Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I really want to pick up a 240z 70-73... was wondering, can a zx turbo exhuast manifold/turbo/downpipe bolt right up? then have a plenum built for the carbs to run for it? Dont really want to go thru an engine swap conversion. But this should work right?
The turbo manifold will bolt up. I don't know if you can blow through SU's though. The old SU kits were suck through. You could run a 4 barrel or twin DGV Webers and blow through them. Used down draft Webers are cheap. You can get plenums for either that bolt on. Don't expect to run alot of boost on an L24/26 though.
In the long run you would be better off and happier finding a ZXT in a JY and getting the EFI, long block, and turbo though.
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Do you know if they will come with the camber plates like the ones in your link? They are pretty sweet!!
They will for the complete kit. I rode in his S13 with the suspension and his Z32. The Z was set on 7, don't know about the SX. There was plenty of dampening, The Z32 felt a little softer that a Z32 turbo with the factory stuff set on sport which is pretty firm but not to much for a DD, can't say what the higher settings are like though. A friend is in the process of putting it on his 240Z. He still has to finnish the 7M swap though before it is drivable, maybe 3 weeks, he has until the West Coast Nationals. I'll most pics once he gets it on.
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any details?
It uses the same threaded strut body as the 240SX kit http://www.arizonazcar.com/240sxbrakes.html. They have 15 way adjustability. You cut the Z strut tube and use a threaded sleeve that is welded on the Z strut tube.
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AZC is working on a different/new set up too.
Hey Guys' date='Since Uncle Sam finally returned that loan I gave him all last year, It is burning a hole in my pocket! I am looking at the Arizona "complete" front road race assembly... I am also looking at Modern motorsports stuff... Are there any other ones to look at?... Is it just mo-betta to build them up myself?... pros and cons to the Arizona Complete kit?
Myron[/quote']
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I ran a 2.5" without a muffler withg the stock hotside, still have it in my backyard. When I went full T4 I did the exhaust (3") without a muffler but ended up running one. The larger the turbo the louder it will be.
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I use ecentric nylon bushings in the rear of my 73' to adjust camber, I thibk they are G-machine. AZC and I think MSA sells them. They have them for the front too. On my 71' I slotted the upper mount in the rear.
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I second the bearings. Worn bearings will cause whine. Gears don't wear out, just break.
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Do you know the a/r on the hotside, should be stamped on it. Curious to know what other people run. I'm running a P trim too, with a .70 divided hotside.
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We need a full boost roll on vid. please:mrgreen: That's got to makes some noise when the WG opens. What's the spec on the turbo, how much boost are you running?
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Thanks for posting this. Your research has saved me form the which brand is better problem. I just used the Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II spray. I can't believe how good it worked. I didn't even have to scraped, just hosed it off.
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I know alot of people replace bearings but if the races are not grooved why replace them? If you are replacing the bearings I wouldn't go oem. 100% mark up isn't worth it. Autozone, Checker, ect. for bearings and seals or I would get the MM hubs.
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I didn't read all of the post but have you checked compression? I know the N/A's have higher compression, but also a different head. Could have an N/A block? I've seen alot of talk about people (MKIV guys) knowing there exact timing, and timing being pulled. I assume they are using an OBD scanner.
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Wow, that's pretty good for an N/A motor.
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300zx injectors from a NA car are 370cc and will work
Wrong. Z32 turbo are 370cc, but they are side feed.
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What cam did you use, stock turbo? Also why stop at 5600, it is still making power after the little dip.
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370's will work, so will 450's but if you want to do it only once and or going stand alone don't get just enough fuel. Get 550's or bigger. I am running 550's on my L28 with SDS and on the 7M, 6 550's and 2 additonal 450's. Your 300 rwhp goal could change if you get the itchy boost bug. A bigger turbo on race gas and 25-30 psi you will need more fuel than 450's will provide. It doesn't hurt to go bigger than you need. JSK has O ring fuel rails pretty cheap and O ring injectors are alot easier to find in the larger sizes.
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Everyone I've seen have been 1/8 npt. If it's a standard shaft T4 it is the same bearing housing as a T3.
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Wow, 25*C / 75*F is Arizona temps in the winter. I ran a 280ZX N/A radiator in 110-115* AZ heat with AC, don't know what that is in C* but it's melt your skin hot. It did get a little warm so I am running an AZC radiator now but 110* is alot hotter than 75*F. If it's in the car now and it's working good I wouldn't worry.
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Isn't Norway on the cold side. I know you might have problem here (Arizona) in the summer with the heat.
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Why complicate things and add a another pump? Pulling a pan isn't that hard.
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It all depends on your application.
For a street car' date=' it's entirely possible to have a 400 ft-lb engine with no subframe connectors, no cage, and no strut tower braces - and not notice any problems - if the car's performance is never tested in a controlled situation.
On the other hand, skilled drivers will notice chassis flexure even at much lower torque levels, for example in road racing.
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If there is flex how much is there? 400 ft/lbs really isn't much. I think people like to believe they notice flex. In a RR car there would be more flex from lateral load than engine torque.
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300zxt injectors are the same as 280zxt. get some Ford 370's if you are on the stock turbo and don't plan to go bigger.
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Man I wish the 4" thick ones were 17.5" long too. It looks like 2 90* elbows is all you'll need. The 24" core barely fit. I had to cut the elbows, trim the hood hinges and open up the core support vent holes alot and it still rubs.
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My 71' has a little over 400 rw torque, the 73' close to 500 ft/lbs. I don't run strut bars and haven't had any problems. A unibody is stiffer than most framed cars. People may recomend this or that but IMO most of it is not nessacery.
225mm to 250mm clutch swap Competition Cluth - HELP
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
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I run an HKS 225mm 10lb flywheel with a 4 puck disk. A 225 mm clutch will hold whatever you want if you increase the clamp load and or disk material. I wouldn't get to hung up on the Exedy, Asco, Nissan name. It's just OE replacement parts and none will hold alot of torque. Don't know what kind of power you have. Unless the disk material has been changed or spring pressure replacement parts are basically all the same. IMO $450 for just a flywheel is alot.