Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I used AN on my Z but I used metal brake line for my trucks turbo You can get it in larger diameters like the stock line and the NPT adapters at NAPA. It bend easily too.
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Here's a Greddy/Trust flywheel. I'm hosting it so it may not show up at times.
Here's AZC
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You don't need to prime the turbo. It is barely turning at idle. If you are worried you could pull the coil wire and crank till you have oil pressure but it is not needed.
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Me too.
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If you swap the gears yopu will have to set them up again, pinion depth and backlash. This will add to the cost or time. I have a 3.54 with or with out the rear cover and stubs. Email me if you are interested. siragla@attglobal.net
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The AZC flywheel is fine. One machinests opinion on a flywheel is like one mechanics opinion on turbo L28's at 20 psi. My HKS flywheel is lighter 10 lbs and just as thin, I don't know why you don't want it that light. It isn't any less drivable. The Greddy ones for 7M's are just as thin too, only the ring gear is cut in and not pressed on. Cast iron is alot weaker than billet steel if you are worried about your feet.
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With the window down or cracked the pressure inside the car is less than at the outside rear. I think you would need a 2 foot exhaust extension to get it far enough away.
Other than the main seal check the 2 hatch plugs, and the inner hatch pannel, alot of them warp, letting in fumes from the latch.
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I didn't realize these had a bad reputation. It's an aeromotive fuel pump as well' date=' so I hope the quality isn't the same as the RRFPR from what you describe. I guess I'll have to search the archives for a better RRFPR to install.
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Thye work but are just a band aid way to get more fuel and max out quick at higher boost levels. I just don't know why he didn't run a regular EFI regulator if he has stand alone.
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Man, that guy gave that car away. He should have invested in a better digi camera and spent $3 more to list more pics. You definatly got a good deal. I don't see why he is running a Tec2 with a POS RRFPR.
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When I went with the 15/16 MC on my 71' I had to adjust the rod. I didn't on the 73'. Make sure you don't have it out to far. It would be worse than not having it out far enough. Some cars will drag brakes others will not pick up the fluid. If your reaction disk has dropped down you will have more travel but would still be able to stop the rears from turning. I would chebch the rod length again.
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Biggest complaint is poor tread wear on these tires. Also some complained about bad wet traction.
That's what makes a good dry / sport tire. The lower the number the softer. The higher the traction number the less tread voids.
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leaded pump gas is not legal.
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I have done it and a friend is almost done with his. If you can weld it's not that hard. Having a whole parts car will make it easier. Don't bother with the stock turbo or a T3/4 either. Weld a flange on or make an adapter and get a Full T4, 60-1 minumum. Here's a link to mine http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/73.html
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I want to build myself an l28 from nissan and get 600 hp to my wheels with it Yeah I may be pyscho but hey,
Not a psycho, but a dreamer. 600 rwhp can be had easily but not so easily, cheaply, or reliablly with an L28:nono:. An RB26 with a stock block and head could do it, 2JZ could almost do it on pump gas but that would be too easy.
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It's not methonal. It won't warm anything but your O2 sensor and it will take a while to do that.
If you use 100LL avgas' date=' mix it 50/50 with super or regular unleaded. If you use it straight for extended periods of time in a cars fuel system, it will eat seals, rubber parts, and noncoated fuel lines. Also, eventually you will foul your plugs. Just my .02Aaron[/quote']
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I found it's easiest to use the lowest gear you have traction in, get it to were it makes boost or whatecer rpm you need and left foot brake hard so you can see what the a/f is with out accelerating.
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My biggest concern will be with alignment of the rotor and caliper once everything is bolted together. I won't be able to do that for a week or two' date=' once I get the axle carriers back from powder coating.
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Alignment won't be a problem. It is exactlty the same as the 4 lug rear, just thicker.
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All EFI fuel pressure regulators have a port for vac/boost. It will increases fuel pressure 1 psi per 1 psi of boost, 1:1.
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I don't see why it wouldn't work. Instead of a .350" thick hat it would be 1".
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got any pics of the install? I figure the inlet and outlet will have to be cut down a little and then weld 90 degree bends to match it with the holes in teh core support from my old intercooler. may just need 90 degree bend and grommets.
I managed to get mine to fit by cutting down the silicone elbows. I have about 1/16" clearance from the hood hinges but had to cut the core support quite a bit. My freind cut the in/outs off and welded new 90* to it so it would fit through the stock vent holes. His looks alot nicer.
If my page gets too much traffic as it will if I post the pics they temorarily close it, so it's easier to link it and hope it gets less traffic. I have 3 pics of mine and 2 of his here. http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/73.html
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The stock regulator is 40 psi. Running +/- 3 psi isn't going to do much.
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Exact same one I got. I'm happy with it. It is a tight fit between the hinges though.
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I'm with yo2001. It's for sure 60-1. I would find out the turbine trim. You could get your housing machined to use it's wheel. No way I would run a .48
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Has anyone else seen anyone mounting a spot caliper like this?
http://allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=33
Yeah I may be pyscho but hey,
Remember the "Serious a$$ 240z Turbo on eBay"?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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That's way higher than needed. It just asks more from the pump to be able to supply the needed volume at higher pressures. At 15 psi that's 70 psi of fuel. If the Tech is tuned right you should be able to leve it at 40-43 psi with the vac line disconnected. That's a typical pressure of most cars and what most injectors are rated at.