Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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1JZ is a 2.5 rated at 280 hp. They are popular swaps with the mkIII guys. If I were going to do it I would do the 2JZ, It's all about hp or you wouldn't want it
.Hi guyz... are these engines that differnt? >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2443420143&category=33615 << I mean' date=' would it be a mistake to try and make this fit/work into my early 260, which already has a ton of money spent on the stroker build up.I could do like zgad did and sell off my turbo header and all the other Z motor goodies to help offset the cost, but would this motor be a better platform to build upon to reach bigger hp #'s.
I already have a Tec2, so the ecu is not important.
Sorry to hijack this thread, but I thought it was inline with the subject
Thanks for any advice from experince...
joel[/quote']
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On a turbo car you have plenty of torque once you get into boost. I like having my power band up into the higher rpm range were the HP is and were I tend to be when I need it.
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That is urban legend. As long as the boost line is connected the tha vac port any FPR will increase FP 1:1 until the pump can no longer keep up, wich on a stock pump may only 7 psi above atmo. I've tested the stock FPR with 30 psi to the vac port while testing my pump for volume/ pressure and it works fine.
I am using that exact regulator (MSD# 2222) I am more than happy with it so far. The boost enrichment is not adjustable and will always be 1lb. of fuel to lb. of boost although the baseline fuel pressure is adjustable' date=' say 36PSI. fuel pressure at 0 boost/Vaccum plus 10PSI. of fuel at 10PSI. boost=46PSI of fuel pressure.... well you get the idea.I have heard that these units are only capable of adding a certain lbs. of fuel under boost, I think the number I heard was 7psi. or something like that, but that could be, and probably is just "urban legend"
Anyhowe, I would highly recommend this unit![/quote']
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Retarding the cam timing gives more top end, advancing more bottom end. The 2 and 3 holes advance it more, good if your chain has 200k on it. I run mine on 1.
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For a little more you can get a used HKS AIC one Ebay, still run the stock injectors and make big hp. That's how I did it before I got the SDS. 6 stock L28 turbo injectors and 2 550cc's with the AIC. You are only going to get so much out of a 270cc injector, and what there is still is not enough.
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I wasn't going to ask but I feel impelled. A carb needs to be set to were the the motor runs best. If it has proper A/F through the revs and under load and at idle you can't just turn it down and have it run cleaner. I doubt he changed the mains but if it idles good and he turned the idle jets down, leaning it out, it will fail just as bad as if it was to rich. So if it does fail, don't be too discouraged theres alot of ex. analyzers out there.
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Oh' date=' forgot to mention, I'm port matching my manifolds and head and polishing the combustions chambers. I've also been thinking about having my exhaust manifold treat with jet hot to help keep temps down under the hood. Should the intake manifold be done too? Also, this car will be driven on the street, but I go to the track about 10 times a year. I can live with quarks if it means the car will perform better at the track. Last of all, how much nitrous could a guy safely run on a setup like this? I figure I'd go with a wet setup if I even do it, but I've got a high 11 second honda that I'm going after and he's going down!
James[/quote']
I would also unshroud the valves while you're in there. I don't think jet hot will help with temps as much as it helps with looks. You also need to get some larger injectors if you want to make more power. Some day people will stop buying these 370cc HP limiters. I would think that at the psi you a running you should be atleast 350+ to the wheels. Nitrous is similar to boost in that if it knocks you are running to much, less timing and you can run more.
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I didn't want to say till I got a chance to run it a few more times cause it was so close to a 12, but beeing that you asked. 13.005 @ 108.8 This was at 10 psi on a stock 7M with stock turbo and 177k miles.
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We sanded the crank for about 2.5 hours, it still ruined the new bearings. Then I came up with this idea. I pulled out the bad piston, block the crank's oil holes with a pair of bearings and radiator clamp. I then unhooked the injector, removed the plug wire. I also removed the rocker arms./quote]
Come on, this is a joke right?
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it has no air pump, cat converter, and its got a few upgrades like cam, intake, 4-barrel carb. real fast but probably spits out some pollution. .
They are not required to have cats. I have never had a smog pump on any Z and never had problems with it. Unless the cam is silly big it shouldn't hurt you to much. The 4 barrel isn't a bad thing as more people would know what to do with it to get you through than with SU's. I would make sure your timing is to specs and run it through.I can't remember if they check the gas cap though. When you go, there is a sign that lists by year as to what test you have to do. You get one re-test for free and only the IM 240 is $27, yours will be cheaper. Don't sweat it.
