Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I've been driving it alomst everyday. Runs great. I too did not go with power steering, it's no worse than witht he L motor. It's actually probably better as the motor sits so much further back. I might on the next one though as my wife would probably enjoy it more. I put a pic of the D side mount on my pic page. You can't really tell how it is made though. They are 3/16" plate, bolted to the Z rubber. The trans mount is probably harder just because you are on you back and you can't use the stock mount. I used the Supra trans mount and welded on brackets to the Z body. As majik16106 did I put it as low and as far back as I could. It's about 1/8" above the steering rack at it's closest and about 1/2-3/4" form the brake line bracket on the fire wall. I should of went back another 1/4" though as the motor mount and oil filter are pretty close. You will also need to "dog leg" the shifter to get it back further. I used the Z end so it looks stock. I have all the A/C. I just need to get custom lines made up before next summer. A/C is a necessity in Az. The clutch line bolted right up. It's on the D side so I re bent the line and welded a new tab. The speedo also bolted right in. I checked accuracy with my GPS. It reads 1.5 mph low between 60-65mph with 225/45-17's and a 3.70. My donor also had a 3.70 (pre 89 had a 3.90)
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Unplug one of your head light conectors in front of the radiator and unplug the concter at the steering wheel and check for continuity. Check fro voltage at the plug and continuity between the red/black at the front plug and switch plug, the low beam is red/black, green + . I just went through this last night, checked everything and the found 2 headlights with no low beams. So it is possible to loose 2 at once.
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I know there are tests you can do with a grinding stone, I don't know what color the sparks should be though. I have welded flanges to the stock Z manifold over 5 years ago and they are still on there. I also did a Toyota manifold. I mig'd mine but have arc welded cast steel just as much. They'll know when they weld it. It doesn't weld as clean as mild steel but If they've ever tried to weld iron they'll know it is cast steel.
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White Z31's turbos have clutch type LSD's. It's the Shiro Special (SS) that is white with white trim and wheels that has the viscous LSD.
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I cut the top off and put the sump inside and added an in-tank pump. Click the link below, it's one of the last pics.
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You can get SDS through Mike(SCCA) on this board for less than retail, I did. 4cyl systems are even cheaper than the 6's. If you plan on staying in the 4 cyl thing I would get the SDS. The piggy back will work but it's really not the ideal setup and may limit you in the future. After you spend the $400 on it you'll say for a little more I could have gone total programable with the option of going turbo in the future if you want. The SDS is easy to get running with the base program and the amount of control on the timing is great. I would get the 3 bar so it will already be set up for what ever you want (N/A or turbo).
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I was told that they could make my downpipe' date=' no problem. But of course they change their minds when they look at it again... "thats cast Iron, we can't weld that" then why did you tell me you could?
jerks! [/quote']It's not cast iron, it's cast steel. You can weld it and the exhaust manifold and turbo. They are use to the US crap and think everything else is the same.
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as far as i have been able to surmise the only car the R200 3.36 diff came on is the
280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200). i have heard rumors that it also came on some 260Z 74 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200) but i am not convinced yet.
It is not a rumor, 260 2+2's do have an R200 3.36. I have one that I pulled from one.
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I run a welded 3.90 with my L28ET and a 3.70 LSD with my 7MGTE. I like em both. If you are going turbo you should get something other than an open diff. Also 70'-71' had the diff further forward. The rear bracket that mounts the control arms is straight. You will need to get one from a a later modle that has the rearward curve or the R200 will not fit.
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I found otu the tach signal on the ecu is the same as the ignitor siganl. I just used the Supra tach guts in the Z housing. It's off a little cause the supra has a larger face, but works and is better than nothing. I found out than MSD sells a distributorless tach driver (8913) it's says for after market but I didn't call to verify. They also sell 3 other tach adapters for factory tachs, 8920, 8910, 8910EIS. I had to use the 8910 on my Toyata truck hwen I ran there boost retard so I know that will trigger a stock tach. Maybe this combined with the 8913 would work? Dakota Digital sells a universal adapter that will recalibrate for number of cylinders for engine swaps. I don't know if works on coil packs though. http://dakotadigital.com/Detail.cfm?Category=122&PartNumber=SGI-8 If anyone gets any of these or any thing else to work please post for others. I still have another 7M swap to do
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It's going to be a daily driver. For anyone interested in doing the swap The whole FSM is online. They are the same 89-92. The wire colors are the same 87-88 but the ecu plug is different. If someone had an 87-88 I can send them the ecu plug sheets. Here's the manual http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html
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You done anything to yours?
No it's stock, well I port matched the exhaust side when I changed the exhaust manifold gasket but other than that it's stock. The 71' is my play car, I did this one for a daily driver.
"where do you 7m guys get your motors.. ?
was the wiring tough? "
I've bought 2 turbo Supras and 2 Z31 turbos (for the LSD's) at insuranse auctions to part out. I made enough to pay for the cars and keep 2 7M drivetrains and 2 R200 LSD's. I have another 7MGTE with ecu and trans with low miles that I plan on putting into my other 73' when I restore it. The wiring isn't that hard with the FSM. There is a web site that has it online. There is a seperate electrical section that is not online but is kinda needed as it has all the color codes. There are only a few wires that need to be hooked up to run.
