Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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8" 250lb front, 8" 280lb rear. If you need an 8" spring for clearance and run a soft 8" spring you run the risk stacking the coils. I don't know how soft you can go though. 10" is different but you'll lose alot of room in the rear for a wide wheel/tire.
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yes i have comp pads and yes i get to speeds that require the big brakes' date=' thus the reason i need new ones because the old ones where not big enough. i wanted vented so that hopefully this time they wont warp.[/quote']
I wouldn't consider 280ZX brakes big. Hate to see you spend good money on something just a little better. ZX's are marginally bigger but not big. You can still warp a vented rotor and boil the fluid if you get them hot enough.
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Wow, that's a pretty big improvement:icon14:. What cam of theirs was it? I was looking and didn't see a turbo cam listed or any of the lobe center numbers. Were you running a turbo cam or N/A cam before?
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N/A High imp
Turbo Low imp
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Does your return line return back to the surge tank before returning back to the main tank?
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There are no vented rotors that just bolt on with out a spacer. If you are using 14" wheels chances are the car doesn't have enough power to get to the speeds on a track that would require big brakes. Could be wrong though. New rotor, removing the dust sheilds, and a race- race/street type pad would make a big improvement. If you are set on vented, Modern motorsprots sells everything you need. If you are running Vipers and ZO6's down the straights I would get big brakes.
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If that had a .68 or .70 I would be interested. I just made an adpater for someone else to run a T series (T66 ect) sized turbo with external WG off the stock manifold. I still have some flanges and could do another. The Tial style WG's have a much smaller diaphram housing than the Deltagate. You would be fine running a 35mm one on there. I haven't had any boost control issues running one Even at 30 psi.
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Use a stiff spring to pull on the WG flapper. A small bracket and threaded rod is all that is needed and a spring. It is more reliable and dead accurate.
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Even if you could weld springs, adding more coils would reduce the spring rate and raise the car. If you cut the spring it would stiffen it.
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The stock T3 is perfect for a 1.6L.
That is why honda and other small displacement guys run them. -
That's quite a big gap for 14 psi.
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I don't know what's available for the slip yoke but you can run a Spicer 1310 in the rear, I do but have a larger Toyota front joint. I would think that if Neapco and Spicer make a conversion for the diff end there would be something for the front.
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50% meth, 50% water. I get the meth from a local place that carries race fuel. 5 gallons has lasted about 6 months.
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All the links are on my old computer. I know I got the nozzles (nickle plated brass M5 , M10) from McMaster Carr though. 100 psi Shur-flo pump http://www.sprayingequipmentsupply.com/pumps/diaphragm-pump.html has them. 2 100 psi solenoids, 2 pressure switches, clear fuel filter, mylon screen, 1 gallon plastic fuel tank, alot of refrigerator tubing (polyethelyne) and compression fittings, 2 lights hooked to the solenods. You don't want anything metal in there. The solenoids are stainless so they should last a little while.
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Has anyone had any good experiences with a certain home made kit, what method did you use as far as controlling the injection, and how were the gains? Any information appreciated. I am just want to see who has done what and experienced what kit / ways work better than others.
Home brew. I use a 5 and 10 gph nozzle stagged, 5 gph @ 12 psi, 10gph @18 psi, no duty cycle just on with a solinoid. I use 50% meth, just for it's cooling properties not to add fuel the other 50% purified water. I can run 26 psi max boost with out knock. I keep it at 24 psi to leave a little saftey margin. Before I added the meth I ran 22-23 psi psi on straight water. I never tested the max boost without knock on water alone though. There isn't much to making your own kit. IMO there isn't much benifit to aftermarket kits if you are not running straight meth and using it for fuel instead of just it's latent heat of vaporation. There isn't enough of a change in my AFR when mine comes on based on my wideband readings. Meth makes max power at around 4.5:1 so you would have to add alot of it to change the afr.
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I've run water before the turbo back in the day, before I had an intercooler. I didn't have any wear. I now run it right after the intercooler outlet.
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Running too lean will cause a backfire through the intake. FI or carbed.
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The pattern is the same but did the wheel mount surface sit flush on the hub? Toyota uses a smaller diameter. I tried them on my Z31, same hub diameter as any Nissan.
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Those MKIII wheels won't work. The hub/center hole is way too small.
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I was kinda vauge. I was refering to cam timing being retarded. I'll put money on non P trim
. Regardless I can't wait to see the cam comparison. -
The SP57 has a 57mm compressor wheel and P-trip turbine wheel. It is the baby of the SP family. There are hybrid T3/T4 turbos w/ larger compressor wheels.
Actually from what I've seen posted the SP57 should be a 60-1 wheel and a stage 5 turbine with a .58 on the hotside. SP60 is a P trim, .68+
What cam is in it now? Turbo? Is the valve timing stock? For it to peak at 4500 and then drop with that turbo it seems almost like it is advanced too much.
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I have seen 6 cylinder people put down the same rwhp as there injectors are rated at. I doubt you are over 350 whp at 15 psi with that turbo. Even if you were and you were starting to run lean it would still pull while gradually getting lean.
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If the rod is out to far it will not allow fluid in either. 71's usually need it lenghted but with out pulling you MC back off there isn't a way to know. You should be able to do it with out taking the brake lines off again.
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If your fuel pump cannot supply enough volume your pressure will drop at higher RPMs. I would T in a cheap ($5) gauge and watch it at WOT.
That is why honda and other small displacement guys run them.
. Regardless I can't wait to see the cam comparison.
Turbo piston questions
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
If you need a few turbo pistons to replace your flat tops I have a partial set. A thicker HG will advance your timing, favoring low end.