Clifton
-
Posts
2303 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Clifton
-
-
You should move your Walbro back to where the stock pump was or use you stock pump as a feeder pump. They are better at pushing fuel than pulling. It may limit your volume pulling fuel that far.
-
I turboed my Toyota truck (V6). The pump on that had a shut off pressure of 50 psi. The volume was also lacking. As the revs went up under boost the pressure would drop, was running 12 psi at the time. I put a Walbro 155 l pump in . You're only at 5 psi though so I doubt that's your problem, you should check the pressure under load though. What are you using to control fuel under boost? Z32 turbo ecu?I run an aic with 2 extra injectors. Once I had the pressure switch loose a signal and I could not run over 2 psi without it falling on it's face.
-
Also' date=' the boost is controlled by an HKS EVC-IV - I don't think there is any problem with the wastegate spring.
[/quote']
A too soft spring cannot hold boost as revs go up if the boost is high regardless of the controller used. I've seen T64 dynos over 600 rwhp on a 2jz. I wouldn't think an L28 could max it out if a 3.0 4 valve motor at 27 psi didn't.
-
OK. I measured the pressure, pre intercooler(Ebay 12x24x4 thick). 30 psi. So I have a 4 psi pressure drop at around the 600 hp level. Seems high but without knowing what everyone else has it's hard to compare. Regardless, the P trim is running 5 psi higher than my compressor discharge. The O trim is 15 psi higher. I was checking only to see how my setup compares to others. It makes more power than I probably should have on the streets so power isn't an issue. I would love to know what the turbine pressure is on one of those GT35's. They spool pretty fast. I'll check the exhaust BP after the turbo next.
-
Well' date=' obviously its not my car, but the T64 shouldn't have run out of air. It can put out 65 lbs. per minute which still gives him some room. It sounds like there may be something going on elsewhere as that compressor isn't maxed out at 20-23psi. Whats being used to control boost? I saw he said he was using the 60mm hks wastegate, but is it just using the springs in the wastegate, or is it using a seperate controller? manual or electronic? I guess anything can happen, but that turbo should be able to put out more. Lastly, where is boost pressure being measured at? manifold, compressor housing, IC?
Anyways, not trying to get into any kind of arguement, but more curious as to why the turbo seems to be the issue?[/quote']
Ditto,. Sounds like the WG spring was too soft.
-
You can detonate on any octane of fuel. It will just take a little more boost and or timing but you are never safe. Is he running standalone? Is he controlling the VVT? Could be coming on too late. That kind of torque I would think he is running atleast 18- 20 psi. 30* is alot of timing.
-
I measured 38 psi on turbine side with 18 psi boost (380 RWHP) and then changed out Flowmaster for Dynomax (all 3") and achieved 410 hp at same boost. Exh BP went from 7 to 2.5 psi. L28E N42 with Turbonetics H3 and 0.69 A/R. Cannot find run data to determine change in turbine BP' date=' unfortunately.
I thought you divide boost psia by effy to calc turb BP, i.e. (21+14.7) / 0.7 = 51 psia = 36 psig.[/quote']
Thanks. This is what I was looking for.
-
My training said something on the order of between 3 to 5psi more than what you see in the inlet manifold. Having a multiple of boost seems like a VERY undersized turbine wheel...
A P trim wheel is pretty big.
Yes i fully agree Tony, as i said above, to start really expoiting a turbocharger and making good power, manifold back pressure of no more that boost pressure is desirable.I don't think it is possible though.
Come on, one of you guys tap an 1/8" thread into your manifold and run some copper line to a gauge. It's fun to test:mrgreen:
-
JDM 7M's will have the same HG problems as US motors. Regardless of what some say the mileage is not as low as they would like you to believe. If you are wanting to swap into a Z yoou would be better off buying a wrecked MKIII. You can get a whole car for less that you'll spend on just the motor. IAAI.com I've bought quite a few fars from them, cheap.
-
That's a good bit of difference btw O and P trims. There are different P trims circulating around so you might have better luck with something different. I've seen 3 different Ptrims from 12 blade, 11 blade and 11 blage gen III. The P trim also suppose to be taller for better windage to get the wheel to spin compare with an O trim with small exducer. I think the fine compromise btw the two is 10 blade stageV wheel. Or there are other GT turbine wheels out there like GT37 wheel which is like 10 bladed version of a P trim.
