You're introducing .140" slack in the chain that way. Too much IME to be ignored.[/quote']
It was a friends car. Don't know what happened with it long term. We adjusted the slack side rail over as far as it would go.
Don't know how anyone would know if it was an L28 or L20 from the outside. The stamp on the block can be easily changed. People ship JDM front cuts all the time. An old L28 can't be too much to ship.
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The extra 500 cc's, VVT, and COPs, and more hp/tq are a big plus on the vh45. You can buy bellhousings to mate the 1uz to the R154 trans. I don't know of anyone making adapters yet for the vh45.
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Another 800cc's (L28) would help your low end torque alot more.
I have cut .070" off a head and not shimmed it. It will retard your cam timing, favoring the top end but you can move the sprocket to get it back or just leave it. I don't think you will notice much from such a small increase though. I didn't when I went from a 1.4mm to a 3mm headgasket.
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280ZX and early 300ZX both use T3's with 60 trim compressor wheels. The later 87-89' Z31's used T25's.
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Install was easy, have to drill out the inner LCA mounts on the crossmember but the rack didn't interfere with getting the drill in there. Caster is real easy to change on the car. I think I need to put more in though as I took some out compared to my old set up. It steers alot easier in parking lots this way though. I had lenghted my old arms 10mm, that's why they are boxed. I lengthend these the same amount. The billet arm assemblies are .5 lbs lighter than the stock arms, not my welded art:lol:. I also shortened the front and rear struts and installed bump steer spacers to get the arms horizontal again. I used a pipe cutter on the fronts and recip saw/chop saw on the rears and welded them on the car. I beveled the cuts and butted the tubes together. I used 2 peices of 3/4" angle iron clamped to the tubes. Tacked it in 4 places and checked the strut insert in the tube before finishing the weld. Shortening them was easier than I thought it was going to be.
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Cheap parts are generally cheap for a reason, you get what you pay for.[/quote
I have to disagree. SSautochromes wastegates are cheap but I haven't had any problems yet in over 2 years. Tiawan labor is cheap, that doesn't mean the product isn't good though.
J. Soileau RB26zcar, Those turbo pics aren't of the same turbo.
spork, what turbine housing trim will fit? I know the bolts line up on the CC but it is not exactly a P-trim.
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1. It's not an IHI
2. It's some Chiawan POS that you'll never get parts for.
3. It's not a T70. It has a 60.5mm inducer, the T70 part is very misleading.
4. For a little more you can get a Garrett turbo.
5. The turbine trim is close to a P trim. Yes it will eventually reach full boost but with whatever a/r it comes with but if you want to change the hotside so it will come on sooner, say to a .58, you won't be able to.
6. Yes it has a T3 footprint, that shouldn't matter though as changing to a T4 flange on the stock manifold is not any harder than adding the external wastegate and fabbing the exhaust that will be needed.
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PS. how does everyone like the nitto 555 drag radials for the street? Is there any better buys out there or better tires??
I run 275-40-17 Nitto 555R's (DR's). AutoX with them too. Good tire but I'm going with Kumho V700's soon. I need something softer as I still have traction issues. I run Toyo RA1's on the front. Compound wise they are the same as the 555R's, according to the durometer, but come with more rubber, 8/32" vs 6/32". 555R's are cheaper though. I guess it depends on your power.
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I agree. If you run an 18" you can get a 9.5", but that's pushing it a 9" would be better. You will have to run an 8" spring and c/o's atleast in the rear to fit something that wide. Unless you flared it I would forget about the 10"s unless you are going to stretch the tire ricer style. As for it sticking, tires play a huge part in traction. The lower the treadwear, typically the better it will stick. A 43mm offset is about perfect for a 9" wheel with the AZC 5 lug rear.
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Water injection, although it does work, should not be needed at this low boost. He has another problem if he has knock at 8 psi in 30* weather. I can run 12 psi, no intercooler in 100* weather with my POS Z31 on 91 pump.
What c/r are you running? I would double check the timing by bringing the revs up and using a bike pump. Pump 10 psi to the map sensor and see where the timing goes. It will be pig rich so you'll probably need a second person to ad some throttle to keep the revs from dropping below to where you have all your off boost advance in. I had to do this on my truck when I turboed it to find out max timing under full load (flapper door AFM) at high RPM.
put it to ya like thisin a talon tsi i had a couple years back. i had water injection on it. 180k miles on original motor' date=' 24 psi on stock ported 14b, a ported manifold, hard pipe kit, k&n filter, modded mas air, 3 inch turbo back exhaust pulled a nice 108 mph. for less then 500 bucks in mods. now the 24 psi was on 110 octane. im a HUGE FAN of water injection. it gave me a chance to run silly amounts of timing {close to 30 degrees under full boost} at this boost level. i can go into more detail if need be. but this should give you a good idea on what water injection can do. if it can do that on a high mileage turbo motor, imagine what you could do on a fresh L series!
as far as your problem. stock efi systems compensate for cooler air, standalones do not. {at least the ones im used to messin with} so. with the Ms system, im not sure if you can do multiple maps, like for warm temps, medium temps, race gas, pump piss, cold, or something of that sort[/quote']
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If you are using a distributor, have you locked you mechanical advance? Unplugged the vac advance?
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What's you total timing at under boost?
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IMO you are F'd. Cops lie. I thought I had a chance fighting a ticket 3 years ago. Had my wife as a witness to the whole thing (it was more than just speeding, long story). I told my story. He made up one, a good one though. I asked to let my wife speak and the judge said no. Result was 2 days missed work, $140 fine and increased insurance rates all because he was an A hole. His day will come. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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I'm running 250 F / 280 R with Koni da's. Good ride on the street, even better on the highway and it works good autocrossing.
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If you have knock at 12.5:1, adding more fuel and bringing it down to say 12:1 may or may not stop the knock. Gas has a poor latent heat of evaporation, it doesn't cool very good. Even if it richiening it up does stop audible knock (doubtful) as you said seemed to help, you would still be on the edge of knock and may still have it but can't hear it. I would pull a few degrees of timing or drop the boost depending on what your timing is at full boost now.
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They would take up alot of room. The diameter is pretty big compared to a monoball.
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Off topics... BUT NICE Rims Clifton are those Ferrari Knock offs?
Thanks. They are 5Zigen's.
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Recurculating blow by back on a turbo car seems to make more of a mess, at least on all of mine. On my truck and Z, I vented to atmo and my oily messes went away. I had oil in front of the compressor and in the outlet also.
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I know Microtech has an ECU that will drive 8 coils (COP's). Most will only do 6. I'm just waiting for a trans adapter, someone?
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Only 8 psi, Nice. You do have alot more in it for sure. Can you post the dyno sheet so we can see the curve?
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IRS or solid axle?
IRS. The diffs are lighter, stronger and can be found for $100 with an LSD. Gears are also cheap.
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One of the big issues is that there are no SAE standards for chassis dyno setup' date=' operation, measurement, and correction. Without those standards there is no way to compare numbers generated from on chassis dyno to another or from one day's testing to another on the same chassis dyno.
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Dynojets have an SAE correction plus STD, DIN, and EEC. Comparing different brands can vary like Mustang vs Dynojet.
cheap intercoolers? worth the money?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I wouldn't believe there pressure drop figures though. 15 psi on a 1.6l would use alot less air and have less pressure drop than a 4.5l at 15 psi. I run a cheap Ebay intercooler.