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I don't know why you guys are talking about putting a cat on it. It isn't required or needed to pass. 74 and older they don't check for equipment, don't open the hood. It is also just an idle test not the "EVIL" IM 240 that can be a much harder if not running in top shape. Anyone with an exhaust analyzer can get it through.
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Just curious, what kind of boost / hp are you running?
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15* total at the stock 7 psi with 7.4:1 is a little low. You could run 25+ psi on pump with that little timing
. I run 22 psi at 20*-22* total, can't remember wich. The middle to high 20's sounds right. You should add another 10*. -
Hmm, a t4 is something to consider. How difficult is it to mod onto an L28 exhaust manifold?
I got a T4 flange for $10, welded it on and hoged out the tiny T3 hole to match it. It isn't a big deal especially that you are going external anyways, mounting the WG will take longer. If you are not going external you might be better of with the T3/4, but I wouldn't run the .63. Z car guys seem to be the only 6 cylinder people hanging on the the T3/4. MKIII, MKIV,GN, and RB's making big HP on single turbos all seem to be using T4's.
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There's some of mine on the link below. The door bars extend to the doors outer skin (fiberglass doors) for a good amount of safety.
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If you are going external wastegate and a t3/4 60-1 and it is $625, I would just go with a full T4 60-1 for $25 more. You won't regret it. There is more than enough motor to spool it. With what you listed you should have no problem making atleast 350+ rwhp when cranked up.
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You should have more than one water temp sensor, one for the gauge and at least one or more for the ecu. You can use a different sender as long as the range is the same. When I did my 7M swap I put the L28 and 7M one into a pot of water on the stove and heated them and checked resistance as the temp went up. The 7m had a completely different range so I turned the Z one down a little on a lathe and used it. I obviously used the L oil pressure sender as that just screws in, VG30 should have the same threads.
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I had to do this before I had the SDS. I removed the wieghts and wired the tabs the weights were on. I had my total between 20-25*. Being that you are N/A I would assume you'll be around 35*, too much and you'll get a light rattle even at cruise. Don't know if emissions is required for you but it will be hard to pass with the timing so high at idle. You can adjust your timing so you total timing is were you want it. just keep the revs above 3500 so all the mechanical is in and then set it. Anytime I adjust timing I always go for total and not idle. Except when going throught emissions. You'll need a timing light with a dial on it.
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I've had round tops, DGV Webers and a 4 barrel with a 390cfm. I like the 4 as it had an electric choke and never needed minor tuning as the SU's seem to need until you get them right. You are going to need a unisyn also. If the prices were the same I'd go with the 4bbl but SU's are cheaper
. As far as HP, I don't think there is going to be to much of a difference on a basicaly stock motor. Back in the day I beat an SU carbed Z with my 4bbl and crappy manifold that bolted to the SU manifold, not to say it's better, just isn't anyworse. I know that Az Z Car's manifold has a plenum seprator that others don't, I don't now the benifit of it though. -
Dam. I didn't know SX's were that light. I figured with all the gov't induced crash bumper BS on them they'd be closer to 2900. Although not an RB, the motor weight might be close. My 73' with a 7MGTE, R200, a half tank of gas and 40lb spare was 2630.
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the swap only took about 2 weeks, however we have been working on a bunch of things for it. If i had time and notice, i could do it in a few days while working and going to school.
I don't see how you could do it complete in a few days, 2 weeks with help I could see. Custom exhaust, driveshaft, intercooler plumbing, and motor/trans mounts + wiring takes time. I had a few days just in the exhaust.
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We may just never know with me lol
oh where can you pick up injector mounts thanks Juan
I got mine from Arizona Z Car. They look like the HKS ones but have a little more angle. I know SDS also sells them, although it's a different design. I think it would be hard to sell something premade as alot of us are running different intercoolers, tube size, and our plumbing varies from car to car, unlike a Z32 turbo were the plumbing is all the same.
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You can pick up injector mounts for $15-20 each. I think HKS is including there AIC driver fro that price as a kit. I don't know what you mean by the "rotate system " or "ball and socket style pipe". I welded mine to the pipe just befor the TB.
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Both the 7M and 1JZ use the R154. The only difference is the bellhousing. For what you can get a new 60-1 for I would just go with a single, T series are almost double.
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Fuel Pump For High hp Turbo car?
in Fuel Delivery
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