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Finally got it on the ground last night. Took about a month. I used the 7M ecu, wiring, in tank fuel pump, intercooler(had to turn outlet), and stock down pipe connected to 3" tube. It runs but I still need to get the tach working. There's more pictures at the link at the bottom.
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clifton..
do you have any pics of your 7m swap? Would you share any knowledge you have about swapping a supra motor in a Z .. i would be very greatful..
-Justin
I'm almost done with it. Just started it last night for the first time, but still need to finish alot of little things. I will start a new topic in a couple days when it's complete.
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MKIII guys swap 1JZ's and 2JZ's 's in place of there 7M's so I would think the are about the same as size and mounting locations go. I know the N/A 2JZ uses a W58 trans, I don't if you plan to use this or the R154. I just put a 7M in my 73' with the R154 and it is TIGHT in the trans tunnel, I should have cut out the stock mounts that run up the tunnel comletely but didn't. I had to weld plate to the body further back to hang the new mounts. I know this is a 7m but the trans mount location will probably be about the same, just a heads up. Also when you get you get your D shaft made they have serviceable rear flanges for the later R200's like the LSD. You might want to spend the extra $40 if you are planning big HP.
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I was planning on pulling my signal from the tach output on the stock ecu and not the coil packs. I don't know if you are running a factory ecu or if there is a way you can find the tach output on it. If so you might want to try that.
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We don't need to agree, people have different idea's on things and this is head gasket related. It is related to the post and a benifit to some. I felt it was just a disscussion. I will not post another comment on it though as you feel it is pointless to others. Take care.
Clifton
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[
Clifton, chill out. I said:
This is just the way I think...I'm not spreading false information, just giving my opinion. Every one of the turbo Buick guys I hang around with think of the head gasket a a fuse also. We use stock GM head gaskets properly torqued down, even in high hp engines. In all honesty, what would you rather have fail, a head gasket or 4 pistons? Blowing a head gasket rarely happens if you know what you're doing, but sh!t happens. We are also talking about turbo to N/A cars here as far as I know.
!M!
I don't know why you are saying "chill out", I was just giving my opinion. In 14 yrs of having turbo Z cars I don't think 4 pistons is that bad considering how close to the edge I run the timing and boost. I am just saying fuses have a known limit, HG's don't and instalation would greatly effect it's performance as a fuse. A HG that would blow just before a cast piston would break would be too unreliable. 7MGTE's are notorious for blowing HG's but there are still people breaking pistons without loosing the HG. This is what the knock sensor was designed to do.
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I just got a 240 running after 4.5 yrs of sitting. I went through this car before it was parked so everything on the motor was perfect, I also went through the carbs, they were spotless. My dad finally realized he was never going to do anything with it so now I have another Z. The gas sitting is the real problem. I had to take the suction chambers of the carbs off to clean the varneshed crap off the needles. The chokes would not work from the sticky mess under the carbs and I also clean out the float bowls as I didn't want any junk getting in the valve for the needles. The tank had so much crap ( rusty tar like junk) in it it would not stay running. I changed fuel pumps before realizing this. If yours is bad don't waste your time, get another or get it boiled out, flushing with gas will not work. I tried muratiic acid and it wouldn't touch the tarred up goop. I put another tank in it. Points and cap were still good. The oil was still clear, he probably drove it less that 200 miles before parking it fix the interior. I would pull the tops off the carbs atleast. I finally got it to run only to have a water passage erode past the firing ring. Now it's in the middle of a 7M swap.
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I've seen the AZZCAR one. It's NA but complete.
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Foregot to ad [/url]http://www.scegaskets.comhttp://
"Here is the mail message they sent me....
Thank you for the interest in our head gaskets. Yes we do offer a copper
head gasket for the Nissan L6 for the Z. The bores we offer are 87.3 mm and
88.9 mm. I don't have an 88 mm bore punch. The thickness' available are,
..032"-.043"-.050"-.062"-.080".093". "
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Head gaskets are NOT fuses and are not intended to be. I've broke 4 pistons from detonation through the years but have never blown a HG. This is how false information gets spread.,Then you have people feeling safe thinking there HG will protect them.
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I wasn't sure why you said use an autometer tach when I was asking about 280 tachs. I'm trying to keep this car as stock looking inside as possible, hense the stock tach. I know autometer gauges are good, I've been using them for over 10 years and my 71's dash is full of them. This car is just a budget build up to run around in.
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40 Amps pull even though intermittent could be something to consider depending on your use. 40 amps definately require a good strong battery especially in light of the other draws on the system.
The battery is just to start the motor. The alternator is what powers everything when running, but at idle that fan might exceed the alternator on an old Z.
jerks! [/quote']
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R200 for a turbo Z car
in Drivetrain
Posted
3.36 R200's are not uncommon. I have one. Email me if you are intested. 3.15 didn't come in anything, it is a Nissan Motor Sports part.
siragla@attglobal.net