Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Anyone know if they use the same bellhousing bolt pattern on the engine?
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i`m thinking about 2 kind of brake setups for my project. the first is arizonazcar frontbrakes with 6-piston front calippers with 13" rotors and MM rear s13 brake setup. would this be a good brake setup? and the other one is arizonazcar COMPETITION 5-LUG Racing Brake Kit on all 4 wheels with 12.2" rotors and 4-piston calippers. what do you guys think would be the best setup? and does the 13" rotor with 6-piston calipper clear a 16" wheel?
It seems that you don't have your wheels yet if you are deciding between 4 and 5 lug. I would look at your wheel options first. There are more 5 lug options without spending alot and you can run 17x 8(or 9)" fronts, 9" rears without going custom. If it's a street car 12.2 " is plenty.
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Exhaust flow spools the turbo. Less timing = less power = less exhaust = slower spool.
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retarding the timing helps the spool up.
Don't think so, helps reduce knock though.
jtmny1999...
At what rpm are you seeing 12 psi by? 3k?, 4k?
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Any suggestions by the way. It will be tuned out to a final Hp of aroung 650-700RWHP. and obviously a 600HP pump wont cut it.
Alot of MKIV guys run twin pumps, run in parallel. Usually Walbros but you could run another Bosch.
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Ya, that's the same one I found. Power seemed to drop off quite a bit for something with a 7k redline. I found a VK56 dyno too.
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Nismo, HKS, Greddy injectors = Nippondenso. I hope they were atleast new.
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Does any one have a dyno of a VH45/Q45? I've looked all over an only found 1.
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how are those cheaper wastegates working out anywhoo? ive heard some bad things about those guys..
I've been running mine for atleast a year, maybe longer. No problems.
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turbo is T-72 BB w/ .81 ar turbine housing
Wow, what injectors are you running? I would think atleast 720's. That's going to be fast.
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okay i got quoted today 1600 for a 1jzgte with manual transmission. This looked pretty good' date=' i would assum these places would be somewhat negotiatle. I figure i could get it for 1500 or less. I have yet to find a 2jz. Smae place wanted 2400 for a rb25det motorset sans wiring.
Okay which is stronger -- 7m or 1j ? Given the choice between the two i would assume the 1j would be a better motor, and if parts are interchangable btwn the 1j and 2j this could be the ticket.
-Austin[/quote']
Not all parts are interchangable. I know for sure the ex manifold gasket is not, don't know what else though. That seems like a good price with a 5 spd. Most come with the auto.
The 1JZ can take alot more revs due to the short stroke so I guess it would make it stronger and not having a HG issue make it a better motor. HP wise they are about the same, 7M will always have more torque though.
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One allthough comes with rotor/hubs with bearings and a 13 inch rotor. superlite caliper.. but the AZC seams to be a dynalite.
AZC Z kit fronts are Superlites, the rears are dynalites. You may have been looking at the SX kit.
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Go with the stiffest one you can safetly if you plan to run higher boost with 100+ octane. If you run a 8 psi spring, and turn it up with a boost controller it will have a difficult time holding steady boost at higher rpms if you run over 18 psi. I tried it. I ended up running a 1.2 bar spring as I will never run less than 20 psi.
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I run 35mm WG's on both my Z's. Turbonetics deltagate on the 71' and Stonemountain(Tial copy) Ebay special on the 73'.
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You can alos use a press, that's what we have done on many but most are a mother to get out. Why not just let the CO sleeve set on the original weld bead on the strut tube after the perch is cut off? This is what I did on my cars.
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I am looking to start with 450 RWHP' date=' And i know this is possibe on a l28. [/quote']
If you really want to do that in rear wheel HP on pump gas I would definately skip the L28. 7M and 1JZ might do it but they will be at there limit on pump gas. 400 rwhp is easy with a 7M on 91 octane though. 2JZ's make 450-480 rwhp @ 18psi (safe limit on pump) with a big single.
If you want a reliable 450 rwhp I would use the 2JZ or something with more displacement. If you don't mind running H20 inj or 100 octane then any would do.
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Turbo pistons have P90 stamped on the tops.
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Given that you you only want 450, I would assume crank HP and you want to do it on pump gas. A stock block L28 can do that with a full T4 turbo and enough fuel on pump gas. I know I did it. You could even run additonal injectors for fuel to keep it cheap. If you have a turbo L28 already I would run that. The trans is weak, I have broke one(5th gear) but they are only $100 at the local pick and pull.
