Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I looked but didn't see any prices on there site. If they have it for that, that's a great deal. I didn't seen it cheaper than $140 when I got mine. I'll definatly try them on my next pump.
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I am hoping/thinking that I can use the gas tank but I dont know how smart or stupid that may be' date=' and I dont know if the fuel inlet will line up with my 73 car(?), otherwise I have the line issue, at least the return line it looks like is too small to be used.[/quote']
The 73' return will work with a stock pump. If you put on a big pump it will not allow enough fuel to return at idle. I tried this and had 65psi when it should have been about 36psi. It's alot easier to run a new line with the motor and trans out of the way, I would change it while you have easy access to the trans tunnel.
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I'm running a Walbro GSL392. $140 at APE http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ . Mine flowed 40 gal/hr at 60psi and 60 gal/hr at 40 psi at 14v measured on the car from the return through stock lines. More than enough for 500+hp at 20 psi. I don't know what the Bosch on the 944T's are rated and was afraid to chance it, but I know they get big power out of them. If you get the 944 pump make sure it's a Turbo unless they are the same.
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$1500 and no trans, ouch! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407426861&category=33615
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Chrysler, Nissan, and Ford all use different bolt patterns on the wastegate housing. Turbonetics uses the Ford pattern.
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You also might want to ask the turbo shop if you can even put a Roto-mater Compressor on there. That might be some big shat set up like garrets T series. Garret and Air Research are the same but I believe Roto-master made there own stuff. You could of bought new Garret stuff for what you paid for that and you could of picked your trim.
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The turbo cams also have less lift on the intake. I don't see the benifit of the P90 cams compared to the older "A" cams. More duration would give you more top end but I don't think there is enough difference between stock cams to make a noticable difference. If you're looking for more I would go after market and get a real improvement. A stock T3 hot side will spool up any compressor more than fast enough at 3000 rpm+. My .02.
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You can make 250RWHP on a bone stock L28ET with ease. The KA24 pistons will work but are not designed for turbo use and do not have the thick upper ring land. Stock turbo pistons are alot stronger and more forgiving. I would spend your stroker money on turbo, clutch and efi parts. When I trash a motor I have no problem throwing in another $200 junk yard motor. When a big $$$$ stroker motor goes it's gonna hurt.
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Your HP goals could be easily obtained with your motor. If you don't have a turbo yet I wouldn't go with a T3, it might get you to where you want but that's about all it will do. You will want more down the road and it will not have it. I would scrap the 76' EFI, there is nothing to retard timing under boost or enrich under boost. If you put in larger injectors it will be to rich off boost. You could ad an MSD BTM and run additional injectors or there are other options as stand alone. A 3" downpipe on a stock T3 only to run a 2.5" exhaust? I would run all 2.5". The turbo outlet is only about 2.5".
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That's amazing, I never knew US tracks had db limits. I wasn't sure if it was some state law or just the track.
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Are all the Ca. tracks this strict on noise. What do they do when Cart races there? I've never heard of a db limit at a track or even on the street in Az.
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That's how T3/T4's are made. Your TA/49 should be a T04 E 60 trim, alot of people run those.
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My buddy has got some injectors from a mustang 5.0 there 35 psi injectors. Man you can really tell the difference in the power. I do believe that the OEM psi for the L28e Motor is only like 26 psi. So yeah one of the different injectors that you can get are the mustang 5.0l
Dave
Do you mean lb/hr? Putting in a larger injector with stock efi on a stock motor will not make more power.
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My son and his starion friends are experimenting doing this--take a look at this web site [url']http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/injector.htm[/url]
Using a cold start valve as on theis web site is a bad idea. There is now way to control the pulse width for increasing RPM and boost. It's either off or on. If the A/F is good at 3500 @ 10 psi, it will be lean at 5500 rpm @ 10 psi. This is what not to do. AIC's can be picked up pretty cheap on Ebay.
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I would really recommend a larger injector than the stock 280ZXT ones before you spend a lot of time getting it programed. You can easily max them out with your set up and 15 psi. The motor is capable of much more than they can flow and with stand alone and more boost, it can be easily achieved. If you wait and put the larger ones in later you'll have to reprogram everything all over.
