Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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There's a cheap one on Ebay with 5spd. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436483669&category=33615
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I though Ca. had a thing were 20 year old cars didn't get stiffed. As for the trans I can't imagine your N/A motor breaking one. It's taken me years to break one ( 5th gear) and that's with a turbo. Either way a 280ZXT T5 will bolt up but they are notchier. Some like it, some don't.
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Stock 7M piston will get the gob done, as will stock head bolts. There isn't an issue with them breaking. MHG is a good idea though even though there are people making power on re torqued stock HG's. I just bought 2 Lexus afms shipped for just under $200. You'll need custom IC piping anyways as this is a Z. Stock MKIII intercooler made over 400rwhp on my L28 so it can't be to bad. Stock down pipe is a little small but works, just cut the dimple out and it's no smaller than the turbo outlet. BOV, stock one works. Upgraded CT-26 60-1 or 60 E trim turbos from PT and others are $475, you can get new T4's for the same $ though. There are many running around and over 400 rwp with upgraded AFM and turbo and 550's, John Lunsford did it with stock 440cc injectors. You don't need to spend alot to make more power. 300 hp is easily attained at 10-12 psi and that is good for a 12 sec 240. 400 rwhp for an extra $1000 isn't unrealistic.
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Is this a, I have a money tree kind of project ? If so I would do the 2JZ first, then the RB26, both with programable. If this is a limited funds deal I would either do the 7mgte with stock EFI(parts cars are cheap) , and later upgrade the turbo or L28 with SDS, T4, and big injectors. The 1JZ is nice but not really much cheaper than the first 2. You still need the wiring and computer. You could get a front clip but then the price goes way up and you could do any of the others for about the same. Fully modded 7M's make about the same as 1JZ's.
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I like the 944 intercooler. For what you probabaly paid you could of picked up a 110v mig and Summit mandrel bends and done it yourself and how you wanted it. I don't let any work on my junk. Not many people care as much as the owner of the car. I wouldn't worry about using radiator hose though, unless you were supposed to get silly cone and he stiffed you. I have never had a rupture on any of the cars/trucks I've turboed using radiator hose. Most radiator caps run up to 15 or so psi, race caps are more. The hose will take an easy 25+ psi. I hope you get him to make it right.
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Wow, never seen a HG blow out the side. I'm running 22 psi on a FP HG with a head that's warped over .025" and it's held up fine. What was the cause.
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It sounds like you were running at the edge if the extra heat made it rattle. If you had knock you should have backed the timing or boost off a little. Sometimes a quick rattle will break a ring land. Are you running P90 pistons? Everything else has thinner ring lands and is substantially weaker. Usaully it's a ring land or the corner of the crown that goes. If it were an HG you would have low psi in 2 conjoining cylinders, not just one. I haven't broke a ring with out stacking the ring lands too. I'd say you have a paper weight. If you are running P90 pistons and need just one I have a partial set.
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I had .100" cut of an E88, no shims either. It pulled hard to 7K. I think the retarded valve timing helped but can't say for sure. As for going "crazy nuts on the cam". You can't go crazy nuts with the lift with stock springs and it's pointless to go real big on a stock head.
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http://www.stormperformance.net/Toyota.htm I'd rather have a JZ than a V8, even an L28 for that mater. I don't care for dated, pushrod, cast iron headed motors that you you to replace every single part on it to make HP. I guess everyone has there idea of what's good though.
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There's may knock when cold but all of the L6's I've had have never knocked when cold and although I should, I rarely ever wait till they are up to full temp before getting into it a little.
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High HP and fuel consumption? You put too much though into the turbo lag. If you are in the power band then you'll have boost, with any motor. Some people expect to make full boost at super low rpms (under 2k) it's just not realistic. vvti might help up top but it's not going to spool it up any quicker. Good luck in the search for one though. You might want to look at some of the MKIII boards as some of the guys are into the 1jz's
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The 1jz's fit in the mkiii's and the mkiii 7M's fit fine in the s30 Z's and there was a 2jz in a Z so I'd say it should fit right in. I would pass on the vvti. One more thing to go wrong. On the 2JZ's it doesn't make any more power either. Check with the importers though. http://www.stormperformance.net/Toyota.htm
I was one of those wacko drivers when I was young. Uh I'm still a wacko. ZX6 when I was 17, CBR600 at 18 and a 240z turbo at 19. Never got anyone killed though
. Money is alot harder to come by when you are young, that's for sure. I don't know how you are going to pull it off. -
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If you want huge power gains the cam, header and TB aren't going to do it. $2k is alot. You could buy a wrecked ZX T for a few hundered, add an intercooler and crank the boost up and still have an easy $1k left to play with.
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That would save alot of time on the swap. Positioning the motor and making mounts for mine took some time. I would of paid $100 to speed things up.
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Those that would want such a head usually get the RB26. Not only does it have the head it has a crank that can take 8K and not shake the crank pulley apart. I don't see why one would spend that kind of money on a custom L head and keep the L block. You could build a couple bad RB motors for the $$$ it will cost for this head.
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I know they currently $115 each with core. I think I paid about that when I got mine but it's been to long to remember.
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You would need a 2 foot long tip to get it out of the high pressure area behind the car. Did you check the tail ligh gaskets the inner hatch cover. Fumes can get it through the lock and enter through that.
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Clifton' date=' have you seen the video?
Jon[/quote']
I friend bought a pair and showed me the video,
unbelievable. A week later I had a pair. D44's are a little better as Toy axles can't turn worth a shit and the gears a smaller and tend to break but the joint is no longer the weak link. -
If it's the joint you are breaking you might want to try talking to Bobby Long http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/. Toyota use Birfields (Toyota talk for CV joint) on the front axles. He welds a ring around the bell end and heat treats the inner cage, aleast doubling the strength. I broke 3 stock ones in less than 6 months and have yet to break one of his in over a year. He is the savior of the Toyota axle in the rock crawling world. I don't know if he would do a couple for other applications but it would be cheaper than swapping out rear suspensions.
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What trim and a/r on the hot side? I know alot of Supra guys run P or Q trims with those.
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http://babel.altavista.com/ Go down and paste the web address, it will translate everything. It works on the second link but doesn't on the first one , don't know why.
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For the throttle I made a tab and welded it to the stock peddle and used the Supra cable. majik, I would love to see how your trans mount is. My motor mounts are transferable but not the trans mount. Did you bolt it through the body?
. Money is alot harder to come by when you are young, that's for sure. I don't know how you are going to pull it off.
unbelievable. A week later I had a pair. D44's are a little better as Toy axles can't turn worth a shit and the gears a smaller and tend to break but the joint is no longer the weak link.
, don't know why.
1JZGTE VVTi conversion
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
2JZ