If you go the 7M route you will still need a larger turbo to make good power and a metal head gasket. Clutch and injectors are good for 400 rwhp.
The 1JZ's stock turbos might make 450 crank, not sure. The can rev like a mo-fo though due to the short stroke just like the RB26. They also use the R154 trans like the 7M.
I like the 2jz but they are double the cost of a 1jz. A vh45 with a lower CR and a T72 at 18 psi would be pure evil. I've seen them for $800-1300 on Ebay.
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It appears from the pictures that you're using the stock 71 fuel lines' date=' is this true? Are you sure they will flow enough for the current 350HP and for the expected 500HP?
Wheelman[/quote']
It is has been good for 500+ rwhp so far. I had teed in pressure guage just before the fuel rail to check. At WOT up to 6600 rpm and 24 psi of boost I had 65 psi, just as I should. The fuel pressure didn't back down at all which would be the case if the line was a restriction or if the pumps wasn't flowing enough. The pressure at idle was about 40-42 psi, a few psi higher than it should be but it is unavoidable with the small return and big pump. It isn't anything the O2 sensor can't correct for, we both run wide bands. As soon as there is any throttle input the pressure drops down. We both went through emissions at the same time and flew through.
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Clifton' date=' you say you went from 8.4:1 to 7.5:1 in your 7M without noticing any difference in off boost power or lag. Well, I think the similar compression altering on a 280ZXT engine is far more noticeable, as the 7M engine is after all a much more modern engine etc. Or is this wrong? If it is true that I won't gain much off boost response and have reduced lag etc by raising the compression on my L28T, then I won't bother with it. But I would think it should make quite a difference.
What I have always belived is that the lower the compression ratio, the easier it is to produce a lot of boost without detonation. The higher the compression ratio, the greater the fuel efficiency and nonboosted response, and the shorter the lag.[/quote']
The 7M is still an old engine that doesn't breathe all that much better, it is 200cc more though. In a 3500lb Supra I think the lower compression might be noticable.
It is true that a higher compresion ratio increases thermal effiecincy and will make a little more power off boost but it won't hurt lag which seems to be a concern. Corky also says something in there about no lag = no fun and he covers a little on turbine selection and going with the larger given a choice.
If 100 octane wasn't $5 at the pumps I would think differently. .
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I went from 8.4:1 down to about 7.5:1 on my 7M. I didn't notice ANY difference in off boost power or lag. If octane wasn't an issue for me I might of run 8.0-8.4:1, but I like to make as much power as I can on pump gas. I can run about 20 psi on 91 octane with out H2O, 24-25 psi with H2O, up from about 14 psi with the 8.4:1.
Stock L28T pistons can take 20+ psi all day long as long as you don't detonate, I do it everytime I roadrace with cast pistons, 1/2 hour at a time.
Electramotives numbers aren't anything magical. Port a head, more cam duration and rev it to 7500 rpm. Electamotives would be about 470 rwhp. That kind of power could be made with 7.4 if the head flowed and the turbo was up to it, just like theres was. 20 psi from one turbo may only make 300 (stock or upgraded T3) while from another it will make 500 hp.
Dapiper on this board made 450rwhp @ 20 psi, don't know his compression though but not far of from E motive made.
The size of the turbo has to match the power you want to make. If it does more boost will = more HP. Boost and rpms are the only way to make more power form a given displacement. A T3/4 won't get the job done if power is your goal, it doesn't matter how big that compressor is it's the T3 side that will limit you. It will spool fast at 2500 rpms which seems to be important for most, that is until they realize they only make 250 rwhp at 15 psi, but atleast it spools fast.
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I run 2 680cc additional injectors on my 7M Z. I also run 2 additional 450cc's on my turboed truck. If the factory efi works good, why mess with it? Adding a few more injectors is cheap compared to standalone and tunable. If money wasn't an issue I would run standalone on all my cars though.
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I used a baffle, pump hanger, and in-tank pump from a Supra (Z31 donor tank will also work good). Pumps are cheaper and there is no starvation at all. I have pics on my web page. I run a cell in my roadrace car, would of done the above if I could weld back then. You will still need a sump or surge tank if you go with a cell. This is if it's EFI. I wouldn't cut up a nice street car to do the cell.
what paint works on Manifolds
in Exhaust
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I have always used black 1200* paint from either Checker( I think it is Duplicolor) or VHT. They make a silver too.