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I was talking about for street use but drag racing isn't too hard on brakes. No threshhold braking, one stop every now and then. If you are experiencing brake fade with cheap pads, a race worthy streetable pad will make a big difference. Stock brakes work great under street conditions, and can handle a couple of hard stops. It's just when you make repeated stops at high speeds lap after lap that the heat cannot dissipate.
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A race type pad, I've used Axxis metal masters, make a huge difference in reducing brake fade. I do agree with Mudge, the stock solid rotor definatly limits you, even with a larger caliper.
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Toyota 79-85' all had solid axles and rotors, these calipers are a bolt deal. 86-95' were IFS and have vented rotors. Within the IFS years they had V6 calipers 88-95' that have 4 large pistons compared to the 4 vented that had 2 large and 2 small pistons. You need the 79-85 calipers for stock 240Z brakes.
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I'm using the MSD boost retard. They make one for use with the 6AL and one with stock ignition. I have the one for stock ign. You can adjust it between 0-3 degrees per psi. I have used the Jacobs one in the past. It is crap compared to the MSD's adjustablity. It was worth the $179 I paid. I run mine close to the edge of knock. If I hear anything I just turn the little knob a little more.
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I had a GN turbo with a lightly grooved shaft. The local shop sent it(turbine wheel) to a shop in Cali and they turned it down .005". With a complete rebuild kit and shipping it was under $140, can't remember the exact amount it was a year ago. I don't know the limit they can turn stuff down. Rebuilding a turbos is pretty easy, Once you pull it apart you'll see there's really no much to them. I've never had any thing balanced and never had any problems and I've replaced wheels with new ones. Each part is balanced seperately from the factory, Turbonetics and a few other big shops balance the comp. wheel and the turbine together as one peice, the majority of small shops don't and or I should say can't.
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I've had no problems. On my Z I've run up to 20 psi with 2 550's and have the dyno sheet in the Datsun L6 section. I'm only going with SDS because I need more fuel than I can get out of the current set up and I have a set of 550's ready to go in. On my truck (Toyota V6) I run 12 psi with 9:1 CR. One 550cc and one 260cc. It's been turboed for 11 months, daily driver and no problems. I do run a boost retard also. I'm happy with it on the truck as the AIC does not effect me passing emissions. I agree that it isn't as good as 1 larger injector with programable EFI or 2 injectors per cylinder with one being controlled with an AIC but I don't think that it is any worse than a carb. If you plan to run methanol, you'll need to double the cc's on the injectors compared to what you'd run with gas.
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SDS and HKS both make inj. holders. You can get steel or aluminum I got some from AZZcar. I welded them into the tubr just before the TB I run add inj on my Z and truck, both turboed. On my cay they sprayed into the airstream, on my truck they spray torwards the TB. I can send a pic of each if you'ld like ideas. IMO It sounds like you are trying to make your setup complicated. I prefer running it all on the same fuel system. There is nothing to worry about or remember to fill. If you need an intercooler I would put one on instead of water injection, again put it on and forget about it.
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ok so the manifolds will not bolt up, that was the main question, my logic was that a higher compression motor upder same boost wil make more power
The exhaust manifold will bolt up, it's the intake that's the problem. More compression will make more power if the timing is the same on baoth motors, to a point. Then the high CR motor will not tolerate any more boost were the low CR motor can take quit a bit more with out the risk of knock. I guess if you are looking for a low boost set up you'll be ok, but it's definatly not the ideal setup.
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Your logic is wrong, you don't need high comp on a turbo motor. The turbo makes up for it with boost. E31,E88's don't have the threaded holes to bolt up a EFI manifold or the notches for the injectors. You are much better off with a stock turbo long block. The top ring land on the turbo piston is much thicker and alot more forgiving than any other Datsun/ Nissan piston. You can swap an EFI head on your L24 block but you'll still have N/A flat top piston. This will limit your boost and be carefull with detonation. The turbo (
cams have less lift on the intake, the (A) cams are the same in.t and ex.
cams have less lift on the intake, the (A) cams are the same in.t and ex.
Making a hybrid turbo
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I have a T04B compressor, V trim. I don't remberber the A/R though. I didn't have any interference when it was a T3/4. I swapped it over to a full T4 and there's plenty of room. I can't believe they didn't line. That sucks. You could measure the wheel to make sure it is in fact an E trim, they all use the same backplate, and get a new back plate. If you have the parts I would do what you can to get it on there.