I've seen 3 different P trims too. I have the on that looks almost clipped but wasn't. T netics looks almost like a GT wheel and the other looks like mine just a little more blade on it ( not the clipped look). I don't know if any other P trim will spool any faster though. I've seen alot of dynos of 3.0 motors (7M and 2JZ) with P trim/.68's and none spooled any faster, basing that of how fast the motor reaches 400 ft lbs. I will keep the P trim turbo (T72) for the VH45 unless I find a .58 P trim housing to try for cheap.
-
Ya. I'm talking about the turbine side. I've also heard 2.0 and 1.8:1. I haven't measured my pressure before the intercooler which I need to to do be accurate. At 26 psi manifold I was had 35 psi with a P trim wheel and 45 psi with an O trim wheel. Both are with a .70 hot side a/r. The P trim adds about 700 rpms of lag. I am running the O trim for now. It's too much fun having a broad power band. It almost feels like a supercharged V8 the way it comes on now, atleast when comparred to the P trim.
-
That's a alot of power and a nice power band, all the way up to 7500 ish. What was your afr?
-
Has anyone measured there turbine inlet pressure and at what psi was your manifold or pre intercooler pressure?
-
-
I've used regular steel with out a problem until I found a peice of stainless. I wanted to polish it or I would of left the mild steel.
-
If you have a decent boost gauge the needle will fluctuate when you hear the fluttering if it is surge. This would happen at part throttle with boost. If its WOT and the revs are up you are not having surge especially if it is a small turbo like you say. Have you posted this on a SRT board? I'm sure it is common enough that they would know.
-
Make sure you do have 72' doors also. 73's got a heavier side impact brace and weigh about 10 lbs more than the earlier 240 doors.
-
Are you sure the differential, with the 3.36 gearing, is an R200? I'm quessing it's an R180 with the 3.36 gearing. I quess I've just never seen or heard of an R200 with 3.36 gears.
If it's a 260 2+2 it's an R200 3.36.
I have a 3.70 but not LSD.
-
I am trying to pick out what exhuast to run on my V8Z. I want somethint with a good sound but on the quieter side. I know nothing is going to be really quite, but as quiet as I can get with out too much restriction. I was thinking about going with Borla mufflers? What is everyone running? How do you like it? Now that you have it would you change if you could?
Borlas are nice but expensive. Dynomax makes nice straight through glass pack type mufflers in stainless. I think Magnaflow makes then in aluminized steel. Stay away from Flowmaster (flowdisaster) unless you want noise with out perfomance. I have yet to see a test were they out performed (backpressure) any straight through muffler and they are loud.
-
hasn't someone changed the internal springs on the WGA? Adding a spring externally on the arm is going to give the same characteristics I would think... a high boost peak at mid rpm falling off by redline.
Same thing happens with my SRT-4. Stock' date=' it boosts 15psi than falls to like 10psi by redline. I added a spring onto the WGA arm, and now it spikes like 18psi and falls to like 13psi to redline.
The stock spring in the SRT's WGA though is REALLY weak, it will only hold about 4psi by itself, the boost is actually controlled by a computer controlled solenoid that bleeds off pressure to get the right boost.
On the Z... maybe the combination of a spring on the WGA and a manual boost controller would do the trick?[/quote']
Did you read post 7 on the link above?
-
Any chance of using the boost pressure to assist the spring on the gate? I did some BMW turbo stuff years ago and we had special tops made for the wastegate that used air pressure from the manifold fed through a small pressure regulator to assist the spring side of the gate.
That's what I did and alot of other people do with external gates. They already have the extra port on top. You will still run into boost dropping if trying to run substantially more boost than the spring is set for.
Thumper, read post 7
-
You need to add a spring to you wastegate to increase tension. As the back pressure increases as revs go up it forces it open. Same with external gates. It doesn't matter were you get the signal from, if the spring isn't stiff enough it will open at higher boost / rpms. I went from an 8 psi WG spring that would only hold 22 psi and it still dropped a little to an 18 psi WG spring that has held 28 psi so far.
-
In Arizona it is the year of the car, they could car less about the motor.
technically' date=' i thought you were supposed to follow the emissions laws of the year the engine was produce that you're putting in there. at least that's what i thought i heard.easiest loophole... leave california
cough turbochargers are better cough
[/quote'] -
200SX turbos used 4.10 with R200.
.
Almost lost my Z !!!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
That could have been real bad. What gear did you have it in. I have never had my car roll in gear and that's all I use unless cooling the a/c before I get in in the summer then I'll use the linelock.